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Post by skratdogg32 on Dec 19, 2013 18:16:02 GMT -5
it not my first but I built a lot of 80's wagons just never one this old the car will be built to R and R rules
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Post by outlaw717 on Jan 1, 2014 12:35:30 GMT -5
I got a rust free 72 Lincoln. I built a good leaf pack and 8 3/4 rear. Took the I beam shocks off and plated the frame. Welded a mid 70's gm bumper and brakets on welded a arms down solid. Everything looks good don't see why these cars are junk. Guess will find out come spring.
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Post by Luke Wells on Jan 1, 2014 13:44:25 GMT -5
I got a rust free 72 Lincoln. I built a good leaf pack and 8 3/4 rear. Took the I beam shocks off and plated the frame. Welded a mid 70's gm bumper and brakets on welded a arms down solid. Everything looks good don't see why these cars are junk. Guess will find out come spring. I don't think they started using the I beam shock deals until 73-74?
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Post by janssen23x on Jan 26, 2014 16:29:55 GMT -5
Would a 70 Lincoln continental be good in a chain n go.....weld bumper welded cage and drives door and you can weld the rear end
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Post by aoldfart on Jan 26, 2014 19:49:01 GMT -5
I would run it. May not be the best, but should be fun! My Son ran a 69 and did well with it. Make sure you do something to keep the throttle cable on the carb linkage.
Steve
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Post by janssen23x on Jan 26, 2014 19:58:34 GMT -5
Ok it's also a 2 door if that helps...I heard the trunk goes easy is there any thing I can to make it go better..like dimpling or per bending
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Post by janssen23x on Jan 26, 2014 19:59:00 GMT -5
Pre bending
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Post by aoldfart on Jan 27, 2014 18:28:07 GMT -5
We pre-bent ours about 6" from the taillights, fender to fender. Seemed to work pretty good.
Steve
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Post by DJFourX on Mar 1, 2014 19:28:35 GMT -5
67 thunderbird any good for limited weld rules ?
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Post by outlaw717 on Mar 14, 2014 8:11:43 GMT -5
70 Lincoln notch that car 14 inches from the end of the frame rails tuck the trunk lid down inside and bolt it to the floor. weld hump plates so they don't kink. throw a chain from left hump to right hump so they don't split and run it until the trunk is pack in to ur gas tank. that's a fun nite.
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Post by 686racing on Mar 20, 2014 10:08:38 GMT -5
well since I am always looking for a challenge.. after reading post after post after post of how ALL 65-72 are junk i figured I would build one.. and i will post pictures... before and after .. and see.. its only time and money that I'm wasting.... so here we go we are going to start with a fairly clean 1968 Lincoln mark III.. motor and trans was gone when I got it.. plans are to run the factory 9 3/8 rear with a 9inch center section and some gears. the rules are pretty stock no heavy welding .. simple 4 point cage.. tuck trunk notch rear rails.. 3 on 10 off weld doors and like 4 inches of weld total on the bumper... now got it pretty much stripped front panel/bumper is off.. more to come ..
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Post by 686racing on Mar 24, 2014 14:32:35 GMT -5
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Post by 686racing on Apr 3, 2014 7:34:40 GMT -5
latest update.. I don't get to work much on this car at this time work schedule is tough but I did get the rear about done.. were allowed to tuck and 2 of the 4 trunk hold downs can be around the bumper.. The rear frame is C channel and makes a natural sweep up about 8 inches from the rear mount so I think I am just going to leave it I also have started to put the motor in... and wow not fun.. putting a SBC in.. the firewall is going to have to be cut out and maybe even some of the trans tunnel to make room and for the motor to sit level. these have rear steering components for those who don't know.. you can buy drop down center links to make it easier but i am not going that route. The next step before I actually cut the firewall is to get my dash bar in ..
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Post by runit28 on Jun 26, 2014 14:27:39 GMT -5
Just picked up a 69 lincoln continental mark III with the 460 and C6. Any help or ideas for a stock run derby would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
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Post by STROMI 121 on Jun 26, 2014 21:18:38 GMT -5
latest update.. I don't get to work much on this car at this time work schedule is tough but I did get the rear about done.. were allowed to tuck and 2 of the 4 trunk hold downs can be around the bumper.. The rear frame is C channel and makes a natural sweep up about 8 inches from the rear mount so I think I am just going to leave it I also have started to put the motor in... and wow not fun.. putting a SBC in.. the firewall is going to have to be cut out and maybe even some of the trans tunnel to make room and for the motor to sit level. these have rear steering components for those who don't know.. you can buy drop down center links to make it easier but i am not going that route. The next step before I actually cut the firewall is to get my dash bar in .. I have no actual experience to offer because I have never put a SBC in an old Ford. However could you heat and bend the idler arm and pitman arm to lower the drag link for clearance like you have to do on a Cadillac? Also a porta power and BFH can help a ton with firewall clearance on most cars. I'm not sure on these cars. Cutting might be the best/easiest option especially if not running a DP or trans brace.
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