Post by Impin Aint Easy on Mar 19, 2013 14:51:55 GMT -5
Hmm good info.. so the cylinder ram itself acually bends? You would think that it would help brace the draglink... Or does the power cylinder bracket bust up due to it being cast iron?
The only Problem i can see it the pitman arm joint .. but that problem occurs with full manuals steering and I got a fix for that.. I think I might give the Ole Power assist a try with a chevy pump.. I mean if the ram bends no big deal chances are the draglink will be bent as well.. worstcase scenerio it pukes oil into the headers or something.. I am only considering this setup because the rules say it has to be stock.
Post by Impin Aint Easy on Mar 27, 2013 23:57:56 GMT -5
Id get rid of the booster and master.. And use a manual brakes master cylinder with one output line off an 60s ford.. Then use all new line to rearend and use back brakes only.. Wham bam more header clearance,. You could even run the master inside the cab ..
A brake line flaring tool is a good investiment. Then you can make your own and put whatever ends on them that you want.
I ALWAYS JUST USE THE FACTORY BRAKE LINES, CUT TO WHAT EVER LENGTH I NEED WITH TUBING CUTTER, THEN USE UNION COMPRESSION FITTINGS TI CONNECT LINES. ONCE CAR IS DONE, I KEEP ALL USABLE BRAKE LINES FOR FUTURE CARS. THIS WAY ALL I END UP BUYING IS 3/16 UNION COMPRESSION FITTINGS.
I ALSO DO THIS WITH ALL MY POWER STEERING LINES. MIX AND MATCH GM TO FORD TO MOPAR TO GM TO WHATEVER LINES YOU WANT.
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