Post by cthompson11 on Apr 24, 2018 12:48:02 GMT -5
Rockville Fair Derby 7/21/18
Clinton County Fair Derby 7/8/18
Sullivan Fair Derby 7/20/18
RULES
Limited-Weld, Compact, Trucks, Mini Trucks/Mini-Vans
please read rules for each event as some rules may have differences
Payouts
LIMITED-WELD COMPACTS TRUCKS MINI TRUCKS/MINI-VANS
1ST- $1200 1ST-$1000 1ST-$800 1ST-$800
2ND-$500 2ND-$400 2ND-$400 2ND-$300
3RD-$400 3RD-$100 3RD-$200 3RD-$200
4TH-$200 4TH-$100
5TH-$100
$100 JUNKED AWARD
HARD HITTER TROPHIES FOR EACH CLASS
$250 AND TROPHY FOR OVERALL HARD HITTER
Limited Weld Rules
No trucks, vans, ambulances, jeeps, carry-alls, limousines, 4-wheel drives, hearses. No Chrysler Imperials or bodies on imperial frames. 74 Imperials and newer are ok.
Absolutely no: radiator guards (other than stock A.C. condenser) or tranny protectors.
Frames:
1.No, pinning, filling, stuffing or painting. No Sean welding.
2. You may seam weld the top seam only from the front most mount of the a-arm to the bumper. You also may use 1 piece per frame rail of 2x4x1/4 strap to help aid in mounting your FRONT bumpers.
3. FIX - PLATES MAY BE 4 INCHES BY 6 INCHES BY ¼ INCH THICK
4. YOU MAY HAVE TWO 4”X6”X1/4” FIX-IT PLATES ON A FRESH CAR.
5. YOU MAY TILT YOUR CAR AT THE CRUSH BOXES OR AT THE CROSS-MEMBER NOT BOTH.
5A. IF YOU CAR IS TILTED AT THE CRUSH BOX OR THE THE CROSS-MEMBER YOU ARE ALLOW 2 FIX-IT PLATES ON A FRESH CAR. IF YOUR CAR IS TILTED AT THE CRUSH BOXES OR THE CROSS-MEMBER AND IS PRE-RAN YOU ARE ALLOWED 4 TOTAL FIX-IT PLATES.
5B. YOU MAY USE THE COLD BENDING METHOD OF TILTING.
5C. IF YOU COLD BEND TO TILT YOUR CAR YOU ARE ALLOWED 2 FIX-IT PLATES ON A FRESH CAR. IF YOU COLD BEND TO TILT YOUR CAR ON A PRE-RAN CAR YOU MAY HAVE A TOTAL OF 6 FIX-IT PLATES
6a. FIX-IT PLATES CAN BE ANYWHERE ON THE OUTSIDE OF THE FRAME AND MAY NOT BE TOUCHING IN ANY WAY. THIS INCLUDES WELDS TOUCH.
6b. If your car is not tilted you are allowed 2 plates on a fresh car and 6 total plates on a preran.
6c. You may only use one method to tilt.
6d. No frame shaping other than 12 inches in the center of each hump.
7. You may #9 wire or chain the frame rails together behind the humps. No homemade washers.
8. Frames can only be shortened to the front most weld of the core support mount. DO NOT CUT THESE OF AND REWELD THIS IS NOT A USEABLE SEAM. YOU MAY USE SPACERS ON A TILTED CAR, HOWEVER THE SPACER MUST REMAIN FLOATING, NOT WELDING SPACE TO THE FRAME OR CORE SUPPORT.
9. On uni-body cars (i.e. Suicide Lincolns, Cordobas….) you must have a ¾ hole drilled in frame in front and behind the a-arms on both sides. You may weld a ¾ hardware washer around the drill hole.
10. All frames will be scoped, and may be drill if something is in question.
Suspension:
1. Steering box swaps allowed. No welding on frame, keep mounts minimal.
2. Tie rods can aftermarket.
3. A-arms and spindles may be changed, but must stay Ford to Ford or GM to GM. No homemade or aftermarket parts with the exception of 98 and newer Ford cars may do the Watts Link conversion with ZTR style brackets. No additional metal may be added other than the brackets themselves.
4. Aftermarket steering shafts allowed.
5. A-arms may be bolted down with one 3/4 inch bolt per a-arm. No homemade washers. If you are running wishbone styles a-arms you may weld ONE piece of 2inch wide X 4 inches long x 1/8 inch thick piece of strap from a-arm to frame per of frame rail. This strap may not be welded more then 2" on to the frame. -Rear trail arms can be shortened or lengthened. Single hardware washers may be welded around the rear hole of the upper trail arms.
6. Rearend may be chained or wired around the frame in one spot per side.
7. Factory size, number and stagger will apply to factory leaf spring cars. 5 clamps per side, 2 3/8 inch bolts per clamp. Clamps no wider than 2 inches. No welding of leafs.
8. You may use ALL-THREAD as rear shocks. All-thread Shocks may not be attched to the frame in any way
Body Mounts :
1. Core support mounts may be replaced with up to 1 inch all-thread and ran through the hood. May be bolted solid or you may use a free-floating spacer. Spacers not to exceed 2x2 inch tubing.
2. 4 rear body mounts can be bolted solid. 2 of those may have ¾ inch all-thread ran vertically through the trunk lid. Wagons may go through the roof or pillars, but if you do that don’t use 2 pieces to hold the tailgate shut.
3. Core support and trunk washers may not exceed 4x4 inches.
4. Mopars can either go through the frame or be welded to the side. Must be on the flat part of the rear frame under the trunk pan.
5. No double nutting or sleeving the all-thread.
6. Body mounts from firewall to the humps may be changed. Only in factory locations. Only allowable substitution is to use a bolt no bigger than 3/4 inch. MUST HAVE 1’GAP FROM FIREWALL TO HUMPS. Do Not weld anything to body or frame.
7. Body mounts may not be used to mount your battery box, trans cooler, pedals, shifter, or any other floor mounted piece of equipment.
Drivetrain:
1. Any motor or transmission in any vehicle.
2. You may run a distributor protector, however if you choose to do so you must remove all cowl and firewall metal the width of the protector. Your distributor protector CANNOT connect the dash bar.
3. Engine cradles are allowed, but use a factory styled mount. NO SKI INC STYLED MOUNTS. CRADLES MUST NOT BE WELDED TO THE FRAME IN ANYWAY.
4. Solid lower engine mounts are allowed. If you need to weld plates under your lower mounts because they won’t sit on the engine crossmember that’s fine, but they must not be attached to the frame rails OR MORE THEN 2 INCHES LONGER OR WIDER THE THE MOUNT.
5. If you choose to chain your engine in, the chains must only be attached to the engine and straight down to engine crossmember.
6. Skid plates must be just for the pan they are protecting and can’t extend more than ½ inch from their pan.
7. You may run an aluminum ultra-bell on automatics OR STEEL BELLHOUSING. IF YOU RUN A STEEL BELLHOUSING YOU MUST CUT THE TRANSMISSION TUNNEL FROM FIREWALL TO SEAT AREA. Manual transmissions may run a blow proof bell housing. No additional bolts or welding permitted.
