Post by Beesley13B on Jan 22, 2016 8:44:24 GMT -5
Entry: $40 day of show
Pit Pass: $15.
www.facebook.com/BooneCountyIndianaDemoDerby/?fref=ts
Guaranteed Payout
Stock
1- $3000
2- $1000
3- $700
4- $600
5- $500
6- $400
7- $300
8- $200
9- $100
10- $50
Mini
1- $1000
2- $400
3- $150
4- $50
5- $50
Mid
1- $750
2- $300
3- $100
4- $50
5- $50
Youth
1- $200
2- $100
3- $50
RULES: 2016
Drivers: All drivers will fill out an entry form and sign insurance form to participate.
Men and Women will run in same class. NO Powder Puff.
You must be 18 years old to compete with a valid driver’s license or valid ISSUED I.D. card from the state of your residence. (Do not forget your I.D. or you will not run) 16 & 17 year olds can compete with signed parents consent.
Drivers must furnish his/her own vehicle or have one sponsored to them.
DRIVERS MUST WEAR HELMET, EYE PROTECTION, LONG SLEEVES, PANTS, & SHOES TO PARTICIPATE. (NO SHORTS, T-SHIRTS, SANDLES, ECT.) GLOVES & FIRE SUIT ARE RECOMMENDED
NO DRIVERS OR PIT CREW MEMBERS WILL BE ALLOWED TO BE UNDER THE INFLUENCE OF ANY ALCOHOLIC BEVERAGES OR ILLEGAL DRUGS.
DO NOT COME TO THIS SHOW INTOXICATED OR WITH ANY ALCOHOLIC BEVERAGES.
YOU WILL BE ARRESTED AND PROSECUTED, ALL ALCOHOL WILL BE CONFISCATED, AND COOLERS WILL BE CHECKED.
LEAVE ANY DRUG PARAPHENALIA AT HOME.
Entry fee is non-refundable if your car does not pass inspection. $40.00 DAY OF THE SHOW.
All drivers must attend drivers meeting before show starts.
Type of cars for stocks: Any year sedan or station wagon except, no trucks, vans, carryalls, 4x4's or Chrysler imperials. Also you may run a convertible as long as a metal car roof has been installed without reinforcing the body of the car.
HEATS will be assigned by staff and will be a course of elimination heats to advance to the feature.
4 cars out of each heat unless there is a shortage of cars. 3 will be the alternative if this case occurs.
If a person qualifies for the feature through the heat or consi and is unable to continue driving due to injury or some other reason, another registered driver may drive that car in the feature. (HEAD OFFICIAL MUST BE NOTIFIED TO MAKE CHANGES IN THE ROSTER) This person’s name is Ben Beesley
Do not get out of your vehicle unless you are told to do so by an official while you are competing in the arena area.
Drivers must remain with their vehicles until they are removed from the arena.
NO PIT CREWS ALLOWED ON THE TRACK AT ANYTIME, FAMILY MEMBERS, or FRIENDS.
This will result in disqualification and forfeit of any prize money.
All cars will have a working seat belt for the driver’s seat and it will be on during the event.
NO DRIVERS DOOR HITS: However, we all know that accidents do happen. If it looks intentional you will get disqualified. If it is questionable we may stop the heat or feature and it will be up to the driver who received the hit in the door if the violator is disqualified. SO PLEASE TELL ALL FAMILY MEMBERS AND FRIENDS SO THERE IS NO CONFUSION.
TEAM DRIVING: It is allowed to a certain extent. YOU MUST MAKE COMPETITIVE CONTACT WITH ALL VEHICLES THAT ARE COMPETING IN THE ARENA. Do not make the officials dictate the outcome!!
Sandbagging: It is up to the drivers that are competing to take out the other cars that are grocery shopping, not the officials. Remember 1 minute combat rule. 1 minute re-starts. "Some drivers may get more time for a re-start if they are putting on a good show"
Officials will paint an X on the sandbaggers so the rest of the field is aware of what is going on. It is up to you as a driver to take them out. The officials reserve the right and will disqualify a sandbagger if he does not get with the program.
