Post by crashforcash on Dec 21, 2018 12:04:34 GMT -5
2019 CRASH FOR CASH BATTLE AT THE BORDER 3 MAN TEAM SHOW
may 18th, 2019
CAYUGA,IN
2019 CRASH FOR CASH BATTLE AT THE BORDER 3 MAN TEAM SHOW
Any DRIVER under the influence of alcohol or drugs will be DISQUALIFIED AND REMOVED from PREMISES WITH ENTRY FEE FORFEITED. Alcoholic beverages WILL NOT BE ALLOWED ON FAIR GROUNDS OR INFIELD! All vehicles entering the infield will be searched! If you don’t want your vehicle to be searched, don’t park in the infield. Anyone caught with alcohol on the fairgrounds will be removed and no refunds will be made.
Each driver must fill out an entry form at the back gate the day of the derby. Each driver must supply his or her own vehicle and only ONE entry per class per driver.
Drivers must be 16 years or older to enter. Drivers under the age of 18 MUST have a parent or guardian sign a waiver. Driver will receive a pit pass upon registration for the derby on the day of the derby. If vehicle does not pass inspection, the owner will have to pay for a pit pass if he or she wants to remain in the pit area.
Nobody allowed on the track except the drivers, officials and emergency personnel.
NO EXCEPTIONS!
Any driver or crew member disobeying the rules will cause his or her vehicle to be disqualified. Drivers are responsible for the actions of their crew, Crash for cash will not be held responsible for any vehicles or personal property before, during and after the show.
Infield and pit speeds will be enforced. No hot-rodding, donuts, or other unsafe driving will be tolerated. These practices can be grounds for disqualification with entry fee forfeited.
Any altercations between drivers, crew, or officials will be grounds for disqualifications and possibly being barred from future derbies.
If a driver exits their vehicle during a green flag for any reason other than fire or injury he or she will be disqualified.
It is the Driver who qualifies, not the car.
CRASH FOR CASH reserves the right to accept or reject any or all entries.
DECISIONS OF OFFICIALS ARE FINAL!!!!!
GENERAL RULES:
1. THESE RULES ARE A GUIDELINE THAT SPECIFIES WHAT WE WILL ALLOW, IT DOES NOT SPECIFY WHAT WE WILL NOT ALLOW. IF NOT LISTED HERE, CALL BEFORE YOU DO IT. DO NOT COME UP TO US AT THE DERBY AND ASK US TO SHOW YOU IN THE RULES WHERE IT STATES THAT BECAUSE IT DOESN’T NEED TO. CALL FIRST!!!
2. If you’re under 18, you must have a signed consent form from a parent/legal guardian.
3. Due to a Fair ordinance, there is NO ALCOHOL allowed on the fairgrounds. Coolers will be inspected! You WILL forfeit any alcohol found and will lose it! No firearms, knives, or weapons of any kind will be allowed.
4. DOT approved helmet MUST be worn while on the track. Eye Protection is required. Long Sleeve Shirt must be worn.
5. Car must have working seat belts for the driver & must be worn during the heat.
6. An idle zone will be strictly enforced in ALL areas of the pits. Violators will be subject to grounds removal or arrest.
7. If you are using a torch, you must have a fire extinguisher with you.
8. NO gangbanging & NO sandbagging! – If you don’t know what this is, you better ask.
9. Must make contact within 60 seconds if you are having mechanical problems or hung up, otherwise, you must make AGGRESSIVE contact!!! We use our own discretion for this rule. If a driver is really hitting well, he may get more time, if a driver is love tapping, he may get less, so get used to it. Sandbagging is not tolerated and will be strictly enforced. Locking up the brakes prior to a hit for anything other than a driver’s door as a defense will be a cause for disqualification. The fans pay to see a show. Put one on for them!
10. One (1) warning for driver’s door contact, 2nd time you are eliminated! Driver’s door hits are illegal. If the hit is deemed by the official to be careless or intentional, you will be disqualified. If you use your driver’s door as a defense, we will not enforce the rule. If you do it repeatedly, you will be disqualified.
11. One (1) fire is allowed in the engine compartment, second fire you are disqualified. One (1) fire in passenger compartment and you will be disqualified. If a door comes open you are disqualified. You may return in the consolation heat.
12. NO fighting will be tolerated and may result in automatic park ejection and possible arrest!
13. If you are caught cheating, you get NOTHING back, so don’t ask!!!
14. Drivers will be assigned heats as they enter in a predetermined pattern that varies show to show.
15. Please take all scrap with you! All items (including vehicles) left in the park the next day WILL BECOME PROPERTY OF CRASH FOR CASH.
16. Nobody on the track except the drivers, officials, and emergency personnel. NO EXCEPTIONS!
17. ALL drivers must attend the drivers meeting – ANY controversies must be brought up at the drivers meeting or not at all!
18. Cars MUST be painted tastefully! No PROFANITY or OFFENSIVE material allowed on the car, including numbers!!! This is a family show! If you don’t know what this means, call!
19. THE FINAL 5 FEATURE WINNERS MAY BE FULLY INSPECTED AFTER THE SHOW BY THE OFFICIALS! We reserve the right to cut or drill anything in question at anytime. Failure to allow this will result in disqualification.
20. $100 TO PROTEST A CAR. Only other drivers from that particular heat are able to protest a car & the driver MUST have the cash in hand in order to protest. At the time of protest, BOTH the protested car AND the car owned by the protester WILL be re-inspected. The ONLY people that may be present during the re-inspection of the protested car is the inspection crew, the driver of the protested car & the protester. NO other people may be within 50’ of the re-inspection. If the car passes the inspection, the “protested” driver will receive the $100. However, if anything illegal is found, the $100 goes back to the Protester.
21. All drivers' must keep their hands inside the car at all times! If we see you driving with your hand on your door we will stop the race once, next time you're out. We want everyone to leave with all the body parts they came with!
22. All glass, plastic, chrome, wheel weights, and loose debris must be removed from the car. All hitches must be removed. The stock gas tank MUST be removed.
23. No concrete anywhere on the car.
24. Passenger cars or station wagons only. No hearses, checkered cabs, or limousines. Cars may be re-stubbed, but must be ford-ford, Gm-Gm, Chrysler-Chrysler, and must be done in a factory manner. Sedagons will be allowed
25. Front doors should be painted white to help us cut down on door hits. If your door is not white – don’t whine if we don’t see a door hit on your car. Numbers clearly painted with no offensive numbers allowed.
26. Horn must be removed or NOT used during the heat! Subject to disqualification if used.
27. Driver only must bring car to inspection unless pre-approved by head official.
28. SAFETY FIRST: No unsafe practices like protruding all thread, radiator drain hoses pointed at people, and teeth cut into the bumpers, etc. If a bumper or something comes loose during the race and appears to be a safety concern, we reserve the right to act and correct it.
29. The car must have the number on a roof sign on the roof of the car a minimum of 24” tall or we will spray paint the number on the top of the car. No PROFANITY or OFFENSIVE material including numbers allowed on the car!!! This is a family show!
30. ENGINE / TRANSMISSION MUST BE ISOLATED FROM THE PASSENGER COMPARTMENT WITH STEEL, FIRE BLANKET, RUBBER, OR APPROVED FIRE RESISTANT MATERIAL IF FIREWALL / FLOORBOARDS ARE MODIFIED.