8. If you choose to not run the factory transmission cross member you may use 2”x2” tubing instead. It must mount in factory make and model location. No plates bigger than 2”x2” welded to the frame to weld your cross member to!!!
9. If you’re using a bolt on style transmission mount, it must be an O.E.M. rubber mount. If you choose to not run a mount, you may wrap chain or wire around transmission and cross member to hold it in place. NO WELDING and only one bolt if you choose the wire or chain route. -If your car is factory equipped with a floating cross member (example: mid 70’s Fords and 74 and older Cadillacs) you may add TWO 5/8” bolts and bolt it solid. Bolts may NOT run thru the floor pan in any way. If you choose to run a 2x2 piece of tubing for a crossmember it may NOT contact any metal other than where it is welded to the frame and the transmission tail shaft area. Washers cannot exceed 4”x4” diameter!!! This will be strictly enforced!!
10. Slider shafts are allowed.
11. Any factory car or truck rear end is allowed. No rear ends bigger than a 3500 series pickup permitted and only one wheel per side of rear end. You may weld brackets on the rear end to accommodate the vehicles factory suspension style. Rear end may be braced. Brace must only run across the back of the rearend and CANNOT re-enforce the frame in any way. NO AXEL SAVERS.
Bumper/Bumper Mounting:
1. Homemade pointy bumpers must have tapered point that closely resembles Chrysler pointy bumper.
2. Bumpers may be plated on the inside and on the backing of the bumper. No sharp edges. -Any front bumper bracket may be used on any car. If you choose to, you may make your shocks out of 2”x2” tubing ONLY
3. Absolutely no bracket or shock may be welded past 6 inches behind the factory core support mount hole on the frame rail. If your cars FACTORY shock or bracket goes farther than 6 inches back, it must remain COMPELTELY FACTORY.
4. If you choose to hard nose or put your shock inside the frame you MUST have a ¾” hole in the top center of your frame 6 inches behind the factory core support mount hole on the frame rail. (unless we can clearly see the shock stops where it is supposed to). You may weld a ¾” hardware washer around the hole to make up for the missing metal. Single pass only! -Suicide Lincolns and cars that have no core support mount must only go 6 inches past the vertical part of core support right above the frame rail when mounting the bumper. -Rear bumper brackets may be welded, single pass only. Absolutely no rear bracket may be moved forward.
5. Rear bumper height may NOT be any lower then 14inches to the bottom of the bumper.
Cage:
1. 4 point cages are allowed. Must be a minimum of 6 inches above the factory body mount height.
2. Dash bar must be 6” from any firewall or cowl sheet metal, must also be 6” off the transmission tunnel.
3. 4 down legs are allowed to the frame, but must only be located in between the front door inner seams.
4. Down legs off of the cage that attach to the body must be no further back than the rear spreader and no further forward than the front door inner seam.
5. Roll over bars must be vertical and no further back than the rear spreader bar (maximum of 6 inches behind the seat). You will only be allowed to attach bar to roof with 2 bolts no bigger than 1 inch. Washers must not exceed 4”x4”.
6. Gas tank protectors are allowed but must remain 4 inches from the rear firewall and no more than 30 inches wide, and in the center of the car. It can be bolted to the floor if NOT attached to the cage.
Body:
1. Sheet metal may be cut for clearance, but no bending, folding or reattaching anywhere. -You may use five 3/8” bolts per wheel well opening. Hardware washers only. Absolutely no other bolting of the body other than the bolts allowed in the hood.
2. You’re allowed a maximum of 8 spots of double stranded #9 wire to hold hood down. You may weld a 1 inch hardware washer around each hole to keep from tearing. All wire must be body to body only.
3. Wagons tailgates may have 8 spots of double stranded #9 wire and 2 pieces of 3/4 all-thread, but the all-thread must be through the body only and NOT the frame.
4. The only acceptable rust repair on any car is allowed in the driver and passenger area. This is for safety purposes only, and if we think you used this to strengthen the car for anything other than safety purposes you will not be allowed to run.
5. Doors may be welded solid with strap no bigger than 4” x 1/8”. Tops of doors may be folded over and welded, but no added metal. Absolutely no other body seam welding besides doors!!
6. Hood must be open for inspection.
7. You may use 4 feet of 2”x 1/8” strap to secure trunk lids or wagon tailgates. Must be able to see inside trunk areas.
8. You may run double stranded #9 wire from quarter panel to quarter panel in trunk to keep the quarters from blowing apart. Single hardware washers may be welded around the holes.
9. No wedged cars allowed
10. Sedagons will be allowed, but call for allowable tucking methods. MUST BE ABLE TO SEE INSIDE REAR COMPARTMENT AREA.
11. In addition to the 2 pieces of all-thread in the core support, you will be allowed 4 more bolts to hold the hood down. Must be body to body only and the washers must not exceed 4”x4”. Or you may use double stranded #9 wire in 8 spots.
12. No more than ten 3/8” bolts to hold your outer hood skin to your inner hood skin.
13. You will be allowed 4 spots of double stranded #9 wire from your hood/core support to your front bumper.
14. Body creasing is allowed, but absolutely no bolting or welding to assist.
03 and Newer:
1. 03 and newer car are allowed, but may only use factory Ford parts. You may also only use a single pass of weld to attach k-member no wider then 1/2 inch. No plating or filling crush holes in the front. Must have a ¾ hole behind the a-arms for inspection, hole may have a ¾ washer weld around, but inspectors must be able to fit ¾ drill bit in the hole. No square tubing for spring pockets and no ALL-THREAD for front shocks. All other limited weld rules apply. YOU MAY ALSO A BOLT IN K-MEMBER BUT MUST USE A FORD FACTORY K-MEBER, AND MAY NOT USE SQUARE TUBING FOR SPRING POCKETS. ALL OTHER RULES APPLY. NO SEAM WELDING ON 03 AND NEWER.
COMPACT RULES
First 30 to pass inspection
A. Body
1. Remove all glass.
2. Cylinders must be removed on hood and hatch if applicable.
3. YOU MAY WELD ALL DOOR, TRUNK/HATCHBACK SEAMS WITH 2INCH WIDE 1/8 INCH THICK DOOR STRAP. DOORS AND DECK LIDS MAY BE CHAINED OR WIRED IF YOU DO NOT WELD, NOT ALL OF THE ABOVE. DO NOT WELD HOOD.
4. Wire is to be #9 wire, unlimited amount (Use as much as you want because anyone can get it)
5. You may replace body mounts with all thread or bolts no bigger than 1”.
6. Car must have a pipe, wire, or plate from the cowl to the roof to prevent the hood from entering car. You may add one to the front & side windows. Sheet metal to sheet metal mounting only. Nothing to cage or rollover bar. 2 pieces in each window opening max. Max. Material is 4x1/4. This is for your safety, not to reinforce your car!
7. You may use wire, bolts, or all thread no bigger than 1” to secure hood. (all-thread nuts need a handle to open hood)
8. Front doors should be painted white to help us cut down on door hits. If your door is not white – don’t whine if we don’t see a door hit on your car.
9. Roof – The car must have the number on a roof sign on the roof of the car a minimum of 24” tall or we will spray paint the number on the top of the car. No PROFANITY or OFFENSIVE material including numbers allowed on the car!!! This is a family show!
