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Post by carson29 on Jun 18, 2012 10:33:48 GMT -5
On the name plate it says 4412-3 or 4412-2 but it might be the finish like you said but I don't know. On ebay some say stage 2 or 3. I just need to know if they all will fit a SBM.
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Post by chevykillerx13 on Jun 23, 2012 0:33:08 GMT -5
Love my Mopars but don't know alot on the differences in the A and LA engines. Looking at a suspected 318 A engine. Are these any better or worse than its LA sibling? I've been doing searches on parts interchange-ability and alot seems that it will work, but i don't want to dump money into an older style engine if its going to leave me dead in the water. I know the heads are different, as are some timing covers and water pumps, but from there is there much difference?
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WILSON'S INC.
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I am so sick of resto guys wasting good derby parts.
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Post by WILSON'S INC. on Jun 23, 2012 22:53:12 GMT -5
I just picked up an 85 prospector with a black valve covers, no paint on the motor, blue balancer and blue pan. I know mopar did some weird shit but is this possible to be original, or more likely that work was done to it.
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dm440c
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Post by dm440c on Jun 25, 2012 10:47:14 GMT -5
Love my Mopars but don't know alot on the differences in the A and LA engines. Looking at a suspected 318 A engine. Are these any better or worse than its LA sibling? I've been doing searches on parts interchange-ability and alot seems that it will work, but i don't want to dump money into an older style engine if its going to leave me dead in the water. I know the heads are different, as are some timing covers and water pumps, but from there is there much difference? the A version of the 318 is a great derby engine in some respects because, just like the LA version, it is tough and runs forever. Makes good power too. The down side is the size, it takes up a lot of space in there and it is a bit harder to find parts for. If you have one I wouldn't have any hesitations about running it, preferably in a full size car so that the space requirement is less of a big deal. Have a buddy that runs them a lot and even in a Y frame car he had to chop off the top of the shock tower to make room for the headers... He went back to running them old school with stock iron manifolds pointed down and loves the results. You can make an LA transmission fit with a little clearance work.
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Post by mkvien on Jun 25, 2012 14:18:40 GMT -5
Love my Mopars but don't know alot on the differences in the A and LA engines. Looking at a suspected 318 A engine. Are these any better or worse than its LA sibling? I've been doing searches on parts interchange-ability and alot seems that it will work, but i don't want to dump money into an older style engine if its going to leave me dead in the water. I know the heads are different, as are some timing covers and water pumps, but from there is there much difference? the A version of the 318 is a great derby engine in some respects because, just like the LA version, it is tough and runs forever. Makes good power too. The down side is the size, it takes up a lot of space in there and it is a bit harder to find parts for. If you have one I wouldn't have any hesitations about running it, preferably in a full size car so that the space requirement is less of a big deal. Have a buddy that runs them a lot and even in a Y frame car he had to chop off the top of the shock tower to make room for the headers... He went back to running them old school with stock iron manifolds pointed down and loves the results. You can make an LA transmission fit with a little clearance work. Our olds school was open heads, no exhaust at all. Ran them like that for the first 10 years of my career. Probably didn't get my first seat of headers on a derby car until after 2000.
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dm440c
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Post by dm440c on Jun 26, 2012 10:24:38 GMT -5
Our olds school was open heads, no exhaust at all. Ran them like that for the first 10 years of my career. Probably didn't get my first seat of headers on a derby car until after 2000. for the record.... for the people reading the tips and looking for ideas.... be aware that this is risky behavior, the conventional wisdom of engine design says a few things about why this is risky and most notable is the opportunity to draw relatively cool air against a really hot exhaust valve and causing catastrophic damage. Among other things, such as an insanely higher risk of engine fire. He did it for 10 years and I wouldn't argue against the possibility that you could do it for 100 years and not have a failure, it's certainly possible, but it's also possible that you could jump out a window and land on a pillow truck. I would always recommend some kind of controlled exhaust gas management device on your derby engine.
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Post by mkvien on Jun 26, 2012 10:37:27 GMT -5
Our olds school was open heads, no exhaust at all. Ran them like that for the first 10 years of my career. Probably didn't get my first seat of headers on a derby car until after 2000. for the record.... for the people reading the tips and looking for ideas.... be aware that this is risky behavior, the conventional wisdom of engine design says a few things about why this is risky and most notable is the opportunity to draw relatively cool air against a really hot exhaust valve and causing catastrophic damage. Among other things, such as an insanely higher risk of engine fire. He did it for 10 years and I wouldn't argue against the possibility that you could do it for 100 years and not have a failure, it's certainly possible, but it's also possible that you could jump out a window and land on a pillow truck. I would always recommend some kind of controlled exhaust gas management device on your derby engine. "the preceding was a public service message brought to you by dmc incorporated, now back to your regularly scheduled program"
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Post by mkvien on Jun 26, 2012 10:42:41 GMT -5
Our olds school was open heads, no exhaust at all. Ran them like that for the first 10 years of my career. Probably didn't get my first seat of headers on a derby car until after 2000. for the record.... for the people reading the tips and looking for ideas.... be aware that this is risky behavior, the conventional wisdom of engine design says a few things about why this is risky and most notable is the opportunity to draw relatively cool air against a really hot exhaust valve and causing catastrophic damage. Among other things, such as an insanely higher risk of engine fire. He did it for 10 years and I wouldn't argue against the possibility that you could do it for 100 years and not have a failure, it's certainly possible, but it's also possible that you could jump out a window and land on a pillow truck. I would always recommend some kind of controlled exhaust gas management device on your derby engine. There are some issues (and risks) with it, of course. I remember running them until the heads were glowing around the ports and the valves looked like those glow sticks in the cool night air. Honestly, probably just didn't know better, but around here I bet half or more of the cars in out 50-70 car local derby ran this way for many years (probably from sometime in the 1980's until the early 2000's for some), never really an issue, at least not from the fire perspective. As far as the engines not living, a good part of those engines lived with the cars they were in, and died with them after the derby, so who knows what they would have been like after a few runs.
