May 9th M40 Speedway MDDA Demolition Derby Jones, MI

[officialmdda]

May 9th we will be have a demolition derby at M40 Speedway in Jones, MI. We will have as follows Power Wheels, '80's and Newer, Pro-Mod, Compacts, Trailer Race, and More!  I will post more info on the event, as in times and prices as soon as we get all the details worked out. 

General Competition and Safety Rules

A. You must wear a safety belt and a Z-90 full face helmet including chin guard. (Snell 95 or newer)


B. Full Fire suit, gloves and racing shoes are highly recommended!! Leather shoes/boots, long sleeve shirts and pants are required!


C. Goggles or face shields required no exceptions.


D. Vehicles must have working brakes at all times.

E. All boundaries must be observed.


F. NO DRINKING of alcoholic beverages in the pits or by anyone having a pit pass. Anyone found under the influence of alcohol or drugs will be DQ’d. Drivers are responsible for the crews and friends/family.


G. Cars are not permitted in the competition area before the heat in which they are in.

H. A vehicle will be DQ’d if the driver’s door comes open.


I. ONE MINUTE TIME LIMIT IS ENFORCED FOR RE-STARTS AND MAKING COMPETITIVE CONTACT WITH ANOTHER CAR. HITS MUST BE AGGRESSIVE. Simple contact within the time limit does not constitute combat and will be considered sandbagging. SANDBAGGING WILL NOT BE TOLERATED!

J. All cars should be removed from the track 1 hour following the show. We will go out of our way to make arrangements for you to get your car if you are double hauling, however any car left after one week will become the property of MDDA.

K. All competitors must stay in their derby area, until told to move!

L. Fire extinguisher is highly recomended!

M. All cars must pass tech inspections one (1) hour before the show!!!!

N. You must be able to prove ownership of your vehicle to law enforcement authorities if requested. Cars left behind must forfeit title to management.

O. A time limit may be imposed on all events.

P. you will be allowed one rollover, the second rollover will be grounds for disqualification.


Q. Drivers must remain in the vehicle with helmet, seatbelt and eye protection on until notified by an official that it is safe to exit the vehicle.

R. Driver’s door hits are illegal. If the hit is deemed by the official to be careless or intentional, you will be disqualified. If you use your driver’s door as a defense, we will not enforce the rules. If you use the door defense repeatedly you will be disqualified.

S. You are allowed one fire; second fire will be cause for disqualification.

[officialmdda]

Power Wheel Rules

Ages 5-10


MUST wear helmet



MUST be accompanied by an adult, 1 child per adult 1 adult per child


Factory PLASTIC full bodied vehicle, NO ATVs dune buggies or any style that leave legs and feet open


Electric powered ONLY


ONE motorcycle or garden tractor battery allowed. NO car batteries



NO Modifications allowed, NO reinforcing, NO fabricated bumpers

Stock plastic tires



** OFFICIALS DECISION IS FINAL ON CONSTRUCTION AND SAFETY! **

IF YOU QUESTION ANYTHING ON YOUR CAR PLEASE CONTACT US!



These are not suggestions. This is not a menu! This is what you are allowed to do to prepare your car. Please do not try to read anything more into these rules.



“GREY AREAS IN THESE RULES WILL EASILY BE ILLUMINATED BY THE BLUE LIGHT OF A lighter!”

[officialmdda]

'80's and Newer Rules


CAR: Any 80’s or newer car – Sedan or Wagon. EXCEPT NO: ’03/newer Ford Motors Car or frame (Ford, Lincoln, Mercury), leaf spring cars, vans, trucks, convertibles, Jeeps, hearses, limo’s, “sedagons”, “wedge cars”, or 4 wheel drive vehicles. No junk, tires, wheels, etc. in the car. Head lights, tail lights, marker lights, chrome molding strips & bottom portion of rear seats must be removed from car. Rolling down windows is not permitted. Removal of windshield is optional, safety straps must be installed from roof to cowl. All debris and glass must be removed from car before getting to the speedway. This means you MUST vacuum your car out prior to reaching the track!!