10. NO REINFORCEMENT anywhere on the car.
B. Drive Train
1. Maximum original wheelbase dimension is 106” rear wheel drive center wheel to center wheel 113 front wheel drive center of wheel to center of wheel. A car may not run the race with a longer original factory wheelbase! No shortening of Frame to make it 106”.
2. Engine must be 4 or 6 cylinders only. (No V8’s)
3. NO 4x4 compact cars unless one driveshaft has been removed disabling that option. 4x4 cars are considered a rear wheel drive car regardless of which drive shaft is removed.
4. No distributor protectors or pulley protectors or transmission saddles allowed. Engine cradles are allowed as long as they are not being used to strengthen frame in any way.
4a. Distributor protectors only allowed on engines with distributor mounts in front of the motor
5. Front suspension may be locked. If you need to do so you may weld 1 strap to the body/frame (not the k-member) to do so. Strap must not be more than 2” onto the frame/body. If we feel you are using the strap to strengthen the car you will cut it.
6. Do not weld k-members or sub-frames to the bodies in anyway, this is not a seam.
7. Top outside seams may be welded. Do not seam weld anything in the driver/passenger compartment, do not weld any seams in the truck.
8. you may bolt you hood in 4 additional spots other than the core support. These must be hood to fender. You may use #9 wire in 4 places hood to fender to hold hood down. DO NOT USE BOTH.
9. No 8-lug rear-ends/ No floater rear-ends allowed
C. Bumper
Judge’s decision on safety of homemade bumpers is final.
1. Bumper height must be within reason, normal heights in front and the back not dropped to the ground, at the decision of the official (Safety 1st)
2. You can use ANY factory bumper or bumper shock on ANY model car. 2 bumper shocks max per fame rail, one front & one rear only per side. There must be a minimum 6" gap between bumper shocks and a-arms/strut. You may manufacture your own bumper mounts within these limits (4” max material). If you make a "homemade pointy" you have to have it where it is the same dimensions as factory Chrysler pointy. No small wedges allowed one's that looks like a wood splitting wedge. You are allowed 6” of the frame rail to mount your bumper with homemade components. Maximum homemade bumper height 6”. 6” maximum bumper material, 4” max material on bumper shocks, cannot be stacked. Your mounting is restricted to the rail only and can't bridge across frame rails. In addition to the weld &/or bolts, we also recommend either wiring or chaining the bumper to the frame. You may use a strap to help hold bumper on. It is to be no thicker than 1/4” and no wider than 3” and should not extend past 6” on top of the frame. Bumper strap to top or bottom of frame not both. No kickers from corner of bumper to frame. You are allowed to run a 1/4" spec bumper with a factory chrome skin covering it. Can be up to ¼” box tubing but must appear like a bumper! Minor “bumper only” reinforcement allowed to extend the life, but must be on the bumper only. No rear bumper brackets on the front of cars. Hard nosing allowed. You are allowed up to 24" of bumper to body welding with no fillers or plates. That is total for front and rear bumpers.
D. Driver Compartment
1. Remove stock gas tanks and put one in the back floor board, tightly secure, and cover. Gas Tank must be mounted inside the passenger compartment, tightly secured, and covered. Plastic tanks must be in a solid metal containment box & covered or you will not be allowed to participate, no exceptions. (We strongly recommend metal tanks!). Absolutely NO stock fuel lines. Secure new fuel line properly inside of the driver’s compartment, not underneath car. Keep away from exhaust. Gas tank protectors must be mounted to the cage or the floor pan, not both. Side bars must be at least 12” from the side sheet metal. Gas tank protector if on cage must be a "halo" type bar only, no gap required between protector and cage if floor mounted and not connected to sheet metal in any way (bolted or welded). Electric fuel pumps must be double clamped and covered. NO electronic fuel pumps without a full cutoff switch.
2. Move battery to inside the passenger compartment, tightly secure it, and cover it up.
3. MUST have a spreader bar behind the seat & must have driver door protection. Up to a 4” diameter Bar can be used
4. Cage must be at least a 4 point cage. No down bars in front of dash bars.
5. No kickers or angled down tubes allowed
6. The cage must be contained inside the car
7. Spreader bar must be at least channel, square tubing, or pipe, no thin wall material! Spreader bar must be behind seat.
8. You may weld, wire, or chain doors shut.
9. UNLIMITED # 9 wire use.
10. If inspection holes are not adequate in frame rails, we will drill a 3/4” hole approx 4” ahead of the strut on outside of the frame.
Please review the normal Modified car rules and apply all of those rules THAT CAN BE APPLIED.
You must have roll over protection for Safety!!!
2018 Mini Truck/Mini Van Rules
1. Any American or foreign made mini pick up, mini-van, compact SUV type vehicles permitted.
2. any 4 cylinder or 6 cylinder engine. (if it has a dp or mid plate, the firewall must be cut wide as the headers or engine block.)
4. Fuel tanks must be located in the bed of the trucks in the center of the bed directly behind cab. Fuel cells must be securely fastened and covered. Mini Vans must be mounted inside in a safe manner between the 2nd row doors. (NO FACTORY GAS TANKS)
5. Battery must be moved inside and mounted in a safe manner.
6. All trucks/Vans must have seat belts.
7. Doors, tailgates, and hatches must be secured by wire, chain, or welded shut no loose doors permitted. 6 on 6 off.
8. Box and cab mounts may be replaced with up to 1” bolts body mounts may be removed. The body bolts may go all the way through the frame and floor of truck/mini-van.
9. No trailer hitches or reinforcements of frame or body of any kind permitted.
10. May use any loaded factory car bumper or homemade bumper that is 6x6 box tube with no more than a 4” point over a 32” wide span. For mounting of car bumpers you may use factory bumper shocks and brackets or a 3” X 3” X 6” long box steel or likewise material.
11. Hoods must be in place and must have a 12” X 12” hole cut in hood over carburetor/engine
12. Hoods may be wired or bolted shut in 8 locations. Bolts can be up to 3/4” wire double strands of wire permitted all can go to frame or bumper see full-size rules.
13. No 4 wheel drives permitted 4 wheel drives must have front drive shaft removed.
14. Tires black and round
15. Beds must be welded to cab of trucks with a 3” strap directly behind doors.
16. 8 double strands of wire permitted on front and rear of truck all permitted to go to frame
17. Front suspension may be solid with 2x2 straps on a-arms or solid spacer on the strut/ welded strut. No homemade struts. All other suspension must remain factory. (tie rods, ball joints, rack and pinion etc)
18. A 4 point cage is highly recommended in drivers compartment for drivers safety. The cage in the cab may have 4 down legs from front and rear bar straight down to the top of frame. Also a gas tank protector is highly recommended. Protector may attach to frame but may not extend further than 24” from the front of the bed.
19. Trucks must set level no pulling down rear of the truck. No smashing of the bed sides will be permitted. You must use factory springs for make and model of truck. You may use chain on rear axle to secure ride height.
20. You may run aftermarket or homemade steering column, floor mount brake pedal, gas pedal, shifter, trans cooler, slider drive shaft, and carb conversions are ok.