31. Once again, OFFICIALS DECISION IS FINAL, so if unsure if you can do something, please call ahead.
32. If putting patches on frame after heats, consult an Official before you put any band-aid on your car before Feature run. Remember, only 6 total repairs. ASK BEFORE YOU DO IT!!
33. We strongly suggest that you have roll over protection for Safety!!!
34. We reserve the right to clear the track during a heat or feature for any reason we deem necessary.
OLD SCHOOL 3MAN TEAM CARS
MUST BE FRESH CAR ANY COMBINATION OF OLD IRON AND NEW IRON
NO IMPERIALS
Below you will find a list of options you have to build a car if you choose to alter the stock configurations. We will enforce these rules very, very strictly and the Head Inspector’s say is final!
Absolutely no: distributor protectors, radiator guards (other than stock A.C. condenser) or tranny protectors.
Frames:
-All cars allowed 2 plates fresh total of 6 for feature
-No seam welding, pinning, filling, stuffing or painting.
-Rust holes may be covered with a 4 x 6 x ¼ inch plate. They will count towards your 6 allowed plates.
– 4 x 6x ¼ inch max.
-No frame shaping other than 12 inches in the center of each hump.
-Only allowed method of pitching is to cold bend.
-You may #9 wire or chain the frame rails together behind the humps. No homemade washers.
Suspension:
-Steering box swaps allowed. No welding on frame, keep mounts minimal.
-Tie rods can be welded up, WITH 1X1 ANGLE CANT GO PAST TUBE
-A-arms and spindles may be changed, but must stay Ford to Ford or GM to GM. No homemade or aftermarket parts with the exception of 98 and newer Ford cars may do the Watts Link conversion with ZTR style brackets. No additional metal may be added other than the brackets themselves.
-Aftermarket steering shafts allowed.
-A-arms may be bolted down with one ½ inch bolt per a-arm. No homemade washers. A 2”x 4”x 1/4” thick strap may be welded vertically from the spring bucket to upper a-arm only, 1 per side.
-Rear trail arms can be shortened or lengthened but not braced. 1 INCH OVERLAP ALLOWED Single hardware washers may be welded around the rear hole of the upper trail arms.
-Rearend may be chained or wired around the frame in one spot per side.
-Factory size, number and stagger will apply to factory leaf spring cars. 5 clamps per side, 2 3/8 inch bolts per clamp. Clamps no wider than 2 inches. No welding of leafs.
Body: may use unlimited #9 wire
Body Mounts:
-Core support mounts may be replaced with up to 1 INCH allthread and ran through the hood.
May be bolted solid or you may use a free-floating spacer. Spacers not to exceed 2x2 inch tubing.
-4 rear body mounts can be bolted solid. 2 of those may have ¾ inch allthread ran vertically through the trunk lid. Wagons may go through the roof or pillars, but if you do that don’t use 2 pieces to hold the tailgate shut.
-Core support and trunk washers may not exceed 4x4 inches.
-Mopars can either go through the frame or be welded to the side. Must be on the flat part of the rear frame under the trunk pan.
-No double nutting or sleeving the allthread.
-Body mounts from firewall to the humps may be changed. Only in factory locations. Only allowable substitution is to use a bolt no bigger than 3/4 inch. Must have rubber bushing with steel sleeve or you may use a hockey puck. Hardware washers only on the mounts from firewall to humps.Hardware washer inside car may not exceed 1 inch
-Body mounts can only go thru top half of frame bolt must be flush an no petrude thru bottom half if we thank you are doing so for advantage you will remove said body mount no exceptions and no extra body mounts
Drivetrain:
-Any motor or transmission in any vehicle.
-Engine cradles are allowed, but must not go past the third spark plug from the front. All your basic Robbo, Big Rock, XXX cradles are allowed.
-If you choose to run a pulley protector you must remove the sway bar between the frame rails.
-Solid lower engine mounts are allowed. If you need to weld plates under your lower mounts because they won’t sit on the engine crossmember that’s fine, but they must not be attached to the frame rails.
-If you choose to chain your engine in, the chains must only be attached to the engine and straight down to engine crossmember.
-Skid plates must be just for the pan they are protecting and can’t extend more than ½ inch from their pan.
-You may run an aluminum ultra or a steel bell on automatics. Manual transmissions may run a blow proof bell housing. No additional bolts or welding permitted.
-If you choose to not run the factory transmission cross member you may use 2”x2” tubing instead. It must mount in factory make and model location. No plates bigger than 4”x4” welded to the frame to weld your cross member to!!!
-If you’re using a bolt on style transmission mount, it must be an O.E.M. rubber mount. If you choose to not run a mount, you may w
rap chain or wire around transmission and cross member
to hold it in place. NO WELDING and only one bolt if you choose the wire or chain route.
-Slider shafts are allowed.
-Any factory car or truck rear end is allowed. No rear ends bigger than a 3500 series pickup permitted and only one wheel per side of rear end. You may weld brackets on the rear end to accommodate the vehicles factory suspension style. Rear end brace cannot go past inside edge of lower trail arm mount or inside edge of leaf spring pad.
Bumper/Bumper Mounting:
-Homemade pointy bumpers must have tapered point that closely resembles Chrysler pointy bumper.
-Bumpers may be plated on the inside and on the backing of the bumper. No sharp edges.
-Any front bumper bracket may be used on any car. If you choose to, you may make your shocks out of 2”x2” tubing.
-Absolutely no bracket or shock may be welded past 6 inches behind the factory core support mount hole on the frame rail. If your cars factory shock or bracket goes farther than 6 inches back, it must
remain completely factory beyond the allotted 6 inches.
-If you choose to hard nose or put your shock inside the frame you MUST have a ¾” hole in the top center of your frame 6 inches behind the factory core support mount hole on the frame rail.
(unless we can clearly see the shock stops where it is supposed to). You may weld a ¾” hardware washer around the hole to make up for the missing metal. Single pass only!
-Suicide Lincolns and cars that have no core support mount must only go 6 inches past the vertical part of core support right above the frame rail when mounting the bumper.
-Rear bumper brackets may be welded, single pass only. Absolutely no rear bracket may be moved forward.
-No add-on metal protruding from axle or wheel assembly past the studs or nuts
Cage:
-4 point cages are allowed. Must be a minimum of 6 inches above the
factory body mount height.
-4 down legs are allowed to the frame, but must only be located in between the front door inner seams.
-Down legs off of the cage that attach to the body must be no further back than the rear spreader and no further forward than the front door inner seam.
-Roll over bars must be vertical and no further back than the rear spreader bar (maximum of 6 inches behind the seat). You will only be allowed to attach bar to roof with 2 bolts no bigger than 1 inch. Washers must not exceed 4”x4”.
-Gas tank protectors are allowed but must remain 10 inches from the rear firewall and no more than 30 inches wide, and in the center of the car. It can be bolted to the floor if NOT attached to the cage.
- No down bars in front of dash
Body:
-Sheet metal may be cut for clearance, but no bending, folding or reattaching anywhere.
-You may use five 3/8” bolts per wheel well opening. Hardware washers only. Absolutely no other bolting of the body other than the bolts allowed in the hood.
