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Post by pasterofmuppets on Mar 5, 2014 15:38:41 GMT -5
Stock style build rules (chain and bang) are the easiest to build to and be able to take to multiple shows. But it also depends on your area, do some research and see what style builds are run at your local surrounding areas.
383 strokers are bad for what we do. They are expensive to purchase and build and have very little advantages if any. Get a stock chevy 350 to start out with. After a while that engine can be made into a 355 rather cheaply but even stock its the best simple engine out there.
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Post by STROMI 121 on Mar 5, 2014 16:06:28 GMT -5
I ran stock 350s with rebuilt transmissions for 14 years. Horsepower is nice but in my opinion there are so many more important purchases/modifications to make before worrying about horsepower. I would rather run a stock motor with good tires and gears than a big motor with a stock driveline. JMO
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skunk
Heat Winner
BASHMASTERS - Coming soon to an arena near you!
Posts: 849
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Post by skunk on Mar 21, 2014 10:29:00 GMT -5
^^^Awesome advise. Been running stock 350's for 25 years. Never re-built one yet. If their good and loose in the bottom end, I leave it alone. New oil pump, head gaskets, freshen up heads every now and then, new freeze plugs, full new tune up stuff, good ole 2 barrel, mild cam once, gaskets etc. You cant go wrong with the basics. Don't over-think stuff.
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Post by rrconductor on Apr 27, 2014 17:29:27 GMT -5
Now this is my 2 cents and mine only the biggest advise I can give a new guy is run your car on the track and not your mouth on here, or Facebook.
Postal Chevy
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2727
Heat Winner
Posts: 541
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Post by 2727 on Apr 28, 2014 15:08:38 GMT -5
As a rookie myself I have figured out that you need to make sure you get a good switch. Last derby I made about 6 hits and the kill switch disappeared. Still don't know where it went. I had to hold the wires together so it would run.. Every time I made a hit it would cause me to let go of the wires. Ended up with second cause it got hot and wouldn't start back..
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Post by rpmotorsports on Apr 28, 2014 15:32:30 GMT -5
My advice is when you get on the track keep your head on a swivel, the hits you don't see coming are the ones that hurt. 95% of the bumps , cuts, or bruises I have had over the years are for that very reason.
It's also good practice to keep your mouth shut in the pits. To many times you see some kid talking smack about how he is gonna clean house with grams old grocery getter only to end up getting wasted by who ever he irritated, most of them get discouraged and never run again. Run for the rush, not the trophy.
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Post by justforfun1973 on May 5, 2014 11:51:38 GMT -5
When installing distributor and your installing spark plug wires make sure you put the firing order in same direction as the rotor spins!
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rion7
Future Icon
Posts: 15
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Post by rion7 on Jun 8, 2014 23:32:20 GMT -5
Can I get some tips on tuning my motor to run longer and start easier when hot please?
I use hemi 215 6cyl motors as we are only allowed 5ltrs/1 gallon of fuel any tips on using less fuel but not loosing to much power
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Post by 383 Sonoma on Jun 9, 2014 19:06:11 GMT -5
a good tune up and properly tuned engine will go a long way on keeping one cool and efficient. a hot battery... good battery cables... and gear reduction starter help with starting when hot.
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rion7
Future Icon
Posts: 15
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Post by rion7 on Jun 10, 2014 3:09:38 GMT -5
a good tune up and properly tuned engine will go a long way on keeping one cool and efficient. a hot battery... good battery cables... and gear reduction starter help with starting when hot. Would I be able to get a few tips on how to tune a engine? As I keep going off how some of the drivers over here tell me and that is just get it hot till it wants to stop and turn the dizzy till it runs good again then turn it off and try and restart it if it starts easy well then it's right but I can get it to do this but it won't start once it cools down with out aero start but over here we can't have holes in our hoods other than tie down points and we don't get time to start our cars and shut the hoods we gotta have them race ready before they go out into the holding area. Any help will be greatly appreciated
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Post by 383 Sonoma on Jun 10, 2014 16:45:14 GMT -5
it won't start without fluid?? sounds like you've got bigger issues man..... check all the stuff i listed first... then see if it will start with the timing right... cuz you need it to start when you're on the track.