TRUCK RULES
First 25 to pass inspection
A. Any 2-wheel drive pickup, SUV ½ ton to 1 ton trucks, must be an OEM PICKUP TRUCK frame. No industrial style, straight C channel style frames will be allowed, and no dually wheels will be allowed. 4 x 4 Trucks or SUVs are allowed, however, one driveshaft must be removed so that the 4 wheel drive option is disabled.
B. PROTECTORS
Distributor protectors allowed, NO radiator guards allowed (other than stock A.C. condenser), NO tranny protectors, or tranny case modifications. Aluminum or Steel replacement bell housings allowed in Truck class. Also, NO rear-end bracing!!! No add-on metal protruding from axle or wheel assembly past the studs or nuts.
No PROFANITY or OFFENSIVE material including numbers allowed on the truck!!! This is a family show!
C. Frame
1. All seams can be welded, single-pass only. No pinning, plating, filling, stuffing or painting; other than what is allowed in our rules. must be an OEM PICKUP TRUCK frame. No industrial style, straight C channel style frames will be allowed
D. Drivetrain:
1. Any motor or transmission in any vehicle
2. Basic engine cradles only with pulley protector allowed.
3. Skid plates allowed but can’t extend more than ½” from the pan they are protecting
4. Solid lower engine mounts are allowed
5. Slider shafts are allowed
6. No rear-ends bigger than a 3500 series pickup. If running a dually rear-end, you may only run one wheel per side. No rear-end bracing
E. Suspension
1. Front suspensions may be converted from coil spring to leaf spring design. Keep the leaf springs mounts minimal. Do not use them to strengthen the frame.
2. Tie-rods can be welded up but no additional metal can be added
3. You may add 2 clamps in front of the axle and 3 behind the axle. Max of 2 bolts per clamp. Bolts can’t be bigger than 3/8” and clamps can only be 2” wide. No duct tape or welding on the springs.
4. Aftermarket steering shafts are allowed
5. Solid front suspensions are allowed but do not use this to strengthen the frame or you will need to cut it in order to run.
F. Body
1. Remove all glass.
2. All body bolts can be replaced and bolted solid with no bolts bigger than 1” You may use 1” all-thread in the core support and run it up through the hood. 4” x 4” maximum body mount washer size
3. Trucks should remain looking like trucks. Bedside must remain in the stock position. You may fold bedsides over from the wheel wells back and tailgate may be folded over. If you choose to do so, you may use 2 pieces of all thread on the frame behind the wheel wells to hold bedsides down or may be attached to bed floor with #9 wire. Must be a gap to see inside. Suburbans may be ‘sedagoned’. If you choose to “tuck” a suburban or other long roof vehicle, you may only attach the roof to quarter panels with #9 wire. You may not weld the roof down. You must have a hole measuring 12 x 12 inches in the roof for inspection. 4. You may weld, wire, or chain doors shut. The tailgate may be wired, bolted, or welded shut. The tailgate may be lowered half the height of the tailgate. Cab may be welded to bed (please do).
4. In addition to the 2 pieces of all-thread in the core support, you will be allowed 4 more bolts to hold the hood down. Must be body to body only and the washers must not exceed 4” x 4”. It must be body to body only.
5. No more than 10-3/8” bolts to hold your outer hood skin to your inner hood skin.
6. Wire is to be #9 wire, unlimited amount (Use as much as you want because anyone can get it)
7. Truck must have a pipe, wire, or plate from the cowl to the roof to prevent the hood from entering Truck. You may add one to the front & side windows. 2 pieces in each window opening max. Max. Material is 4x 3/8”. This is for your safety, not to reinforce your truck! Driver’s Safety comes first.
8. NO REINFORCEMENT anywhere on the truck.
9. Five 3/8” bolts per wheel well. Hardware washers only.
10. If weight is added to the bed, it must be safe and non-reinforcing at the inspector’s discretion.
11. Roof - The truck must have the number on a roof sign on the roof of the truck a minimum of 24” tall or we will spray paint the number on the top of the truck. No PROFANITY or OFFENSIVE material including numbers allowed on the truck!!! This is a family show!
12. PRE-RAN TRUCKS may weld a plate/band-aid no bigger than 4”x 6” x 3/8” up to four (4) on a visible bend. There must be at least a 1-inch gap between plates. No angle iron or C-channel may be used. If rear of truck is wedged, up to discretion of inspection crew to have you modify it for safety purposes.
G. Driver Compartment
1. Move battery to inside the cab, tightly secure it, and cover it up. You may use 2 automotive batteries or 1 large marine battery.
2. MUST have a spreader bar behind the seat & must have driver door protection. Up to a 4” diameter Bar can be used
3. CAGE **REQUIRED Spreader bar must be at least channel, square tubing, or pipe, NO thin wall material! Truck must have REQUIRED door protection for driver. Minimum required 4 point cage. Front cage bar (dash bar) must be straight across front of truck and maintain the 6” gap to the distributor protector. You are allowed two down bars per side that may attach to the frame. Cage must go no further back than the front edge of the rear wheel humps. Down legs in rear must go to flat part of frame only. There may also be 1 rollover loop that can be attached to the bar behind the seat and go straight up over the exterior side of the roof. Cage may have 4 down legs, 3 spreader bars and 2 door bars.
4. No kickers or angled down tubes allowed. No down bars in front of dash bars.
5. Spreader bar must be at least channel, square tubing, or pipe, no thin wall material! Spreader bar must be behind seat. 3 spreader bars total are allowed.
H. Radiator
1. Any type automotive radiator may be used but MUST be mounted in stock position. At driver’s option, he/she may compete without a radiator, but MUST run on water in the engine block only. NO RESERVE TANKS ARE ALLOWED.
I. Gas Tank
1. Gas Tank must be mounted in bed behind cab, tightly secured, and covered. Plastic tanks must be in a solid metal containment box & covered or you will not be allowed to participate. No exceptions. (We strongly recommend metal tanks!) Absolutely NO stock fuel lines. Secure new fuel line properly inside of the driver’s compartment, not underneath truck. Keep away from exhaust. Gas tank protectors must be mounted to the cage or the floor pan, not both and is not to extend more than 36 inches from the front of the bed, but can be full width of bed. Gas tank protector if on cage must be a "halo" type bar only, no gap required between protector and cage if floor mounted and not connected to sheet metal in any way (bolted or welded). Electric fuel pumps must be double clamped and covered. NO electronic fuel pumps without a full cutoff switch.
J. Bumper
1. Maximum front bumper height is 28” from the ground to the BOTTOM of the bumper, pre-ran truck or fresh build. Back bumper minimum height is 20” from the ground to the BOTTOM of the bumper.
2. If you make a "homemade pointy" you have to have it where it is the same dimensions as factory Chrysler pointy. Judge’s decision on safety of homemade bumpers is final. No small wedges allowed one's that looks like a wood splitting wedge.
3. May weld up factory bumper brackets, or you may make homemade shocks but shocks can’t be bigger than 2” x 2” tubing. Your bumper brackets or shocks may not be welded, bolted, or modified to factory cross-member approx 10 inches behind the factory core support mount hole.
K. Tires
1. No solid Tires (Hyster tires, etc.) Tires MUST contain some air. No split rims.
Please review the normal Modified car rules and apply all of those rules THAT CAN BE APPLIED.
