bc
Heat Winner
Posts: 225
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Post by bc on Dec 1, 2016 9:02:39 GMT -5
2017 Midwest Smash Fest
Fillmore County Fair
Geneva, NE
Saturday, July 15th
2-Man Team Show: Team Show Notes: 1)FRESH Cars Only 2)Crash Fest Express Promotions Limited Weld Rules 3)Drivers must be @ least 18 years old
*NO ONE under the age of 18 will be allowed in the Pits
*30 Teams Note for the Teams: *Once Preregistration is officially open on January 10th, Teams that have run previously will have 2 weeks to make a decision, after that, it's fair game...
*24 Spots will be for Teams that have run the show before. First dibs will go to the Teams that ran last year (2016)After that, if there are still spots open, priority will be give based on how many years the Teams have supported the Demo (Note: If you had a Team in the show for 2016, you do get first dibs for 2 weeks beginning January 10th, BUT you had to have been in Geneva & ran that day. If a Team was signed up, but didn't show...they are not eligible. However, if that Team has run in the past, they can enter, but will be next in line after those who ran in 2016 make their decisions, as well as the New Teams)
*With what's about to be released on New Year's Eve, we want to give as many New Teams a shot to be a part of this show as possible...
*There will be 6 spots available for NEW Teams that have never run before (both Drivers have to be new to the Team Show)If more than 6 Teams preregister, there will be a live Lottery Drawing held (Preregistration will begin for New Teams as well on January 10th)
Example for Preregistration: *Let's say after January 24th (2 weeks after Preregistration opens)there are 20 Teams signed up who ran in 2016 or in previous years. That would leave 10 spots available. So in this example...that would allow 10 spots for New Teams...(I posted this example, because of a few inquiries we've received) Note: If anyone has any questions on any of the above regarding preregistration, please don't hesitate to call/text me (Chad)@ (402)759-2583
Preregistration: *Since it took a little longer than expected for the info to be posted (it will all be made really clear why on New Year's Eve)Preregistration won't begin until Tuesday, January 10th (envelopes post marked before then won't be accepted)
Entry Fee: $500/Team *Once checks are received, they will be cashed immediately & absolutely no refunds will be allowed (Note: If a Team's check bounces once deposited @ the bank, they will have 1 week to get the proper funds to me or that Team will not be allowed to run. We've dealt w/ this in the past & it won't be tolerated) *As long as you show up day of show, each Team will receive half($250)their entry fee back Special Note to Pay Attention To Regarding "Entry Fee": *IF all 30 Teams(60 cars)show up day of show...each Team will get their entire $500 Entry Fee back (checks will be mailed to Drivers the week after Demo)
Note for All Team Show Drivers That End Up Running: *Each Driver will receive a DVD of the show that will have many extras on it from "Wize Guys Media"
Note on Preregistration for New Teams: *For the New Teams that sign up & send a check. Your check will not be cashed until we know what we have for spots on January 24th. If we have a Bingo Lottery Drawing, because of more new Teams than spots available, none of those checks will be cashed until we have the Live Drawing. The Teams that don't get in will be able to "Void" their checks & they won't be cashed. We will plan on having a couple "Stand By" Teams after the show is full & we'll deal with those Teams checks if/when the time comes!
Checks can be made out to: "Fillmore County Ag Society" or "FCAS"
Mail Checks to: Chad Bumgarner 1405 Hwy 74 Strang, NE 68444
Note for ALL TEAMS that preregister: PLEASE have these items w/ your checks *Correct Spelling of first & last name for each Driver *Car number for each Driver *City & State you're from *Your Top 3 Color combo choices *Size of t-shirt you wear (each Team Show Driver will receive a t-shirt when they enter the Pits day of show, among several other goodies)
Officials: *Crash Fest Express Promotions For any questions on Rules, please contact "Matt Newcomb" @ (308)785-7300
ATTENTION: "Driver's Door Reinforcement" *Due to the level at which this show has gotten to, we strongly recommend & are going to require this year that you reinforce your Driver's Door with extra metal. Please refer to, Matt Newcomb's Rules on Driver's Door Reinforcement to be within the guidelines of the rules. Thank you...just trying to keep everyone safe
Other Team Show Notes: Format: 1)Will be 1 on 1 like last year & 12 minute Heats (15 Heats) Note for Heats: *From the 11th minute of the Heat on, if a car becomes disabled & is on the clock to be timed out, the heat will not end @ 12 minutes. The Heat will end @ the end of the minute duration in which that car is on the clock. Now, during that time frame, if the car that is on the clock gets their car moving/running again & makes an eligible hit on the other Team, then that Heat would be called "over" & both Teams would go to the B Main (If anyone has questions on this, feel free to contact Matt or myself & we'll explain. Otherwise, it will be discussed @ the Driver's Meeting day of show) Note for B Main: *Only ONE Team will advance to the A Main, but BOTH CARS will be allowed to run (All the money will be in A Main for 2017)
Other Info: 1)There will be a "Bone Stock Class" (Purse & Preregistration info for this class will be announced on Tuesday, January 24th) 2)Power Wheels will be a part of the show again 3)Possibly another "surprise" as well!!! (This is regarding another class we're looking @ adding...)
Additional Notes:
More details coming soon...
Stay tuned...
In the meantime, if there are any questions, comments, etc feel free to call/text me (Chad)@ (402)759-2583
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bc
Heat Winner
Posts: 225
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Post by bc on Dec 1, 2016 9:03:05 GMT -5
TEAM SHOW DRIVER LIST:
First 30 Teams in the Show:
Last Year's Teams/Past Teams:
Team Red/White/Blue: 4E Eric Christensen (Gothenburg, NE) 42 Isaac Christensen (Omaha, NE)
Team Black/White/Red Splatter: 22G Garrett Hafer (Milligan, NE) 22H Adam Hafer (Wahoo, NE)
Team Blue/Orange Splatter: 27A Aarik Naber (Waco, NE) 75S Dillon Steinacher (Exeter, NE)
Team Purple/Black: 1X Jacob Everts (Parkersburg, IA) 2 Dave Everts (Parkersburg, IA)
Team Purple/Silver: 124 Shawn Vrana (Abie, NE) 19 Eric Snitily (Crawford, NE)
Team Black/Army Green/Tan: 81 Doug Wissing (St. Libory, NE) 03 Nolan Horak (St. Libory, NE)
Team Blue/Silver: 61N Nathan Holtzen (Columbus, NE) XX John Racette (Oakley, KS)
Team Flat Black: 9 Grant Snyder (Superior, NE) 31 Parker Coffin (Shelby, NE)
Team Black/Blue: 92 Lyndon Branson (Hyannis, NE) 26 Dillon Kunkel (Le Mars, IA)
Team Blue/Black/Red: 69 1/2 Rick Pilakowski (Platte Center, NE) 6x Jesse Barber (Platte Center, NE)
Team Orange/Grey: 88 Kyle Gottula (Steinauer, NE) 32 Craig Borcher (Steinauer, NE)
Team Red/White: 66 Larry Steinbeck (McCook, NE) 86 Wil Steinbeck (McCook, NE)
