boom61
Feature Winner
Posts: 1,666
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Post by boom61 on Apr 7, 2021 22:42:12 GMT -5
I believe the ones at the bottom are a "transmission cooler" and maybe "power steering cooler". If that is the case, just loop them out of harms way. I usually get rid of power steering altogether but that is personal preference. The ones toward the top look to be for the A/C and obviously are not needed unless you want to try and stay cool before you go out on the track.
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weel
Future Icon
Posts: 8
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Post by weel on Apr 22, 2021 19:15:07 GMT -5
What are people doing to keep the CV shafts from breaking? I am usually breaking the outer knuckle. Last weekend it broke when I hit someone.
Was the 2nd run on brand new shafts.
Little frustrated.
Thanks!
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Post by derbyfreak6187 on Apr 26, 2021 15:08:25 GMT -5
Has any one ever ran a 2004 Ford Fusion if so are they any good
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chi
Heat Winner
Posts: 231
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Post by chi on Apr 29, 2021 0:45:22 GMT -5
Has any one ever ran a 2004 Ford Fusion if so are they any good I know the Ford 500s are absolute tanks out there. If I remember right,they were based on the same platform?
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Hotfoot674
Heat Winner
If you're headers aren't cherry red by the end of the night then you didn't try/hit hard enough,
Posts: 330
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Post by Hotfoot674 on Apr 29, 2021 12:52:40 GMT -5
No i think they are a post tarus
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Post by ray241 on Jun 7, 2021 15:19:52 GMT -5
Got a 2000 Mercury Sable wagon. Me and a buddy can't figure out why they fuel pump won't start. We hot wired the inertia switch. What else could it be.
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boom61
Feature Winner
Posts: 1,666
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Post by boom61 on Jun 7, 2021 22:08:29 GMT -5
Do you have power and ground at the pump?
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boom61
Feature Winner
Posts: 1,666
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Post by boom61 on Jun 7, 2021 22:11:52 GMT -5
haha yes like I always do never had an issue with it though but ive swapped computers and still nothing fires by putting gas into the intake. so I know it still runs Ever figure anything out with this?
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Post by badhabits623 on Jul 4, 2021 11:24:05 GMT -5
Doing a really quick basic gut n go build on a 1989 Taurus. The more I rip into it the worse it gets. Blowing coolant out of the rear cylinders fast... coming out the exhaust. My question is how long do you guys get on these (3.0 v6) after they go dry? I am planning to unplug the temp sensor and plug the wire into a dummy zip tied outside the engine and also maybe hotwire trans. Although I wouldnt think I need to do both.? Just do the temp sensor probably since its quicker and easier,.. then the engine wont know how hot it is till it finally seizes. Any input is appreciated. Im close to abandoning this build but my county fair derby shouldnt be to long so I guess Im just hoping it will run long enough to ruin someones day!
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Hotfoot674
Heat Winner
If you're headers aren't cherry red by the end of the night then you didn't try/hit hard enough,
Posts: 330
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Post by Hotfoot674 on Jul 4, 2021 11:44:48 GMT -5
Doing a really quick basic gut n go build on a 1989 Taurus. The more I rip into it the worse it gets. Blowing coolant out of the rear cylinders fast... coming out the exhaust. My question is how long do you guys get on these (3.0 v6) after they go dry? I am planning to unplug the temp sensor and plug the wire into a dummy zip tied outside the engine and also maybe hotwire trans. Although I wouldnt think I need to do both.? Just do the temp sensor probably since its quicker and easier,.. then the engine wont know how hot it is till it finally seizes. Any input is appreciated. Im close to abandoning this build but my county fair derby shouldnt be to long so I guess Im just hoping it will run long enough to ruin someones day!
Youre saying fill it up and let it leak out, or dry block it to begin with? Keep the temp sensor near the engine so it gets a little warmth and so it doesnt think the engine is not warming up and tell the ecu to dump a ton of fuel in the cylenders.
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Post by badhabits623 on Jul 4, 2021 12:07:02 GMT -5
Not sure about starting dry or not, it doesnt run the greatest but Im starting to think that may be because it is getting so much coolant/water into the rear cylinders so there could be advantages to starting dry and hoping for the best. Might try some of that snake oil quick fix stuff that supposedly seals up leaks, maybe that will buy me a little more time.
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Post by gasman on Jul 13, 2021 1:20:07 GMT -5
Dry block it I ran one in 6 derbies that way they will take the heat
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Post by badhabits623 on Jul 19, 2021 12:20:14 GMT -5
I put in some stop leak stuff even though this particular coolant leak is darn big I figured id try. Had to run/idle for 30 minutes to circulate and such of course. It seemed to slow it down a lot and the engine was running better since half the cylinders weren't getting flooded with water but on further inspection I think it improved because it ran dry. When I refilled it with water the leak is about as bad as before. So after that experiment and literally reading all 59 pages of this thread for all other opinions I'm just gonna send it. Most opinions i read here are that the old 3.0 do well with heat and as I said before my fair derby shouldn't be too long. Derby is July 31. I'll report back.
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Post by badhabits623 on Jul 19, 2021 12:26:24 GMT -5
Any good bumpers that can bolt or weld pretty easy on the front of this 89 taurus? I asked on the fb page about what was strong and think I'll go with the back bumper off a vic based on those suggestions but dont know if it is gonna have a flat enough back to attach to my car without modification. My gut n go rules will only let me use a car bumper 1992 and newer, nothing fancy allowed. A guy at another local county fair the other day mentioned a ford five hundred bumper being pretty flat, anyone used one of those? Thanks y'all
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Post by badhabits623 on Jul 25, 2021 17:50:27 GMT -5
So this is kind of basic and it has been discussed here but I was in the middle of eliminating rear brakes so I took a few pics. This taurus had a bad brake leak and I gambled that it was in the rear, eliminate them and I only have the fronts to worry about. It worked, just gotta bleed the fronts now and I'm golden.
Used the limb snips to cut the rear brake lines coming off the master cylinder since it was a little tight to run the pipe cutter in there easily. Left them a little long and once I removed them from the master cylinder I cut to length nicely with the pipe cutter. Then a quick compression fitting and reinstall on master. Done! 5 minutes.
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