Post by ukbangerdan on Dec 19, 2012 4:27:35 GMT -5
For the 240's if you're allowed to in the US rules, over here in the UK if you run it on the original engine your best bet is to first always change the timing belt as the original ones we have found aren't best once they've stood the test of time in the cars life. Also, a cam guard, like a distributor guard, is a good idea. We use an engine cradle to house a Ford Granada 2.8 V6 engine and gear box, they go really well with one in.
The sedans aren't as good as the estates, the back ends can go a bit funny and push into the wheels & axle so you might be better off sticking with the wagons. Weld/bolt a chain to each end of the frame on the rear, when the back folds up you can use the chain to pull the back end back out, be best then to cut and make adjustments so that the back will then bend upwards as they can bend downwards if you're getting hit while stationary or by a higher riding car. The rear end of volvos, strange as it sounds, can be stronger once its bent up and pulled out! The struts are the main problem but here in the UK there's stacks of spares for them so changing a strut between races if need be isn't too much of a tall order.
If the rules permit it, strengthen the bottom arms by welding a plate over the arm but so as not to exceed the size of the arm. Cut/bend the front wings so that they are relatively square as having them square and bolted is stronger than beaten off round with a hammer or just cut up completely. The original bumpers won't be much good, we usually just don't run a bumper or bolt a section of crush tubing or something similar through the chassis, bolted not welded.
Secure the trunk lid with seat belt webbing & bolt it at the top of the lid on a sedan, welding it solid would cause it to bend funny I'd imagine? With the passenger doors, make a cut through the doors and floor close to the door just big enough to run a length of seat belt webbing through the door, floor & around the door sill to stop the door coming in on a tbone.
Secure the hood properly with box section welded upright to the chassis with solid threaded steel tubing running through it & then secured at the top through a hole in the hood with plates and spinner winged nuts. Weld triangle steel plates from the fenders and along the top of the bulk head over the corner of the bonnet, that should help keep the front end together and stop the bonnet coming back when you hit something hard.
Just a few things we do on them for bangers!
The sedans aren't as good as the estates, the back ends can go a bit funny and push into the wheels & axle so you might be better off sticking with the wagons. Weld/bolt a chain to each end of the frame on the rear, when the back folds up you can use the chain to pull the back end back out, be best then to cut and make adjustments so that the back will then bend upwards as they can bend downwards if you're getting hit while stationary or by a higher riding car. The rear end of volvos, strange as it sounds, can be stronger once its bent up and pulled out! The struts are the main problem but here in the UK there's stacks of spares for them so changing a strut between races if need be isn't too much of a tall order.
If the rules permit it, strengthen the bottom arms by welding a plate over the arm but so as not to exceed the size of the arm. Cut/bend the front wings so that they are relatively square as having them square and bolted is stronger than beaten off round with a hammer or just cut up completely. The original bumpers won't be much good, we usually just don't run a bumper or bolt a section of crush tubing or something similar through the chassis, bolted not welded.
Secure the trunk lid with seat belt webbing & bolt it at the top of the lid on a sedan, welding it solid would cause it to bend funny I'd imagine? With the passenger doors, make a cut through the doors and floor close to the door just big enough to run a length of seat belt webbing through the door, floor & around the door sill to stop the door coming in on a tbone.
Secure the hood properly with box section welded upright to the chassis with solid threaded steel tubing running through it & then secured at the top through a hole in the hood with plates and spinner winged nuts. Weld triangle steel plates from the fenders and along the top of the bulk head over the corner of the bonnet, that should help keep the front end together and stop the bonnet coming back when you hit something hard.
Just a few things we do on them for bangers!