Team Blue/Silver/Red: T21 Tyler Maas (Palmyra, NE) 1358 Brad Hulse (Firth, NE)
Team Black/Red: 58x Jesse Slizoski (Monroe, NE) 157x Josh Slizoski (Monroe, NE)
Team Black/Yellow/Red: 43J Josh Turner (Geneva, NE) 43S Shad Turner (Geneva, NE)
Team Army Green/Black: 825 Peyton Connelly (Monroe, NE) 91 Nathan Clausen (Danbury, IA)
Team Orange/Black: 51 Collin Demuth (York, NE) 6 Jason Abell (York, NE)
Team Lime Green/Black: 67 Jordan Volkmer (Schuyler, NE) 44 Andrew Lewis (Martell, NE)
Team Charcoal Grey: 18 Creighton Demuth (York, NE) 23 Jeremy Blake (Mapleton, IA)
Team NWO: 68 Kenny Rosno (Columbus, NE) 514 Jason Brodzinski (Menominee, MI)
Team Army Green: 33 Jason Nuttelman (Stromsburg, NE) 48 Travis Boden (Osceola, NE)
Team Black/Green: 64D Ryan Daugherty (Riverdale, NE) 3K Nolan Kegley (Kearney, NE)
Team Black/Grey: C-19 Clayton Olsen (Lyons, NE) L29 Dylan Lane (Lyons, NE)
Team Black/White: 51T Mike Tix (Hastings, MN) 80E Troy Elfering (Lakeville, MN)
New Teams in the First 30 (in the order they were drawn):
Team Light Blue/Black: 606 Jake Gould (Berthoud, CO) 822 JD Walters (Berthoud, CO)
Team Grey/Lime Green: 42 Troy Niemeyer (Bowling Green, MO) 34 Eric Yoder (Bowling Green, MO)
Team Black/Silver: 36 Chad Markley (Abilene, KS) x2c Don Santel (IL)
Team Purple: Tim Totty (Lebo, KS) 01 Levi Skillman (Naustrawn, KS)
Team Grey/Orange: T35 Terry Martensen (Monroe, NE) 77j Joey Martensen (Monroe, NE)
Team Pink/Black: x2x Gary Miller (La Junta, CO) 11 Nick Lewis (Pueblo, CO)
Teams for "Over Flow Heat" (in order they were drawn):
Team Grey/Blue: 39 Andy Hanson (Maple Lake, MN) 69 Kurtis Dittmer (Linn, KS)
Team Red/Silver: 100 Charles Keller (Cheyenne, WY) 119 Landon Winslow (Laramie, WY)
Team Green/Silver: 66 Mat Raymer (Burlington, KS) 20H Darrin Hall (Burlington, KS)
Team Black/Blue/Red: 27H Matt Hurt (Kenesaw, NE) 71K Mat Kouma (Bee, NE)
*****
Stand By Teams (in order they were drawn):
Team Black/Blue/Silver: 67S Scott Bauer (Phillips, NE) 67M Matt McClure (Phillips, NE)
Team Purple/Yellow: 80 Mike Flater (Strongsville, OH) 001 Dalton Haverkamp (Grundy Center, IA)
Team Brown: 11 David Earl (Stockton, KS) 29 Matt Martin (Stockton, KS)
Team Black/Yellow/Orange: 29JW Justin Wood (North Platte, NE) 69EP Justin Nitch (Lexington, NE)
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bc
Heat Winner
Posts: 225
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Post by bc on Dec 29, 2016 1:47:32 GMT -5
Big Announcement Coming on New Year's Eve
6pm central right here...
You won't want to miss this!!!!!
Stay tuned...
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bc
Heat Winner
Posts: 225
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Post by bc on Dec 30, 2016 11:32:52 GMT -5
Some info regarding Preregistration as well as a few other details have been added/updated in the original post above...
Just wanted to give everyone a heads up as we've received a few inquiries on a couple things the past couple days...
Check it out above & we hope it helps make everything a little more clear...
See you all tomorrow night/New Year's Eve @ 6pm central for the BIG ANNOUNCEMENT!!!!!
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Post by Vern N. 09 on Dec 30, 2016 22:08:55 GMT -5
Midwest Smashfest 2 man team show Rules:
2017 Geneva is a FRESH CARS ONLY SHOW:
We will be allowing fresh cars to be pre-plated with 2 plates per frame rail for this team show and only for this show. The 2017 Crash Fest Express repair plate rule in our 2017 rules will apply and again only 2 repair plates per frame rail starting out fresh.
11/1/2016 11:30 PM
Blue wording indicates new or revised wording for 2017:
Crash Fest Express Promotions 2017 Midwest Smashfest rules:
Disclaimer to car builders and drivers: IF IT DOES NOT SAY YOU CAN DO IT WITHIN THESE RULES, DO NOT DO IT. PLEASE CALL FIRST. ALL CARS FOUND TO BE ILLEGAL WILL NEED TO BE CORRECTED TO PASS OFFICIALS INSPECTION, CARS THAT DO NOT PASS INSPECTION WILL NOT RUN AND HAVE TO BE LOADED.
FULL SIZE CAR CLASS ONLY:
A. Any Car, Age or Model may be entered as long as it is not a Pickup, Truck, El Camino, Ranchero, Flower Car, Convertible, Van, SUV, Ambulance, Hearse, Limousine, Sedagon, pre 1974 Imperial car or pre 74 Imperial frame, 1970 or older Lincoln, Suicide Lincoln or 2003 or newer Ford. 98-02 Fords cars are allowed with very specific package tray conversion rules that must be met and explained below.
1. CAR PREPARATION A. All flammable material located in the interior of car such as the dash, head liner, seats, door panels, insulation and carpet must be removed.
B. All glass must be removed from the car including the headlights, side glass, front and rear glass, tail lights, and all broken glass must be removed.
C. The original fuel tank must be removed. A metal container or plastic fuel cell will need to be located in the interior of the car, the tank must be mounted in the back seat area (mounting the fuel cell up off the floor to the seat bar is highly recommended). Do not bolt the fuel cell to any frame or uni-body components, must be floor sheet metal tin only. If you choose to use a plastic container it must be a fuel cell, PLASTIC OR STEEL GAS CANS WILL NOT BE ALLOWED, IT MUST BE SAFE. No creative tanks to reinforce the car allowed, period. Plastic fuel cells must be protected in a steel container on all 4 sides except for the top side. All fuel cells must be covered to prevent the splashing of fuel in the car (rubber inner tube or other non-flammable material is highly recommended for a fuel cell cover). 8 gallons of gasoline fuel cell will be the maximum permitted size. The fuel cell must not leak. (No Exceptions). All fuel lines located in the interior of the car must be covered for your safety. (No Exceptions, Officials decision is final).
C2. GAS TANK PROTECTION: For your safety a gas tank protector will be allowed and must be mounted to the rear seat bar/halo bar only and the protector or fuel tank may not extend any closer than 4” from rear seat tin directly below and ahead of the original speaker deck location. Also no part of the protector can be any closer than 12” from the inside edge of inner door panel on either rear door or body sheet metal. Vertical bars extending straight upward towards the roof and not angled will be allowed but may not be any taller than 8” and must not be taller than the original speaker deck location. The GTP may surround the gas tank on the back and sides only. The GTP must not exceed 4”x4” square, round or c channel material. Do not pound the sheet metal from its stock location near this gas tank protector or the gas tank protector will have to be removed. Anything that does not fall within the above described gas tank protector rule will have to be changed.
C3. Pre-ran cars may not reposition their GTP, add to it or alter it any way from how it was on the car fresh or this will result in an automatic load. We will visually inspect to see if the pre-ran car has bent and if metal has been added to the GTP. Officials decision will be final.
D. All chrome, pot metal, door and window handles must be removed from the interior and exterior of car. A pad on the inside of driver’s door for protection is highly recommended.