FIRES: Depending on what type of fire it is, you will be out. 1 fire in the heat. Maybe 2 in the feature (it all depends on what type it is)
ROLLOVERS: We hope this does not occur and at the first sign of a car rolling over YOU NEED TO GET OUT OF THE GAS & STOP.
OFFICIALS DECISIONS ARE FINAL: NO UNSPORTSMAN LIKE CONDUCT WILL BE TOLORATED. Arrest or Removal from the fairground property will occur.
General Rules:
-All rear seats and decking must be removed.
-All trailer hitches and bracing must be removed.
-Must have working seat belts securely attached to the car.
-Must have working brakes.
-Battery must be mounted securely and covered in the passenger compartment.
-Original gas tank must be removed and a fuel cell must be in place behind the front seat. It must be secured and covered to protect the driver.
-Fuel line must be relocated from the stock position and run entirely in the passenger area. Must be secured properly and have leak proof fittings.
-Electric fuel pumps allowed, but must have an ON/OFF switch mounted close to the steering column and easily accessible from outside of the vehicle.
-If you choose to run a transmission cooler outside of the radiator it must be securely mounted in a protected position with leak proof fittings.
-Every vehicle must have a spreader bar no more than 6 inches behind the front seat. It must be bolted or welded in place.
-Every vehicle must have a number clearly visible on the front doors.
-Doors must be secured with chain or #9 wire in 2 spots per seam.
-Hoods must have a 12 inch hole in the center.
Call/Text with questions Ben Beesley 317-371-6100
***************STOCK CLASS**********************
We will more than likely have heats for this class.
No trucks, vans, ambulances, jeeps, carry-alls, limousines, 4-wheel drives, hearses. No Chrysler Imperials or bodies on imperial frames. 74 Imperials and newer are ok.
BODY:
-INTERIOR, GLASS, LIGHTS, SEATS, ECT. MUST BE REMOVED FROM ALL CARS PRIOR TO ARRIVAL OF TRACK.
-Sheet metal may be cut for clearance, but no bending, folding or reattaching anywhere.
-You may use five 3/8” bolts per wheel well opening. Hardware washers only.
-Rust repair can be made anywhere on the body. Must use the same thickness steel and have a maximum of a one inch overlap. You will be required to remove any rust repair the officials feel is excessive.
-You may run double stranded number 9 wire from quarter panel to quarter panel in trunk to keep the quarters from blowing apart. Single hardware washers may be welded around holes only.
-Body creasing is allowed, but absolutely no bolting or welding to assist.
-Sedagons will be allowed, but call for allowable tucking methods.
-If you remove a large section of the firewall for DP clearance, you can add 4, 4inch wide strips of ¼ between the firewall and dash bar
BODY MOUNTS:
-You may replace the 2 body mounts in the core support with 1 inch all thread and run them up through the hood. They may be bolted solid. If you choose to run a spacer between core support and frame it can’t be bigger than 2”x2” tubing and must be free floating.
-No sleeving of the althread.
-The 4 rear body mounts can be bolted solid. 2 of those may have ¾ inch all thread ran vertically through the trunk lid. (Wagons may go vertically through the roof or pillars). Washer can be no larger than 4”x4”
-Mopars can either go through the frame or welded to the side. Must be on the flat part of the rear frame under the trunk pan.
-Body mounts from firewall to the humps may also be changed out, only in the factory locations. With a bolt no larger than ½ inch and hardware washers no larger than 1 inch. You must maintain the factory rubber or hockey pucks between the body and frame for these mounts.
FRAME:
-Core support mount must remain stock and be in the factory position, you may shorten the frame up to that mount.
-There is to be no welding on the frame for any reason (except for A-frames forward, top seam only).
-Frames can be notched, and dimpled.
-Rust holes on the frame can be fixed with the same thickness steel, with no more than one inch overlap. Don’t get carried away with frame repair, call me and be prepared to provide proof.
-No frame shaping allowed other than 12 inches in the center of the hump. 6 inches in front of axle centerline and 6 inches behind. If you take it to the point of ripping or tearing the metal you will not be allowed to weld it back up.
-Frames can be pitched/tilted. Do not add any metal to complete the job, frames can only be cut and the original metal rewelded. Cold bending is also acceptable.
