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Post by 383 Sonoma on Nov 22, 2018 11:24:55 GMT -5
No way... the meth will cause your water pump to lose all its teeth.... 😂😂
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Post by sheffield2 on Nov 22, 2018 16:55:38 GMT -5
No way... the meth will cause your water pump to lose all its teeth.... 😂😂 Lmao I’ll get it some fake replacement for it
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Post by dean88 on Nov 22, 2018 17:28:58 GMT -5
I've been curious as well. A buddy of mine has a Holley water meth kit new in the box from the late 70s.
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Post by Luke Wells on Nov 22, 2018 18:08:06 GMT -5
I know next to nothing about water methanol injection, but I thought they almost always used them on engines with boost?
No idea if that's a requirement or just because that are almost always on high performance engines.
Please don't crucify me for the questioning, I'm just curious too.
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Post by dean88 on Nov 22, 2018 19:12:24 GMT -5
I dont know much about it in gasoline applications except for the fact some WW2 nazi aircraft used it and the factory turbo oldsmobile cars in the 60s had it.
Now I do have some experience with it in the diesel world and it can and does lower your exhaust temps a couple hundred degrees when running wide open and does boost power a little bit because of the added fuel (methanol) and the water expanding and turning into steam "increases" compression.
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Post by sheffield2 on Nov 23, 2018 0:08:51 GMT -5
Well I’m going to trying it this up coming year I’m going to run two of the snow performance. #3 nozzles which are 175 ml a piece and see what happens with about a 70 % water 30% meth mixture sounds like that low of volume couldn’t hurt anything
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Post by klicky96 on Nov 23, 2018 7:23:48 GMT -5
Just use blue -20 washer fluid. That's all we run in ours for our racetrucks.
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Post by sheffield2 on Nov 23, 2018 10:44:51 GMT -5
Just use blue -20 washer fluid. That's all we run in ours for our racetrucks. That is the plan if under stand correct it’s about 70 30
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Post by dean88 on Nov 23, 2018 11:53:50 GMT -5
Are you going to buy a kit, or are you going to piece together a homemade system?
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Post by barn78 on Nov 23, 2018 13:01:20 GMT -5
I dont know much about it in gasoline applications except for the fact some WW2 nazi aircraft used it and the factory turbo oldsmobile cars in the 60s had it. Now I do have some experience with it in the diesel world and it can and does lower your exhaust temps a couple hundred degrees when running wide open and does boost power a little bit because of the added fuel (methanol) and the water expanding and turning into steam "increases" compression. Not trying to start a fight, but your statement is not accurate. The purpose of methanol/water injection is to lower intake temperatures and control detonation (grant it this does lead to lower exhaust temperatures). It does not increase compression, it actually increases the force applied during the power stroke. This occurs from the steam expanding. Another benefit also comes from the steam cleaning the pistons etc. It is most commonly used on forced induction engines due to increased charge air temperatures. I am not sure if you would see any benefit in a derby application.
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Post by dean88 on Nov 23, 2018 13:14:15 GMT -5
I was having a brain fart I didn't exactly mean "compression", I was trying to say increase of pressure during the power stroke due to the steam expanding. The only reason I ever messed with it was to help my towing EGTs on a 6.4 that could get a little excessive
It cooling down the air coming in is the only reason I've ever though about running on a derby motor to see if it helps when the motor itself is outrageously hot and the intake is super heated. But as you said I've only seen it run on boosted engines never a low compression NA motor.
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Post by sheffield2 on Nov 23, 2018 15:59:09 GMT -5
Are you going to buy a kit, or are you going to piece together a homemade system? I’m going to piece together my own system my thinking is when you lose a radiator and your motor starts pinging and pre detonating. The water will cool it enough to restore power and make it run longer almost the same concept as the oil squirt but instead of using the piston to transfer heat to the oil The water would absorb some heat before it even made it to the piston a Lower egt and. Intake temp could only bennafit imo
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Post by beefybuilt104 on Dec 3, 2018 11:58:47 GMT -5
So I have a few questions, I did read all 98 pages and didn’t find my answers. I am building a 350 to throw in a Vic I’m throwing together for a show in the spring time. I don’t want a huge powerhouse, just want it to be reliable and stay running, and restart when hot. I picked up a 355 010 block with vortec heads off craigslist. Yes they are vortec heads and not tbi heads. They’re 062. Seems to be a good base engine to start with, the guy said it was recently rebuilt which I believe him after opening it up because it is in very good shape and not a lot of wear on parts. I wanted to go through it myself to see what I have and am starting with. Somehow I lucked out and it came with a comp 268 which is what I was going to buy anyway seems to be the more recommended cam by guys on here who’s opinion I trust after reading their posts.
What kind of bearings are you guys using? And what to do for clearances on the bearings? Running stock clearances or opening them up to make room for expansion?
Also as far as ring gap I am sure guys are opening the clearances a bit but don’t know how much would be beneficial?
Any other tips on things I am missing would be appreciated, also i know that a lot of trial and research goes into everybody’s engines and am not asking for people to get out their notebooks and spill secrets. Just looking for a push in the right direction. I’m sure I missed crucial info to help with answers, seems to happen when you’re being put on the spot lol
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Post by smashford on Dec 7, 2018 1:34:53 GMT -5
Joker listed his specs for the ring gap and bearing gap btw
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Post by beefybuilt104 on Dec 7, 2018 5:56:37 GMT -5
I must have missed that
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