E. The battery must be re-located to the inside passenger side on the front floor. THE BATTERY BOX MUST BE SECURELY FASTENED TO THE FLOOR TIN ONLY WITH BOLTS OR WELDING AND MUST BE IN A METAL CONTAINER, wood or plastic battery containers will not be allowed for the battery box. Battery must be covered with rubber inner tube or other non-flammable material. Do not bolt or weld box through the frame, cross member or body washer.
F. After market Transmission coolers may be used and must be mounted inside the car (transmission coolers must be safe) and must be securely bolted or welded to the floor tin or seat bar only. All transmissions coolers and lines in the interior of the car must be covered with non-flammable material. Do not bolt or weld cooler through the frame, around the frame, cross member or body washer. (Officials decision is final).
G. After market or homemade floor shifters may be used.
H. The engine cooling system (radiator) must remain in stock position and the heater core is to be disconnected or completely removed. One skin of Original body tin may be used to cover heater core access holes or rubber. No water barrels allowed or any other types of auxiliary engine cooling allowed.
I. A driver’s safety belt is mandatory and must be in working order. A 5-point harness and racing seat is allowed. For safety a ¼” plate under your driver’s seat is highly recommended to prevent axles and debris from entering the car body below driver’s seat and spearing the driver. This seat plate must be bolted to floor tin only, no welding and must not be bolted to frame, body washer or cross member and do not connect this plate to any other plates such as brake or gas pedal plates as they must be two separate pieces. A Fire suit or fire jacket and pants are required, a DOT approved helmet with face shield is also required and Safety glasses are highly recommended for eye protection. If you do not meet these requirements it will be at the organization’s discretion if you will be allowed to run without this required safety equipment.
J. Your factory upper A arms may be chained down on uppers A’s only, no bolts or welding straps from A arms to frames. Torsion bars may be tightened. Cars must have a bounce in the front and rear suspension. (NO SOLID SUSPENSION on the rear of cars)
K. Solid rubber or foam filled tires are allowed, along with valve stem protection. 1” oversized lug nuts are allowed. 8” weld in wheel centers max are allowed on 5 lug rears with no other rim reinforcements. These 8” wheel centers will be measured from the center of the hub/axle and must not exceed more than 4” inches in diameter from these either these locations. 8 lug rears may have a 9” weld in center. No bead lock, other rim reinforcement or full disc wheel centers will be allowed.
L. Must be able to open hood for tech inspection. Hood must remain in stock location and must be the stock hood that came with the car body type. Excess front fenders may be pre-bent and bolted to the radiator core support and inner fender in the front corners with a maximum of four 3/8” bolts per front fender. Excess front hood may be folded over if there is any excess hood to fold. Hood cut outs will be subject to a max of 12 3/8” bolts total per hood not per cut out.
M. Changing of rear ends is allowed but must follow these rules. Hybrid axles are allowed, pinion brake and axle savers are allowed. Weld in wheel centers are allowed on rims but may not exceed 8” in diameter. Rear ends may have bracing on the rear-end housing but may not strategically reinforce the frame/car or the bracing will be cut. Rear-end must be a single wheel rear end and 8 lug rear-ends will be allowed with a maximum sized 15” tire only.
N. Rear Factory upper and lower Control arms on coil spring cars may be boxed in and have minimal re-enforcing. You may lengthen or shorten the rear control arms to adjust rear-end pitch, minimal filler material allowed on these rear control arms. All control arms must start out as a stock factory upper and lower control arm for make, model and year of car origin you are running as nothing else will be tolerated. Rear-end mounts on leaf spring cars must remain in stock location but can be adjusted for rear-end pitch.
O. Front and rear wheel wells may be cut and bolted directly above the diameter of the tires with up to a maximum of 6 3/8” bolts in each wheel well on outside of car body only. FENDER TIN MAY NOT BE WELDED, 6 BOLTS ONLY.
P. Two loops of #9 wire behind rear axle housing extending from frame rail to frame rail will be allowed to be braided. Chain or cable will not be allowed. No other #9 wire will be allowed on fresh cars except in your window openings, door and trunk seams as explained in rule # 7B, 7E, 7F and 7G.
1A. FRAME & BODY RULES
A. No frame shaping, no Paint, undercoating, dirt, oil grease, tricks or anything will be allowed on frames. Don’t be surprised if you over spray your frame with paint if we won’t even take the time to look at your car and just load it. This goes for any fresh or PRE-RAN car. NO EXCEPTIONS AND OFFICIALS DECISION IS FINAL. B. Frame and car body must be STOCK other than what is specifically allowed in these rules: You will be allowed to weld a total of 12” of factory frame seams anywhere (over humps, ahead of a arms, or behind a arms) with a ½” wide weld bead maximum per frame rail. May only split this into two 6” long beads per frame rail. So use one 12” continuous bead or two 6” beads per rail and no other exceptions. NO OTHER FRAME SEAMS ALLOWED TO BE WELDED. The frame must be the frame that came with year of the car body. No frame or body alterations allowed other than what is allowed in these rules. Frame ahead of core support can be shortened but do not cut frame further back than the front side of your original core support body mount hole. We must be able to see the original mount hole left on frame. Do not move your core support from its original factory position or shorten your front clip. Clip must be the make to model year of car origin. Do not shorten the rear frame as this will not be allowed and will be an automatic load. No frame or body alterations allowed unless year to year, the exact year of the car body must match the exact year design of the car frame. EXAMPLE; 71, 72, and 73 Chevy must be a 71-73 Chevy frame and body, Y-FRAME Mopar must be Y-FRAME type of frame and body. Square body Ford car must be on a square body Ford 80’s frame. Bubble body Ford Body must be on a Bubble body Ford frame. Buick body to Buick frame, caddy body to caddy frame and etc. No other exception will be allowed. C. Frame tilting is allowed but must be frame tilted at fire wall body mount area only. If you choose to tilt the frame you do not get more than 12” of frame welding after you cut with a ½” wide weld bead maximum. If you cut, tilt and weld a frame no other frame seam welding allowed. If you choose to cold bend than the 12” of seam welding may be used elsewhere. Cold bend or tilt in one location per frame rail only. Do not play games with this rule or you will be loaded, period. OFFICIALS DECISION IS FINAL.
D. Absolutely no re-stubbing of frames front, back or middle. The entire car frame must be of its original stock origin for the year make and model of your car you are running. No other exceptions. E. 98-02 Ford cars, may convert package tray. May only take a factory 1979-1997 Ford car package tray to replace the 98-02 tray for your upper trailing arm mounts. You must leave a 2” wide strip of the original 98-02 factory tray on the frame over the entire distance of the frame hump as it was from the factory. Do not re-weld this original strip to the frame. The width of this strip will be measured from the inside edge of the frame rail hump area towards the spring bucket. May only weld the converted tray to this 2” existing tray with no filler material and not to the frame. May only overlap the new tray a 1/2” over the existing tray, one pass of weld bead 1/4” bead max. The lower trailing arm frame mounts may only be cut off a 1979-1997 Ford car and re-welded back on to the frame in the original factory location and manner. This must be ¼” weld bead max and one pass, with no filler material allowed. Absolutely no homemade-mounts. Original Watts brackets must be cut from the frame, do not grind or paint where you have cut the original lower brackets, we must be able to see where you cut them off. No other rear package tray conversions will be excepted. No funny business on this as nothing else will be tolerated.
F. No welding of or bolting non factory or factory gussets or frame components to the frame that did not exist as original OEM.
G. Do not add body mounts to the frame that did not exist from the factory (except the speaker deck provisional body isolator as explained below in rule 4D (2 speaker deck bolts only).
