|
Post by Derby6 on Feb 16, 2016 12:23:53 GMT -5
Ok thanks guys. I am on the hunt for a center sump oil pan. If anyone here has one they can part with, let me know.
|
|
|
Post by XtremeMopar#307 on Feb 16, 2016 20:24:46 GMT -5
I am headed out to play around and possibly delete Brake booster to solve that issue. Call me crazy,but I am thinking about notching cross-member to allow for oil pan to fit. Will just reinforce it on the front side... I had to notch one last year... Built a car for my girlfriend put a shocker 360/727 in a 76 Aspen that came with a 318/904 that I thought should have fit but it didn't... I didn't notice a big thing on strength but then again I want driving... It was good enough to get 4th of 19 cars for her first time out
|
|
|
Post by Derby6 on Feb 16, 2016 22:18:29 GMT -5
Good to know. Thanks!!!
|
|
dm440c
Feature Winner
derby drivers against drama- there's no crying in demo derby!
Posts: 2,824
|
Post by dm440c on Feb 17, 2016 22:10:42 GMT -5
pinch frame oil pans in general seem to be of the same feather with a hair more clearance at the crossmember. I've put 360s from Cordobas into 5th Aves (F/M/J cars) no problem. One of these days I'm going to put together a log of all the oil pan part numbers and what cars they came from for reference. Yeah, some day.
...but if you read into what I was saying, all you need is an oil pan and valve covers from a 400 that came out of a Cordoba/Magnum/etc. to put on your 440 and bingo bango. As for the headers, not sure what ones you are working with but when in doubt try the Hedman model 78070 shorty big block headers, these seem to fit in everything.
|
|
|
Post by Derby6 on Feb 18, 2016 12:46:11 GMT -5
Thanks dm440c. - I think my valve covers are going to clear. Pretty sure they are aftermarket aluminum.
- Oil pan I am on hunt for. There are so many and I need to get one with measurements to ensure its right. Front has to be very shallow (1 1/2 or so) and sump needs to be at least 4-6 inches back depending on where you measure from. $285 for a '75 Cordoba oil pan from the parts house (O'Reilly's), but I think I can do better than that online. But its hard to find one online that I have good measurements of.
- Headers are ones I custom built out of square tubing. Going to be close, but as I tried stuffing that motor in Monday I think the steering box is a non issue.
- I already removed brake booster and fabricated brake pedal to brake cylinder mounted directly to fire wall.
- Transmission mounts I'll fab once I either notch or find correct oil pan and get that 440 in there.
Thanks to all again.
|
|
|
Post by fordpowerforever on Feb 18, 2016 20:39:27 GMT -5
there is cheap oil pans on ebay for 50-100 bucks, just find the right one
|
|
|
Post by Derby6 on Feb 20, 2016 23:21:13 GMT -5
I'm. All in. Cut notch outta crossmember today and redesigned headers. Hope to finish tomorrow. Just gotta do 2nd header and box in the crossmember where I cut it. 100% the oil pan fits now. Just my custom headers hit steering box and A arm.
|
|
|
Post by Derby6 on Feb 22, 2016 0:25:01 GMT -5
It worked, I did it!!!! VERY tight fit but she's in. On to shortening driveshaft, fabbing in tranny mount, fabbing shifter, etc. I have no way of hosting pics but got plenty. lol
|
|
|
Post by STROMI 121 on Feb 22, 2016 13:54:41 GMT -5
|
|
|
Post by 78newyorker on Feb 22, 2016 19:55:13 GMT -5
I use tiny pic. Easy to use. Upload, copy and paste.
|
|
|
Post by Derby6 on Mar 2, 2016 19:35:36 GMT -5
Sorry it took me a bit. Requested pics Original Header Design Notched Cross member Notched Cross member Boxed in Redesigned Headers Tranny Mount
|
|
dm440c
Feature Winner
derby drivers against drama- there's no crying in demo derby!
Posts: 2,824
|
Post by dm440c on Mar 19, 2016 8:46:43 GMT -5
I would strongly suggest reinforcement for the cross member. They like to bend when stock as it is and you removed a lot of structure there
|
|
|
Post by Derby6 on Mar 21, 2016 22:42:46 GMT -5
Now I'm worried. I used 1/2" steel to box it in. If I need to do more, I'm all ears and will see what I can do. Feel free to PM if needed to maintain your secrets, I am in Alaska after all. LMAO. This is my biggest hardest project build since first derbying almost 30 years ago. Just want to last to put on a good show. Placing would be great, winning even better. But I just hate going out early with ruined car that really still looks straight. My biggest fear is always one hit and done. Been there and done that and it sucks. LOL
|
|
|
Post by Derby6 on Mar 21, 2016 22:53:57 GMT -5
On a positive note. IT RUNS. Runs rough and brakes are sticking, but it runs. lol
Finished bathroom remodel for momma giving me just enough time to get rad repaired and in and fire it up.
|
|
dm440c
Feature Winner
derby drivers against drama- there's no crying in demo derby!
Posts: 2,824
|
Post by dm440c on Mar 26, 2016 8:36:13 GMT -5
see those forward sections of the K? The ones that the stabilizer bar pass through. Right where those meet the main engine cross member is a stress concentration and the whole thing likes to bend upward there. Basically the stress on the main rails from hits makes them want to bend up and they pull this section with them. All the material you removed looks like it will make this weak point weaker.
I would suggest splinting the area with more plate, make sure you overlap that stress concentration on both sides
|
|