-Fresh cars can have two 4x6x1/4 plates on the side of the frame.
-Pre run cars can have a total of four 4x6x1/4 plates. The 3rd and 4th plate must be on a damaged, or visibly bent section of the frame.
-You can #9 wire the frame rails together in one spot behind the humps. No more than triple stranded.
DOORS:
-Doors may be welded solid with strap no bigger than 4”. Tops of doors may be folded over and welded but no added metal.
-Absolutely no other body seam welding beside doors
TRUNK:
-Trunk lid can be tucked, you may be asked to cut a hole in the lid if we can’t see inside your trunk
-No wedging of the rear of the cars. YOU MAY V-TRUNK IN CENTER BUT THERE MUST BE A 12 INCH GAP BETWEEN LID AND FLOOR.
-Your allowed one of two methods to secure the truck lid.
-Method A, 6 spots of double stranded #9 wire with 1 inch hardware washers around each hole.
-Method B, 6 ½ inch bolts bolted through the trunk lid and rain lip with 1 inch hardware washers, or you can weld 3 inch wide angle iron on the trunk lid and quarter panels and bolt them together.
-Wagon tailgates must be secured in the same fashion as trunk lids.
- All wire or bolts must be body to body only.
HOOD:
-Hoods can have a total of 6 tie downs.
-In addition to the 2 pieces of all thread in the core support you will be allowed 4 more bolts to hold the hood down. Must be body to body only and the washers must not exceed 4”x4”. Or you may use double stranded #9 wire in 4 spots. It must be body to body only.
-No more than ten 3/8” bolts to hold your outer hood skin to your inner hood skin.
BUMPERS:
-Homemade pointy bumpers must have a tapered point that closely resembles a Chrysler pointy bumper
-Bumpers may be plated on the inside and on the backing of the bumper. No sharp edges.
-Any front bumper bracket may be used on any car.
-You can also make your own bracket using 2x2 square tubing.
-Absolutely no bracket or shock may be welded 6 inches behind the factory core support mount hole on the frame rail. If your cars factory shock or bracket goes farther than 6 inches back, it must remain completely factory beyond the allotted 6 inches.
-If you choose to hard nose or put your shock inside the frame you MUST have a ¾” hole in the top center of your frame 6 inches behind the factory core support mount hole on the frame rail. (Unless we can clearly see the shock stops where it’s supposed to) You may weld a ¾” hardware washer around the hole to make up for the missing metal.
-Suicide Lincolns and cars that have no core support mount must only go 6 inches past the vertical part of core support right above the frame rail when mounting the bumper.
-Rear bumper brackets may be welded, single pass only. Absolutely no rear bracket may be moved forward.
-You will be allowed 4 spots of double stranded #9 wire from your hood/core support to your front bumper.
Tires & Rims:
-No tires bigger than 16 inch
-Any tire can be used except for studded or split rims.
-Valve stem protectors are allowed.
-Multi pattern wheel centers are allowed.
-No bead locks or full rim and tire protectors.
CAGE:
-4 point cages are allowed. Must be a minimum of 6 inches above the factory body mount height.
-Seat bar should be no more than 3 inches behind the front seat.
-Roll over bar must be vertical and must be no more than 6 inches behind the seat. Can be bolted to the roof in 2 places.
-All down legs need to be straight down to the body or frame.
-Front down legs need to be at least 6 inches behind the crush box body mounts.
-Rear down legs can’t be any farther back then the roll over bar
-You are allowed to add two angled bars off the seat bar to the frame, 6 inches away from where the arch starts.
-Gas tank protectors are allowed, no more than 30 inches wide and must not come in contact with the rear firewall/package tray before, during, or after the event. Can be bolted to the floor if it’s not attached to the cage.
-Two safety bars are required in the front windshield opening. Chain or #9 wire is acceptable, but must be securely fastened to the firewall and roofline only. They must be a minimum of 18 inches apart.
-Two triple strands of #9 wire are optional in the rear window, must be sheet metal to sheet metal.
ENGINES AND TRANSMISSIONS:
-Any engine or transmission in any vehicle.