You must have roll over protection for Safety!!!
Clinton County Fair Derby 7/8/18
Sullivan Fair Derby 7/20/18
RULES
Limited-Weld, Compact, Trucks, Mini Trucks/Mini-Vans
please read rules for each event as some rules may have differences
Payouts
LIMITED-WELD COMPACTS TRUCKS MINI TRUCKS/MINI-VANS
1ST- $1200 1ST-$1000 1ST-$800 1ST-$800
2ND-$500 2ND-$400 2ND-$400 2ND-$300
3RD-$400 3RD-$100 3RD-$200 3RD-$200
4TH-$200 4TH-$100
5TH-$100
$100 JUNKED AWARD
HARD HITTER TROPHIES FOR EACH CLASS
$250 AND TROPHY FOR OVERALL HARD HITTER
Limited Weld Rules
No trucks, vans, ambulances, jeeps, carry-alls, limousines, 4-wheel drives, hearses. No Chrysler Imperials or bodies on imperial frames. 74 Imperials and newer are ok.
Absolutely no: radiator guards (other than stock A.C. condenser) or tranny protectors.
Frames:
1.No, pinning, filling, stuffing or painting. No Sean welding.
2. You may seam weld the top seam only from the front most mount of the a-arm to the bumper. You also may use 1 piece per frame rail of 2x4x1/4 strap to help aid in mounting your FRONT bumpers.
3. FIX - PLATES MAY BE 4 INCHES BY 6 INCHES BY ¼ INCH THICK
4. YOU MAY HAVE TWO 4”X6”X1/4” FIX-IT PLATES ON A FRESH CAR.
5. YOU MAY TILT YOUR CAR AT THE CRUSH BOXES OR AT THE CROSS-MEMBER NOT BOTH.
5A. IF YOU CAR IS TILTED AT THE CRUSH BOX OR THE THE CROSS-MEMBER YOU ARE ALLOW 2 FIX-IT PLATES ON A FRESH CAR. IF YOUR CAR IS TILTED AT THE CRUSH BOXES OR THE CROSS-MEMBER AND IS PRE-RAN YOU ARE ALLOWED 4 TOTAL FIX-IT PLATES.
5B. YOU MAY USE THE COLD BENDING METHOD OF TILTING.
5C. IF YOU COLD BEND TO TILT YOUR CAR YOU ARE ALLOWED 2 FIX-IT PLATES ON A FRESH CAR. IF YOU COLD BEND TO TILT YOUR CAR ON A PRE-RAN CAR YOU MAY HAVE A TOTAL OF 6 FIX-IT PLATES
6a. FIX-IT PLATES CAN BE ANYWHERE ON THE OUTSIDE OF THE FRAME AND MAY NOT BE TOUCHING IN ANY WAY. THIS INCLUDES WELDS TOUCH.
6b. If your car is not tilted you are allowed 2 plates on a fresh car and 6 total plates on a preran.
6c. You may only use one method to tilt.
6d. No frame shaping other than 12 inches in the center of each hump.
7. You may #9 wire or chain the frame rails together behind the humps. No homemade washers.
8. Frames can only be shortened to the front most weld of the core support mount. DO NOT CUT THESE OF AND REWELD THIS IS NOT A USEABLE SEAM. YOU MAY USE SPACERS ON A TILTED CAR, HOWEVER THE SPACER MUST REMAIN FLOATING, NOT WELDING SPACE TO THE FRAME OR CORE SUPPORT.
9. On uni-body cars (i.e. Suicide Lincolns, Cordobas….) you must have a ¾ hole drilled in frame in front and behind the a-arms on both sides. You may weld a ¾ hardware washer around the drill hole.
10. All frames will be scoped, and may be drill if something is in question.
Suspension:
1. Steering box swaps allowed. No welding on frame, keep mounts minimal.
2. Tie rods can aftermarket.
3. A-arms and spindles may be changed, but must stay Ford to Ford or GM to GM. No homemade or aftermarket parts with the exception of 98 and newer Ford cars may do the Watts Link conversion with ZTR style brackets. No additional metal may be added other than the brackets themselves.
4. Aftermarket steering shafts allowed.
5. A-arms may be bolted down with one 3/4 inch bolt per a-arm. No homemade washers. If you are running wishbone styles a-arms you may weld ONE piece of 2inch wide X 4 inches long x 1/8 inch thick piece of strap from a-arm to frame per of frame rail. This strap may not be welded more then 2" on to the frame. -Rear trail arms can be shortened or lengthened. Single hardware washers may be welded around the rear hole of the upper trail arms.
6. Rearend may be chained or wired around the frame in one spot per side.
7. Factory size, number and stagger will apply to factory leaf spring cars. 5 clamps per side, 2 3/8 inch bolts per clamp. Clamps no wider than 2 inches. No welding of leafs.
8. You may use ALL-THREAD as rear shocks. All-thread Shocks may not be attched to the frame in any way
Body Mounts :
1. Core support mounts may be replaced with up to 1 inch all-thread and ran through the hood. May be bolted solid or you may use a free-floating spacer. Spacers not to exceed 2x2 inch tubing.
2. 4 rear body mounts can be bolted solid. 2 of those may have ¾ inch all-thread ran vertically through the trunk lid. Wagons may go through the roof or pillars, but if you do that don’t use 2 pieces to hold the tailgate shut.
3. Core support and trunk washers may not exceed 4x4 inches.
4. Mopars can either go through the frame or be welded to the side. Must be on the flat part of the rear frame under the trunk pan.
5. No double nutting or sleeving the all-thread.
6. Body mounts from firewall to the humps may be changed. Only in factory locations. Only allowable substitution is to use a bolt no bigger than 3/4 inch. MUST HAVE 1’GAP FROM FIREWALL TO HUMPS. Do Not weld anything to body or frame.
7. Body mounts may not be used to mount your battery box, trans cooler, pedals, shifter, or any other floor mounted piece of equipment.
Drivetrain:
1. Any motor or transmission in any vehicle.
2. You may run a distributor protector, however if you choose to do so you must remove all cowl and firewall metal the width of the protector. Your distributor protector CANNOT connect the dash bar.
3. Engine cradles are allowed, but use a factory styled mount. NO SKI INC STYLED MOUNTS. CRADLES MUST NOT BE WELDED TO THE FRAME IN ANYWAY.
4. Solid lower engine mounts are allowed. If you need to weld plates under your lower mounts because they won’t sit on the engine crossmember that’s fine, but they must not be attached to the frame rails OR MORE THEN 2 INCHES LONGER OR WIDER THE THE MOUNT.
5. If you choose to chain your engine in, the chains must only be attached to the engine and straight down to engine crossmember.
6. Skid plates must be just for the pan they are protecting and can’t extend more than ½ inch from their pan.
7. You may run an aluminum ultra-bell on automatics OR STEEL BELLHOUSING. IF YOU RUN A STEEL BELLHOUSING YOU MUST CUT THE TRANSMISSION TUNNEL FROM FIREWALL TO SEAT AREA. Manual transmissions may run a blow proof bell housing. No additional bolts or welding permitted.
8. If you choose to not run the factory transmission cross member you may use 2”x2” tubing instead. It must mount in factory make and model location. No plates bigger than 2”x2” welded to the frame to weld your cross member to!!!
