|
Post by jonesmotorsports on Jan 26, 2013 8:56:02 GMT -5
Get a 351 bb steal the rods and rocker arms, gt40p heads off v8 explorer 96-8 i believe, 80s truck pan so it will fit nicely in cars with a rear mounted drag link, a good cam/ intake and decent carb ... i use a 4 bbl holley off a mid 70s mark lincoln but most any carb your comfortable with and know well will work just dont go too big a 650 is more than plenty any bigger and your just going to make problems for yourself
|
|
|
Post by Comet Cyclone on Jan 26, 2013 9:49:48 GMT -5
96-98 would be the non p heads. Gt40p came out in 98 really. P has a smaller combustion chamber and straight plugs.A non p has angled plugs and larger chambers. Also you need a vic/mustange pan for it to fit in a vic.
|
|
|
Post by 357crawford on Jan 26, 2013 15:27:56 GMT -5
If that is all you have it will work, here is a good combo kinda the same way I built my 351( 302 roller cam block. bore it .035. buy flat top forged .030 pistons throw away the cast ones. the most important thing is change out your rod bolts with the ARP'S "week point" only like 40 bucks. stock bearing and re-ring kit will work just try to match up your bearings to achieve more bearing clearance. gt40p heads from a 98 exploder 59 cc combustion chamber with plenty of flow up to .500 lift any higher lift and your waisting your money they wont flow past that lift unless modded. as for cam you want a short duration like 218 at .050 and .500ish max lift with a 111 lobe separation. any lower lsa and you will narrow your power curve to a shorter rpm range unless that's what you want. I like the wider range of power personally. you max torque will be around 3600 to 4200 rpm no need to rev 6500 rpm with 600 hp all you do is spin your tires faster. edlebrock performer or performer rpm intake will work and an edlebrock 1405 carb there is what I would do
|
|
lincoln
Feature Winner
Posts: 3,175
|
Post by lincoln on Jan 26, 2013 15:42:41 GMT -5
Im a Chevy guy but the above looks like sound advice. If you notice a trend they're all wanting you to have good, low RPM torque. Good low speed power is what you want in a derby motor.
|
|
|
Post by wrecku2 on Jan 27, 2013 19:38:30 GMT -5
Ive ran a 302 wit old school heads 13/16 spark plugs dont know what they came off of not a bunch of power but a set of gears and a 3 speed will take care of that the big issue is make a dp for it to keep it runnin
|
|
|
Post by 357crawford on Jan 27, 2013 22:27:23 GMT -5
I am building a halo and dis protector for my ford 351 but not to protect the distributor alone. It's all ready protected and the higher your front end goes the more its protected. the reason why I am building one is to keep the front end down and use the back of the protector as a sort of wedge up against the firewall like the chevy guys do. all of the promoters here allow the ford guys to run two "DP"s one in front of the distributor and one in the back behind the block where a chevy or mopar distributor would be, so the chevy and mopar guys with the rear mount dists. don't have an extra advantage over us ford guys. so what I am saying is a dp for the distributor on a ford isn't really needed.
|
|
|
Post by nathanxx on Feb 12, 2013 16:03:59 GMT -5
anyone know how big a cam i can go with without having to do any head work? i got a 79 351w out of a couger. going to re ring and all new gaskets and im thinking a cam any suggestions without getting to crazy?
|
|
|
Post by redneckracing12 on Feb 12, 2013 18:33:49 GMT -5
anyone know how big a cam i can go with without having to do any head work? i got a 79 351w out of a couger. going to re ring and all new gaskets and im thinking a cam any suggestions without getting to crazy? find some flow bench data for your heads, figure out what intake you want to run and go from there.
|
|
|
Post by heinz57 on Feb 28, 2013 23:52:12 GMT -5
I have a 351w out of a 1978 LTD, i am replacing the rear main seal, have never done this before, and am looking for any pointers. The motor and tranny are still in the car. I have dropped the pan, and removed the rear bearing/seal cap, and removed what couple little pieces were left of the old seal.
Here is where i need help. The new seal is a hard, 1/2 circle rubber seal and is 2 peices. How do i get the top half of the seal installed? I lubbed it up but could only get it pushed in about 0.25". I don't want to take the engine out or tear it down any further. I will buy if different seal if i have to.
Oh and this is a derby engine.
|
|
|
Post by Comet Cyclone on Mar 1, 2013 0:05:37 GMT -5
It's easiest to pull the crank. However it can be done with it installed or dropping the crank slightly. soak it in motor oil...and put it in flush as in to turn it around the crank not bending the rubber.helps to try to push it in with something and not to mock up the crank though.
|
|
|
Post by heinz57 on Mar 1, 2013 9:34:57 GMT -5
Do you know what torque the bolts should be tightened to? I plan to losen them all a little to get the seal installed.
|
|
|
Post by Comet Cyclone on Mar 1, 2013 16:49:20 GMT -5
don't remember off hand. I believe the crank bolts are 35-45 era. Head bolts are 110 or so just to add for future reference.
|
|
|
Post by bigblocker17x on Mar 1, 2013 19:09:29 GMT -5
im looking at putting a cam in a stock engine this year and itll be my first cam change on my own and in a ford 302 I have vast mechanical knowledge and have build 3 ford 302's from long block up so im not exactly sure on cam and valvetrain, so my question is I want to put a comp 268h cam in my stock engine, I will have to change valvesprings correct? and will I have any problems with pistons hitting the heads etc? because I was also thinking about putting in a thinner head gasket, and will I need to do any other valve train work? and is there anything else I can do while I have the engine apart that will gain me anything? either it be power or cooling? I was planning on just cleaning everything and reassembling the engine with a possible double roller timing chain and a timing cover so that I can run a mechanical fuel pump, am I on the right track?
|
|
|
Post by onlyone on Mar 1, 2013 19:57:51 GMT -5
I would put a set of p heads on it u can find them on 90 mods 302s that in the explorers and u won't have to change the springs and with that cam and a aluminum intake u will have a little something
|
|
|
Post by bigblocker17x on Mar 1, 2013 20:25:15 GMT -5
im thinking about running an aluminum air gap intake I might be able to get from my dad and a holley 650 and its a 89 roller engine will I have to change valve springs? but I haven't seen much about those heads? are they comparable to the gt40/ gt40p heads? or is that what your talking about?
|
|