-You are allowed 6 2”x”4”x1/4 plates to weld trunk shut. Must be at least a 1” gap between plates. You may weld a 1 inch hardware washer around each hole to keep from tearing.
-Wagons tailgates may have 2 pieces of 3/4 allthread, but the allthread must be through the body only and NOT the frame.
-The only acceptable rust repair on any car is allowed in the driver and passenger area. This is for safety purposes only, and if we think you used this to strengthen the car for anything other than safety purposes you will not be allowed to run.
-Doors may be welded solid with strap no bigger than 4” x 1/8”. Tops of doors may be folded over and welded, but no added metal. Absolutely no other body seam welding besides doors!!
-Hood must be open during inspection.
-You may run double stranded #9 wire from quarter panel to quarter panel in trunk to keep the quarters from blowing apart. Single hardware washers may be welded around the holes.
-No wedged cars allowed in Old School Class.
-Sedagons will be allowed, but call for allowable tucking methods.
-In addition to the 2 pieces of allthread in the core support, you will be allowed 4 more bolts to hold the hood down. Must be body to body only and the washers must not exceed 4”x4”. Or you may use #9 wire
-No more than ten 3/8” bolts to hold your outer hood skin to your inner hood skin.
-Body creasing is allowed, but absolutely no bolting or welding to assist.
The car must have the number on a roof sign on the roof of the truck a minimum of 24” tall or we will spray paint the number on the top of the car.
We strongly suggest that you have roll over protection for Safety
********COMPACT/MIDSIZE CLASS********
(30 SPOT HEAT) RWD CARS 106' MAX FWD 110' MAX NO FULL FRAME
-All compact and mid-size vehicles will follow the same safety rules and regulations listed in the general
rule section.
-105” wheel base and smaller will be in the compact class. 105 1/16th” wheelbase and bigger will be in
the mid-size class. NO EXCEPTIONS!!!
-Minivans will be allowed to participate in the mid-size class. No full framed vehicles in either class.
-No mini trucks or V8 engines allowed in compact or mid-size class.
Below you will find the list of options you have to build a car, if you choose to alter the stock
configurations. We absolutely will not work with a driver to get a car into the show. Do not read these
rules trying to find grey areas and do not read between the lines because you are only setting yourself
up to be pissed. We will enforce these rules very, very strictly and the Head Inspector’s say is final!
-Absolutely no engine/trans protectors, radiator protectors (other than a stock A.C. condenser, or any
other homemade parts to make a vehicle stronger. You will be allowed a gas tank protector but it must
not touch the firewall and no wider than 30 inches. If running a minivan your gas tank and/or gas tank
protector may be no farther than 36” from the rear spreader bar at any point.
-All suspension must be factory make/model for the vehicle.
-4 point cage is strongly recommended. You may run 4 downlegs to the body or the frame but these
must remain in between the front door inner seams.
-You may replace the core support mounts with ¾” althread and run them up through the hood. No
sleeving is allowed. If your vehicle doesn’t have mounts, the althread must be welded to the backside of
the core support. You may also run 2 pieces of ¾” althread through the trunk lid. They may be welded to
the side of the frame. They must be placed on the flat part of the trunk pan and ran vertical.
-Doors and trunk lid may be welded solid with 4”x1/8” strap. No stacking or overlapping. Must have a
12” inspection hole in trunk lid!!! If you choose not to weld trunk you may use 8 double stranded spots
of #9 wire but must be body to body only. Hoods may have 8 spots of double stranded 9 wire. 1”
hardware washers may be welded around the holes for the wire to pass through.
-Five 3/8” bolts with hardware washers only per wheel well.
-No more than ten 3/8” bolts to bolt the outer hood skin to the inner hood skin.
-Any O.E.M. bumper may be used and it may be loaded on the inside if you choose.
-Homemade bumper brackets are allowed but no bigger than 2”x2” tubing. You may not weld or bolt
past 6” behind the factory core support mount hole. If your vehicle doesn’t have a core support mount
we will measure from the vertical part of core support directly above the frame rail. We don’t want
bumpers falling off!!
-Absolutely no welding besides what is stated in the rules.
-The only acceptable rust repair is for your feet, seat, gas tank, tranny cooler and battery box. Don’t get
carried away or you won’t run!!
-Pre-rans will be allowed 4 plates on visible bends, 4”x6”x1/4” max size.
-All factory frame and body seams can be welded solid. Single pass and no added metal.*
-Front suspensions may be locked. If you need to weld strap to your frame in order to do so, keep it
minimal. If we feel you are using it to strengthen your frame you will need to cut it in order to run.
-In addition to the 2 pieces of althread in the core support you will be allowed 4 more bolts to hold the
hood down. Must be body to body only and the washers must not exceed 4”x4”. Or you may use double
stranded #9 wire in 8 spots. It must be body to body only.
-You may also run double stranded #9 wire from the front bumper to the hood or core support in 4
places only.
80's & Newer Bone Stock Rules
All cars must be 1980 or newer and passenger car or station wagon to compete.
General Rules
-Remove all glass, mirrors, carpet, and plastic. Remove all decking on station wagons.
-Vehicles must be swept clean of all debris.
-All cars must have working brakes.
-Battery must be mounted securely in the drivers compartment, no bungy straps. Only 1 car type battery allowed. Battery box size is limited to a max of 18"x12" and can be welded to the cage or bolted securely to the passenger side floor pan. No bolts may be attached to the frame. Floor sheet metal only. It must be on the flat part of the floor pan only and not running up the firewall. You have to have a cover over the battery.
-Fuel tanks must be securely mounted behind the driver or passenger seat area. You can use a fuel cell or boat tank. Plastic tanks are not recommended, but if you choose to use one it needs to be mounted in a steel containment box and away from the doors and rear firewall. Once again, securely mounted. Using bungy straps over the top of them will not work.
-You may run an electric fuel pump, but must wired to a kill switch and clearly marked.
-Fuel lines must run through the car and not underneath. Keep all fuel lines away from headers or pinch points on the firewall that could cut the line.
-You must have a working seatbelt.
-If you're not running headers through the hood, you need to have at least 8" hole cut in the hood above or around the carbeurater in case of a fire.
-For inspection you need to bring your hoods with your car, and be able to open them. If running a trunk lid it needs to be open at inspection.
-Absolutely no hammering or creasing of the body allowed. No pre-bending of any kind. Station wagons may not be tucked or sedagoned at any time, even pre-ran.
-Anything may be removed from the car, but nothing can be added unless stated in the rules.
-If you have floor pans that are rusted out, you may patch them using sheet metal only. Rust must be visible and 1" overlap around the rust. No other rust patching allowed.
-You may run aftermarket gas/brake/clutch pedal setups. They can be mounted to the cage or drivers floorboard. However, if they bolt to the floor it cannot be slanted up towards the firewall and the max size is 14" wide by 21" long. Can only be mounted to the floor sheet metal. Pedals cannot be attached to the cage and the floor. One or the other.
Doors
-All doors must must wired, chained, or welded shut.
-Front doors may be welded using up to 2"x1/8" strap. You may weld up to 12" on each front door vertical seems only. It may be one continuous weld, or broken up, but only 12" per seem on front doors only.