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rion7
Future Icon
Posts: 15
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Post by rion7 on Jun 10, 2014 17:31:17 GMT -5
I run high torque starters I run brand new fuel pumps I rebuild the carbs and set to factory settings I put new points and condensers in the dizzy and set the timing at top dead centre. Once it fires up I adjust the timing so that it will run smoothly and then I allow it to get hot by adjusting the idle to the revs my motor most likely be at most the night then once it's hot and begins to heat seize I turn the dizzy until it has that same revs as if it is cold then I shut it off and count to 40 as we only get 45 seconds to get started and moving again then I try to start again and 9/10 times it will fire up straight way and then I tighten the dizzy up then while it is running I start to tune the single barrel carby so that it is lean but not to lean and I adjust to suit listening to motor. After all this I allow the motor to completely cool down so normally next day I try to start it and this is where I am having my trouble as it won't start unless a cold start spray is used or I adjust the dizzy so it fires which just defeats the purpose of all the time I spent the day before getting it sweet while hot.
So any advice would be greatly appreciated as maybe the way I am doing maybe wrong or maybe I'm missing something
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Post by deadenddemo45 on Jun 26, 2014 18:51:36 GMT -5
I'm new to demo derbys and my first car was almost right off the street I think for your first derby just go out dare and do it you need to know what you are getting into before you go all out
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Deleted
Deleted Member
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Post by Deleted on Jul 2, 2014 22:20:57 GMT -5
I run high torque starters I run brand new fuel pumps I rebuild the carbs and set to factory settings I put new points and condensers in the dizzy and set the timing at top dead centre. Once it fires up I adjust the timing so that it will run smoothly and then I allow it to get hot by adjusting the idle to the revs my motor most likely be at most the night then once it's hot and begins to heat seize I turn the dizzy until it has that same revs as if it is cold then I shut it off and count to 40 as we only get 45 seconds to get started and moving again then I try to start again and 9/10 times it will fire up straight way and then I tighten the dizzy up then while it is running I start to tune the single barrel carby so that it is lean but not to lean and I adjust to suit listening to motor. After all this I allow the motor to completely cool down so normally next day I try to start it and this is where I am having my trouble as it won't start unless a cold start spray is used or I adjust the dizzy so it fires which just defeats the purpose of all the time I spent the day before getting it sweet while hot. So any advice would be greatly appreciated as maybe the way I am doing maybe wrong or maybe I'm missing something I'm not a mechanic but I am guessing if the timing is adjusted for a hot engine, it won't work for a cold engine...that is probably why you're having the problem. They won't even allow a hole cut in the hood for fire safety? If you can get it ro run hot, I'd just start it ahead of time and let it warm up. Have seen this a lot around here...they will run them about 10 minutes before pulling onto track...I imagine it's because they have the timing retarded...I never do it, though. My cars usually don't last long enough to need to worry about it.
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Post by seventyonehemicuda on Jul 19, 2014 0:24:46 GMT -5
I run high torque starters I run brand new fuel pumps I rebuild the carbs and set to factory settings I put new points and condensers in the dizzy and set the timing at top dead centre. Once it fires up I adjust the timing so that it will run smoothly and then I allow it to get hot by adjusting the idle to the revs my motor most likely be at most the night then once it's hot and begins to heat seize I turn the dizzy until it has that same revs as if it is cold then I shut it off and count to 40 as we only get 45 seconds to get started and moving again then I try to start again and 9/10 times it will fire up straight way and then I tighten the dizzy up then while it is running I start to tune the single barrel carby so that it is lean but not to lean and I adjust to suit listening to motor. After all this I allow the motor to completely cool down so normally next day I try to start it and this is where I am having my trouble as it won't start unless a cold start spray is used or I adjust the dizzy so it fires which just defeats the purpose of all the time I spent the day before getting it sweet while hot. So any advice would be greatly appreciated as maybe the way I am doing maybe wrong or maybe I'm missing something are you running a small block chev/mopar where the dist. is at the rear of the engine?
if so im sure you've already cut a hole in the fire wall so why not take a paint marker and mark the "sweet spot" on the dist. and block. later in the heat when the engine is cooking instead of doing nothing while counting to 40-45 sec.... grab the 1/2" wrench that you taped to the dash before the start of the heat, loosen, re-set and tighten up the distributor.... vuala. a hot motor that starts....
Ive got a buddy that has a piece of flat bar bolted to the neck of his distributor with a u bolt, its about 8" long he swears by it. claims he uses it to adjust the timing as the engine gets hotter and hotter... I don't know if he uses a wrench to loosen the dist. or just reefs on it. I would try it but I like my big block mopars (dist. is up front)
just a thought.
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