BODY: Body creasing/enhancing of any portion of the body is ALLOWED. Trunk lid seams must be clearly visible and accessible. No doubling of any body panels allowed, no added metal allowed. Rusted out holes in your floor may be patched with sheet metal where components will be mounted or for drivers safety, sheet metal only. No other sheet metal patching is allowed unless it is a safety issue. Do not patch clean/solid floors. Holes may be cut in the floor & firewall to accommodate the shifter, fuel lines, and transmission lines. The package tray (a.k.a. rear speaker deck area) MUST be in car and in the stock unaltered location (DO NOT SMASH DOWN)!!! NO bolting fenders together.



HOOD & TRUNK: BOTH hood and trunk MUST BE OPEN for inspection. Hood must have a 12” hole cut for safety. HOOD ONLY can be bolted OR #9 wired in 4 spots each. If you use #9 wire, you are allowed 2 strands per hole. 1” MAX bolt/all-thread can be used in 4 places to secure the hood. HOOD: front 2 bolts may go thru the core support to the hood, the rear 2 bolts – weld a MAX 3”x3” plates to the fender and the hood to bolt thru. TRUNK: can ONLY BE WIRED 4 places, 2 strands per spot. A tailgate on a wagon is the same as a trunk (but it may be cut down for visibility). TRUNK LID – must be mounted on stock hinges or taken off. Trunk “rain rail” may be cut for clearance to hand push trunk lid to the trunk floor.



DOORS: Door seems ONLY may be welded on the outside ONLY (instead of welding you may use: chain, wire, or straps). On the WINDOW FRAME of the door, you may ONLY have 3 places welded (1 – front, 1 – top, 1 – back) per door. These window frame welds will be a MAX of 3” long x 3” wide. Top of door may be folded over/smashed down, but not welded, except for drivers door ONLY.



FRONT WINDOW: You must have a chain, #9 wire, or max 3” wide x 1/4" thick piece of steel running from the roof sheet metal to the cowl sheet metal, 2 pieces max. MUST go from sheet metal roof to sheet metal cowl – BOLTED ONLY!! NO PIECES IN CENTER OF WINDOW BEHIND THE DP!!!! This can not be designed as reinforcement to the car. NOTHING IS ALLOWED IN THE REAR WINDOW OPENING!



NUMBERS / COLOR: ALL CARS MUST HAVE A ROOF SIGN WITH YOUR NUMBER ON IT, minimum 15”x15” and MAXIMUM 24”x24” and must be in contrasting color to read the number. These may not be positioned in any way to strengthen the car.



FRAME: Must be OEM for that make/model of car. Rubber body mounts can be replaced with no larger than 1” bolt and 3” diameter washer (free floating). If you remove the stock body mounts, a minimum 3/4” spacer (free floating) must replace that mount (NO bolting the body solid to the frame). Do NOT weld the washers or spacers for the body mount to the frame or the body. NO patch’s on rusty spots. No welding of any seams or crush holes on the frame. No plating, stuffing, heat treating or foam filling of frames is allowed. NO bolts in holes on the frame, unless they are holding a needed/usable part! Do NOT paint or undercoat your frame. You may weld your motor mounts to the engine cross member, not to the frame rails. You may notch the frame for minimal pre-bending, but do NOT weld the cut. FRAME SHAPING IS NOT ALLOWED!! Tipping of the frame is allowed, only where the frame flap meets the outside of frame, in front of the box – REWELDING OF THE FLAP IS ONLY ALLOWED ON THE SIDE OF THE FRAME, DO NOT FOLD OVER THE ECCESS FLAP AND WELD IT TO THE TOP OF THE CRUSH BOX!!!! No other metal or gussets can be added. DO NOT WELD OR RE-WELD ANY OF THE CRUSH BOX SEAMS!!!!! (If ANY official believes you have welded these crush box seams, you WILL cut them.)