H. Body creasing is allowed. Do not weld, wire, bolt or screw the body crease and no other exceptions. I. Trunks and tail gates on fresh cars and wagons may either be tucked with the 50/50 rule or wedged as explained below but not both. 50% of lid has to remain in stock location if you tuck. The tuck will be measured from the front most seam to the first rear seam to determine the 50/50 rule. If you wedge your trunk lid it may be beat down. Nothing that is torn away from stock location can be welded or bolted back. A 12" inspection hole will have to be cut in the top of trunk lid for inspection and rear quarters must remain in 100% stock location if you choose a wedge. Wedged sedans and hard tops must have nothing bolted or welded from the deck lid to the floor pan or frame other than your 2 sticks of all thread. No wedging wagons and No Sedagons either!
2. ENGINES & TRANSMISSIONS A. Any V8, V6 or straight 6-cylinder engine allowed in any car as stated allowed above and must be mounted in stock location. The stock engine mounts may only be welded to the OEM engine cross member located directly below the crankshaft pulley or engine oil pan. You may weld up to a 2" wide strap by 6 inches long and up to 1/4” thick above rubber part of motor mount on motor down to engine cross member not frame to make them solid. The engine may also be chained loosely to the frame for a secondary mount to help hold the motor in place. This chain may have one link welded to top side of frame only or looped once around the frame and bolted only with no added metal or plate to mount the chain to the frame (the chain links may not be welded together to create a kicker bar). This secondary chain may only be mounted in four locations from the engine to the frame. No other means of mounting an engine will be allowed (Officials decision is final). Pulley protectors will be allowed but may not reinforce the car’s frame in any manner. Do not weld pulley protector to sway bar or cross member. Official’s decision of pulley protector will be final. Do not alter the location of your sway bar or change your sway bar as it must be the bar that came with the make, model and year of car origin that you are running.
B. Engine cradles may be mounted to an engine and must not have any form of distributor protector on the cradle or engine. Engine cradles may be bolted with two ¾” bolts maximum to the OEM cross member or the engine cradle may be welded at the OEM engine cross member directly below the crankshaft pulley (DO NOT WELD CRADLE TO THE FRAME RAILS).
C. Mid plates will be allowed but the mid plate must not be any taller than 3” from the contour of your original transmission bell housing and engine block bolts at the back of the engine. Absolutely no kickers will be allowed.
D. After market starters, ignition, air cleaners, fans, headers and radiators are allowed. Home-made radiators or any form of radiator protector will not be allowed. Fuel lines need to be protected and mounted in a safe location and any car running an electric fuel pump must have an on/off switch wire to it.
E. Transmissions must be mounted in the stock location. Aluminum Ultra-bell transmission bell housings allowed as long as it does not have brackets connecting to the engine or frame in any location. No homemade aluminum ultra-bells as it must be a stock JW and etc. aftermarket purchased aluminum ultra-bell only. Transmission tail shaft may be secured with #9 wire, chain, bolts or ratchet straps only looped or bolted around the tail shaft to the cross member only. Transmission cross member either has to be the stock OEM cross member that came with the year, make and model of car or it can be replaced with a maximum of a 2”x2”x1/4” cross member. If the non-factory cross member is used it must be located in the OEM factory position of the year, make and model of car. Also if the non-factory cross member is used you must have a ½” pilot hole in the bottom side of the 2x2 on each side of the tranny for us to gauge thickness. If there is not a pilot hole prior to inspection, we will cut up to a 1” hole at the inspection trailer with our torch. One or the other of the above cross member choices may be used not both. One of the above choice of cross members may be mounted to a single piece of angle iron that is to be welded to the frame in the OEM factory cross member mounting location consisting of a 4” long max and 2”x2”x1/4” angle iron welded to the frame per side. One angle iron cross member mount only per frame rail may be used and must meet above specs and must not be welded to the frame any closer than 6” from the center of the firewall body mount hole measured rearward.
J. No steel bells or transmission protection braces allowed. No skid plates allowed, if you show up with a skid plate you came to the wrong show and will be loaded. However, if you would like to take your original tranny pan off and weld a 1/8” thick piece of flat metal to the bottom only to prevent the spearing of the pan from debris on the track this will be allowed only if it conforms to the bottom side of the pan and does not exceed the perimeter of the OEM pan. Metal added to the vertical surfaces of the pan will not be tolerated. No homemade tranny pans and NO OTHER EXCEPTIONS WILL BE ALLOWED FOR THIS.
H. You are allowed two 4” long by 2” wide by 2” tall by 1/4” thick angle irons per frame rail on top side of frame in the engine compartment with the angle facing up. This angle iron may be used to mount your 4 engine safety chains to and has to be located with one ahead of the a-arm and one behind the a-arm per frame rail and not to exceed 4” behind the engine block (measured from the rear of the heads). The angle iron ahead of the engine block may be mounted anywhere on the top side of the frame with the angle up between the A Arm and radiator core support. This angle has to be mounted ahead or behind the engine block and not anywhere in between and must look like and L.
4. BODY MOUNTS MUST BE IN CARS A. The front two radiator mounts may be removed and have up to 1” maximum all-thread installed through the frame along each side of the radiator core support to replace these mounts.
B. You must have at least the factory space at the minimum between frame and radiator support (you may remove the factory spacer and replace with a solid spacer but the spacer must be the factory width), radiator support cannot be pulled down contacting the frame without a spacer and no welding radiator support to the frame. Tilted cars will naturally have a taller than factory core support spacer and a max of 2 ½” in diameter x ¼” thick square or round spacer may be used. May only weld this spacer to the top side of the frame and must not be welded to the core support or vertical edges of the frame.
C. Two mounts in rear trunk lid or wagon can be installed with up to 1” all-thread maximum size allowed. These two trunk lid mounts or wagon all thread may go down through the frame and be bolted only. Do not weld these all thread to the frame.
D. For safety all other body mount bolts may be changed with up to 5/8” maximum size bolts and may not go all the way through the frame, just bolted to the factory location inside the frame. These bolts may only replace the original factory bolts. Do not weld body bolts to the frame, body or spacer. Don’t be surprised if we ask you to loosen body bolts to ensure they are not welded to the frame. No adding of body bolts where there were not bolts before, except for 2 extra bolts in the speaker deck above the humps of rear frame rails. These 2 additional bolts may only go through the shock tower area of the frame and car body sheet metal where from the factory on most cars there was only a body isolator but not a body bolt.
E. The body spacers must be at least factory thickness, if original spacer is not useable a ½” minimum thick body spacer that is 2 ½” in diameter max may be used only. Rubber hockey pucks, washers and etc. are all ok. (Welding body spacers to frame and/or body is not allowed).
F. The only bolts allowed to go through the frame completely are the two 1” all thread at the radiator core support and the two 1” all thread going through the trunk lid or wagon roof in the choice of 2 of the back four factory body mount holes in frame.
G. 5” square or round maximum sized washers allowed to the hold body mounts to the interior floor. 5” square or round washer max for all thread hood bolts and trunk lid and wagon all thread bolts as well. Do not weld these body washers to the floor tin, frame or mount any interior brackets to these body washers.
