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Post by demoderbydrvr on Sept 9, 2012 15:19:27 GMT -5
For those that have run the newer wagons, it looks like the untouched rears like to pack in a tad and also maybe drop a little. Have you noticed it affecting the driving during the heat?
I also was thinking of going underneath and taking a saws all and making a slit right behind the rear axle and see if that helps the rear go up and in.
Can't wait until next labor day to run this guy!
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Post by 513monster on Sept 9, 2012 16:45:21 GMT -5
I would try to beat the roof up and make a dimple on top of the quarters like they are doing to the 80's gm wagons. I think it would pack in and up...it makes sense if you can picture it. Heres an example, albeit fullsize the principle is the same and should work. Jack the roof up like this: So it doesnt do this:
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Post by 513monster on Sept 9, 2012 16:47:14 GMT -5
heres a different view from the side. I see people that do this to the fairmont(and other compact) wagons with pretty good results.
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Post by triplem214 on Oct 6, 2012 15:10:25 GMT -5
Okay, guys. I got a $3,500 to win compact show, and I was thinking of heading up with a Taurus wagon. I'd definitely pre-bend the rear like above. But do you guys think it could be built hard but yet stay within the rules, the rules are here:
1. Any 4 or 6 cylinder FRONT WHEEL DRIVE car (EXCEPT: No Cadillacs or 1985 and older Toronados and Rivieras) Must be hardtop automobiles. No Convertibles! No rear wheel drives!
2. The following must be removed: all glass, all seats except driver’s seat, head lights and taillights, all chrome, wipers, antenna, door handles, carpeting, inner door panels, headliners, mirrors, sun visors, rear compartments of station wagons, and all other loose items. Plastic inner wheel wells and plastic bumper covers MUST be removed BEFORE YOU COME TO INSPECTION. Trunk and drivers compartment MUST be free of debris of any size.
3. Drivers door may be welded solid if desired using 3" wide 1/4" thick strap. Passenger doors may be welded in (4) spots per Door using 3"wide x4"long plates 1/4" thick (4 plates per side on 2 doors, and 6 plates per side on 4 doors). Or Banding(1 per spot), Chain(1 per spot) Or #9 wire(4 strands per spot) May be used in (2) spots per seam instead of welds(8 spots per side for 2 doors, and 14 spots per sideon 4 doors){(2) From Door to Fender, (2) From Door to Quarter, (2) From Door to Rocker, (2) From Door to Roof, And (2) From Door to Door on 4drs} Bands no larger than 1-1/2” wide. Chains must be at least 1/4", max of 1/2". No welding or bolting to frame and bumpers. NO body seams may be welded. No extra bolts/welds/screws.
4. Trunk MUST have 2 holes, 12” minimum for inspection. Maximum of (12) 3/8” bolts with (1) 1" washer allowed around holes for a maximum of 12 bolts total in trunk. 1" max washers. Trunks may be tucked but trunk lid must remain in the stock position front to back. Quarters must remain vertical. DO NOT BEND QUARTERS OVER! IF YOU DO, YOU WILL BE ASKED TO PULL THEM BACK OUT! NO wedges! Trunks to be held shut with Banding(1 per spot), Chain(1 per spot) Or #9 wire(4 strands per spot) in (2) spots per seam for a total of (8) spots on the trunk. {(2) from trunk to quarter on drivers side, (2) from trunk to speaker deck area, (2) from trunk to passenger side quarter, (2) from trunk to tail-light panel.} Bands no larger than 1-1/2” wide. Chains must be at least 1/4", max of 1/2". Or you may WELD the trunk lid with (6) 3"wide x4"long x1/4" thick strap. Or you may bolt with (6) 1/2" max bolts with 3"x3"x1/4"thick washers MAX!
5. Vehicles must have a hood in place. Aluminum and fiberglass hoods may be replaced with an stock style COMPACT steel hood. Hoods must be open for inspection. Six (6)½” bolts max with no larger than a 3"x3"x1/4" washer to hold hood down. Banding(1 per spot), Chain(1 per spot) Or #9 wire(4 strands per spot) may be used in place of bolts, (6) places per hood. Bands no larger than 1-1/2” wide. Chains must be at least 1/4", max of 1/2". Minimum 12" hole (with excess sheet metal removed from hole) must be cut in hood to enable firemen to put out fires without lifting hood. Maximum of (12) 3/8” bolts with 1" diameter washers total permitted around cutouts in hood. Make sure cooling fans are covered. Exhaust coming out of hoods must be pointed straight up. If exhaust is considered to be pointed in a direction of danger to the fans or other drivers the car will be disqualified.
6. Strap, chain or #9 wire from roof to cowl (windshield area) is MANDATORY in (1) spot for drivers safety! Use 1/2" chain/rebar, 1/4" C-Channel or 1/4" flat strap. Leaf springs Will Pass also. Trunks springs will NOT pass! (2) spots Maximum!
