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Post by DemolitionMissions on Sept 4, 2011 12:10:13 GMT -5
Place anything about a Ford Taurus or Mercury Sable in here. Yes they are basicly the same car..same subframe on both cars.
The ford taurus and sable are the same design from the years 1986-1995. After 1995 I know the taurus had fiberglass for part of the core support, with metal underneath it.
86-95 Front ends are very strong on these cars, trunks tend to plow very easy. 96+ Fronts need more work, but rearends seem to pack in better than previous years.
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Post by DemolitionMissions on Sept 4, 2011 12:21:20 GMT -5
There was a LOT of good info from the old wecrash site on building these cars. Not many of these cars seem to get built and ran at derbys, but they are worth the build. A few basic things that was from the old site:
-Yes, these cars can actually handle having a pointy bumper on the front of them. But it will bend quicker.
-No, do not run a rear bumper. These cars WILL plow if you run a bumper. The only way to run a bumper and not plow is if you prebend the rear a lot first.
-These cars come factory with solid plastic bumpers front and back, there is no metal backing behind them.
-The transmissions are known for having problems, shift easy and run a cooler if allowed.
-There will be a computer box on top of the radaitor core support in the middle. Unbolt this and move it to the firewall. If this box takes any hard hits the car will shut down.
-Just like any FWD car, run donut tires on the rear.
-The 3.0L engine is the better of the engines put inside these cars. These engines seem to handle heat pretty well.
-Try to keep the front axle cv shafts as straight as possible, the steeper the angle on them from tranny to wheel, the easier for them to break.
-There is an inertia switch in the trunk of these cars, on the drivers side by the speaker deck. If you run the stock wiring and fuel pump then cut both of those wires going to the inertia switch and wire them together. The inertia switch will turn itself off from 1 hit in a derby and your fuel pump shuts off. If you run your own fuel pump and wiring, then this switch means nothing to you.
Follow these basic tips when building a taurus/sable and it will hold up fairly well.
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Post by DemolitionMissions on Sept 4, 2011 12:24:38 GMT -5
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Post by nanzpower36 on Sept 4, 2011 15:11:44 GMT -5
custom engine mounts..maybe smaller mud tires in front so u wont have to worry about them getting caught on the fenders..maybe cage the engine. what class u run this in?
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Post by DemolitionMissions on Sept 4, 2011 18:02:36 GMT -5
Basicly a full weld class, no frame mods.
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88x
Feature Winner
Posts: 1,125
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Post by 88x on Sept 4, 2011 18:32:39 GMT -5
custom engine mounts..maybe smaller mud tires in front so u wont have to worry about them getting caught on the fenders..maybe cage the engine. what class u run this in? lol cage an engine.... its not an outlaw car haha.the tires are only 15s. to make more room cut slices and fold over
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Post by scottiem50 on Sept 4, 2011 19:44:37 GMT -5
ok this might be a dumb question but whats the whole theory to poundin or dimpling the body panels in just curious on what advantage or reason is behind it
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Post by DemolitionMissions on Sept 4, 2011 19:59:20 GMT -5
Scientificly it does something with the molecules of the metal and arranging them to be stronger. Physically the creased lines pinch the metal together and make it harder to bend.
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Post by scottiem50 on Sept 5, 2011 11:54:11 GMT -5
ok whats the best way to go about this
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Post by DemolitionMissions on Sept 5, 2011 13:10:40 GMT -5
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Post by nanzpower36 on Sept 5, 2011 14:14:21 GMT -5
a way i found to be effective never have tried it but seen it done is, flip the fenders inside out..not as fun as using a hammer though. try some 11 or 13 inch mud tires in front. make some heavy duty engine mounts..you might want to brace the rear axle bc if you take a few big hits back there with it being smashed in, u take a bigger chance of snapping it in half or bending it. i14.photobucket.com/albums/a325/ahoy123/P1040756.jpgtry something like that basically.
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Post by jarvis518 on Sept 6, 2011 16:43:42 GMT -5
ran a 97 wagon against 8's and won took it to the mixed feature and won the overall in a chain and bang. kept the front clean for the most part besides a few shots but never lost the rediator and the back end packed perfectly. i'll have pics up soon
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Post by scottiem50 on Sept 6, 2011 21:31:23 GMT -5
that would be nice cause im runnin a 97 in a couple weeks and its pretty much a chain and bang
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Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
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Post by Deleted on Sept 7, 2011 12:45:50 GMT -5
97 is a totally different creature. Fiberglass front core support. They seem to get knocked off fairly easily.
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Post by jarvis518 on Sept 7, 2011 20:30:27 GMT -5
i took off most of the fiberglass and just left what was holding in the radiator. everything stayed in place nicely without at straps around it
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