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Post by Impin Aint Easy on Feb 4, 2014 13:18:49 GMT -5
I have done it lots .. I run ford starters with no solinoid anyways so cant burn that up. 24v start is at end of the final when your hot is so hot it wont fire.. Doing this on a gm or mopar starter will risk breaking the nose cone off .. Now i havent broken a nose cone personally but have just heard of it.. Here is some food for though actually get out there and drain your coolent , get your setup hot and see how everything works.. Some engines dont need a hot starter. Its all how your engine is built and tuned.. If your engine makes good power and runs cool at the certain timing setting but starts like crap when hot put a 24v start on it to get her spinning. Then when she fires you will still have your power curve.
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Post by DJFourX on Feb 4, 2014 13:53:01 GMT -5
24v works good just like impainteasy said perfect for that extra umph at the end of final to start hot . I run it in ever mopar motor I run n haven't burnt a starter up. Sometimes I need it n sometimes I don't but always good to have .
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shake
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Post by shake on Feb 4, 2014 14:25:28 GMT -5
I have done it lots .. I run ford starters with no solinoid anyways so cant burn that up. 24v start is at end of the final when your hot is so hot it wont fire.. Doing this on a gm or mopar starter will risk breaking the nose cone off .. Now i havent broken a nose cone personally but have just heard of it.. Here is some food for though actually get out there and drain your coolent , get your setup hot and see how everything works.. Some engines dont need a hot starter. Its all how your engine is built and tuned.. If your engine makes good power and runs cool at the certain timing setting but starts like crap when hot put a 24v start on it to get her spinning. Then when she fires you will still have your power curve. I have drained the coolant and got it grease smoking hot lol. It did not wanna crank much less start...so I set the timeing where she fired rite off Gonna play with advance curve and stuff this year. See if it improves the power when hot I have a bad habbit of hitting with my nose when I cant see out the back The last vidio I uploaded at Teepee creek ...I was the king of doughnuts hahaha...till I run out of gas on a full tank.....grrrrr never leave your car alone
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seven1seven
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demolition derby.... its a way of life!
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Post by seven1seven on Feb 4, 2014 23:16:25 GMT -5
Question, why don't you just run a parallel series of two batteries? 24V on any new starter will(not 'can', will)ruin them quite quickly. Pushing way too much voltage to it. Its kinda like pushing too much amperage through a small wire, just burns it up. To show you as an experiment, if you have an old junk 6V lawnmower, hook a 12V battery to it and see how fast it reacts on the electrical system. I would just run two high cranking batteries in a parallel circuit and you'd be fine. Same setup as in a boat. I have a setup as to where I have a battery controller, so that, if they say I can only run one battery, I just turn the dial to that battery and go, or I can turn to both and run that. Very simple, and easily chargeable with a standard alternator. Plus, I don't see why anyone would need to run a 24V system in a derby car, whether its worth $10K or not. I ran this exact setup last year with two 800cca marine batteries and a marine one wire alt... plenty of charge into the batts out of the alt and never had to charge the batteries. would spin the engine super fast even when it got hot. THIS IS THE WAY TO GO! NO 24V BUT A 350 DIESEL STARTER IS KEY TO ALL STARTING ISSUES!
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shake
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Post by shake on Feb 4, 2014 23:54:27 GMT -5
Question, why don't you just run a parallel series of two batteries? 24V on any new starter will(not 'can', will)ruin them quite quickly. Pushing way too much voltage to it. Its kinda like pushing too much amperage through a small wire, just burns it up. To show you as an experiment, if you have an old junk 6V lawnmower, hook a 12V battery to it and see how fast it reacts on the electrical system. I would just run two high cranking batteries in a parallel circuit and you'd be fine. Same setup as in a boat. I have a setup as to where I have a battery controller, so that, if they say I can only run one battery, I just turn the dial to that battery and go, or I can turn to both and run that. Very simple, and easily chargeable with a standard alternator. Plus, I don't see why anyone would need to run a 24V system in a derby car, whether its worth $10K or not. I ran this exact setup last year with two 800cca marine batteries and a marine one wire alt... plenty of charge into the batts out of the alt and never had to charge the batteries. would spin the engine super fast even when it got hot. THIS IS THE WAY TO GO! NO 24V BUT A 350 DIESEL STARTER IS KEY TO ALL STARTING ISSUES! You talking about a starter off one of them earlier Olds 350s they converted ? I had no idea they would fit
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seven1seven
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demolition derby.... its a way of life!
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Post by seven1seven on Feb 5, 2014 17:59:04 GMT -5
Lol that part was a joke but you have me thinking now... im gonna research it
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shake
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Post by shake on Feb 5, 2014 18:09:40 GMT -5
Lol that part was a joke but you have me thinking now... im gonna research it I know for sure that the early GM ones were a converted Olds motor. When I was at the wreckers last weekend I saw a 73-80 chevy truck there. It has an Olds motor under the hood andis wearing fender badges reflecting that it was a Diesel . Dad was a GM mechanic for 40 years. He was working on the stuff we crash...when it was still new. I heard lots of storys when I was younger about that garbage new Diesel ....and when they died people would then drop in an Olds 350....cause it would bolt right up... So it may be something to look hsrd at
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seven1seven
Heat Winner
demolition derby.... its a way of life!
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Post by seven1seven on Feb 5, 2014 19:44:44 GMT -5
The old truck pullers used to take the diesel heads off and replace them with gas heads for the higher compression and power they created.. not a lot of differences in the gas and diesel
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ron17t
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Post by ron17t on Feb 5, 2014 20:21:43 GMT -5
Just get a mini starter from a circle track supplier.They arn't just small they are gear reduction.Put a good heat shield over it and you should be good.Remember the bigger and shorter cables the better.
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shake
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Post by shake on Feb 5, 2014 20:29:59 GMT -5
Just get a mini starter from a circle track supplier.They arn't just small they are gear reduction.Put a good heat shield over it and you should be good.Remember the bigger and shorter cables the better. ahh yea the mini starter lol never seen one you should see the monster cable I had on there...think truck shop
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8853
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Post by 8853 on Feb 5, 2014 23:22:03 GMT -5
There is a way to run dual batteries 12v. jumper cable clamp so when your hot u can hit it 24v.
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shake
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Post by shake on Feb 6, 2014 11:00:10 GMT -5
There is a way to run dual batteries 12v. jumper cable clamp so when your hot u can hit it 24v. Im not gonna bother , but If I was I would use high quality battrey disconects to switch it from 12 to 24. Most rules require battreys to be covered. Booster cables is a short just looking for a place to happen. Thanks for the thought just the same
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