-The back door vertical seem may be welded up to 6" using up to 2"X1/8" strap. It may also be continuous or broken up, but only 6".
-Note, the doors may not be welded all the way around, only vertical seem.
-You cannot weld the inner and outer skin together.
-If you choose not to weld the door, they must wired or chained in at least 4 spots per door.
Cage
-A back spreader bar behind the drivers seat, running side to side is manditory, but a full cage is recommended.
-You may have a standard 4 pt. cage with 4 downlegs to the sheetmetal. All horizontal cage components must be at least 8" above frame level. You may have one bar running side to side in place of the dash and one running side to side no more than 6" behind the front seat, and the front seat must be bolted in the factory location. You may have a driver and passenger side door bar connecting the front and back bar. The side bars may not be any further back than 8" behind the front seat. You may have up to 4 downlegs running to the floor sheetmetal only, not to the frame. Front downlegs may be no further forward than the front door inner door seem, and the back downlegs may be no further back than your back spreader bar.
-You may have one rollover bar that runs straight and over. It can run under or above the the roof of the car, and attach to your side or back bar. No angling of the rollover bar, it must be straight up and down.
-A small gas tank protector will be allowed off of your back spreader bar. It is to be no wider than 24" and must be a minumum of 10" away from the doors. It must be a minumum of 4" away from rear firewall. This must attach to the back spreader bar only and nothing else.
Body Mounts
-All body mounts be completely stock and untouched except for the the front core support mount. If you have a rusted or broken body bolt, you may double wrap 9 wire around the frame and floor at that location only. No body bolts may be added.
-To help keep the body attached to the frame in the rear of the car you may run #9 wire from the rear taillight panel around the frame or back bumper. You may have 4 spots doublewrapped.
-The front two core support mounts may be replaced with up to 3/4" allthread. This may run thru the frame and up thru the hood. You may use up to a 4" tall spacer between the bottom of core support and the frame, no bigger than 2"x2" square or 2" round tubing. This may not be welded to the frame or core support, and must start on top of the frame and stop at the bottom of the core support. Max washer size is limited to 4"x4"X1/4", and may not be double nutted anywhere.
Trunks
-Trunk lids must remain on the hinges or must be completely removed. You may tuck the trunk lid using one 90 degree bend: It must be completely stock, outside of that.
-Trunk lids can be #9 wired to the quarter panels, and/or speaker tray in up to 6 spots. You can use up to 2 loops of wire in these locations. Note: this needs to be done after inspection, and this is the only way you can attach your trunk lid.
-You may run 2 loops of #9 wire from quarter panel to quarter panel.
Hood/Cowl
-Outside of your 2 allthreads at the core support mount, you can #9 wire your hood down in up to 4 spots with 2 loops of wire. It can attach to the front bumper if you choose to.
-For safety you must have at least 9 wire or a chain ran from the roof to the top of the cowl in the windshield opening. You may ran up to two 2"x1/4" metal straps if you prefer.
Drivetrain
-You can use the engine and transmission of your choice. However, engine cradles, distributer protectors, header and carb protectors, pulley protectors, and trans braces are not allowed. No protectors of any kind. Engines must use factory style engine mounts and nothing aftermarket or homemade. Engines must mount within 4" factory location. The mounting pad may be welded to the frames ends carriage.
-You may use an aftermarket steel bellhousing for safety purposes, but no other bracing is allowed and no aftermarket tailshafts. Transmission must use a factory mount, or can be 9 wired to the crossmember.
-Floor shifter or cable shifter is allowed.
-Rearend swaps are not allowed. You cannot have any bracing on the rearend what so ever. Keep it all stock. You may lock the rearend by welding the spider gears, or using a spool. You can run whatever gear you'd like.
-Slider driveshafts are not permitted.
-You can run headers through the hood.
-Transmission and oil coolers are allowed, but be securely mounted and use high pressure lines.
-One factory car type radiator located in factory location. Aftermarket aluminum radiators are fine. You may use an electric fan. No extra engine cooling devices. If using a normal clutch type fan, your hood must cover it.
-Radiators can be mounted how they came from the factory, or you may #9 wire them or ratchet strap them to the core support. The only thing allowed in front of the radiator is one ac condesor.
Steering/Suspension
-Steering swaps are not allowed. All steering components must be the stock OEM parts for the car you are running. If parts need replaced go to the parts store and get the factory replacement part. Factory steering columns must be used, but you may alter the lower shaft (firewall to box) to help aid in losing steering. However, the box must be stock for that car. Tie rods cannot be reinforced in any way.
-You cannot lock your suspension solid. No welding on the a arms, or bolting them down, and no allthread shocks. You may change coil springs to help gain height.
-If you have a leafspring car, factory leafpacks, shackles, and clamps must me used.
-No coil to leafspring conversions.
-You may not chain rearends in. You can 9 wire springs to the rearend and to the package tray the spring sits in. Leaf spring cars may loops of 9 wire from the rearend to the body/unibody.
Bumpers/Frame
-Any passenger car bumper may be used for the front and back bumper. All bumper seems may be welded and the chrome skin may be beat flat and welded to the backing. Front bumpers only may be loaded on the inside of the bumper only. The chrome skin and backing of the bumper must appear factory from the outside. You may use up to a 6"x6" mounting plate if you'd like. Back bumper can be swapped, but may not be reinforced.
-When mounting front bumpers you may do one of 3 ways. Choose only 1.X
1. Use the factory shock. You can collapse the shock and weld the shock all the way around. Weld the shock to the frame and the bumper to the shock. No welding of the shock beyond 6" behind the factory core support mount. It must be left factory behind that point. You may weld a 2"X1/4" strap from the bumper to the frame, also 6" behind the core support mount to help hold the bumper on.
2. Do away with the factory shock and use up to a 2"x2" piece of square tubing inside the frame, or welded to the outside. It can be no further back than 6" behind the core support mount. No strap may be used if using this method.
3. Weld the bumper straight to the frame and use a 2"x1/4" strap welded to the bumper and on one side of the frame no further than 6" behind the factory core support mount.
-Note, you may trim the front frame down to square it up to make it easier to weld the bumper to it. However, the core mount and mounting bracket must stay in the factory location.
-The back bumper mounts and shocks must be used and not altered or welded on in any way. You may weld a piece of 2"X1/4" strap from the bumper to the frame, no more than 4" on the frame to help hold it on.
-The factory transmision crossmember must be used. You may use of to a 4"x4"x1/4" piece of angle iron welded to the frame to bolt or weld the crossmember to.
-You may notch/dimple rear frame rails.
-Absolutely no other welding may be done on the frame other than the bumper, engine mount, and crossmember mount. No seam welding.
-No frame shaping, pitching or cold tilting allowed.
-Pre-ran cars may use two 4"x4"x1/4" band-aid plates on a bent or broken frame. If there's more than two bend too bad.
-No rust patching on the frames.
Wheels/Tires
-No split rim, no beadlocks, and no protruding objects on rims.
-No studded tires
-Any tire & rim combination can be used other that.
HEAD INSPECTOR IS ALAN DOAN 765-505-9402 CALL WITH ANY QUESTIONS.