FRAME on General Motor Cars ONLY!!!: (Chevy, Olds, Pontiac, Buick, Cadillac) You may weld a plate on the rear humps only as described here, if you do anything other than this and you will NOT run! You may weld a 1/4” thick x 12” long x 4” tall piece of flat steel on each rear hump. It MUST be on the outside of the frame and be positioned ONLY as described. All of the plate must be on the hump, no overlapping above or below. You may weld the complete plate to the frame. If you have any questions about this please ask! This is ONLY LEGAL ON GM’s!!!



BUMPERS: Bumpers are interchangeable; any year passenger car bumper is okay. You may weld the bumper brackets to the frame or weld the bumper directly to the frame. Weld for the bumpers can NOT go further back than the core support. You may weld the outer skin to the inner bumper skin (All officials MUST be able to see inside the bumper to make sure it is not loaded!) NO LOADED BUMPERS. You may not weld the bumper to the body at any time. Bumpers may be cut, but must be flat, No points to cut tires. All bumper shock components MUST BE OEM PARTS FOR THAT MAKE/MODEL OF CAR! Bumper height must be a minimum of 15” and a maximum of 22” on fresh cars, to the bottom of the bumper. Pre-run cars may be up to a maximum 30” high (Officials decision is final on the height and safety of the bumper on the pre-run cars). You can use 4 loops of #9 wire in 4 different spots on the front and rear bumper. Wire must go from the bumper to sheet metal only (not thru the hood or trunk)



Suspension/Steering: NO leafing a coil car. Coil springs may be changed (you may run spring spacers/knuckle busters), but they CAN NOT be mounted in the springs to reinforce the car in any way. Rear springs may be either #9 wired, tack welded, or hose clamped in place. Shock absorbers must be factory OEM or replacement for a passenger car. Tie-rod and tie-rod ends must be oem stock (NO WELDING OR HOMEMADE). Aftermarket steering columns/wheels are allowed, but MUST have 2 u-joints or sliding components (NO solid shafts from steering wheel to gear box), it is suggested for safety to have a washer welded on this shaft as a safety stop as well. NO chains, cables, or wire around the spindles. ALL suspension (while hooked up) must have movement. Trailing arms – 4 link conversion is okay. Choice of ZTR aftermarket or box arms, 1/4” max thick square tube, or you may weld a 1/4" max plate to the bottom of the stock OEM trailing arms. All trailing arm brackets that are changed MUST BE bolted in ONLY and mounted in the stock location and cannot help strengthen any part of the body or frame! If you run the Watt-Link, you may either double the arms or weld one (1) 1/4” max plate to each. ALL CONVERSTIONS / WORK MUST BE “OEM” COMPARABLE!!



ENGINES: Any engine may be used in any car. You may chain in your motor, 1 Chain per side, 1/2” max. Aftermarket Distributor/carburetor protectors, cradles, and pulley protectors are allowed. These must be separate items and CAN NOT be all connected for a complete engine protector system. NO “extreme” or full/1 piece engine systems. IF YOU USE A CRADLE, THEN MOTOR MOUNTS MUST HAVE RUBBER INSERTS – NO SOLID MOTOR MOUNTS. Back side of DP CAN NOT be any wider than 12”. DP MUST be at least 4” from cowl bar (measured from back of DP to front of cowl bar). Protectors may not be welded, bolted or connected to body, hood, or frame.



Transmissions: Transmissions must be of passenger car origin. Transmission coolers may be used, but they must be secured in such a way to prevent injury. Coolers may be secured in a safe container on the passenger compartment floor or stay in the engine compartment area. Transmission cross member, may be moved back a MAXIMUM of 8” from the stock location. You may ONLY USE a MAXIMUM of 1/4” (thick) x 6” (long) x 3” (wide) piece of angle, welded to the side of the frame ONLY, for your bracket. Cross member must be welded or bolted to the brackets (NOT to the frame). Cross member may be wired to the cage. Cross member MUST be of OEM origin (Ford or Chevy), your choice. Cross member CAN NOT be moved forward of the stock location!