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dm440c
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Post by dm440c on Jun 27, 2012 12:11:26 GMT -5
yeah I wondered about that... I wondered if that was back in the days when you ran the engine that came with the car and threw it all away after one run sheesh, in those days we would scrap a car that only ran half a heat because the thinking was that you needed every hit that a fresh car had in it, why would you go into battle wounded? Or to think of the great running engines that got tossed after one run for the same reason... kinda hurts a little now to think about it but at the time people were giving cars away if you would do them the favor of towing it out of their yard so it seemed to make sense. ...but you know how the "kids these days" are, If I didn't speak up about it then for sure somebody would read that part and then be on here afterwards bitc#ing about how the poly 318's suck because the valves break on the second run
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21R
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Post by 21R on Jun 27, 2012 22:16:09 GMT -5
Buddy has an 87 318. We are. Replacing the carb. We have a 2 barrel Rochester to put on it but can't find an adapter for it. Everyone is saying to replace the intake off a 360 but I don't think you can do that without pullin the heads too. Any info on what I should do or check into. Willing to try anything. Derby is in a month but we aren't touching the car till we get motor running top notch.
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Post by mkvien on Jun 28, 2012 9:12:51 GMT -5
Buddy has an 87 318. We are. Replacing the carb. We have a 2 barrel Rochester to put on it but can't find an adapter for it. Everyone is saying to replace the intake off a 360 but I don't think you can do that without pullin the heads too. Any info on what I should do or check into. Willing to try anything. Derby is in a month but we aren't touching the car till we get motor running top notch. The adapters for that don't exist as far as I know. With a chunk of aluminum and the base gaskets from each of the 2 patterns you can make your own. You have to drill and countersink the holes to attatch to the manifold, and then drill and tap the holes to mount the carb to it.
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dm440c
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Post by dm440c on Jun 28, 2012 10:43:14 GMT -5
You can use a 360 intake, it's a bit of a port mismatch but this isn't a drag race so if you have a 360 intake handy it may be the fastest way to get the job done and finish the rest of the car since you are on a time limit.
or for an even faster solution you can get a different carb.... a chevy 283 carb will fit the 318 manifold.... also you can get an adapter to fit either a 4 bbl or a Holley 4412 carb to the 318 manifold... or just get a 318 carb
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Post by mkvien on Jun 28, 2012 13:25:14 GMT -5
You can use a 360 intake, it's a bit of a port mismatch but this isn't a drag race so if you have a 360 intake handy it may be the fastest way to get the job done and finish the rest of the car since you are on a time limit. or for an even faster solution you can get a different carb.... a chevy 283 carb will fit the 318 manifold.... also you can get an adapter to fit either a 4 bbl or a Holley 4412 carb to the 318 manifold... or just get a 318 carb We ran those little Carters on 318's for ever, nothing really wrong with that carb.
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21R
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Post by 21R on Jun 28, 2012 14:17:48 GMT -5
Thanks guys. Much appreciated
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Post by redmond on Jul 7, 2012 1:59:39 GMT -5
can i ask if building a derby motor is honestly worth it? i have built several different engine for different applications, my question is, would it be better to just do a stock rebuild on say a 318 or 360 then to, cam it, port heads and so on and so forth, i mean in my circle track car, i have cracked heads, flattened cams, blown engines, i know circle track racing is alittle harder on an engine, with the motor being rapped out to 7-8 all night, but when i race derby cars, i pretty much stay on it hard till the motor shuts down, i was reading up on the chevy engine tips and some of those guys, dump so serious money into there motor. i can understand, some of the engine builds, i have seen online, but some of these guys dump thousands in to a derby motor. i personally have had extremely good luck with my 360/904, and there completely stock.
i was figuring a good running motor,and a set of gears, would be all a guy would need, but honestly i don't know and that's why I'm asking,
i have a buddy that runs a built up 327, he's running 11.5 to pistons I'm not sure of what cam he's using, its a good looking motor, and it sounds mean when you run with him, and he has all the power in the world, but his motor runs hot, and after about 10 minutes, he's shut down, and I'm still smashing. i remember reading on the original web site, people had there own proving build, and theory's of there perfect build, i was wondering if i could get your guys opinions, i know everyone has one, i would like to get some ideas before i start ordering parts.
thank you guys for your time,
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