Read more: we-crash.proboards.com/thread/70019/2019-battle-boarder-team-cayuga#ixzz5aL34Uk4i
may 18th, 2019
CAYUGA,IN
2019 CRASH FOR CASH BATTLE AT THE BORDER 3 MAN TEAM SHOW
Any DRIVER under the influence of alcohol or drugs will be DISQUALIFIED AND REMOVED from PREMISES WITH ENTRY FEE FORFEITED. Alcoholic beverages WILL NOT BE ALLOWED ON FAIR GROUNDS OR INFIELD! All vehicles entering the infield will be searched! If you don’t want your vehicle to be searched, don’t park in the infield. Anyone caught with alcohol on the fairgrounds will be removed and no refunds will be made.
Each driver must fill out an entry form at the back gate the day of the derby. Each driver must supply his or her own vehicle and only ONE entry per class per driver.
Drivers must be 16 years or older to enter. Drivers under the age of 18 MUST have a parent or guardian sign a waiver. Driver will receive a pit pass upon registration for the derby on the day of the derby. If vehicle does not pass inspection, the owner will have to pay for a pit pass if he or she wants to remain in the pit area.
Nobody allowed on the track except the drivers, officials and emergency personnel.
NO EXCEPTIONS!
Any driver or crew member disobeying the rules will cause his or her vehicle to be disqualified. Drivers are responsible for the actions of their crew, Crash for cash will not be held responsible for any vehicles or personal property before, during and after the show.
Infield and pit speeds will be enforced. No hot-rodding, donuts, or other unsafe driving will be tolerated. These practices can be grounds for disqualification with entry fee forfeited.
Any altercations between drivers, crew, or officials will be grounds for disqualifications and possibly being barred from future derbies.
If a driver exits their vehicle during a green flag for any reason other than fire or injury he or she will be disqualified.
It is the Driver who qualifies, not the car.
CRASH FOR CASH reserves the right to accept or reject any or all entries.
DECISIONS OF OFFICIALS ARE FINAL!!!!!
GENERAL RULES:
1. THESE RULES ARE A GUIDELINE THAT SPECIFIES WHAT WE WILL ALLOW, IT DOES NOT SPECIFY WHAT WE WILL NOT ALLOW. IF NOT LISTED HERE, CALL BEFORE YOU DO IT. DO NOT COME UP TO US AT THE DERBY AND ASK US TO SHOW YOU IN THE RULES WHERE IT STATES THAT BECAUSE IT DOESN’T NEED TO. CALL FIRST!!!
2. If you’re under 18, you must have a signed consent form from a parent/legal guardian.
3. Due to a Fair ordinance, there is NO ALCOHOL allowed on the fairgrounds. Coolers will be inspected! You WILL forfeit any alcohol found and will lose it! No firearms, knives, or weapons of any kind will be allowed.
4. DOT approved helmet MUST be worn while on the track. Eye Protection is required. Long Sleeve Shirt must be worn.
5. Car must have working seat belts for the driver & must be worn during the heat.
6. An idle zone will be strictly enforced in ALL areas of the pits. Violators will be subject to grounds removal or arrest.
7. If you are using a torch, you must have a fire extinguisher with you.
8. NO gangbanging & NO sandbagging! – If you don’t know what this is, you better ask.
9. Must make contact within 60 seconds if you are having mechanical problems or hung up, otherwise, you must make AGGRESSIVE contact!!! We use our own discretion for this rule. If a driver is really hitting well, he may get more time, if a driver is love tapping, he may get less, so get used to it. Sandbagging is not tolerated and will be strictly enforced. Locking up the brakes prior to a hit for anything other than a driver’s door as a defense will be a cause for disqualification. The fans pay to see a show. Put one on for them!
10. One (1) warning for driver’s door contact, 2nd time you are eliminated! Driver’s door hits are illegal. If the hit is deemed by the official to be careless or intentional, you will be disqualified. If you use your driver’s door as a defense, we will not enforce the rule. If you do it repeatedly, you will be disqualified.
11. One (1) fire is allowed in the engine compartment, second fire you are disqualified. One (1) fire in passenger compartment and you will be disqualified. If a door comes open you are disqualified. You may return in the consolation heat.
12. NO fighting will be tolerated and may result in automatic park ejection and possible arrest!
13. If you are caught cheating, you get NOTHING back, so don’t ask!!!
14. Drivers will be assigned heats as they enter in a predetermined pattern that varies show to show.
15. Please take all scrap with you! All items (including vehicles) left in the park the next day WILL BECOME PROPERTY OF CRASH FOR CASH.
16. Nobody on the track except the drivers, officials, and emergency personnel. NO EXCEPTIONS!
17. ALL drivers must attend the drivers meeting – ANY controversies must be brought up at the drivers meeting or not at all!
18. Cars MUST be painted tastefully! No PROFANITY or OFFENSIVE material allowed on the car, including numbers!!! This is a family show! If you don’t know what this means, call!
19. THE FINAL 5 FEATURE WINNERS MAY BE FULLY INSPECTED AFTER THE SHOW BY THE OFFICIALS! We reserve the right to cut or drill anything in question at anytime. Failure to allow this will result in disqualification.
20. $100 TO PROTEST A CAR. Only other drivers from that particular heat are able to protest a car & the driver MUST have the cash in hand in order to protest. At the time of protest, BOTH the protested car AND the car owned by the protester WILL be re-inspected. The ONLY people that may be present during the re-inspection of the protested car is the inspection crew, the driver of the protested car & the protester. NO other people may be within 50’ of the re-inspection. If the car passes the inspection, the “protested” driver will receive the $100. However, if anything illegal is found, the $100 goes back to the Protester.
21. All drivers' must keep their hands inside the car at all times! If we see you driving with your hand on your door we will stop the race once, next time you're out. We want everyone to leave with all the body parts they came with!
22. All glass, plastic, chrome, wheel weights, and loose debris must be removed from the car. All hitches must be removed. The stock gas tank MUST be removed.
23. No concrete anywhere on the car.
24. Passenger cars or station wagons only. No hearses, checkered cabs, or limousines. Cars may be re-stubbed, but must be ford-ford, Gm-Gm, Chrysler-Chrysler, and must be done in a factory manner. Sedagons will be allowed
25. Front doors should be painted white to help us cut down on door hits. If your door is not white – don’t whine if we don’t see a door hit on your car. Numbers clearly painted with no offensive numbers allowed.
26. Horn must be removed or NOT used during the heat! Subject to disqualification if used.
27. Driver only must bring car to inspection unless pre-approved by head official.
28. SAFETY FIRST: No unsafe practices like protruding all thread, radiator drain hoses pointed at people, and teeth cut into the bumpers, etc. If a bumper or something comes loose during the race and appears to be a safety concern, we reserve the right to act and correct it.
29. The car must have the number on a roof sign on the roof of the car a minimum of 24” tall or we will spray paint the number on the top of the car. No PROFANITY or OFFENSIVE material including numbers allowed on the car!!! This is a family show!
30. ENGINE / TRANSMISSION MUST BE ISOLATED FROM THE PASSENGER COMPARTMENT WITH STEEL, FIRE BLANKET, RUBBER, OR APPROVED FIRE RESISTANT MATERIAL IF FIREWALL / FLOORBOARDS ARE MODIFIED.