5. DRIVERS DOOR & WINDOW NET A. A driver’s door window net is allowed for safety (this is optional and a steel window net is highly recommended but not required). The window safety net may only cover the driver’s door window area. This window net must be sheet metal to sheet metal only connecting to the top of the window on the door and the edge of the roof. B. The driver’s door seams may be completely welded shut for safety on the exterior seams and may not extend more than 6” past driver’s door seam front and back of the door. 4” wide flat strap or ½” rod is the maximum sized allowed for welding driver’s door seams. Sedan cars may weld the driver’s door window bracket to the post/pillar and roof. (Officials decision for safety of the door is final, it must be safe)
6. SAFETY BARS INSIDE CARS A. 1 bar across dash and 1 behind the driver’s seat securely welded or bolted in place on the ends of dash and seat bar only and extending from door post to door post is required. The dash bar must be 6” from the back most part of the engine. Also must be located 6” above the transmission tunnel. Do not connect the dash bar to the front window safety straps/bars or fire wall. Dash bar may not make contact with the back of the motor or you will be disqualified. Please do not weld the firewall to the dash bar. The rear seat bar should be located directly behind the driver’s seat and welded to the door post no further back than 5” ahead of rear body mount on full frame cars measured from the center of this body bolt. (DO NOT WELD SEAT BAR FURTHER BACK THAN WHAT IS EXPLAINED ABOVE, OFFICIALS DECISION IS FINAL). These door bars and dash/seat safety bars must be 2” x 2” x ¼” thick square or 2 ½” x ¼” thick round minimum. If you do not use square or round for door bars than you will be allowed to use a minimum of 6” C channel by ¼” thick and a max of 8” by 3/8” thick. These bars may be up to 6” square or round maximum size and must have steel plates welded on the ends of bars to prevent spearing through the door tin. These steel plates may be no larger than 8” square or round on the end of the safety bars. All cage material may only be mounted in the interior of the car, not inside the door or body structure with the exception of the driver’s side. The driver’s door bar only may be mounted inside the door structure to allow more room for the driver and door bar.
B. Additional bars connecting the seat bar to the dash bar along the interior of front driver’s and passenger door are required to be welded in. These door bars must be securely welded in place for safety. You may also weld a single bar from the front side of your seat bar in the center of the car straight forward to the back side of your dash bar and this bar may not be any closer than 6” from the tranny tunnel. This is for your safety and it must be safe.
C. Halo bars are required to extend over the roof or directly under the interior of roof and must be securely welded or bolted to the rear seat bar in a safe manner. Halo bars must extend straight up vertically and may not be angled towards the front or rear. Connecting the halo bars to roof of car directly above the seat bar with up to 6 fasteners maximum that do not extend more than 4” away from either side of the halo bar is highly recommended for safety. Halo bars can be welded down below the seat bar to the top side of frame and no closer than 5” from the center of the back seat body mount on 4 door full frame cars (will be measured straight back from the halo not at an angle) only and must be no further than 6” from rear door jam on 2 door cars.
D. 4 door Mopar cars will not be able to weld their halo bar to the unibody frame as this moves the seat/halo bar too far back. However, 4 door mopar or unibody cars may weld their halo bar to the back seat foot pan floor tin only and ahead of the front most part of the unibody frame. You must have a halo bar deemed safe by the official’s decision and it must fall within these rules or you will not run.
E. No other down bars, chain, wire or cable will be allowed to be looped, bolted or welded to the frame form the cage or any other component. One down bar no closer than 6” behind inner door seam on driver’s side and passenger side to floor tin only may be welded. Must only be max of 2”x2”x1/4” and a maximum of a 4”x4”x1/4” base plate. Just the halo as explained above can be welded to the frame.
7. DOOR FASTENERS 1. Drivers doors can be welded inside and outside seams for safety and may also have outside door brace on the door skin. Outside door brace must be flat steel only and must conform to the shape of the door skin. This door brace may be welded or bolted to the driver door skin (welding is highly recommended). This door brace may not be more than 1/4” thick and must not extend more than 6" ahead or behind door seams max. (No grader blades, round pipe, square tubing or C channel allowed for outside door brace it must be flat metal only.)
A. Drivers door may be welded as explained above and all other doors may have 6” welded on and skip 6” per door seam and window bracket or as explained below. B. Fasteners can be up to 6” long x 4” wide x 1/8” thick flat strap maximum welded per door seam and skip 6” or 1 loop of chain, 1 bolt or 2 loops of #9 wire in two locations per seam. If you choose the flat strap welding method examples would be: weld 6” and skip 6” and start again with welding 6” and skipping 6” until you are finished. Any one of these methods can be used as a door seam fastener. C. No extra bolts inside doors. D. Chains or fasteners must be individual, this means no cross chain or wire in an X pattern, it must be looped only. E. Chain or double loop of #9 wire may go around the frame and bottom door seam to secure the bottom door seams (bolts are not allowed through the frames). F. One loop of #9 wire may be braided in two locations per full size side window openings only. Do not run this wire in the front windshield, rear windshield or in the windows that are located in the C Pillars on sedans or hard tops. This wire must be looped through the top of roof sheet metal and the top of door sheet metal only and must run vertically and may not be crossed, X’d or connected to one another in any way shape or form. Sheet metal to sheet metal only and no other exceptions will be allowed. G. Or the top side of door openings for windows may be hammered down and beat shut but only weld 6” per window opening of weld bead only or wire these shut with the braded #9 wire allowed to be running vertically to the roof in two locations per window but not both.
8. HOOD & HOOD FASTENERS (8 total) A. Stock hood hinges do not count as 2 fasteners. B. Front all-thread 1” maximum may go through the frame and hood along radiator core support on each side and is counted as a two fasteners. C. The other 6 hood hold down bolts must be sheet metal to sheet metal only and a minimum size of 3/4" all-thread only. You may use a 5”x5”x1/4” plate welded in the front corners of core support and fire wall corners under the hood to thread your hood bolts too. Or a 3”x12”x1/4” strap in the corners to thread your hood bolts to. Bolt may only be welded vertically to this plate for a more secure hood bolt mount. This was originally intended for cars that did not have inner fenders, or only had plastic inner fenders and now all cars may do this. D. Plates may be used as washers on the top side of the hood for hood bolt down bolts. The maximum size of hood washer or plate is 6”x6” on all eight hood hold down bolts. E. You may weld a 5” long piece of 3”x3”x1/4” thick angle iron to the hood and fender in place of all thread. These angle irons must be welded the top side of hood and fender only. These two pieces of angle iron may be bolted shut with a maximum of one 3/4” bolt per angle iron bracket and this method counts as one hood fastener. You may use 6 angle iron mounts, stock hinges and two all thread at radiator support (8 fasteners total allowed) or 8 all thread and stock hinges with not angle iron (8 fasteners total as well). Use any of the above explained hood fastener methods but 8 is the maximum allowed per hood. F. IF YOU CHOOSE THE ANGLE IRON METHOD TO HOLD HOOD SHUT YOU MAY NOT USE A 5” PLATE TOO, JUST ANGLE IRON.
9. TRUNK FASTENERS A. Two 1" maximum size all-thread may go through trunk lid or wagon roof and frame. Maximum size of trunk/roof all-thread washer or plate is 6”x6”. B. You may weld 6” of seam with flat strap and skip 6” just like explained on the doors and may only be sheet metal to sheet metal on your trunk seam. Or 1 loop of chain, 1 bolt or 2 loops of #9 wire in two locations per seam C. Wagon tailgates may be welded shut in the same manner of 6” welded and skip 6” per wagon tail gate seam otherwise must be welded, wired, chained or bolted sheet metal to sheet metal only in 4 wagon seam locations only. D. Nothing can be connected from the trunk lid or wagon tail gate to the bumper. E. Decking may not be welded or bolted solid. Must be mounted loosely. Officials decision is final!
