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Post by kirbybuilt54 on Sept 5, 2013 9:08:55 GMT -5
The floors dropped in my imp subbed 73 New Yorker bad. My trams mission crossmember is bout 3" from the ground. What are some opinions on fixing this issue. The best I can come up with is to jack up the floor boards then remount the sub, toeing it into the cage at the rear most mounts but that is not legal at my show. Just looking for some ideas or hints. Thanks
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Post by newguy68 on Sept 5, 2013 11:47:04 GMT -5
Dropped? Do you mean bellied, no floor (i.e. rotten), or sub tail/ass end pulling away from tin?
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Post by blackmopar21 on Sept 5, 2013 21:51:30 GMT -5
Well you need to let all the pressure off your torsion bars and chain the car down and plate the crossmember. That is if it's doing what I think it's doing. Or did the sub just rip away?
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Post by XtremeMopar#307 on Sept 5, 2013 23:23:54 GMT -5
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Post by kirbybuilt54 on Sept 6, 2013 9:14:51 GMT -5
The car is bellied. I used 6" washer at each corner and added two more mounts on the crossmember with large washers too. The sub also pushed back about 1.5"', tearing the floor some.
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Post by kirbybuilt54 on Sept 6, 2013 16:57:28 GMT -5
you can see in this picture how the rear frame ends are pointing down.
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Post by outkast911 on Sept 7, 2013 21:04:54 GMT -5
did the mounts pull out?? thats what it looks like. did you add the extra mount under the seat? there were some good items already brought up
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Post by kirbybuilt54 on Sept 7, 2013 23:55:09 GMT -5
The mounts did not pull out, the floor board pulled down with the frame rails. I added two extra bolt along the crossmember, if I was about 6" shorter then the one on the drivers seat would have been under my seat.
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Punisher 66J
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Post by Punisher 66J on Sept 8, 2013 18:43:35 GMT -5
I would put on your trailer and chain it in the front. Then take two jacks and start jacking them up under the fram where its pushed down. this will shove your floor back up, THEN either take #9 wire from your dash bar to your frame, or put a down bar off your cage to a plate sitting on the floor and then put your bolt through your plate to hold frame to cage.
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Post by derby47 on Sept 8, 2013 19:24:07 GMT -5
Don't look bad considering there where 16 sub imperials at that derby. you can see in this picture how the rear frame ends are pointing down.
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Post by derby47 on Sept 8, 2013 19:50:49 GMT -5
Anyone have a good fix to keep the floorboard at the firewall from pushing up/back, other than kickers off cage?
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Post by derby47 on Sept 8, 2013 20:02:33 GMT -5
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Post by kirbybuilt54 on Sept 8, 2013 21:49:22 GMT -5
Yeah, I think it held up great considering I most of done 5-6 head on's with other imps from 3/4 track. I finally destroyed my pointy nosed bumper. I'm just hoping to get one more run from this car.
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Post by newguy68 on Sept 9, 2013 9:28:19 GMT -5
Anyone have a good fix to keep the floorboard at the firewall from pushing up/back, other than kickers off cage? I would say it would depend on the rules...not trying to sound like a smart ass. I know places that allow 1" threaded rod down to frame at firewall on IMPs. Some none. Also know of other places to allow you to weld that crush box/frame to firewall bolt box to be reinforced, and some places don't allow that, but what they can't see can't hurt them...LOL. Seriously though, depends on the rules. If it's not solid behind, it's hard to support in front of that...if that makes any sense, afterall it is Monday.
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Post by newguy68 on Sept 9, 2013 9:38:29 GMT -5
I would put on your trailer and chain it in the front. Then take two jacks and start jacking them up under the fram where its pushed down. this will shove your floor back up, THEN either take #9 wire from your dash bar to your frame, or put a down bar off your cage to a plate sitting on the floor and then put your bolt through your plate to hold frame to cage. Also, weld the tail end of the frame to the floor, there is a spot to do so that isn't that obvious. If you haven't run bolts across the cross member, in the humped/thined sections of the cross member, you might want to. Makes more contact with the floor tin forcing more to give, allowing more time before crap falls out. Also, if you can run a kicker door from interior door bars, to body bolt location about midway of the door, if there isn't a spot for body bolt there should be a hole...been a while since I have been underneath, but put a bolt in there, c-channel down from interior door bars to flat over hole, bolt there. Holds everything up...I believe it's about in line with the cross member. But depending on what you can do up front, may just create another pivot point. So bolting/welding at the tails is crucial, at if forces the bend location forward. Anyway, depeding on rules you may be able to do other things. Much like punisher said, however if you have a buddy with a flat-bed tow truck let me know, I can help you more, just IM me. Just a super lengthy explanation. Punisher's idea does work great, but if you do have a buddy much faster.
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