SKID PLATES: Skid plates are allowed. They must be separate plated for the engine and the transmission. NO full-length skid plates. NO bolting or welding the skid plated to the frame.



Radiator & Supports: Radiator must be in the stock position or taken off. OEM style radiators only, no home made tube construction radiators. No spray foam around the radiator. Fenders can be welded to the top of the core support only. Core support must be OEM and NO reinforcing of the core support in any way, shape, or form! “Radibarrells” ARE NOT ALLOWED!!!! You may have 1 piece of 1/4” thick mesh wire in front and behind the radiator. Spacer between the bottom of the core support and the frame for a mounts can be round or square (3” MAX). This spacer is just like a body mount and MUST be free floating!



REAR ENDS: Rear ends must be of a passenger car origin, 5 lugs maximum (NO truck, 8 lugs, or floater rear ends) You may tilt the rear end by moving and rewelding the trailing arm mounts on the rear end ONLY. NO REAR END BRACES OF ANY KIND – NO EVIDENCE OF ANY REAR END BRACE BEING THERE! You may weld the rear end tubes to the housing. NO chains or wire is allowed around the rear end. NO double axle tubes. FORD 9” – Top trailing arm mounts MUST BE 2 separate ears, not 1 big piece on top of the rear end.





BATTERY:2 – 12 Volt batteries maximum, they both must be safely secured either in the passenger seat or in front of the passenger seat only and MUST be covered.



FUEL SYSTEM: Original gas tank must be removed from the car and replaced with a marine type tank, 10 gallon tank maximum. You must have the gas tank securely mounted behind the front seat and in front of the rear end and it must be covered. Fuel lines running thru the car must be enclosed in some type of safety shield. Electric fuel pumps are allowed, but they must have an on/off switch near the steering wheel and clearly marked. A gas tank protector is allowed, 24” wide maximum, centered in the back seat area. There MUST be a 5” space between the tank protector and the rear firewall; also it MUST be 6” minimum off of the floor. (See cage rules for more instructions)



TIRES & BRAKES: NO tire taller than 30”, they CAN NOT be solid or foam filled (MUST hold air). Double tires will be allowed and are strongly suggested (If you are damaging the surface, you WILL be DQ’d)! NO FORKLIFT TIRES. Your wheel can have valve stem protectors, and variable center holes. 8” MAXIMUM wheel. Remove all wheel weights. Wheels may have a maximum of a 1/4" plate on the back side in the center only where the studs come thru. Your car MUST be able to stop; we reserve the right to test your brakes to make sure they work properly. Brakes must be on all 4 wheels. NO PINION BRAKES!



CAGE: Safety bars are allowed and should include padding on the driver’s side. You are allowed 4 vertical bars, 2 drivers door bars, 2 passenger door bars, 1 cowl bar, 2 seat bars, and 1 roll over bar. MAXIMUM on ALL cage bars is 3” round or 3”x3” square. The 4 vertical bars can be welded on top of frame – on a Ford, Lincoln, Mercury; the front 2 can be welded in the corner (between box & side frame rail), if on top of frame, they can not go past the rear of the box. On a GM the front 2 can go no further than the firewall. The rear 2 vertical bars can be welded to top of frame, NO FURTHER back than 15” from center post (4 door car) or 8” from rear of door seam (2 door car). These can not be used to hide a body mount. Vertical bars can have NO LARGER than a 3-1/2” square plate welded to the bottom of them. NO FRONT OR REAR KICKS. Front of cowl bar MUST BE 4” away from DP. NO BARS FORWARD OF THE COWL. All Horizontal cage bars must be a minimum of 6” off the floor. Door bars can be NO longer than 60”. A roll over bar is suggested, it can only be behind the driver and may extend above the roof. It MUST be at a 90 degree angle from the frame and CAN NOT be connected to the roof. Gas tank protector is allowed, NO wider than 24” and must be centered in backseat and can ONLY be attached to the seat bars. There MUST be a 5” space between the TP and rear firewall (without pounding the firewall back). There MUST be a 6” space between the TP and the floor. ALL cage components MUST be in the interior of the car, NOT inside the door structure (except for the roll over bar). Safety bars CAN NOT be welded to the body – UNLESS you are running a “halo” style cage. (Cage Option: You may weld a plate on the outside of the door bars on the front doors only for safety. This plate can not go above the top door bar or under the lower door bar. The plate can go no further forward or rearward than the door seams. Max plate 3’ x 1/4" thick.)