7. A steel bar or pipe (maximum 4” diameter) may be mounted SECURELY behind the drivers seat, from door post to door post not to floor (HIGHLY RECOMENDED FOR DRIVER SAFETY!) A steel bar or pipe (maximum 4”) may be mounted across the dash also. Recommended mounting plate size to be no larger than 6” x 6” x ¼” flat plate or C-channel maximum 6” behind center post. You may also put pipes on drivers side and passenger side horizontally to be welded (attached) to front pipe and rear pipe only. Pipes may not be attached to drivers door or passenger door in any way Maximum 3” diameter. OPTIONAL: A halo bar may be welded to pipe behind seat. Halo may touch doors and door posts, but CANNOT be welded or attached in any way at that point. CAN NOT BE WELDED TO OR TOUCH FLOOR! Halo can have (5) 1” welds on the roof on each side.
8. Front and rear bumpers: Maximum of 1/4” plating may be used no larger than 6”x6” welded onto the bumper in (2) places at mounting points if a different make bumper is being used on car, only (1) plate is permitted per side. Bumpers may be welded or bolted on. Stock bumper shock may be welded to frame and bumper. Shocks may be collapsed and welded. If bumper shock is removed you can weld the bumper to the frame rail. If bumper is welded to frame, No bumper shocks inside frame! No homemade bumper shocks. No extra reinforcement to be added to frame rail. No Added tubing/Channel/Plate allowed! Outer bumper skin cannot be welded to Inner bumper skin! Bumpers may be cut to remove sharp edges. No extra reinforcements (bolts, washers, steel, etc). You may be asked to cut an opening to prove there is nothing that has been added. No exposed frame rails, no protruding bumper shocks will be permitted. ANY BUMPER MAY BE USED, DEC BUMPERS ARE OK! NO HOME MADE BUMPERS, NO FOLDING AND REWELDING OF SKINS!
You may use 1 loop of chain or (4) strands of #9 wire in 2 places to hold bumper on. Chain around bumpers may be welded or bolted to bumper shock. Chains may not be heavier than 3/8”, 3 links must be free from welds, maximum 3 links welded to frame on each end. If chain/wire travels through hood/trunk it will be considered a hold down.
9. No special bracing or reinforcing of suspension or body.Body mounts may not be moved. No over sizing or washering of original bolt or mount. You may be asked to remove new body mount bolts. Stock bolts may be replaced with same size bolts, washers not to exceed 3"x3"x1/4"thick. Patches: rusted cars may be patched (patches must be tin) strictly enforced. Patches can only be 1" overlap, may be welded 1" on 1" off. Patch one side only (you must prove your rust)
10. Shocks/Struts must be stock, working condition, mounted in original locations. No homemade shocks no welding of eyes. No circle track shocks or off road shocks. Suspension must have 1" of movement(I must see the distance between the tire and wheel well close by 1"). Shocks may be stuffed or clamped. Spring rubbers allowed. Coil springs may be welded, wired, banded, bolted or chained (bottom only) to rear end. No coils inside of coils.
11. Fender wells may be cut out. No welding/bolting/screwing of inner and outer skins.
12. Any tire, 15” maximum. Doubled or foam filled tires are ALLOWED. Any wheels may be used. Valve stem protectors will be allowed. All wheel weights must be removed.
13. Reruns: rerun fixes must be stitch welded only. Stitch weld split seams 1” every 6” on reruns only. Do not add metal. For drivers safety, rerun cars must have trunk/tailgate bent down or have an opening cut to see backward.
14. Battery mounted to floor with some type of protection from punctures. Must be separated from relocated gas can and secured firmly in place. Battery must be covered. Only 1 battery is permitted, any size.
15. Relocated gas container must be secured firmly in drivers compartment in METAL approved cans only (boat cans will be accepted). May relocate stock tank inside car but must have a kill switch on the fuel pump CLEARLY MARKED and LOCATED SO IT IS EASILY ACCESIBLE TO TRACK CREW. NO plastic cans. All connections must be double clamped, Fuel line must be CLEARLY MARKED as "Fuel Injection" line. Please be sure we can see ALL fuel line connections at inspection. (Do not have covering on tank for inspection, May be covered before entering heat/feature. No Rubber straps! No Ratchet straps! MOUNT THEM AS IF THE WORST IS GOING TO HAPPEN! I should be able to shake the entire car by the gas tank without it moving!
PLEASE USE YOUR HEAD WHEN MOUNTING THESE, SAFETY FIRST!
