west6
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Bryan West
Posts: 574
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Post by west6 on Aug 20, 2014 8:44:56 GMT -5
Super m I just welded angle iron in mine . I broke right about the two bottom bolts where t meets the hub assemble. I'm going to pipe the next set I run
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west6
Heat Winner
Bryan West
Posts: 574
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Post by west6 on Aug 20, 2014 9:10:23 GMT -5
On*
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west6
Heat Winner
Bryan West
Posts: 574
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Post by west6 on Aug 20, 2014 9:16:06 GMT -5
Let me revise that last post since it didn't make any sense haha.
Super m I just welded angle iron on mine. It broke right by the two bottom bolts where it meets the hub assembly. I'm going to pipe the next set I run
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west6
Heat Winner
Bryan West
Posts: 574
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Post by west6 on Aug 20, 2014 20:25:00 GMT -5
We have back to back night this weekend. Gonna let it be for Friday then go from there
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Post by ford47 on Aug 27, 2014 15:06:55 GMT -5
I have a 1998 mustang. No rust at all. It has the stock 3.8 automatic in it. Do you think I should do anything to the 3.8 or just strip it throw some headers on it and drive it like that? I'm open to any tips or ideas. I would rather not switch it out so if you have any tips on what I should do to it that'd be great. and what should I do with the body? I figured I'd run 14s on the rear and 15s on the front. I got a couple good solid bumpers for it. Where I live we run smash it rules.
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Post by ford47 on Aug 27, 2014 15:07:54 GMT -5
We have back to back night this weekend. Gonna let it be for Friday then go from there How did your car hold up? would like to see pictures?
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Post by hitman23 on Aug 27, 2014 15:15:29 GMT -5
you could try running the 3.8 but the ones I have seen don't like heat and blow head gaskets, if its a 1 run and done than go for it
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Post by ford47 on Aug 27, 2014 16:30:45 GMT -5
you could try running the 3.8 but the ones I have seen don't like heat and blow head gaskets, if its a 1 run and done than go for it Okay that's what I was thinking. I plan for the body to last for awhile but i figured it wouldn't hurt to run the 3.8 first then if it blows i'll just swap the motor out and keep running the car
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Post by ford47 on Aug 27, 2014 21:07:56 GMT -5
Okay that's what I was thinking. I plan for the body to last for awhile but i figured it wouldn't hurt to run the 3.8 first then if it blows i'll just swap the motor out and keep running the car This was my approach on my 96 with 3.8 and 5 speed. 4 runs later the little bugger is still holding together. As long as water was in it, the thing actually worked pretty well. On the last run the radiator let go. Once water was gone it lasted about ten more minutes then gave up. Let it cool off and it fired right back up and is ready to go again. #1 thing. Reinforce struts and tie rods, these will most likely take you out before stock engine does if not addressed. Okay thank you I will go with the stock motor for now and see how that goes. I will make sure to reinforce it and should I lower the rear end or weld the suspension solid with the car even from front to back?
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Post by ford47 on Aug 27, 2014 22:11:54 GMT -5
It looks like it has a couple more runs in it. Where do you run it at? and in what type of shows?
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Post by ford47 on Aug 28, 2014 1:44:44 GMT -5
It will be ran again next year for sure. 3 different drivers already, hard to say who will drive it next time. Run in eastern South Dakota. Majority of the cars are front wheel drive GM. Has one win, one 2nd, and two 3rd so far. Is actually getting better in many ways. Runs 1-3 were 112" and under shows. Run 4 was an under 105" show that was won by a Buick Regal with 109" wheelbase. (Tape measure was too hard for judges to read evidently) Well at least it shows it can hold its own against bigger cars. I'm stoked to see how mine will do once it is done. I'm hoping to get it done for bash next year. So did you do anything to the stock engine at all?
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Post by ford47 on Aug 28, 2014 10:46:00 GMT -5
On the 3.8 I did standard derby engine prep. Remove thermostat, new plugs, wires, clean mass air flow sensor, clean every sensor connector, oil/filter, etc. I also replaced took out the a/c compressor and put a pulley in it's place. I pulled the air intake out the hood because it was about 1/2" away from the serpentine belt. Okay sounds good to be just making sure you didn't add anything. I figured I'd do all that so I think I'll be good. Ill try to keep you updated on here and get pics of the car but itll probably be a little while.
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Post by ford47 on Aug 28, 2014 10:46:54 GMT -5
On the 3.8 I did standard derby engine prep. Remove thermostat, new plugs, wires, clean mass air flow sensor, clean every sensor connector, oil/filter, etc. I also replaced took out the a/c compressor and put a pulley in it's place. I pulled the air intake out the hood because it was about 1/2" away from the serpentine belt. Okay sounds good to be just making sure you didn't add anything. I figured I'd do all that so I think I'll be good. Ill try to keep you updated on here and get pics of the car but itll probably be a little while. Also do you run the alternators or double batteries?
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Post by ford47 on Aug 28, 2014 12:04:39 GMT -5
Personally I run alternator. Not saying that's the correct way, ask 10 different people you might get 10 answers. But it seems like the fuel injected cars with a computer tend to run the best with higher voltage an alternator provides. Fuel injected rarely die when you hit, so there isn't as big of need for extra cranking capacity usually. Okay thanks I've ran 2 car so far a 89 Lincoln and a 91 mustang I've ran alternators in both and I was just wondering if i should try switching yet or keep it so I think ill keep it for this one.
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gimp
Heat Winner
Posts: 664
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Post by gimp on Aug 28, 2014 19:52:43 GMT -5
SuperM just let out a big secret. . . he is right. fuel injected cars would rather have the 14ish volts of an alt over 12.6 volts. not to mention without an alt an efi car will only run so long before it drains the battery low enough that the computer wont turn on (some are very picky and wont start at all under 11.5ish volts).
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