** OFFICIALS DECISION IS FINAL ON CONSTRUCTION AND SAFETY! **



OTHER: Officials decision is final!!! Cars will be impounded after each heat. All competitors will be given the same amount of time to prepare their car for the feature. These are the rules; nothing more can to be done to the car. IF YOU QUESTION ANYTHING ON YOUR CAR PLEASE CONTACT US!



These are not suggestions. This is not a menu! This is what you are allowed to do to prepare your car. Please do not try to read anything more into these rules.



“GREY AREAS IN THESE RULES WILL EASILY BE ILLUMINATED BY THE BLUE LIGHT OF A TORCH!”

[officialmdda]

PRO-MOD Rules

CAR: Any year car – Sedan or Wagon. No full frame Imperials, vans, trucks, convertibles, Jeeps, hearses, limo’s, “sedagons”, “wedge cars”, or 4 wheel drive vehicles. No junk, tires, wheels, etc. in the car. Head lights, tail lights, marker lights, chrome molding strips & bottom portion of rear seats must be removed from car. Rolling down windows is not permitted. Removal of windshield is optional, safety straps must be installed from roof to cowl. All debris and glass must be removed from car before getting to the track. This means you should vacuum your car out prior to reaching the track!!



BUMPERS: Bumpers are interchangeable. You may weld the bumper brackets to the frame or weld the bumper directly to the frame. Weld for the bumpers can NOT go further back than the front of the core support. Due to the rising cost of "good" bumpers we will allow loaded bumpers. These bumpers must appear stock with factory oem outer skin. Bumpers must be safe for other drivers. You may not weld the bumper to the body at any time. Bumpers may be cut, but must be flat, No excessive points or sharp edges. All bumper brackets and shock components must be factory, bumper shocks not to exceed 12”. Bumper height must be a minimum of 13” and a maximum of 22” on fresh cars to the bottom of the bumper. (Officials decision is final on the height and safety of the bumper). You can use 4 loops of #9 wire in 5 different spots on the front and rear bumper. Wire must go from the bumper to sheet metal only (not thru the hood).



BODY: Body creasing/enhancing of existing body lines and addition of body lines is allowed to the sides of the car only. Do not fold the metal over to create a doubled effect; any spot with 4 layers of sheet metal will be torched out completely. No doubling of any body panels allowed, no added metal allowed. Rusted out holes in your floor may be patched with sheet metal where components will be mounted or for drivers safety, sheet metal only. No other sheet metal patching is allowed unless it is a safety issue. You may not patch clean and solid floors. Holes may be cut in the floor & firewall to accommodate the shifter, fuel lines, and transmission lines etc. You are allowed (5) 3/8ths bolts per wheel opening to bolt the skins together.



HOOD: Hood must be open for inspection. Hood must have a minimum 12” hole cut for fire/safety. You are allowed (10) 3/8ths bolts to bolt the skin to the inner hood structure. You may bolt the hood down in 6 spots with a maximum of 1 inch bolts 5 inch diameter washer 1/4 thick. 2 through the core support. you can use a 6in long peice of 2in angle iron. Or you may use 6 spots of #9 wire and 5 inch washers welded to the fenders and hood 4 stands per hole or 1 peice of 3/8th's maximum size chain sheet metal to sheet metal only one piece of chain per hole. Those are your choices! pick one not all of them!