-All types of engine and transmission protectors are allowed, but they cannot reinforce the frame or body in anyway. This means protectors cannot come in contact with the frame, body, or cage before, during, or after the event. You need to remove enough sheet metal around your protectors to prevent them from coming in contact. Any protector that comes in contact with the body, frame, or cage will results in a DQ.
-If you choose to run a pulley protector, you must remove the sway bar between the frame rails.
-Solid lower engine mounts are allowed. If you need to weld plates under your lower mounts because they won’t sit on the engine cross member that’s fine, but they must not be attached to the frame rails.
-If you choose to chain your engine in, the chains must only be attached to the engine and straight down to engine cross member.
-Skid plates must be just for the pan they are protecting and can’t extend more than a ½” from there pan.
-If you choose to not run the factory transmission cross member you may use 2”x2” tubing instead. It must mount in factory make and model location. No plates bigger than 4”x4” welded to the frame to weld your cross member to.
-Transmission may be mounted to the cross member with a solid mount.
-If your car is factory equipped with a floating cross member (example: mid 70’s Fords and 74 and older Cadillacs) you may add TWO 5/8” bolts and bolt it solid to floor. Washers cannot exceed 4”x4” diameter.
-Slider shafts are allowed.
-Aftermarket transmission shifters are allowed.
-Aftermarket throttle and brake pedals are allowed.
RADIATORS:
-Radiators must remain in the factory location with no reinforcement.
-You can have expanded metal or the stock A/C condenser in front of the radiator, but neither one can reinforce the core support.
REARENDS:
-Any factory car or truck rear end is allowed.
-No rear-ends bigger than a 3500 series pickup, and only one wheel per side of rear end.
-You may weld spider gears and add a lower gear ratio.
-You may weld brackets on the rear end to accommodate the vehicles factory suspension style.
-When building brackets for the upper ears you may not go any wider than 16 inches from center on either side to mount the upper ears. (So 32” total mount area) This will cover any car’s rear upper trail arms, and eliminate any discussion on whether it’s considered a brace more than a justifiable mount.
-No rear end bracing allowed.
SUSPENSIONS: Rear suspension must bounce.
-Rear suspension cannot be solid. It can be stiff but it needs to still have movement. You may use all thread in place of the rear shocks but it must mount to the frame in the same place as the factory shock.
- Everything must be factory make for the car. You may upgrade to stiffer/taller coil springs. A-arms and spindles may be changed but must stay Ford to Ford or GM to GM. No homemade or aftermarket parts. One exception is 98 and newer Ford cars may do the Watts Link conversion, with ZTR style brackets. No additional metal may be added other than the brackets themselves.
-Front suspension can be solid. Upper a arms may be directly welded to the frame, or you can use a 2 inch wide 4 inch long 1/4 inch strap to secure them down on both sides of the a arm. Do not get carried away with the strapping or you will be required to remove it.
-Tie rods can be welded up, but no added metal or bracing.
-Steering box swaps are allowed, but absolutely no welding on the frame. Keep the mounts minimal. If we feel your using your steering box mount to strengthen frame you will not run.
-Aftermarket steering shafts allowed.
-Rear trailing arms can be shortened or lengthened to correct pinion angle, but cannot be braced in any way whatsoever. You may weld a single hardware washer around the rear hole of the upper control arms. Single pass only!!
-Rear end may be chained or wired in one spot per frame rail. Must be straight over the center of the axle and NOT welded to the frame.
-Factory size, number and stagger will apply to cars with factory leaf springs. You may add 2 clamps in front of rear axle and 3 in rear. Max of 2 bolts per clamp. Bolts can’t be bigger 3/8” and clamps can only be 2 inches wide. No welding or duct taping of springs.
Call/Text with questions Ben Beesley 317-371-6100
***************Compact/Midsize***************
-All compact and mid-size vehicles will follow the same safety rules and regulations listed in the general rule section.
-105” wheel base and smaller will be in the compact class. 105 1/16th” wheelbase and bigger will be in the mid-size class. NO EXCEPTIONS!!!
-Minivans will be allowed to participate in the mid-size class. No full framed vehicles in either class.
