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Post by C4 on Aug 21, 2012 15:00:00 GMT -5
Remove axle from car, remove boot from inner cv joint. Push tripod into cup, so it is not sticking out. Weld plates across cup, so joint can never again be separated. Reinstall axle with no boot.
You could try to reinstall a boot, but not much point, unless your axles have to appear stock.
Your inner joints are now bullet proof. Outer ones are still vulnerable, but the don't break nearly as often.
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Jull
Future Icon
Posts: 55
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Post by Jull on Aug 21, 2012 15:31:26 GMT -5
Anybody have tips on motor mounts? I'm trying to get my Reliant ready for a second round
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Post by jerry79 on Aug 21, 2012 23:12:37 GMT -5
Remove axle from car, remove boot from inner cv joint. Push tripod into cup, so it is not sticking out. Weld plates across cup, so joint can never again be separated. Reinstall axle with no boot. You could try to reinstall a boot, but not much point, unless your axles have to appear stock. Your inner joints are now bullet proof. Outer ones are still vulnerable, but the don't break nearly as often. Can't picture what you are saying. We have been running Toyota's and have not had to deal with cv joints. I'll have to take the axle out and then I might have more questions
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Post by C4 on Aug 21, 2012 23:17:07 GMT -5
I might have one laying around. IF I do, I'll snap a pic.
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Post by C4 on Aug 22, 2012 10:40:58 GMT -5
It would seem that I don't have a pre fabbed one laying about. If you pull the boot back on the inner cv, and read the instructions carefully, it will explain itself. The first time it was explained to me, that's what I had to do.
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Post by blitz4 on Aug 22, 2012 22:31:58 GMT -5
funny question- has anyone ran a PT Loser(cruiser)?
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Post by C4 on Aug 22, 2012 22:35:30 GMT -5
^^^^Ron Lovell from KS. He is on here ocassionally as luggnutz. Ran against it last December.
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Post by jerry79 on Aug 23, 2012 19:15:14 GMT -5
It would seem that I don't have a pre fabbed one laying about. If you pull the boot back on the inner cv, and read the instructions carefully, it will explain itself. The first time it was explained to me, that's what I had to do. I'll figure it out. It will be a few weeks before I get to that car anyway, just figured since it came up I would ask. Thanks.
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Post by blitz4 on Aug 26, 2012 22:22:34 GMT -5
^^^^Ron Lovell from KS. He is on here ocassionally as luggnutz. Ran against it last December. We got a deerslayer special in our shop right now that the owners dont want to pay the fees on. Would it be a decent one for a STOCK mini car derby for my son? 8 more days and its ours......
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Post by C4 on Aug 27, 2012 0:01:47 GMT -5
Probably. Where I seen it run, we weren't stock, but weren't full weld either. It was pre ran when it got there, and still straight on both ends when it left with a broken cv. It had gotten 1st out 10-15 at it's first show.
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Post by crowell on Aug 27, 2012 18:31:57 GMT -5
95 chrysler lebaron. any good for derby? tips on build and also for front bumper adding one from 77 chevelle good choice ?
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Post by Leadfoot on Aug 27, 2012 20:59:52 GMT -5
I am running a 95 neon in a compact figure 8. Should I crease the body panels and doors? I am running a post to post bar, door plates, welded on caravan bumper and dummy tires on rear.
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Vito324
Feature Winner
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Posts: 2,189
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Post by Vito324 on Aug 31, 2012 17:37:35 GMT -5
Anybody know how to eliminate wires on a 3.0 V6 or have a wiring diagram?? Thanks..
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Post by crowell on Sept 3, 2012 22:28:17 GMT -5
good question on 3.0 wiring diagram also needed for 95 lebaron with 3.0
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dm440c
Feature Winner
derby drivers against drama- there's no crying in demo derby!
Posts: 2,824
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Post by dm440c on Sept 4, 2012 11:50:09 GMT -5
I can tell you this much about the 3.0L I've been working on in a 91 Acclaim....
- I moved the engine computer from the inside of the driver's fender to the cowl where the wiper motor used to be. The harness will reach if you relocate the body ground to the strut tower, simply drill a new hole and bolt the ground loops down. I cut off most of the extra plastic around it that used to be the intake tube but left some structure to protect the computer.
- there are 4 relays on the inner driver's fender / strut tower: fuel pump, starter, fan, and air conditioning. By playing around with a test light and jumper wires I figured out and labeled each, then chopped out everything but the the starter relay.
- I hotwired the fuel pump with a direct wire from the battery to bypass all vehicle wiring and controls that may interfere with the fuel pump
-To eliminate the neutral safety switch: look at the starter relay terminal that has two little wires on the same terminal. This is the ground side of the signal and it is only grounded when the trans is in neutral or park through the neutral safety switch. I spliced in to these and ran a new ground direct to the body, now you can start it in any gear with the key.
- ALTERNATE: if you want to run your own start button instead of the key, you can just splice it into the relay here. OR clip out the one wire running from the relay to the starter and make that your direct hot wire to the starter.
- the little electrical box on the inside of the core support between the radiator and the headlight is an airbag sensor. Just disconnect this on both sides.
- There is another computer on the inside of the passenger fender that I think is for the airbag. It looks like the engine computer but it is on the opposite side. I unplugged it in all three places and the car still seems to run ok so I guess it isn't needed.
- also on the passenger fender is the charcoal canister for the fuel system, I traced the two vacuum hoses coming from it to the intake and plugged them off at the intake.
- I removed the cruise control actuator and traced the vacuum hose from it to where it draws vacuum at the brake booster and plugged that port. Right next to that is the vacuum port for the heater controls so I plugged that too. Now the only vacuum lead goes from the intake to the booster.
Now, I have a question about these cars.... there is zero room in between the radiator and the engine on this v6 car. I mean none, the first hit seems guaranteed to bust it so I'm thinking of running a loop line instead. Am I thinking right or do the radiators miraculously stay intact in these cars?
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