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Post by mopar400 on Jun 21, 2015 1:33:54 GMT -5
Car ran awesome! I had it pinned second gear for the short amount of time I ran. Pinned someone up against the wall at the start and hit em as hard as i possibly could. Ass end did not move an inch and the back bumper just tweaked down a bit only bc it was welded on the top flange only. Only reason I got out was because it was a muddy sloppy mess and I lost a tire. Then the guy running a tractor to pull me out stabbed my radiator with the forks on the loader. So now I gotta find one. But I'm running it again next week.
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Post by kentstang on Jun 30, 2015 16:44:46 GMT -5
Anyone have any ideas on a mx3 hatchback I think its a mid to late 90's. I can get pretty wild with the rules. I plan on putting a 4x4x3/16 square tube v bumper on it and weld the hatch. Any input??
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Post by tunnelvisionracing on Jul 4, 2015 1:15:27 GMT -5
they are related to the probes.i would love to get under a probe and mx3 side by side.if your going crazy with the welder and rules allow,most full weld cars are built the same.
rear end. crease the rear fenders,remove the hatch.cut 1 inch slits in the unibody above the frame and weld it to the rails.then weld the frame underneath to the unibody.after that pre bend it in line with the fuel cap.push up the spare tire area with a jack.take angle iron and weld it in a v,one end going to each rail welded after your pre bends.and weld the top of the v to the roof.take the front bumper and put it on the back end.should be four bolts,mount the bottom two holes of the bumber to the top two holes of the rear bracket.then weld it silly.or just cut the bottom out of the front bumper rails and slide it on the back frame rails and weld it.
fronts jack it up so your cv shafts are level,cut a solid piece of pipe and weld it in ur struts place.weld a decent bumper right on the frame rails.pull the hood forward enough to fold over the core support,and weld it all the way around.then weld everything underneath.....and I mean everything.
this is a good start to any full welded compact.
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Post by C4 on Jul 4, 2015 13:34:25 GMT -5
If we run another fwd Mazda, everything from the firewall forward is getting welded. Not impress with the front of the MX6 last night. 6 cars. The boy got 4th and mad dog, but the nose is hurt bad in multiple places.
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Post by tunnelvisionracing on Jul 4, 2015 20:16:51 GMT -5
^^^^pics?
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Post by C4 on Jul 4, 2015 21:15:13 GMT -5
Coming soon. Reverse petered right out of the gate, so it was mostly forward. Pix won't look so bad, but if we run it again, it will pretty much have to be plated from the a-arm forward on the driver side, and the firewall forward on the passenger side. Broke a rusty strut (damn Kansas cars), which in turn pulled out and scattered the inner cv.
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Post by C4 on Jul 4, 2015 22:51:42 GMT -5
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Post by kentstang on Jul 14, 2015 19:59:19 GMT -5
Thanks c4 for the input. Unfortunately I already welded the hatch to the body before I seen your post. But I did get my v bumper fabbed up. Its about 11" tall if you stand on end. Also I was able to drive about 16" of 2x3 square tubing in each front frame rail. Originally the front bumper was all plastic but I might use the rear bumper off of a box cavi and put on back.
I'll try and get a few pucs tomorrow to upload but I haven't had any luck doing so this far
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Post by C4 on Jul 14, 2015 20:21:53 GMT -5
^^^^^^That should take care of the a-arms forward. Our passenger side is like a spaghetti noodle clear back to the firewall. We decided to call it junk.
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Post by kentstang on Jul 16, 2015 14:59:20 GMT -5
Hey finally got one to load. Still plenty of work to do but its a start
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Post by Colyn45 on Oct 26, 2015 21:35:26 GMT -5
I might be able to pick up a 98 Mazda 626 with the V6 for relatively cheap. Anybody ever run one of these? Good or junk?
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Post by zacks workshop on Feb 8, 2017 22:04:42 GMT -5
I might be able to pick up a 98 Mazda 626 with the V6 for relatively cheap. Anybody ever run one of these? Good or junk? i seen one do demo cross it was stripped a the track stock tank and every thing frist jump it broke the driver spindle, were i live they are big car v6 above 106 not worth my time to buy or build
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Post by zacks workshop on Feb 8, 2017 22:07:58 GMT -5
I was just under my '02 driver today. Take a good look at the frame rails right by the engine pulleys. Very narrow right there on both sides. Looks like when ours becomes a derby car, I will count on it being dead in one run. the frame rails look like they will come into the motor but they will not the bend the frame has steel plates inside of it they help it stay in place, they will be in frint of the motor and go down. when yo remove stock steel bumper look dow frame rails some plate on the out side of the frame will fix that
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Post by zacks workshop on Feb 8, 2017 22:10:06 GMT -5
my next daily driver turned derby car wil probly be my sisters five speed...so post everything if you really build it... i think the five speeds are better, axles stay in better. after two or three good front hits the cr would not stay in reverse i had to hold it there, as soon as i took my hand off it would kick put
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Post by zacks workshop on Feb 8, 2017 22:11:59 GMT -5
The ones I ran both had a wiring harness on the drivers side fender. it runs from under the dash, which is easily unhooked from there. then ends up at a fuse box in front of the driver side strut tower. I moved my fuse box about where the windshield motor goes.then I put the wiring harness up and over the dash. I Never did much with the trunk and it bent up prefect,But I might of got lucky lol. once yo take car of the wiring and fuse block they hold up pretty good
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