i was really getting in to reading the old thread so lets get this going again. i was wondering what all parts interchange with other engines ie will parts from an LS1 fit on an LQ9 and so on? i read a lot that you guys are running the edelbrock electronic box but do you guys get as much power running the hei conversion as you would the box?
msd is 10x better than a the dist by far. you cant get max timming with a dist and most newer moxed you can write your own timming curve. 0 degrees to get it started when hot and 40 degrees for max power when on hte floor. also you can have it at 0 degrees up till 2500 when your just idling around to not make heat. Technology is a wonderfull thing if your smart enough to understand it and commit to it.
sorry about the misunderstanding, you really have been a big help on answering some questions that i have been wanting to ask. i considered the HEI conversion but i am taking a second thought on the electronic ignition.
i dont sugest the HEI to anyone, that motor is way to long for any of my derby applications and gives up a ton of power and is much more expensive. I have done both and spent a ton less on the msd version and have had no sensor failures. the motor actually only needs the crank trigger to run. the map is needed and the cam is too but after its fired and running you can smash the cam and map sensors and get yourself to the end of a derby. run rough, yes but make it to the end. that MSD box is bulletproof. i have puropsly left mine uncovered and outside for 2 years now to see if i can get something to fail.
i dont really know what fade in energy over time is but i have derbied a specific set for a few derbies and over 50 hrs of endurance racing at over 7000. there are no issues with the electronics. if you dont have an issue with an HEI coil then i would never expect to have one with the coil over deals. they are twice the quality of the junk HEI stuff.
Post by squarerootracing on Aug 10, 2011 8:25:59 GMT -5
One little thing after another has slowed me down... It will be mobile test driving behind the shop next week. I am ready to see what kind of power it makes!!
You don't have any extra water crossover tubes laying around do you joker? I need one for the back so I can plumb front of heads with rear. Otherwise I will just run front crossover to the water pump. Salvage yard here wasn't willing to take one off a complete motor.
I thought they had a tendency to trap air bubbles in the heads if you don't run them?
Not sure where that thought keeps coming from, not the case ever, unless the radiator cap is lower than the head. those tubes are for warming up the hrottle body only. if no throttle body i cap them off. i do though crack them open when filling the motor up with water but not necessary. The designers i talk to say they are just for the throttle body and are not on the newer engines anymore. Its like the guys running coolant tubes from the back of the head to the front of the intake on small blocks. There is no flow there. it is non directional at that point. If people understood anything about fluid dynamics they wouldnt do half the stupid sh!t they do with cooling systems.
Same as the crankcase vent tubes in the headers. JOKE! Those were originally designed by some guys at Rher-Morison before Buddy died to be able to run super light rings that would create blow by if not used in a dry sump engine. It was built for a UMP mod which were not dry sump and they though they would put dry sump rings and gas ported pistons in a wet sump engine and if they added the crank case vent tubes and the angle of them was right, the VE was high enough in the engine and the exhaust pipe was the perfect size they could create a low enough pressure in the crankcase that it would suck the piston rings tight and seal. It worked. Rings are 95% of the friction in an engine and if you can kill off some of the tension your makin power. As for derby guys sticking them in thir pipes at 90 degrees and stock cast rings and 4" collectors...........................you know what im gonna say.