31. Once again, OFFICIALS DECISION IS FINAL, so if unsure if you can do something, please call ahead.
32. If putting patches on frame after heats, consult an Official before you put any band-aid on your car before Feature run. Remember, only 6 total repairs. ASK BEFORE YOU DO IT!!
33. We strongly suggest that you have roll over protection for Safety!!!
34. We reserve the right to clear the track during a heat or feature for any reason we deem necessary.
OLD SCHOOL 3MAN TEAM CARS
MUST BE FRESH CAR ANY COMBINATION OF OLD IRON AND NEW IRON
NO IMPERIALS
Below you will find a list of options you have to build a car if you choose to alter the stock configurations. We will enforce these rules very, very strictly and the Head Inspector’s say is final!
Absolutely no: distributor protectors, radiator guards (other than stock A.C. condenser) or tranny protectors.
Frames:
-All cars allowed 2 plates fresh total of 6 for feature
-No seam welding, pinning, filling, stuffing or painting.
-Rust holes may be covered with a 4 x 6 x ¼ inch plate. They will count towards your 6 allowed plates.
– 4 x 6x ¼ inch max.
-No frame shaping other than 12 inches in the center of each hump.
-Only allowed method of pitching is to cold bend.
-You may #9 wire or chain the frame rails together behind the humps. No homemade washers.
Suspension:
-Steering box swaps allowed. No welding on frame, keep mounts minimal.
-Tie rods can be welded up, WITH 1X1 ANGLE CANT GO PAST TUBE
-A-arms and spindles may be changed, but must stay Ford to Ford or GM to GM. No homemade or aftermarket parts with the exception of 98 and newer Ford cars may do the Watts Link conversion with ZTR style brackets. No additional metal may be added other than the brackets themselves.
-Aftermarket steering shafts allowed.
-A-arms may be bolted down with one ½ inch bolt per a-arm. No homemade washers. A 2”x 4”x 1/4” thick strap may be welded vertically from the spring bucket to upper a-arm only, 1 per side.
-Rear trail arms can be shortened or lengthened but not braced. 1 INCH OVERLAP ALLOWED Single hardware washers may be welded around the rear hole of the upper trail arms.
-Rearend may be chained or wired around the frame in one spot per side.
-Factory size, number and stagger will apply to factory leaf spring cars. 5 clamps per side, 2 3/8 inch bolts per clamp. Clamps no wider than 2 inches. No welding of leafs.
Body: may use unlimited #9 wire
Body Mounts:
-Core support mounts may be replaced with up to 1 INCH allthread and ran through the hood.
May be bolted solid or you may use a free-floating spacer. Spacers not to exceed 2x2 inch tubing.
-4 rear body mounts can be bolted solid. 2 of those may have ¾ inch allthread ran vertically through the trunk lid. Wagons may go through the roof or pillars, but if you do that don’t use 2 pieces to hold the tailgate shut.
-Core support and trunk washers may not exceed 4x4 inches.
-Mopars can either go through the frame or be welded to the side. Must be on the flat part of the rear frame under the trunk pan.
-No double nutting or sleeving the allthread.
-Body mounts from firewall to the humps may be changed. Only in factory locations. Only allowable substitution is to use a bolt no bigger than 3/4 inch. Must have rubber bushing with steel sleeve or you may use a hockey puck. Hardware washers only on the mounts from firewall to humps.Hardware washer inside car may not exceed 1 inch
-Body mounts can only go thru top half of frame bolt must be flush an no petrude thru bottom half if we thank you are doing so for advantage you will remove said body mount no exceptions and no extra body mounts
Drivetrain:
-Any motor or transmission in any vehicle.
-Engine cradles are allowed, but must not go past the third spark plug from the front. All your basic Robbo, Big Rock, XXX cradles are allowed.
-If you choose to run a pulley protector you must remove the sway bar between the frame rails.
-Solid lower engine mounts are allowed. If you need to weld plates under your lower mounts because they won’t sit on the engine crossmember that’s fine, but they must not be attached to the frame rails.
-If you choose to chain your engine in, the chains must only be attached to the engine and straight down to engine crossmember.
-Skid plates must be just for the pan they are protecting and can’t extend more than ½ inch from their pan.
-You may run an aluminum ultra or a steel bell on automatics. Manual transmissions may run a blow proof bell housing. No additional bolts or welding permitted.
-If you choose to not run the factory transmission cross member you may use 2”x2” tubing instead. It must mount in factory make and model location. No plates bigger than 4”x4” welded to the frame to weld your cross member to!!!
-If you’re using a bolt on style transmission mount, it must be an O.E.M. rubber mount. If you choose to not run a mount, you may w
rap chain or wire around transmission and cross member
to hold it in place. NO WELDING and only one bolt if you choose the wire or chain route.
-Slider shafts are allowed.
-Any factory car or truck rear end is allowed. No rear ends bigger than a 3500 series pickup permitted and only one wheel per side of rear end. You may weld brackets on the rear end to accommodate the vehicles factory suspension style. Rear end brace cannot go past inside edge of lower trail arm mount or inside edge of leaf spring pad.
Bumper/Bumper Mounting:
-Homemade pointy bumpers must have tapered point that closely resembles Chrysler pointy bumper.
-Bumpers may be plated on the inside and on the backing of the bumper. No sharp edges.
-Any front bumper bracket may be used on any car. If you choose to, you may make your shocks out of 2”x2” tubing.
-Absolutely no bracket or shock may be welded past 6 inches behind the factory core support mount hole on the frame rail. If your cars factory shock or bracket goes farther than 6 inches back, it must
remain completely factory beyond the allotted 6 inches.
-If you choose to hard nose or put your shock inside the frame you MUST have a ¾” hole in the top center of your frame 6 inches behind the factory core support mount hole on the frame rail.
(unless we can clearly see the shock stops where it is supposed to). You may weld a ¾” hardware washer around the hole to make up for the missing metal. Single pass only!
-Suicide Lincolns and cars that have no core support mount must only go 6 inches past the vertical part of core support right above the frame rail when mounting the bumper.
-Rear bumper brackets may be welded, single pass only. Absolutely no rear bracket may be moved forward.
-No add-on metal protruding from axle or wheel assembly past the studs or nuts
Cage:
-4 point cages are allowed. Must be a minimum of 6 inches above the
factory body mount height.
-4 down legs are allowed to the frame, but must only be located in between the front door inner seams.
-Down legs off of the cage that attach to the body must be no further back than the rear spreader and no further forward than the front door inner seam.
-Roll over bars must be vertical and no further back than the rear spreader bar (maximum of 6 inches behind the seat). You will only be allowed to attach bar to roof with 2 bolts no bigger than 1 inch. Washers must not exceed 4”x4”.
-Gas tank protectors are allowed but must remain 10 inches from the rear firewall and no more than 30 inches wide, and in the center of the car. It can be bolted to the floor if NOT attached to the cage.
- No down bars in front of dash
Body:
-Sheet metal may be cut for clearance, but no bending, folding or reattaching anywhere.
-You may use five 3/8” bolts per wheel well opening. Hardware washers only. Absolutely no other bolting of the body other than the bolts allowed in the hood.