16. Radiators cannot be relocated. May be removed and looped system used. May be banded (2 bands maximum) to core support vertically or horizontally. Overflow must be pointed towards ground & attached to car so it will not spray forward. No expandable foam. Water only. No antifreeze (crowd safety). Radiators may have window screen to protect from flying objects or mud. Homemade grates or grids will not be permitted. No homemade cover plates. All cooling systems must be under the hood. No cooling systems inside the car (driver compartment). Stock Transmission coolers allowed under hood only. Air cleaners will be mandatory. All AC lines MUST be cut and removed prior to arriving at the track. Electric fans of any size allowed, be sure the hood covers them for safety purposes! Absolutely NO ANTIFREEZE. We will be checking, so don't run your car for a long period of time before coming for inspection.
17. Stay in car and do not loosen safety belt or remove helmet until event is stopped or over!! If you do while you are still running you will be Dq'ed. If you have a fire, get the officials attention, we will stop the derby immediately so you can exit.
18. After second fire in same auto, in same event, the car will be disqualified.
19. Brakes must work. No deliberate hitting of arena tires for braking purposes.
20. No deliberate hitting of drivers door. Do not use drivers door as a shield.
21. No teamwork (double-teaming). If you are caught teaming up, one or both drivers will be disqualified.
22. No fresh painting of inside of cars!! No undercoating underneath, inside or on frame.
23. The officials reserve the right to re-inspect cars at any time during the event. Heat winners will be re-inspected post heat. Feature winners will be re-inspected post feature.
Is the stock engine any good? And what should i do to keep the front straight? I'm more into full-size cars.
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Post by nitronate78 on Nov 6, 2012 10:44:30 GMT -5
anyone want to give me some tips on a 94 taurus wagon
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Post by crippledisaster2z on Nov 30, 2012 14:15:34 GMT -5
I've built 4 tauruses (89-94) and i have yet to find something with a harder nose than them. I've used most of the tips on here on my own but I've found a few more real good ones through my experiences with them. 1. Take out the stock subframe mounts and use like 3/4inch bolts and bolt the body straight to the frame, take the front bolts and run them up through the unibody and have the tops of the bolts inside the engine compartment. 2. the 3.0 is a beast of an engine, unless you can beef up the core support don't waste your time with a radiator after the first run, just loop the cooling system and put in some mendtite and make sure you have some sort of an overflow so you don't blow everything to shit in the cooling system. 3. the tie rods and front struts are extremely weak, beef them up, or make homemade ones if you can it'll save a ton of headaches in the future. 4. yes the trunks are weak, tuck the lid then pound it down in the middle along with the back dash so the center of the trunk is lower than the sides, also pound the back window/roof braces down so that the roof doesn't hold the trunk down. 5. collapse the front bumper shocks or figure out how to get rid of them otherwise they will make the unibody blow out faster
I have had a 93 sedan last me 7 runs until i junked it because i was tired of fixing it, and i currently have a 94 wagon with 5 runs on it and its rock solid and ready to go for another 10 once i get a different tranny. If you got any other more specific questions i know these cars in and out for the most part and i have had the worst case scenerio happen with a few so hit me up for advice
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Post by hardcore347 on Dec 20, 2012 5:47:05 GMT -5
Im driving a 2001 now thats getting stripped out end of jan for a show in june,ive ran a 93 before and took it against mostly 70's fullsize iron,held its old
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Post by painkiller on Feb 7, 2013 11:23:50 GMT -5
Will pushing spare wheel compartment on a 99 up into the truck help it fold up better? Im trying to leave the car to look completely stock on the outside but ive heard the rear ends on the 97+ models tend to go down and i don't know if pushing the bottom of the trunk up will help.
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iou2
Future Icon
Posts: 64
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Post by iou2 on Feb 13, 2013 15:22:31 GMT -5
Any tips or tricks for a 96? I need to know how to build it. What all should I do to the back end? How do I stiffen the front up?
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iou2
Future Icon
Posts: 64
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Post by iou2 on Feb 13, 2013 15:24:46 GMT -5
Also, any ideas to shorten the wheel base? Maybe pull the rear end forward a little?
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Post by durbin77 on Feb 19, 2013 20:57:02 GMT -5
Any tips and tricks for a 96? Everything I have seen is either for older style or wagons
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Post by durbin77 on Feb 27, 2013 23:16:51 GMT -5
Anybody?
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Post by durbin77 on Mar 21, 2013 12:42:22 GMT -5
Anybody know the part number for a belt WITHOUT the Ac compressor? Thanks..
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Post by 79miller on Apr 9, 2013 9:42:45 GMT -5
Building a 99 for my niece and noticed that the power steering is on the passenger fender. Where do u guys move it at?
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Post by durbin77 on Apr 18, 2013 12:09:24 GMT -5
Will shortening the frame rail on a 96 help any? It's the style without the core support so the frame rail sticks out. Way out. Like, I can cut 5 inches off of it and still have plenty of room for the radiator. How much do you think removing 5 inches help? Thanks
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