Trunk: YOU MUST have a hole in the trunk lid minimum 12"in diameter for inspection purposes. Trunks maybe welded solid using maximum 3” wide ¼” thick metal. Unlimited use of wire on UN weld trunks is permitted. If running a wagon you may weld tailgate solid using maximum 3” wide ¼” thick metal or unlimited use of wire on UN welded or take off. Package tray may be modified or taken out. NO WEDGE CARS! FENDERS MUST REMAIN VERTICLE



DOORS: Doors seems may be welded on the outside only maximum of 3” wide ¼” thick metal. Instead of welding you may use; wire, straps, or chains.



NUMBERS: ALL VEHICLES MUST have a number roof sign, minimum 15”x15” and MAXIMUM 24”x24” and must be in contrasting color to read the number. These may not be positioned in any way to strengthen the car. special numbers are permitted. nothing obscene no profanity. OFFICIALS DECISION IS FINAL!!!



WINDOW: You must have a piece of rebar, all thread, chain, #9 wire, or a bar running from the roof to the cowl in the windshield area for drivers protection, up to 3 pieces max. This may not be designed as reinforcement to the car. This can NOT touch the distributor protector must be sheet metal to sheet metal only.



FRAME: Must be OEM. Removal of body mounts are permitted. You may weld washer for body mounts to the frame no thicker than 1/8” washers. Patch’s on rusty spots and pre-ran cars are allowed. These patches may be no bigger than 1/4in thick plate 3" by 3" square. WE MUST BE ABLE TO SEE WHERE IT WAS RUSTY OR BENT! 4 patches maximum per car. A-Arms forward may have the seams welded, single pass weld no wider then 1". No plating other than specified above, stuffing, heat treating or foam filling of frames is not allowed. NO bolts in holes on the frame, unless they are holding a needed/usable part! Do NOT paint or undercoat your frame. You may weld your motor mounts to the engine cradle, not to the frame rails. You may notch the frame for minimal pre-bending, but do NOT weld the cut.



Frame shaping will be allowed. Tilting of the frame is allowed! No other metal or gussets can be added. DO NOT WELD OR RE-WELD ANY OF THE CRUSH BOX SEAMS!



You are allowed a 22 inch hump plate 1/4" thick contoured to and centered on the humps with a maximum of 3 plug welds on the outside of the hump only ON COIL SPRING CARS ONLY!



Any 2003 / Newer (Ford, Lincoln, Mercury - Ford Motor Co. products) – The factory aluminum cradle maybe replaced using 1979-2002 Crown vic/ Grand Marquis / Town Car cradle, welded in a single pass, no more than 1” wide weld, NO added steel!! All bolts holding needed steering parts may not be used to pin the frame.







Suspension/Steering: You may leaf a coil car. Leaf cars can have no more than 5 leafs, including the helper and a maximum of 4 clamps per side. Coil springs may be changed (you may run spring spacers/knuckle busters), but they CAN NOT be mounted in the springs to reinforce the car or suspension in any way. Rear springs may be either #9 wired, tack welded, or hose clamped in place ONLY. You may have solid suspension, Threaded rod shocks are permitted. Tie rods must be stock ends; No heim joints allowed for tie rods. You can weld the sleeve to the tie rod. Aftermarket steering columns/wheels are allowed. Do not run chains, cables, or wire around the spindles. Trailing arms can be reinforced. Watts-link conversion for Fords. You may convert a Watts-Link to a standard 4 link system in the following way: Use the upper and lower trailing arm brackets off an older Ford. After market brackets are allowed, but no thicker than 1/4 inch and may be attached with max of 3 – 1/2“ bolts each side. No shortening of trailing arms, no positioning of brackets to strengthen the front down legs of the rear hump, must be mounted in the stock location.