10. ALL BUMPERS AND BUMPERS BRACKETS A. Any non-loaded and non-homemade OEM car bumper is allowed on any car. Front bumpers are allowed on rear and rear bumpers on front of cars. Front bumper brackets may only be used on front of car and rear bumper brackets may only be used on rear of car. Brackets must be in complete stock form and may only be in their OEM stock location. This includes OEM shocks that were mounted in the frame or outside of the frame with no alterations. Bumpers can be welded to brackets and the bracket can be welded to the frame. It must be the bracket that came with either the car or the bracket that came with the bumper and not both. No cutting of brackets or butt welding brackets to the frame to reach 10” of welding or to cover more area. No stretching brackets out and don’t skip a section of welding to strategically reinforce the frame. The bracket must be one continuous piece of bracket. The bracket may only be welded 10” continuously to one exterior side of frame on top and bottom side of the bracket measured from the back side of the front bumper or front edge of the frame towards the A-arm. In addition to this stock factory bracket you get one 4”x10”x1/4” bumper bracket welded with the same rule as explained above to any of the other 3 exterior surfaces of the frame.
You may weld 2 brackets in the same manner to the frame if you are not using factory bumper brackets, shocks and etc. If you weld a factory bracket on the frame than you only get one aftermarket bumper strap added to the frame in addition to the factory OEM bracket. Welding has to be 10” of continuous welding to the frame and bracket only, so do not skip and expect us to count it as 10”. Bumper brackets may be factory bolted but bolts may not go all the way through the frame from frame rail to frame rail (another words no pinning). If a factory bumper bracket exceeds 10” in length DO NOT WELD FURTHER THAN 10” as explained above. Welding the bumper directly to the frame is allowed along with the above explained usage of bumper brackets and bumper bracket strap. B. Bumper chrome may be beat down and welded to the backing of the bumper to help preserve the bumpers life. One layer of excess bumper chrome may be welded to bumpers to cover vent and blinker holes. We need to see in bumpers so leave us an area to see in so we don’t have to make you cut a hole for inspection. We do not want loaded bumpers in this class.
C. No homemade bumpers. Some bumpers will need repairs after being bent from use and straightened out. If and only if we see the need for the repairs, we will allow a 2” wide strap by ¼” thick to be used as a repair on the exterior of the bumper. This will only be allowed on the top, bottom or rear side of the bumper and I must see a photo of this needed repair. No repair strap will be allowed on the front side of the bumper. D. Rear bumpers and factory bumper brackets may also be welded to the rear frame in the OEM mounting location, do not exceed 10” as explained above. E. All trailer hitch and towing devices must be removed from cars including the brackets and other material that held the hitch in place. F. No loaded bumpers allowed. G. Do not weld the bumper to the body on fresh or pre-ran cars.
11. LEAF SPRING CARS A. Leaf springs must be in original OEM stock springs and location as mounted to the housing and the car. 6 spring clamps per side. These leaf spring clamps may be up to 3” wide flat strap or angle iron by 1/4” thick and up to 3 ahead of the axle and 3 behind the axle. B. No wrapping springs with tape, wire, etc.11/4/2015 C. Some cars came with 9 leafs others came with 7 leaf springs and many only came with 5. Seven leafs is the maximum number allowed for this class. All leaf springs must be stock car OEM springs for the year, make and model of the car you built. You can add leaf springs to the stack to get to 7 and these additional leaf springs must stager at least two inches shorter than the leaf directly above it for a total of 7 leaf springs. No leaf springs may be mounted on top of main leaf. You must use the original shackles for the main leaf. You may change your leaf spring mounts at rear end to not exceed 12” in length on each leaf pack and must be re-welded in the stock location. D. If your car came with more than 7 leafs it will have to be changed to a maximum of 7 total as explained above. No Exceptions! E. Coil spring cars are not permitted to convert to leaf springs. F. Car must have a moving suspension. No solid suspension allowed.
12. REAR COIL SPRINGS A. May be fastened on each end (wire, chain and hose clamps only). No all thread. B. Coil springs may be doubled with rear coil OEM springs only for that year, make, and model of car. C. Rear coil spring mounts may exceed no higher than 6” vertically from the rear end to help the spring stay in the spring pocket. D. Car must have a moving suspension. No solid suspension allowed.
13. REAR SHOCKS A. Must be OEM car shocks, not truck. Shocks must be mounted in stock location. You may also use chain up to 3/8” maximum size from the shock tower to the rear end and the chain may be looped and bolted one time around the rear end housing. This chain has to be mounted in the original stock shock location or as close to where the shock is mounted to the rear-end as possible. This chain cannot be looped around the frame and may only be bolted to the shock tower/package tray near the original location of the shock. This chain is designed to help in the event the shock breaks or if there is no shock. No all thread for shocks and there must be a rear bounce. No solid rear suspension allowed (OFFICIALS DECISION IS FINAL). B. If shocks are to be used they must be OEM car type shocks that would have come with the year make and model of the car. Home-made shocks or truck shocks will not be allowed. No all thread or any other form of shock.
14. TIRES AND WHEELS A. Wheels may have valve stem protectors and oversized lug nuts are allowed. B. TIRES ARE UNLIMITED- any ply, meaning fork lift, tractor tire, skid steer tire and double side wall are all ok. C. 15" tires maximum. D. All wheel weights must be removed from the rims before running. Weld in wheel centers are allowed on rims but may not exceed 8” in total diameter. Solid rubber or foam filled tires are allowed, along with valve stem protection. 1” oversized lug nuts are allowed. 8” weld in wheel centers max are allowed on 5 lug rears and 9” on 8 lug with no other rim reinforcements. These 8” wheel centers will be measured from the center of the hub/axle and must not exceed more than 4” inches in diameter from these either these locations. No bead lock or full disc wheel centers will be allowed.
14.B STEERING COMPONENTS:
1. Stock steering components such as tie rods, A arms, spindles, rotors, spindle brackets and ball joints will need to remain stock of the OEM make of car origin to match your car. 2. Stock Tie rods may be welded in the adjustable sleeve area with weld bead only and no biller material. 3. After market steering columns will be allowed to be used. 4. Upper A arms may have a chain looped over the top side on coil spring cars only. This chain must not exceed 12” in length and or ½” thickness. This chain may have only one full link welded to the frame and upper A Arm on each side of upper A Arm front and back. If you would like to split this chain into two 6” long pieces so you have one for the front and back of A arm this will be allowed as long as only one chain link is welded to the A arm and frame on front and back side. Do not cut link, stretch it and weld it to gain more welding to frame or A arm.
15. ALL CARS MUST HAVE ROOFTOP NUMBERS A. One 12"x12" roof sign with your driver number is mandatory; must be securely fastened to top of car (you may cut a 12” hole in the roof and bend it up to use for a roof sign but must be behind the halo bar). If we see that your roof sign has been strategically placed or manufactured to reinforce the car you will be asked to remove it. Official’s decision is final.
16. WINDSHIELD BARS (2 Bars/Straps) A. For your safety these bars are required to prevent the car hood from entering the interior of the car. These two bars must be either welded or bolted from the top of the roof down to the fire wall in the front windshield opening and may not make contact with the dash bar or the motor (sheet metal to sheet metal only). These Bars/Straps may not exceed 4” strap or 2” round or square. Do not weld these bars to the dash bar.
17. CARS MUST BE STOCK OTHER THAN WHAT WAS REGULATED AS ABOVE AND SPECIFICALLY ALLOWED BELOW: A. Any aftermarket drive shaft will be allowed as long as it does not strategically re-enforce the car (Officials decision will be final, no exceptions). B. After market brakes will be allowed as long as the brakes do not strategically re-enforce the car (Officials decision will be final, no exceptions).
