XXX
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Post by XXX on Sept 6, 2011 23:52:14 GMT -5
On the old site there was a guy who used the stock front brackets with a good bumper. What is the better way, stock bracks or bop brackets?
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Post by Iron Crush on Sept 7, 2011 7:08:07 GMT -5
I used the stock brackets but I wouldn't use them in stock form. I hardnose and cut the long part of the bracket off and layed them against the frame from the bumper all the way back to the spring pockets. Then welded the heck out of them.
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Post by rpmotorsports on Sept 7, 2011 10:34:29 GMT -5
Have not tried the stock brackets, used the bop brackets and liked how they turned out so I stuck with them. Rules here allow very little welding between the bumper and the bracket and a impala bumper bolts right on when using the bop brackets.
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XXX
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Post by XXX on Sept 7, 2011 10:45:47 GMT -5
Its the idea of finding some lol. I have a pair of 74-76 brackets just dont know what there off of. Also have one shock thats tweeked pretty good so weighing my options. B 13 do you have any pics of the stock bracket on yours?
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Post by Iron Crush on Sept 7, 2011 12:27:55 GMT -5
I hardnosed and then used the brackets like I said.
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Post by moosehead55x on Sept 8, 2011 20:37:52 GMT -5
the way the aarm/engine craddle bolts all the way through the frame the internal plates run farther forward
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XXX
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Post by XXX on Sept 8, 2011 21:16:16 GMT -5
the way the aarm/engine craddle bolts all the way through the frame the internal plates run farther forward On the 61-63 or 64-69?
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XXX
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Post by XXX on Sept 9, 2011 0:28:54 GMT -5
How can I get some more height out of this thing? This is not my picture but shows the front suspension of a suicide.
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Post by moosehead55x on Sept 9, 2011 22:22:27 GMT -5
61-63 are better they have the longer internal plates and bolts that go clear threw the frame @ the engine craddle area... and for the more hieght put 7.50 on it or cut and lenghten the spindles
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XXX
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Post by XXX on Sept 9, 2011 23:58:13 GMT -5
Whats the best way to notch this?
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Post by spudboy on Sept 10, 2011 15:23:09 GMT -5
I don't think there's a right answer to this question. I always notch mine right behind the rear leaf spring mount then run althread thru the frame and trunk then crank it down. The metal is going to rip and tear any way you do it. Just cut away most of the metal behind the tires. Avoid any rear end shots possible. The spindles are very weak. It's easy to weld a metal plate from the upper ball joint mount (on the spindle) to a couple inches down the spindle. Anything to keep the spindle from bending in, your tire will rub on the ball joint, etc... Front end height = Bigger tires. Unless you want to cut the spindle and replace your shocks with longer ones. you could weld your A-arms down too but it's a rough ride. Spring spacers are an easy fix but if they're too tight you're going to bust shocks. Keep some 3/4 althread handy so you can fab-up a new ball joint when yours breaks. You can use parts from the old ball joint and the allthread. balljoints for these are expensive and hard to find.
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FORNEY00
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Post by FORNEY00 on Sept 12, 2011 23:42:44 GMT -5
You can find any just about any front suspension/steering parts for these at Kanter Auto Parts. I have been gettin their catalog for a couple years now.
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XXX
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Post by XXX on Sept 13, 2011 0:37:47 GMT -5
So what your saying is weld the steel as seen in the pic below?
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Post by spudboy on Sept 14, 2011 13:07:45 GMT -5
Yup. I usually run the metal about 3 inches down the spindle, longer if you can get away with it.
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Post by spudboy on Sept 18, 2011 13:55:39 GMT -5
What are the easiest steering box replacements for 66 suicide? If I remember correctly an Imperial box swaps right over and the older Ford truck boxes are close. Can anyone tell me from experience which is the easiest? I don't have much time to put into it. Thanks..
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