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Post by hcwt25 on Jun 18, 2017 21:52:45 GMT -5
Am I missing it or is there bit a thread for leaf swap questions on 80s and up Ford's ? Looking for some basic info on it I'm building a 91 bubble town car for a limited weld show. I can leaf convert using 5 springs up to 3/8 thick with a 2" stagger on each end. Has to have a 1" arch and no more than four clamps per side. I know how to build the pack etc was just wondering what the best place to mount the front mount is? Tank protector can't touch sheet metal and springs must be 55" long. Bumper will be a 5x5 loaded tube on the inside of the trunk mounted ties into rear leaf mounts and trunk will be tucked to cover the bumper with 1" thread rod hiking bumper to the floor and then sucking.the lid down. Lid has to be 10" off trunk floor except for the tuck. Frame will be notched on the rear most side of the bumper for a fast fold in. Ride height will be about 16" top of rear frame. I was planning on placing front mount right under rear boxes? Any input on this or anyone know of a good main leaf about that length before I have one made?
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Post by 4sasquach on Jun 19, 2017 17:55:38 GMT -5
Under rear box is a usual spot.. Some people notch out the frame or run them in the trailing arm pocket..Not sure if you can do fords like that but gm's do.. 5 springs at 55 inches is a decent pack, at 3/8's.. But I wouldnt build the rear to hard.. Might just lever up on you.. Are you allowed to run them farther forward.? At least you'll have some frame and body go up before the springs and humps.. If the rear eyelet is nearer the bumper.. Jmo..
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Post by hcwt25 on Jun 20, 2017 0:39:38 GMT -5
Planning to mount in the front side of the rear boxes and grab the side of the frame I think that's as far forward as I'll get it
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Post by marked on Jun 20, 2017 13:29:32 GMT -5
I'd put the back shackles at the end of the hump and weld the front hanger where it falls to the inside of the frame solid. It should catch right where the hole is on top of frame and it'll help it from dumping. Let the back roll like it was coiled and pack in tight to where back shackles are. If you don't have to have working shackles and can use square tube to mount the rear will be nasty. Trust me it looks weird when done cause the leafs are so far under the car but works well.
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Post by klicky96 on Jun 20, 2017 19:48:54 GMT -5
I would use offset leafs and mount the rear at the rear of the hump. I wouldn't use shackles, just mount it directly to the frame. Suck the ass* down to where you want your ride height to be, and mount the springs solid on both ends. The tighter they are to the frame, the better they'll hold the frame. You don't want movement, you want them solid. You want to use the leafs as a kicker or as a hump plate. You could probably get away with a set of 20"/35" springs or similar. I'd go to the junkyard and start measuring. There's a chart online with various spring specs including weight, arch, offset, etc. I'll see if I can find it.
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Post by marked on Jun 20, 2017 22:38:32 GMT -5
Personally I prefer longer springs. The further under the car you can mount the spring the less area on frame you gotta worry about (think of it like plating under the back seat where they normally dump). I like them to mount almost to the center of the car with a tank protector. If you can get away with down bars from the back seat bar and start tying things together that's when it gets impressive.
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Post by hcwt25 on Jun 21, 2017 15:45:44 GMT -5
leafs will be hard mounted directly to the frame no shackles. mount will also be a boxed in setup grabbing sides bottom and top of the frame and closing in the eylets with a clamp on the first 2/3 springs and then the first clamp right behind them on each end. leafs will be a hand built pack from 3/8 strap and each leaf will have holes drilled and be plug welded to the leaf above it in several spots as well as the clamps. as for now my plan is to place the bumper in the trunk right above the leaf mounts and have my 1" thread rod holding the bumper and pan to the frame and the bottom nut being incorperated into the leaf mount. the trunk the rest of the way back would be notched about 10" in from the back then pre dent slightly and dimpled right behind the rear leaf mount/bumper.
As for the front side of the mount i am allowed down bars off the seat bar. so my intention up there was to run them down with my 8" end plates welded to the for and the bolt my leaf mount up threw the plate with 1" thread rod to hold the mount to the cage maybe even two spots per mount before boxing it in to hide the bolts witht he eyelet. then my down tubes would be placed over the bolts and gusseted to the plates. my leaf mount would of coarse also be tied into the side of the frame right there and depending on leaf lenght and seat position hopefully some where near a body mount. i am also allowed to pull all the body pucks and bolt solid so idealy my body bolt washer would be close enough to be welded to the down bar end plate.
Rear axle will be a 14bolt with the humps chained. should take a bit to move and even if it does with would hit the GTP about 3" up i think is what the rules specify. im hoping to have the rear set up well enought to accutally get some use out of it in the heats and save the front for the mains. anything else you guys would recomend before i start measuring and building?
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Post by 4sasquach on Jun 21, 2017 16:50:14 GMT -5
What you said about the rear^^^.. In my experience if you build a leaf car brick wall solid and dont plan on it moving then set it however you want height wise in the rear.. Seems if you have longer springs and a minimum number of them (with stagger) its needs to be higher off the bat.. So at least when the rear goes up it stays sort of level as it bends up.. Instead off ground pounding..
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Post by 4sasquach on Jun 21, 2017 16:53:54 GMT -5
Have you looked at it low and from the rear between the arm mount and backing plate.. I ran a old ford with all the control arms, plus leaf springs..They just kind of slid right in there.. Might not be the case with yours.. but i liked the more is better clause..
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Post by hcwt25 on Jun 21, 2017 19:21:44 GMT -5
That is an estimated rear height actual ride height will all be dependant of how the springs mount so I will set it up mount wise how I feel is best for the car and run it where it sits just assuming the near flat stack will keep it relatively low.
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Post by marked on Jun 21, 2017 20:07:18 GMT -5
Mine ran 12" at bottom of bumper without sucking it down. Still had all thread shocks but just snugged it where it sat. Should be a fun ride!
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Post by klicky96 on Jun 21, 2017 20:59:44 GMT -5
I definitely wouldn't run the leafs all the way to the end of the frame or even close. The rears of these cars can be tough by themselves. You don't want it to dump at the front spring mounts. You want the ass to roll and lack in. If you mout your springs too far back, you'll build them rails too hard and the crowd will watch your frame dump at the front spring mounts. You still want to have room back there for the frame to roll and pack in. That's why I wouldn't go any further than the body mount right behind the humps.
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Post by hcwt25 on Jun 21, 2017 21:45:41 GMT -5
Exactly rear mounts will be covering that hole right behind humps and then the rest goes forward to the down bars back is dimpled and.notched to fold I'm like a coiled car
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Post by derby2racer on Jun 24, 2017 6:05:05 GMT -5
Found a set of good heavy leafs that have about a 3 inch arch and are about 45 inches long. Its a stack of 5 but they are nice heavy leafs. Will these work real well?
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Post by klicky96 on Jun 24, 2017 9:44:52 GMT -5
As long as they are heavy. Id pull the ass down and make them flat.
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