18. FRAME REPAIRS
A. You will be allowed to repair frames on used cars that have previously ran in demo action and frames that have clearly suffered frame damage. The frame must have clear visible damage to the official before it will be allowed to run with any repair plates welded to the frame. You may use a maximum of four 1/8” thick plates with a 1” inspection hole centered per frame repair plate and the plate must not be more than 6” long by 5” tall. Four plates per frame rail are the maximum and 8 per car maximum. Do not weld the 1” inspection hole shut and you may only weld the 4 outer edges of the repair plate. NO PLUG WELDED REPAIR PLATES. You may not have 5 on one side of frame 3 on the other. 4 per frame rail total. No creasing or shaping repair plates, must be a flat plate. However, it may catch more than one surface of the frame. No doubling of repair plate. (OFFICIALS DECISION IS FINAL, NO EXCEPTIONS). B. Do not weld the one-inch inspection hole in the center of the repair plate. You may only weld the outside four edges of this repair plate. NO PLUG WELDED REPAIR PLATES. C. No repair plates on fresh cars unless allowed for a specific show. D. #9 wire as a repair will be allowed on pre-ran cars only. Do not over kill your use of wire or it will be cut, it must be a legitimate need for its use in the officials’ eyes and mind. E. Body tin repair on pre-ran cars, must use OEM body tin to weld over tears and cannot overlap door seams and etc. We must have a picture of the body tin you need to repair first. F. Rust repairs: You must call first whether it’s a body or frame rust repair. We need to see it to believe it and if approved we will explain specifically how it can be repaired. No call on this will force you to cut the repair off.
ALL JUDGES DECISIONS ARE FINAL MEANING: IF YOU OR YOUR PIT CREW WANT TO CHOOSE TO ARGUE WITH ANY OF THE JUDGES BEFORE, DURING OR AFTER THE DERBY YOU WILL BE DISQUALIFIED AND POSSIBLY ESCORTED OUT OF THE EVENT. THIS IS A FAMILY EVENT AND YOU MUST BE RESPECTFUL AT ALL TIMES.
Disclaimer to car builders and drivers: IF IT DOES NOT SAY YOU CAN DO IT WITHIN THESE RULES, DO NOT DO IT. ALL CARS FOUND TO BE ILLEGAL WILL NEED TO BE CORRECTED TO PASS OFFICIALS INSPECTION, CARS THAT DO NOT PASS INSPECTION WILL NOT RUN AND HAVE TO BE LOADED.
If you are in doubt, please call before you build
Matt “Vern” Newcomb Crash Fest Express Promotions Eustis, NE 308-785-7300
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bc
Heat Winner
Posts: 225
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Post by bc on Dec 31, 2016 19:09:38 GMT -5
Happy New Year my friends!!! Check out the original post above as the "Big Announcement" has been posted Be safe out there tonight!!! Even more exciting info coming soon... Stay tuned...
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bc
Heat Winner
Posts: 225
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Post by bc on Jan 1, 2017 20:24:36 GMT -5
ATTENTION to Those Interested in Entering the Team Show: *Preregistration begins for EVERYONE on Tuesday, January 10th! Any envelopes that are post marked BEFORE this date will be invalid & that Entrant will be asked to submit another entry! This has to be kept fair for all involved!
We've received several inquiries on a couple different topics the past couple days & I'll be posting more info later tonight to help clarify things...
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bc
Heat Winner
Posts: 225
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Post by bc on Jan 1, 2017 23:34:15 GMT -5
Specific Notes for EVERYONE Involved: *Any additions/corrections/clarifications made will be finalized by 6pm central on Monday, January 9th, before Preregistration begins for EVERYONE on Tuesday, January 10th
*Anything after January 9th that needs clarification &/or changed won't be brought up or discussed until the Driver's Meeting day of show...that way all Driver's involved will hear what's going on & have a say in anything that needs to be discussed! A decision was made on the fly during the show this past year that wasn't handled properly & we can promise it won't happen again! We all make mistakes & being a Promoter or Head Official for a show of this magnitude isn't always easy! This is why we always encourage feedback...good or bad! Every single one of you reading this helps contribute!
*We want to continue working on making the "Midwest Smash Fest" one of the best shows in the country! This only happens if we all work together! Will it always be easy & embraced by everyone? We all know that answer, especially when there's this much $$$ on the table!
*Absolutely NO FIGHTING in the Pits!!! There was none this past year & even though we all know tensions get real high & tempers flare up, please respect the sport as well as everyone around you. We love the support from all over the country & none of this needs to happen! IF there is a fight regarding a Driver or from the Pit help, whichever Team that Driver or Pit person is tied to will be asked to leave & they'll be permanently banned from running the show again! Please pay attention to this & pass the word around
Some answers/clarifications to comments/questions received: 1)Will you consider adding more Teams with all the interest around the country? Answer: *Everything will ALWAYS be taken under consideration. However, with this being a 1 day show @ a County Fair, 30 Teams for the Team Show is about the max we can go with for right now to not only allow the Officials plenty of time to inspect the cars, but also to make sure the Demo doesn't last until midnight or later. Many scenarios have been & will continue to be discussed regarding future plans, including a 2 day show, potentially 50 Teams in 2018, changing which Teams get first dibs to allow for many New Teams to have a shot, etc. I don't want this to confuse anyone, but please know we're considering many different things to make the show better as it continues to evolve
2)When will checks be cashed & if a Team doesn't get in via the Lottery Drawing, will they receive a refund? (Some of this has already been discussed, but I don't mind posting the info again so everyone has a good idea of what's going on) Answer: *No checks will be cashed until after January 24th. If a New Team doesn't get in the show via the Lottery Drawing, their checks will be "Voided" & tore up, so they don't have to worry about them being cashed or us mailing their checks back
3)Will there be $$$ added to the B Main like last year?: Answer: *For 2017, the only way any $$$ will be added to the B Main is if there's 1 or more Heats that go past the 12 minute time limit, where both Teams would then go to the B Main for a chance to get back to the A Main! For example: *Let's say there's 2 Heats that go past the time limit, sending those Teams to the B Main. That would take 2 places that pay from the A Main. The money from 15th & 16th place would then go to the 2nd & 3rd Place Team in the B Main, because the winner of the B Main advances BOTH cars to the A Main!
4)Why won't more Teams be taken from the B Main: Answer: *We have thought this out & from the very beginning, over 4 years ago when we first started promoting this show, I've always wanted to see & find out who THE BEST Driver/Team was by the end of the night! I can't stand stick breaking/deal making among several Teams & with us up against a certain time limit with it being a 1 day show, this is how it will be for 2017 (There are changes being discussed for the future regarding this, especially if/when we go to more Teams)
I'll be posting more answers to other comments/questions between now & January 10th when Preregistration opens...