TIRES & BRAKES: Doubled tires will be allowed. Your wheel can have valve stem protectors, and variable center holes. Remove all wheel weights. Wheels may have a maximum of a 3/8" plate on the back side in the center only where the studs come thru. Your car MUST be able to stop; we reserve the right to test your brakes to make sure they work properly. pinion brakes are ok as long as they don’t strengthen the car. officials calls are final.



Radiator & Supports: Radiator must be in the stock position in front of the motor or taken off. Radiator supports must remain in the stock location. OEM style radiators only. No spray foam around the radiator. Fenders can be welded to the top of the core support only. You may have 1 piece of 1/4” thick mesh wire in front and behind the radiator. You may have a (3” x 3” MAX square) spacer between the bottom of the core support and the frame where the mounts go.



ENGINES: Any engine may be used in any car. You may chain in your motor, 1 Chain per side, 1/2” max. Chains may not be higher than the top of the stock engine. Distributor/carburetor protectors are allowed, BUT must be attached to engine or transmission only, back side of DP

MUST be no wider than 12”



SKID PLATES: Skid plates are allowed. They must be separate plated for the engine and the transmission. NO full-length skid plates. NO bolting or welding the skid plated to the frame.



TRANSMISSIONS: Transmissions must be of passenger car origin. Transmission coolers may be used, but they must be secured in such a way to prevent injury.

Transmission cross member, may be moved back a MAXIMUM of 8” from the stock location. Youmay ONLY USE a MAXIMUM of 1/4” (thick) x 6”” (long) x 3” (wide) piece of angle, welded to the side of the frame ONLY, for your brackets. Cross member must be welded or bolted to the brackets (NOT to the frame). maximum 2x2 tubing can be used in place of stock crossmember. Cross member may be wired to the cage.



REAR ENDS: rear end braces are allowed TO PROTECT THE REAR END ONLY not to reinforce the car.



FUEL SYSTEM: Original gas tank must be removed from the car and replaced with a marine tank, metal fuel tank, or plastic tank (if plastic tank you must enclose it in sheet metal). 10 gallon tank maximum. You must have the gas tank securely mounted behind the front seat and in front of the rear end, also it must be covered. Fuel lines running thru the car must be enclosed in some type of safety shield. Electric fuel pumps are allowed. They must be covered and have an on/off switch near the steering wheel and clearly marked in large letters. A gas tank protector is allowed, 24”x6” maximum, centered in the back seat area. There must be a 1” space between the tank protector and all sheet metal, may not be attached to anything other than back seat bar (see cage rules). if you are using alcohol you must add an additive so that it burns in color for safety reasons.



BATTERY: 2 – 12 Volt batteries maximum, they both must be safely secured either in the

passenger seat or in front of the passenger seat only and MUST be covered.



CAGE: Safety bars are allowed and should include padding on the driver’s side. All VERTICAL, DASH, and ROLL OVER bars can ONLY be a MAX of 3” round or 3”x3” square. DOOR and SEAT bars can be a MAX of 4” round or 4”x6” square. You are allowed 4 VERTICAL bars and they may be welded to the frame, BUT can NOT be used to hide a body mount, the front 2 can be no further forward than the firewall in the STOCK location, the rear 2 can be no further back than 6” behind the front seats in the STOCK location. The seat bar can be NO more than 6” behind the seat; seat must be straight up and in the stock location. A halo bar is allowed behind the driver only (roll over bar may extend above the roof of the car, but must be at a 90 degree angle from the door bars – do not angle forward or back!). The halo bar CAN NOT be connected to the roof (it can touch the roof). Front kickers are allowed, from the front of the cage to the rear of the front A-arms, Or a kicker from the cage dash bar to the DP (Pick ONE NOT BOTH!!). A gas tank protector is allowed, 24”x6” inches, centered in the back seat area. There must be a 1” space between the back tank bar and all sheet metal, may not be attached to anything other than back seat bar. All HORIZONTAL cage bars must be a MINIMUM of 6” off the floor of the car, including the gas tank protector (measured at the body bolt elevation). You are allowed to have 2 door bars (on each side), 2 seat bars (both must be horizontal), 1 dash bar, 4 vertical bars, and 1 halo bar.Safety bars are NOT allowed to be welded to ANY body panels, unless you are running a cage with no vertical down bars.



