Good cars. We have run two mid 90's 2dr hatchbacks. Rear ends don't last long unless you weld weld weld weld weld heat beat and weld. They tend to have a crush point at the same point on both sides for the rear frame. It's a good idea to brake the strut towers with angle if you do a lot of welding. Sheet metal is really chincy and tears easy but with a good 4 point cage and downbars you can drive with the front all day long....but they need a 80's ford bumper or better. Tie rods tend to stretch or bend and not brake so putting angle iron on them is up to you. Core supports are pretty wimpy as well....really tuff and easy car to build especially if you are allowed to load em....thats about all we've learned so far.
Post by jesihohnecker on Sept 14, 2011 23:23:37 GMT -5
sorry, I skimmed through the pages and didn't notice another thread. I learned tonight that he tried to build a wagon a few years ago and a hatchback about 6 years ago. On the hatchback, the rear strut towers rusted out completely before the demo. What would be the best way to reinforce them, if they aren't completely gone? On the wagon he tried to build, a misguided hammer smashed the computer...what ford bumper would you recommend? The tie rods on the wagon he has now are stretched already according to the mechanic.
well for tie rods most rules say you can brace them so weld some rod on the whole thing one ending on the rod end and the other end ending on your rod wen and skip weld the whole way. As a bumper use a fox body mustang rear bumper for a front. when putting the front bumper on make sure you have all the old stuff off there is a black plate looking thing that is like brackets that needs to go once that is removed weld it right to the unibody and you have a good hard front. also remove the rivet in the top of the sturt tower to allow your camber to float that way a wheel shot wont always bend your strut it will give it wiggle room.
If your bumper has to remain true to it's colors............
If your rules are a soft build (no weld or limited weld), Pinto, Maverick, Granada, Mustang 2, box Crown Vic, early 80's T-bird are decent choices. Even the rear bumpers from these choices are decent if they are not crusted out. If your rules are a stiff build...74-78 full size Ford...LTD, Torino, etc.
Clinton Krueger Sedgwick County, Colorado Be stronger than your excuses.
There is a wire harness that runs through the driver side fender, kind of an important one. There is what I believe to be a ignition control module on the drivers side strut tower, that needs moved. Definitely move the battery into the car. On the firewall on the pass side there are 2 maybe 3 relays, move those over more as they are kind of behind the strut. There is also a inertia switch located on either of the rear strut towers( I've seen them on either side on the wagons). You need to either wire the fuel pump up through a switch directly from the battery, or just cut that inertia switch off, and twist the wires together.