9. If you’re using a bolt on style transmission mount, it must be an O.E.M. rubber mount. If you choose to not run a mount, you may wrap chain or wire around transmission and cross member to hold it in place. NO WELDING and only one bolt if you choose the wire or chain route. -If your car is factory equipped with a floating cross member (example: mid 70’s Fords and 74 and older Cadillacs) you may add TWO 5/8” bolts and bolt it solid. Bolts may NOT run thru the floor pan in any way. If you choose to run a 2x2 piece of tubing for a crossmember it may NOT contact any metal other than where it is welded to the frame and the transmission tail shaft area. Washers cannot exceed 4”x4” diameter!!! This will be strictly enforced!!
10. Slider shafts are allowed.
11. Any factory car or truck rear end is allowed. No rear ends bigger than a 3500 series pickup permitted and only one wheel per side of rear end. You may weld brackets on the rear end to accommodate the vehicles factory suspension style. Rear end may be braced. Brace must only run across the back of the rearend and CANNOT re-enforce the frame in any way. NO AXEL SAVERS.
Bumper/Bumper Mounting:
1. Homemade pointy bumpers must have tapered point that closely resembles Chrysler pointy bumper.
2. Bumpers may be plated on the inside and on the backing of the bumper. No sharp edges. -Any front bumper bracket may be used on any car. If you choose to, you may make your shocks out of 2”x2” tubing ONLY
3. Absolutely no bracket or shock may be welded past 6 inches behind the factory core support mount hole on the frame rail. If your cars FACTORY shock or bracket goes farther than 6 inches back, it must remain COMPELTELY FACTORY.
4. If you choose to hard nose or put your shock inside the frame you MUST have a ¾” hole in the top center of your frame 6 inches behind the factory core support mount hole on the frame rail. (unless we can clearly see the shock stops where it is supposed to). You may weld a ¾” hardware washer around the hole to make up for the missing metal. Single pass only! -Suicide Lincolns and cars that have no core support mount must only go 6 inches past the vertical part of core support right above the frame rail when mounting the bumper. -Rear bumper brackets may be welded, single pass only. Absolutely no rear bracket may be moved forward.
5. Rear bumper height may NOT be any lower then 14inches to the bottom of the bumper.
Cage:
1. 4 point cages are allowed. Must be a minimum of 6 inches above the factory body mount height.
2. Dash bar must be 6” from any firewall or cowl sheet metal, must also be 6” off the transmission tunnel.
3. 4 down legs are allowed to the frame, but must only be located in between the front door inner seams.
4. Down legs off of the cage that attach to the body must be no further back than the rear spreader and no further forward than the front door inner seam.
5. Roll over bars must be vertical and no further back than the rear spreader bar (maximum of 6 inches behind the seat). You will only be allowed to attach bar to roof with 2 bolts no bigger than 1 inch. Washers must not exceed 4”x4”.
6. Gas tank protectors are allowed but must remain 4 inches from the rear firewall and no more than 30 inches wide, and in the center of the car. It can be bolted to the floor if NOT attached to the cage.
Body:
1. Sheet metal may be cut for clearance, but no bending, folding or reattaching anywhere. -You may use five 3/8” bolts per wheel well opening. Hardware washers only. Absolutely no other bolting of the body other than the bolts allowed in the hood.
2. You’re allowed a maximum of 8 spots of double stranded #9 wire to hold hood down. You may weld a 1 inch hardware washer around each hole to keep from tearing. All wire must be body to body only.
3. Wagons tailgates may have 8 spots of double stranded #9 wire and 2 pieces of 3/4 all-thread, but the all-thread must be through the body only and NOT the frame.
4. The only acceptable rust repair on any car is allowed in the driver and passenger area. This is for safety purposes only, and if we think you used this to strengthen the car for anything other than safety purposes you will not be allowed to run.
5. Doors may be welded solid with strap no bigger than 4” x 1/8”. Tops of doors may be folded over and welded, but no added metal. Absolutely no other body seam welding besides doors!!
6. Hood must be open for inspection.
7. You may use 4 feet of 2”x 1/8” strap to secure trunk lids or wagon tailgates. Must be able to see inside trunk areas.
8. You may run double stranded #9 wire from quarter panel to quarter panel in trunk to keep the quarters from blowing apart. Single hardware washers may be welded around the holes.
9. No wedged cars allowed
10. Sedagons will be allowed, but call for allowable tucking methods. MUST BE ABLE TO SEE INSIDE REAR COMPARTMENT AREA.
11. In addition to the 2 pieces of all-thread in the core support, you will be allowed 4 more bolts to hold the hood down. Must be body to body only and the washers must not exceed 4”x4”. Or you may use double stranded #9 wire in 8 spots.
12. No more than ten 3/8” bolts to hold your outer hood skin to your inner hood skin.
13. You will be allowed 4 spots of double stranded #9 wire from your hood/core support to your front bumper.
14. Body creasing is allowed, but absolutely no bolting or welding to assist.
03 and Newer:
1. 03 and newer car are allowed, but may only use factory Ford parts. You may also only use a single pass of weld to attach k-member no wider then 1/2 inch. No plating or filling crush holes in the front. Must have a ¾ hole behind the a-arms for inspection, hole may have a ¾ washer weld around, but inspectors must be able to fit ¾ drill bit in the hole. No square tubing for spring pockets and no ALL-THREAD for front shocks. All other limited weld rules apply. YOU MAY ALSO A BOLT IN K-MEMBER BUT MUST USE A FORD FACTORY K-MEBER, AND MAY NOT USE SQUARE TUBING FOR SPRING POCKETS. ALL OTHER RULES APPLY. NO SEAM WELDING ON 03 AND NEWER.
COMPACT RULES
First 30 to pass inspection
A. Body
1. Remove all glass.
2. Cylinders must be removed on hood and hatch if applicable.
3. YOU MAY WELD ALL DOOR, TRUNK/HATCHBACK SEAMS WITH 2INCH WIDE 1/8 INCH THICK DOOR STRAP. DOORS AND DECK LIDS MAY BE CHAINED OR WIRED IF YOU DO NOT WELD, NOT ALL OF THE ABOVE. DO NOT WELD HOOD.
4. Wire is to be #9 wire, unlimited amount (Use as much as you want because anyone can get it)
5. You may replace body mounts with all thread or bolts no bigger than 1”.
6. Car must have a pipe, wire, or plate from the cowl to the roof to prevent the hood from entering car. You may add one to the front & side windows. Sheet metal to sheet metal mounting only. Nothing to cage or rollover bar. 2 pieces in each window opening max. Max. Material is 4x1/4. This is for your safety, not to reinforce your car!
7. You may use wire, bolts, or all thread no bigger than 1” to secure hood. (all-thread nuts need a handle to open hood)
8. Front doors should be painted white to help us cut down on door hits. If your door is not white – don’t whine if we don’t see a door hit on your car.
9. Roof – The car must have the number on a roof sign on the roof of the car a minimum of 24” tall or we will spray paint the number on the top of the car. No PROFANITY or OFFENSIVE material including numbers allowed on the car!!! This is a family show!