** OFFICIALS DECISION IS FINAL ON CONSTRUCTION AND SAFETY! **

OTHER: Officials decision is final!!! Cars will be impounded after each heat. All competitors will be given the same amount of time to prepare their car for the feature. These are the rules; nothing more can to be done to the car. IF YOU QUESTION ANYTHING ON YOUR CAR PLEASE CONTACT US!



These are not suggestions. This is not a menu! This is what you are allowed to do to prepare your car. Please do not try to read anything more into these rules.



“GREY AREAS IN THESE RULES WILL EASILY BE ILLUMINATED BY THE BLUE LIGHT OF A TORCH!”

[officialmdda]

Compact Rules


CAR: Any 4 or 6 cylinder Mini Car (front or Rear wheel drive). MUST a front engine full body passenger car or station wagon. (AMC’s are allowed, Fox body mustang with V6 are allowed)



CAGE: Safety bars are HIGHLEY recommended and should include padding. There MUST be a bar, chain, or wire running from the cowl to the roof, MAX of 2 bars, chain, or wire NO wider than 3”. All safety cage bars can be a MAX of 3” round or 3”x3” square. You are allowed 4 vertical bars, and they may be welded or bolted to the frame, the front 2 can be no further forward than the firewall in the STOCK location, rear bars may be no further back then where the back seat is suppose to be. Roll over bars are allowed BUT MUST be vertical and MAY NOT lean forward or backward. *** OFFICALS DESCISION IS FINAL ON CONSTUCTION AND SAFETY***

BODY: Hood can be bolted, chained or wired with a MAX of 4 locations. Hood MUST have MIN 6” hole. Doors may be welded, wired, or chained. Trunks/Hatchbacks can be welded wired or chained. Bumper can be welded to frame. Bumper mount may not extend beyond 6” past the bumper and must be weld to the bumper and frame section, and CANNOT attach to the body. Wire or chain may be ran from core support to bumper in a MAX of 4 locations, it MAY NOT be attached to the hood. PRE-RAN ONLY may patch split frame section on uni-body cars with a MAX 3”x3” ¼” thick patch, MAX of 4 Patches per car, MUST be able to see damage to area. If patches are on a straight frame section, you will be asked to cut patch off.



** OFFICIALS DECISION IS FINAL ON CONSTRUCTION AND SAFETY! **

OTHER: Officials decision is final!!! Cars will be impounded after each heat. All competitors will be given the same amount of time to prepare their car for the feature. These are the rules; nothing more can to be done to the car. IF YOU QUESTION ANYTHING ON YOUR CAR PLEASE CONTACT US!



These are not suggestions. This is not a menu! This is what you are allowed to do to prepare your car. Please do not try to read anything more into these rules.



“GREY AREAS IN THESE RULES WILL EASILY BE ILLUMINATED BY THE BLUE LIGHT OF A TORCH!”

[bent4u76]

Any word on payouts for this show yet?

[officialmdda]

Still working out all the details, hopefully we will have a payout by the end of this month or first of next.

[officialmdda]

1000$ to win PROMODS..800$ to win 80s AND NEWER (formally known as our stock class)..500$ to win COMPACTS....1000$ to win TRAILER RACES...BRING YOUR CHILDREN AGES 5 TO 11 OUT TO PARTICIPATE IN THE POWERWHEEL DEMOLOTION DERBY (must supply own power wheel and helmet)...ALONG WITH OTHER MOTORIZED MISCHIEF AND MAYHEM.............30$ pit pass 10$ for each additional event you participate in..BRING YOUR FRIENDS AND FAMILY( gate general admission still pending will up date as soon as its set in stone..apologize for inconvenience)