-No mini trucks or V8 engines allowed in compact or mid-size class.
Below you will find the list of options you have to build a car, if you choose to alter the stock configurations. We absolutely will not work with a driver to get a car into the show. Do not read these rules trying to find grey areas and do not read between the lines because you are only setting yourself up to be pissed. We will enforce these rules very, very strictly and the Head Inspector’s say is final!
-Absolutely no engine/trans protectors, radiator protectors (other than a stock A.C. condenser, or any other homemade parts to make a vehicle stronger. You will be allowed a gas tank protector but it must not touch the firewall and no wider than 30 inches. If running a minivan your gas tank and/or gas tank protector may be no farther than 36” from the rear spreader bar at any point.
-All suspension must be factory make/model for the vehicle.
-4 point cage is strongly recommended. You may run 4 down legs to the body or the frame but these must remain in between the front door inner seams.
-You may replace the core support mounts with ¾” althread and run them up through the hood. No sleeving is allowed. If your vehicle doesn’t have mounts, the althread must be welded to the backside of the core support. You may also run 2 pieces of ¾” althread through the trunk lid. They may be welded to the side of the frame. They must be placed on the flat part of the trunk pan and ran vertical.
-Doors and trunk lid may be welded solid with 4”x1/8” strap. No stacking or overlapping. Must have a 12” inspection hole in trunk lid!!! If you choose not to weld trunk you may use 8 double stranded spots of #9 wire but must be body to body only. Hoods may have 8 spots of double stranded 9 wire. 1” hardware washers may be welded around the holes for the wire to pass through.
-Five 3/8” bolts with hardware washers only per wheel well.
-No more than ten 3/8” bolts to bolt the outer hood skin to the inner hood skin.
-Any O.E.M. bumper may be used and it may be loaded on the inside if you choose.
-Homemade bumper brackets are allowed but no bigger than 2”x2” tubing. You may not weld or bolt past 6” behind the factory core support mount hole. If your vehicle doesn’t have a core support mount we will measure from the vertical part of core support directly above the frame rail. We don’t want bumpers falling off!!
-Absolutely no welding besides what is stated in the rules.
-The only acceptable rust repair is for your feet, seat, gas tank, tranny cooler and battery box. Don’t get carried away or you won’t run!!
-Pre-rans will be allowed 4 plates on visible bends, 4”x6”x1/4” max size.
-All factory frame and body seams can be welded solid. Single pass and no added metal.*
-Front suspensions may be locked. If you need to weld strap to your frame in order to do so, keep it minimal. If we feel you are using it to strengthen your frame you will need to cut it in order to run. -In addition to the 2 pieces of althread in the core support you will be allowed 4 more bolts to hold the hood down. Must be body to body only and the washers must not exceed 4”x4”. Or you may use double stranded #9 wire in 8 spots. It must be body to body only.
-You may also run double stranded #9 wire from the front bumper to the hood or core support in 4 places only.
************** Youth **************
12-15yr olds. 16 and 17yr olds will be allowed to run with special permission. Please call first.
1. Stock builds.
2. Doors will be welded 2x4 strips on 4 places. (Drivers door can be welded solid) Trunks can be fastened down in 6 spots (wire, chain, only) Hood can be fastened down in 6 spots using bolts, wire, chain.... Allthread is allowed for core support area.
3. Cars can have a maximum of 105 in. wheelbase. Wheelbase can not be altered to achieve 105in.
WE ARE LOOKING FOR CAR SIZES LIKE "ESCORTS, MUSTANGS, AMC'S, CIVICS, ECT..."
4. Cars with electric fuel pumps must be wired to shut off by switch that is clearly marked.
5. Cars may run any make of motor or tranny combination (V-6 OR V-4), no reinforcement of motor cradle.
6. Leaf spring cars must run ( factory ) leaf setup.
7. Cars can run gas tank protectors.
8. NO V-8's, . . . 4 or 6 cyl. only
9. No plates on fresh cars.
10. No tires bigger then 15 inches.
11. NO FULL FRAME CARS.
12. Cage rule is same as stocks.
13. Bumper rule is same as stocks.
Call/Text with questions Ben Beesley 317-371-6100