10. NO REINFORCEMENT anywhere on the car.
B. Drive Train
1. Maximum original wheelbase dimension is 106” rear wheel drive center wheel to center wheel 113 front wheel drive center of wheel to center of wheel. A car may not run the race with a longer original factory wheelbase! No shortening of Frame to make it 106”.
2. Engine must be 4 or 6 cylinders only. (No V8’s)
3. NO 4x4 compact cars unless one driveshaft has been removed disabling that option. 4x4 cars are considered a rear wheel drive car regardless of which drive shaft is removed.
4. No distributor protectors or pulley protectors or transmission saddles allowed. Engine cradles are allowed as long as they are not being used to strengthen frame in any way.
4a. Distributor protectors only allowed on engines with distributor mounts in front of the motor
5. Front suspension may be locked. If you need to do so you may weld 1 strap to the body/frame (not the k-member) to do so. Strap must not be more than 2” onto the frame/body. If we feel you are using the strap to strengthen the car you will cut it.
6. Do not weld k-members or sub-frames to the bodies in anyway, this is not a seam.
7. Top outside seams may be welded. Do not seam weld anything in the driver/passenger compartment, do not weld any seams in the truck.
8. you may bolt you hood in 4 additional spots other than the core support. These must be hood to fender. You may use #9 wire in 4 places hood to fender to hold hood down. DO NOT USE BOTH.
9. No 8-lug rear-ends/ No floater rear-ends allowed
C. Bumper
Judge’s decision on safety of homemade bumpers is final.
1. Bumper height must be within reason, normal heights in front and the back not dropped to the ground, at the decision of the official (Safety 1st)
2. You can use ANY factory bumper or bumper shock on ANY model car. 2 bumper shocks max per fame rail, one front & one rear only per side. There must be a minimum 6" gap between bumper shocks and a-arms/strut. You may manufacture your own bumper mounts within these limits (4” max material). If you make a "homemade pointy" you have to have it where it is the same dimensions as factory Chrysler pointy. No small wedges allowed one's that looks like a wood splitting wedge. You are allowed 6” of the frame rail to mount your bumper with homemade components. Maximum homemade bumper height 6”. 6” maximum bumper material, 4” max material on bumper shocks, cannot be stacked. Your mounting is restricted to the rail only and can't bridge across frame rails. In addition to the weld &/or bolts, we also recommend either wiring or chaining the bumper to the frame. You may use a strap to help hold bumper on. It is to be no thicker than 1/4” and no wider than 3” and should not extend past 6” on top of the frame. Bumper strap to top or bottom of frame not both. No kickers from corner of bumper to frame. You are allowed to run a 1/4" spec bumper with a factory chrome skin covering it. Can be up to ¼” box tubing but must appear like a bumper! Minor “bumper only” reinforcement allowed to extend the life, but must be on the bumper only. No rear bumper brackets on the front of cars. Hard nosing allowed. You are allowed up to 24" of bumper to body welding with no fillers or plates. That is total for front and rear bumpers.
D. Driver Compartment
1. Remove stock gas tanks and put one in the back floor board, tightly secure, and cover. Gas Tank must be mounted inside the passenger compartment, tightly secured, and covered. Plastic tanks must be in a solid metal containment box & covered or you will not be allowed to participate, no exceptions. (We strongly recommend metal tanks!). Absolutely NO stock fuel lines. Secure new fuel line properly inside of the driver’s compartment, not underneath car. Keep away from exhaust. Gas tank protectors must be mounted to the cage or the floor pan, not both. Side bars must be at least 12” from the side sheet metal. Gas tank protector if on cage must be a "halo" type bar only, no gap required between protector and cage if floor mounted and not connected to sheet metal in any way (bolted or welded). Electric fuel pumps must be double clamped and covered. NO electronic fuel pumps without a full cutoff switch.
2. Move battery to inside the passenger compartment, tightly secure it, and cover it up.
3. MUST have a spreader bar behind the seat & must have driver door protection. Up to a 4” diameter Bar can be used
4. Cage must be at least a 4 point cage. No down bars in front of dash bars.
5. No kickers or angled down tubes allowed
6. The cage must be contained inside the car
7. Spreader bar must be at least channel, square tubing, or pipe, no thin wall material! Spreader bar must be behind seat.
8. You may weld, wire, or chain doors shut.
9. UNLIMITED # 9 wire use.
10. If inspection holes are not adequate in frame rails, we will drill a 3/4” hole approx 4” ahead of the strut on outside of the frame.
Please review the normal Modified car rules and apply all of those rules THAT CAN BE APPLIED.
You must have roll over protection for Safety!!!
2018 Mini Truck/Mini Van Rules
1. Any American or foreign made mini pick up, mini-van, compact SUV type vehicles permitted.
2. any 4 cylinder or 6 cylinder engine. (if it has a dp or mid plate, the firewall must be cut wide as the headers or engine block.)
4. Fuel tanks must be located in the bed of the trucks in the center of the bed directly behind cab. Fuel cells must be securely fastened and covered. Mini Vans must be mounted inside in a safe manner between the 2nd row doors. (NO FACTORY GAS TANKS)
5. Battery must be moved inside and mounted in a safe manner.
6. All trucks/Vans must have seat belts.
7. Doors, tailgates, and hatches must be secured by wire, chain, or welded shut no loose doors permitted. 6 on 6 off.
8. Box and cab mounts may be replaced with up to 1” bolts body mounts may be removed. The body bolts may go all the way through the frame and floor of truck/mini-van.
9. No trailer hitches or reinforcements of frame or body of any kind permitted.
10. May use any loaded factory car bumper or homemade bumper that is 6x6 box tube with no more than a 4” point over a 32” wide span. For mounting of car bumpers you may use factory bumper shocks and brackets or a 3” X 3” X 6” long box steel or likewise material.
11. Hoods must be in place and must have a 12” X 12” hole cut in hood over carburetor/engine
12. Hoods may be wired or bolted shut in 8 locations. Bolts can be up to 3/4” wire double strands of wire permitted all can go to frame or bumper see full-size rules.
13. No 4 wheel drives permitted 4 wheel drives must have front drive shaft removed.
14. Tires black and round
15. Beds must be welded to cab of trucks with a 3” strap directly behind doors.
16. 8 double strands of wire permitted on front and rear of truck all permitted to go to frame
17. Front suspension may be solid with 2x2 straps on a-arms or solid spacer on the strut/ welded strut. No homemade struts. All other suspension must remain factory. (tie rods, ball joints, rack and pinion etc)
18. A 4 point cage is highly recommended in drivers compartment for drivers safety. The cage in the cab may have 4 down legs from front and rear bar straight down to the top of frame. Also a gas tank protector is highly recommended. Protector may attach to frame but may not extend further than 24” from the front of the bed.
19. Trucks must set level no pulling down rear of the truck. No smashing of the bed sides will be permitted. You must use factory springs for make and model of truck. You may use chain on rear axle to secure ride height.
20. You may run aftermarket or homemade steering column, floor mount brake pedal, gas pedal, shifter, trans cooler, slider drive shaft, and carb conversions are ok.