-You are allowed 6 2”x”4”x1/4 plates to weld trunk shut. Must be at least a 1” gap between plates. You may weld a 1 inch hardware washer around each hole to keep from tearing.
-Wagons tailgates may have 2 pieces of 3/4 allthread, but the allthread must be through the body only and NOT the frame.
-The only acceptable rust repair on any car is allowed in the driver and passenger area. This is for safety purposes only, and if we think you used this to strengthen the car for anything other than safety purposes you will not be allowed to run.
-Doors may be welded solid with strap no bigger than 4” x 1/8”. Tops of doors may be folded over and welded, but no added metal. Absolutely no other body seam welding besides doors!!
-Hood must be open during inspection.
-You may run double stranded #9 wire from quarter panel to quarter panel in trunk to keep the quarters from blowing apart. Single hardware washers may be welded around the holes.
-No wedged cars allowed in Old School Class.
-Sedagons will be allowed, but call for allowable tucking methods.
-In addition to the 2 pieces of allthread in the core support, you will be allowed 4 more bolts to hold the hood down. Must be body to body only and the washers must not exceed 4”x4”. Or you may use #9 wire
-No more than ten 3/8” bolts to hold your outer hood skin to your inner hood skin.
-Body creasing is allowed, but absolutely no bolting or welding to assist.
The car must have the number on a roof sign on the roof of the truck a minimum of 24” tall or we will spray paint the number on the top of the car.
We strongly suggest that you have roll over protection for Safety
********COMPACT/MIDSIZE CLASS********
(30 SPOT HEAT) RWD CARS 106' MAX FWD 110' MAX NO FULL FRAME
-All compact and mid-size vehicles will follow the same safety rules and regulations listed in the general
rule section.
-105” wheel base and smaller will be in the compact class. 105 1/16th” wheelbase and bigger will be in
the mid-size class. NO EXCEPTIONS!!!
-Minivans will be allowed to participate in the mid-size class. No full framed vehicles in either class.
-No mini trucks or V8 engines allowed in compact or mid-size class.
Below you will find the list of options you have to build a car, if you choose to alter the stock
configurations. We absolutely will not work with a driver to get a car into the show. Do not read these
rules trying to find grey areas and do not read between the lines because you are only setting yourself
up to be pissed. We will enforce these rules very, very strictly and the Head Inspector’s say is final!
-Absolutely no engine/trans protectors, radiator protectors (other than a stock A.C. condenser, or any
other homemade parts to make a vehicle stronger. You will be allowed a gas tank protector but it must
not touch the firewall and no wider than 30 inches. If running a minivan your gas tank and/or gas tank
protector may be no farther than 36” from the rear spreader bar at any point.
-All suspension must be factory make/model for the vehicle.
-4 point cage is strongly recommended. You may run 4 downlegs to the body or the frame but these
must remain in between the front door inner seams.
-You may replace the core support mounts with ¾” althread and run them up through the hood. No
sleeving is allowed. If your vehicle doesn’t have mounts, the althread must be welded to the backside of
the core support. You may also run 2 pieces of ¾” althread through the trunk lid. They may be welded to
the side of the frame. They must be placed on the flat part of the trunk pan and ran vertical.
-Doors and trunk lid may be welded solid with 4”x1/8” strap. No stacking or overlapping. Must have a
12” inspection hole in trunk lid!!! If you choose not to weld trunk you may use 8 double stranded spots
of #9 wire but must be body to body only. Hoods may have 8 spots of double stranded 9 wire. 1”
hardware washers may be welded around the holes for the wire to pass through.
-Five 3/8” bolts with hardware washers only per wheel well.
-No more than ten 3/8” bolts to bolt the outer hood skin to the inner hood skin.
-Any O.E.M. bumper may be used and it may be loaded on the inside if you choose.
-Homemade bumper brackets are allowed but no bigger than 2”x2” tubing. You may not weld or bolt
past 6” behind the factory core support mount hole. If your vehicle doesn’t have a core support mount
we will measure from the vertical part of core support directly above the frame rail. We don’t want
bumpers falling off!!
-Absolutely no welding besides what is stated in the rules.
-The only acceptable rust repair is for your feet, seat, gas tank, tranny cooler and battery box. Don’t get
carried away or you won’t run!!
-Pre-rans will be allowed 4 plates on visible bends, 4”x6”x1/4” max size.
-All factory frame and body seams can be welded solid. Single pass and no added metal.*
-Front suspensions may be locked. If you need to weld strap to your frame in order to do so, keep it
minimal. If we feel you are using it to strengthen your frame you will need to cut it in order to run.
-In addition to the 2 pieces of althread in the core support you will be allowed 4 more bolts to hold the
hood down. Must be body to body only and the washers must not exceed 4”x4”. Or you may use double
stranded #9 wire in 8 spots. It must be body to body only.
-You may also run double stranded #9 wire from the front bumper to the hood or core support in 4
places only.
80's & Newer Bone Stock Rules
All cars must be 1980 or newer and passenger car or station wagon to compete.
General Rules
-Remove all glass, mirrors, carpet, and plastic. Remove all decking on station wagons.
-Vehicles must be swept clean of all debris.
-All cars must have working brakes.
-Battery must be mounted securely in the drivers compartment, no bungy straps. Only 1 car type battery allowed. Battery box size is limited to a max of 18"x12" and can be welded to the cage or bolted securely to the passenger side floor pan. No bolts may be attached to the frame. Floor sheet metal only. It must be on the flat part of the floor pan only and not running up the firewall. You have to have a cover over the battery.
-Fuel tanks must be securely mounted behind the driver or passenger seat area. You can use a fuel cell or boat tank. Plastic tanks are not recommended, but if you choose to use one it needs to be mounted in a steel containment box and away from the doors and rear firewall. Once again, securely mounted. Using bungy straps over the top of them will not work.
-You may run an electric fuel pump, but must wired to a kill switch and clearly marked.
-Fuel lines must run through the car and not underneath. Keep all fuel lines away from headers or pinch points on the firewall that could cut the line.
-You must have a working seatbelt.
-If you're not running headers through the hood, you need to have at least 8" hole cut in the hood above or around the carbeurater in case of a fire.
-For inspection you need to bring your hoods with your car, and be able to open them. If running a trunk lid it needs to be open at inspection.
-Absolutely no hammering or creasing of the body allowed. No pre-bending of any kind. Station wagons may not be tucked or sedagoned at any time, even pre-ran.
-Anything may be removed from the car, but nothing can be added unless stated in the rules.
-If you have floor pans that are rusted out, you may patch them using sheet metal only. Rust must be visible and 1" overlap around the rust. No other rust patching allowed.
-You may run aftermarket gas/brake/clutch pedal setups. They can be mounted to the cage or drivers floorboard. However, if they bolt to the floor it cannot be slanted up towards the firewall and the max size is 14" wide by 21" long. Can only be mounted to the floor sheet metal. Pedals cannot be attached to the cage and the floor. One or the other.
Doors
-All doors must must wired, chained, or welded shut.
-Front doors may be welded using up to 2"x1/8" strap. You may weld up to 12" on each front door vertical seems only. It may be one continuous weld, or broken up, but only 12" per seem on front doors only.