*****
Info Regarding Preregistration for Teams that ran in 2016: *To guarantee a spot in the show, you must sign up with the same Driver you showed up with last year (If you showed up by yourself, YES...you will have a spot, because you were there to support the show)
Info Regarding Preregistration for Teams that have ran in the past that want to enter this year, but weren't there in 2016: *At a minimum, there will be 2 spots available as we ran with 22 Teams in 2016. Remember, the first 24 spots are going to Teams that have ran in the past, but last year's Teams get first dibs. Depending on how many additional spots are available after Teams that ran last year make their decisions, there might be more spots open here. NOTE: *We've thought it over on how to keep it as fair as possible regarding Teams signing up that ran in years past as we greatly appreciate their support. For this year, to make it as fair as possible, there will be a separate "Live Lottery Drawing" for those Teams
***** Info Regarding Preregistration for "New Teams": *IF there's more than 6 entries, there will be a "Live Lottery Drawing" for the 6 available spots
***** ATTENTION: *No matter what...Spots will not be allowed to be sold! If a Team drops out after getting in for whatever reason, that spot will go to the next "New Team" in the Lottery as if there's more than 6 entries, there will be several "Stand By Teams" drawn from the pool of New Teams
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bc
Heat Winner
Posts: 225
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Post by bc on Jan 1, 2017 23:37:58 GMT -5
IMPORTANT NOTE FOR NEW TEAMS: *With there being only 6 guaranteed positions for New Teams this year (potentially more based on preregistration from teams that have ran in the past)Only ONE ENTRY Per Team will be allowed! *If you send an entry in, the name on the entry has to match both Drivers
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bc
Heat Winner
Posts: 225
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Post by bc on Jan 5, 2017 0:34:01 GMT -5
Just a heads up:
* There will be another exciting announcement made @ 10pm central Friday night, January 6th
Stay tuned...
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bc
Heat Winner
Posts: 225
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Post by bc on Jan 6, 2017 23:31:29 GMT -5
ATTENTION: *Due to the amount of interest received, there will be "4 spots" added for New Teams to the show this year... (This is in addition to the 30 Teams)
Details will be posted here @ 6pm central, Sunday January 8th
Stay tuned...
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bc
Heat Winner
Posts: 225
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Post by bc on Jan 8, 2017 19:30:19 GMT -5
ATTENTION: *Some notes before Preregistration opens this coming Tuesday, January 10th:
1)Last Year's Teams: *You MUST sign up & run w/ the same Teammate you showed up w/ last year to guarantee a first dibs spot
2)For Anyone sending checks: *Preregistration runs from January 10-24! With the amount of interest we've received...it's very likely the show will be full before January 24th! However, even if that happens, we'll still accept checks from anyone up until January 24th! The VERY LAST day we'll accept checks is January 24th! If you want a chance to run this show, please drop a check in the mail as soon as possible! If for whatever reason you make a late decision to send in an entry, please give us a heads up, but 2 weeks from this Tuesday on the 24th will be the last day any entries are accepted as long as the show is full!!! IF there's any questions for whatever reason, don't hesitate to call/text me @ (402(759-2583
A Couple Last Reminders: *All the info on who to make the checks out to, who to mail them to & the criteria required for interested Teams to send along with their checks is all listed above in the main/very first post in this thread! *No checks will be deposited/cashed until January 24th @ the earliest! As soon as we have the Live Lottery Drawings, only the Teams that make it into the show will have their checks cashed! All other Teams that don't make it in will have their checks "Voided" & tore up
*** Information for the "4 Spots" (This is in addition to the other 30 Spots) that will be added to the Team Show in the event that more than 30 Entries are received: *This will be an "Over Flow Heat" for the Team Show that will run right after the last/15th Heat *Entry/Preregistration will be the exact same as for the other 30 Teams *These 4 Teams will be picked in a Live Lottery Drawing after the 6 New Teams are drawn to complete the first 30 Teams
Who is qualified to enter: *Any past Teams that sign up who didn't get in the first 24 *ANY New Teams that didn't make it in the first 30
*There will be no time limit on this Heat
*It will be 4 2-Man Teams that run until there's ONE Team left & that Team will automatically advance to the A Main where they'll get a chance to compete with all the winners of the previous 15 Heats *Winning Team gets first dibs w/ all other Teams in the A Main for next year's show *There will be no Teams advance from this Heat to the B Main *Everyone for themselves to get into the A Main *No Money will be paid in this Qualifying Heat or the B Main *As stated from the beginning, all Money will be in A Main *If the show stays full, that would be a 17th Place added to the A Main & 17th will pay "$1,800/Team"
Note: If for some reason a Team from the original 30 has to drop out for an unforeseen reason a week or two ahead of the show or if a Team from the original 30 doesn't pass Inspection, there will be a Team taken from this group day of show that will be the next Team in the main show, leaving for sake of this example...3 Teams then to run the Over Flow Heat
Due to the amount of interest we're receiving from New Teams, we wanted to make sure & give more of you a chance to get in
If there are any questions/comments on the above info, feel free to call/text me anytime @ (402)759-2583
We greatly appreciate all the interest & do have even more news to announce over the next couple weeks & months...
Stay tuned...
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bc
Heat Winner
Posts: 225
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Post by bc on Jan 8, 2017 23:57:59 GMT -5
A couple quick notes to clarify things as we've received several calls the past couple days: *If you're a New Team considering sending in an entry for a potential spot in the show, there's not a first come, first serve basis this year. EVERYONE that sends in an entry has a shot @ getting in, because of the Live Lottery Drawing, so if you're thinking of signing up...send a check & you'll be in the Lottery Drawing!
*EVERYONE can send an entry in beginning Tuesday, January 10th when Preregistration begins! Last day for entries to be accepted is January 24th!
*Once we receive your registration, we'll notify you via text/phone call, so you know the check made it through the mail ok
*Don't hesitate to call/text me anytime you have a question/comment @ (402)759-2583 as we want everyone that's interested to know they have a shot to get in the show...all they have to do is mail a check & we want to absolutely make sure we get everyone's questions answered, if they're not sure or clear on something!
*The sooner you send an entry beginning January 10th, the better to guarantee it gets to us by or before January 24th!
*Remember...there will now be up to 10 spots available for "New Teams" & potentially more!!!
More great info to come...
Stay tuned...
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bc
Heat Winner
Posts: 225
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Post by bc on Jan 13, 2017 22:17:08 GMT -5
Due to the interest already received for this show, even though we stated no changes would be made once the Preregistration began on January 10th until day of show @ the Driver's Meeting, there is one change we felt is necessary to help improve the Midwest Smash Fest! We apologize for not adding this from the beginning & want to thank all you Drivers around the country for always being honest & letting us know what you want. This show is about having fun & making it worthwhile for not only the Drivers, but also the fans! With that being said...here you go:
Special Announcement: *The "B Main" will have $$$ added (Top 5 will be paid) *Details will be posted here @ 6 pm central this Sunday, January 15th
Note for Anyone Sending in Entries: *We don't have a form for the show this year, so feel free to write the 5 criteria on a piece of paper or type it up & print off a sheet to send along w/ your check
Additional Classes (2 more to be announced): *This info will be announced & posted on Tuesday, January 24th by 10pm central
Live Lottery Drawing info: *These will be held on Friday, January 27th starting @ 7pm central (more details coming soon)
If there's any comments/questions, feel free to call/text me (Chad)anytime @ (402)759-2583
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bc
Heat Winner
Posts: 225
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Post by bc on Jan 15, 2017 20:36:38 GMT -5
I apologize for not getting this posted by 6pm central...was watching the Green Bay/Dallas NFL Playoff game Here you go: B Main Payout for 1st-5th (technically 2nd-6th w/ the winning Team advancing to A Main) 1st: $1,800/Team 2nd: $1,600/Team 3rd: #1,400/Team 4th: $1,200/Team 5th: $1,000/Team
So, for the Team that doesn't get into the A Main, but gets 5th in the B Main for example...that would be $750 a Driver that Team would leave w/ if all Teams show up & we're able to give everyone their total Entry Fee back. We realize some things maybe should've been changed & in future years, part of the entry will probably be put into the Purse for B Main, but I didn't want to change it this year once we posted the info! Have a great Sunday evening! Going to watch the Steelers/Chiefs game now
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