TRUCK RULES
First 25 to pass inspection
A. Any 2-wheel drive pickup, SUV ½ ton to 1 ton trucks, must be an OEM PICKUP TRUCK frame. No industrial style, straight C channel style frames will be allowed, and no dually wheels will be allowed. 4 x 4 Trucks or SUVs are allowed, however, one driveshaft must be removed so that the 4 wheel drive option is disabled.
B. PROTECTORS
Distributor protectors allowed, NO radiator guards allowed (other than stock A.C. condenser), NO tranny protectors, or tranny case modifications. Aluminum or Steel replacement bell housings allowed in Truck class. Also, NO rear-end bracing!!! No add-on metal protruding from axle or wheel assembly past the studs or nuts.
No PROFANITY or OFFENSIVE material including numbers allowed on the truck!!! This is a family show!
C. Frame
1. All seams can be welded, single-pass only. No pinning, plating, filling, stuffing or painting; other than what is allowed in our rules. must be an OEM PICKUP TRUCK frame. No industrial style, straight C channel style frames will be allowed
D. Drivetrain:
1. Any motor or transmission in any vehicle
2. Basic engine cradles only with pulley protector allowed.
3. Skid plates allowed but can’t extend more than ½” from the pan they are protecting
4. Solid lower engine mounts are allowed
5. Slider shafts are allowed
6. No rear-ends bigger than a 3500 series pickup. If running a dually rear-end, you may only run one wheel per side. No rear-end bracing
E. Suspension
1. Front suspensions may be converted from coil spring to leaf spring design. Keep the leaf springs mounts minimal. Do not use them to strengthen the frame.
2. Tie-rods can be welded up but no additional metal can be added
3. You may add 2 clamps in front of the axle and 3 behind the axle. Max of 2 bolts per clamp. Bolts can’t be bigger than 3/8” and clamps can only be 2” wide. No duct tape or welding on the springs.
4. Aftermarket steering shafts are allowed
5. Solid front suspensions are allowed but do not use this to strengthen the frame or you will need to cut it in order to run.
F. Body
1. Remove all glass.
2. All body bolts can be replaced and bolted solid with no bolts bigger than 1” You may use 1” all-thread in the core support and run it up through the hood. 4” x 4” maximum body mount washer size
3. Trucks should remain looking like trucks. Bedside must remain in the stock position. You may fold bedsides over from the wheel wells back and tailgate may be folded over. If you choose to do so, you may use 2 pieces of all thread on the frame behind the wheel wells to hold bedsides down or may be attached to bed floor with #9 wire. Must be a gap to see inside. Suburbans may be ‘sedagoned’. If you choose to “tuck” a suburban or other long roof vehicle, you may only attach the roof to quarter panels with #9 wire. You may not weld the roof down. You must have a hole measuring 12 x 12 inches in the roof for inspection. 4. You may weld, wire, or chain doors shut. The tailgate may be wired, bolted, or welded shut. The tailgate may be lowered half the height of the tailgate. Cab may be welded to bed (please do).
4. In addition to the 2 pieces of all-thread in the core support, you will be allowed 4 more bolts to hold the hood down. Must be body to body only and the washers must not exceed 4” x 4”. It must be body to body only.
5. No more than 10-3/8” bolts to hold your outer hood skin to your inner hood skin.
6. Wire is to be #9 wire, unlimited amount (Use as much as you want because anyone can get it)
7. Truck must have a pipe, wire, or plate from the cowl to the roof to prevent the hood from entering Truck. You may add one to the front & side windows. 2 pieces in each window opening max. Max. Material is 4x 3/8”. This is for your safety, not to reinforce your truck! Driver’s Safety comes first.
8. NO REINFORCEMENT anywhere on the truck.
9. Five 3/8” bolts per wheel well. Hardware washers only.
10. If weight is added to the bed, it must be safe and non-reinforcing at the inspector’s discretion.
11. Roof - The truck must have the number on a roof sign on the roof of the truck a minimum of 24” tall or we will spray paint the number on the top of the truck. No PROFANITY or OFFENSIVE material including numbers allowed on the truck!!! This is a family show!
12. PRE-RAN TRUCKS may weld a plate/band-aid no bigger than 4”x 6” x 3/8” up to four (4) on a visible bend. There must be at least a 1-inch gap between plates. No angle iron or C-channel may be used. If rear of truck is wedged, up to discretion of inspection crew to have you modify it for safety purposes.
G. Driver Compartment
1. Move battery to inside the cab, tightly secure it, and cover it up. You may use 2 automotive batteries or 1 large marine battery.
2. MUST have a spreader bar behind the seat & must have driver door protection. Up to a 4” diameter Bar can be used
3. CAGE **REQUIRED Spreader bar must be at least channel, square tubing, or pipe, NO thin wall material! Truck must have REQUIRED door protection for driver. Minimum required 4 point cage. Front cage bar (dash bar) must be straight across front of truck and maintain the 6” gap to the distributor protector. You are allowed two down bars per side that may attach to the frame. Cage must go no further back than the front edge of the rear wheel humps. Down legs in rear must go to flat part of frame only. There may also be 1 rollover loop that can be attached to the bar behind the seat and go straight up over the exterior side of the roof. Cage may have 4 down legs, 3 spreader bars and 2 door bars.
4. No kickers or angled down tubes allowed. No down bars in front of dash bars.
5. Spreader bar must be at least channel, square tubing, or pipe, no thin wall material! Spreader bar must be behind seat. 3 spreader bars total are allowed.
H. Radiator
1. Any type automotive radiator may be used but MUST be mounted in stock position. At driver’s option, he/she may compete without a radiator, but MUST run on water in the engine block only. NO RESERVE TANKS ARE ALLOWED.
I. Gas Tank
1. Gas Tank must be mounted in bed behind cab, tightly secured, and covered. Plastic tanks must be in a solid metal containment box & covered or you will not be allowed to participate. No exceptions. (We strongly recommend metal tanks!) Absolutely NO stock fuel lines. Secure new fuel line properly inside of the driver’s compartment, not underneath truck. Keep away from exhaust. Gas tank protectors must be mounted to the cage or the floor pan, not both and is not to extend more than 36 inches from the front of the bed, but can be full width of bed. Gas tank protector if on cage must be a "halo" type bar only, no gap required between protector and cage if floor mounted and not connected to sheet metal in any way (bolted or welded). Electric fuel pumps must be double clamped and covered. NO electronic fuel pumps without a full cutoff switch.
J. Bumper
1. Maximum front bumper height is 28” from the ground to the BOTTOM of the bumper, pre-ran truck or fresh build. Back bumper minimum height is 20” from the ground to the BOTTOM of the bumper.
2. If you make a "homemade pointy" you have to have it where it is the same dimensions as factory Chrysler pointy. Judge’s decision on safety of homemade bumpers is final. No small wedges allowed one's that looks like a wood splitting wedge.
3. May weld up factory bumper brackets, or you may make homemade shocks but shocks can’t be bigger than 2” x 2” tubing. Your bumper brackets or shocks may not be welded, bolted, or modified to factory cross-member approx 10 inches behind the factory core support mount hole.
K. Tires
1. No solid Tires (Hyster tires, etc.) Tires MUST contain some air. No split rims.
Please review the normal Modified car rules and apply all of those rules THAT CAN BE APPLIED.
You must have roll over protection for Safety!!!