-The back door vertical seem may be welded up to 6" using up to 2"X1/8" strap. It may also be continuous or broken up, but only 6".
-Note, the doors may not be welded all the way around, only vertical seem.
-You cannot weld the inner and outer skin together.
-If you choose not to weld the door, they must wired or chained in at least 4 spots per door.
Cage
-A back spreader bar behind the drivers seat, running side to side is manditory, but a full cage is recommended.
-You may have a standard 4 pt. cage with 4 downlegs to the sheetmetal. All horizontal cage components must be at least 8" above frame level. You may have one bar running side to side in place of the dash and one running side to side no more than 6" behind the front seat, and the front seat must be bolted in the factory location. You may have a driver and passenger side door bar connecting the front and back bar. The side bars may not be any further back than 8" behind the front seat. You may have up to 4 downlegs running to the floor sheetmetal only, not to the frame. Front downlegs may be no further forward than the front door inner door seem, and the back downlegs may be no further back than your back spreader bar.
-You may have one rollover bar that runs straight and over. It can run under or above the the roof of the car, and attach to your side or back bar. No angling of the rollover bar, it must be straight up and down.
-A small gas tank protector will be allowed off of your back spreader bar. It is to be no wider than 24" and must be a minumum of 10" away from the doors. It must be a minumum of 4" away from rear firewall. This must attach to the back spreader bar only and nothing else.
Body Mounts
-All body mounts be completely stock and untouched except for the the front core support mount. If you have a rusted or broken body bolt, you may double wrap 9 wire around the frame and floor at that location only. No body bolts may be added.
-To help keep the body attached to the frame in the rear of the car you may run #9 wire from the rear taillight panel around the frame or back bumper. You may have 4 spots doublewrapped.
-The front two core support mounts may be replaced with up to 3/4" allthread. This may run thru the frame and up thru the hood. You may use up to a 4" tall spacer between the bottom of core support and the frame, no bigger than 2"x2" square or 2" round tubing. This may not be welded to the frame or core support, and must start on top of the frame and stop at the bottom of the core support. Max washer size is limited to 4"x4"X1/4", and may not be double nutted anywhere.
Trunks
-Trunk lids must remain on the hinges or must be completely removed. You may tuck the trunk lid using one 90 degree bend: It must be completely stock, outside of that.
-Trunk lids can be #9 wired to the quarter panels, and/or speaker tray in up to 6 spots. You can use up to 2 loops of wire in these locations. Note: this needs to be done after inspection, and this is the only way you can attach your trunk lid.
-You may run 2 loops of #9 wire from quarter panel to quarter panel.
Hood/Cowl
-Outside of your 2 allthreads at the core support mount, you can #9 wire your hood down in up to 4 spots with 2 loops of wire. It can attach to the front bumper if you choose to.
-For safety you must have at least 9 wire or a chain ran from the roof to the top of the cowl in the windshield opening. You may ran up to two 2"x1/4" metal straps if you prefer.
Drivetrain
-You can use the engine and transmission of your choice. However, engine cradles, distributer protectors, header and carb protectors, pulley protectors, and trans braces are not allowed. No protectors of any kind. Engines must use factory style engine mounts and nothing aftermarket or homemade. Engines must mount within 4" factory location. The mounting pad may be welded to the frames ends carriage.
-You may use an aftermarket steel bellhousing for safety purposes, but no other bracing is allowed and no aftermarket tailshafts. Transmission must use a factory mount, or can be 9 wired to the crossmember.
-Floor shifter or cable shifter is allowed.
-Rearend swaps are not allowed. You cannot have any bracing on the rearend what so ever. Keep it all stock. You may lock the rearend by welding the spider gears, or using a spool. You can run whatever gear you'd like.
-Slider driveshafts are not permitted.
-You can run headers through the hood.
-Transmission and oil coolers are allowed, but be securely mounted and use high pressure lines.
-One factory car type radiator located in factory location. Aftermarket aluminum radiators are fine. You may use an electric fan. No extra engine cooling devices. If using a normal clutch type fan, your hood must cover it.
-Radiators can be mounted how they came from the factory, or you may #9 wire them or ratchet strap them to the core support. The only thing allowed in front of the radiator is one ac condesor.
Steering/Suspension
-Steering swaps are not allowed. All steering components must be the stock OEM parts for the car you are running. If parts need replaced go to the parts store and get the factory replacement part. Factory steering columns must be used, but you may alter the lower shaft (firewall to box) to help aid in losing steering. However, the box must be stock for that car. Tie rods cannot be reinforced in any way.
-You cannot lock your suspension solid. No welding on the a arms, or bolting them down, and no allthread shocks. You may change coil springs to help gain height.
-If you have a leafspring car, factory leafpacks, shackles, and clamps must me used.
-No coil to leafspring conversions.
-You may not chain rearends in. You can 9 wire springs to the rearend and to the package tray the spring sits in. Leaf spring cars may loops of 9 wire from the rearend to the body/unibody.
Bumpers/Frame
-Any passenger car bumper may be used for the front and back bumper. All bumper seems may be welded and the chrome skin may be beat flat and welded to the backing. Front bumpers only may be loaded on the inside of the bumper only. The chrome skin and backing of the bumper must appear factory from the outside. You may use up to a 6"x6" mounting plate if you'd like. Back bumper can be swapped, but may not be reinforced.
-When mounting front bumpers you may do one of 3 ways. Choose only 1.X
1. Use the factory shock. You can collapse the shock and weld the shock all the way around. Weld the shock to the frame and the bumper to the shock. No welding of the shock beyond 6" behind the factory core support mount. It must be left factory behind that point. You may weld a 2"X1/4" strap from the bumper to the frame, also 6" behind the core support mount to help hold the bumper on.
2. Do away with the factory shock and use up to a 2"x2" piece of square tubing inside the frame, or welded to the outside. It can be no further back than 6" behind the core support mount. No strap may be used if using this method.
3. Weld the bumper straight to the frame and use a 2"x1/4" strap welded to the bumper and on one side of the frame no further than 6" behind the factory core support mount.
-Note, you may trim the front frame down to square it up to make it easier to weld the bumper to it. However, the core mount and mounting bracket must stay in the factory location.
-The back bumper mounts and shocks must be used and not altered or welded on in any way. You may weld a piece of 2"X1/4" strap from the bumper to the frame, no more than 4" on the frame to help hold it on.
-The factory transmision crossmember must be used. You may use of to a 4"x4"x1/4" piece of angle iron welded to the frame to bolt or weld the crossmember to.
-You may notch/dimple rear frame rails.
-Absolutely no other welding may be done on the frame other than the bumper, engine mount, and crossmember mount. No seam welding.
-No frame shaping, pitching or cold tilting allowed.
-Pre-ran cars may use two 4"x4"x1/4" band-aid plates on a bent or broken frame. If there's more than two bend too bad.
-No rust patching on the frames.
Wheels/Tires
-No split rim, no beadlocks, and no protruding objects on rims.
-No studded tires
-Any tire & rim combination can be used other that.
HEAD INSPECTOR IS ALAN DOAN 765-505-9402 CALL WITH ANY QUESTIONS.
Read more: we-crash.proboards.com/thread/70019/2019-battle-boarder-team-cayuga#ixzz5aL34Uk4i
