Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Apr 8, 2012 6:57:56 GMT -5
Yes I do. With the rust factor and iron prices in your area, I bet you would. I don't think you'd get much more than 400 in scrap. Maybe 500 max. But there's some clean cars, not many for a reasonable price.
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Post by C4 on Apr 8, 2012 10:53:44 GMT -5
More interested in knowing how to play with the torsion bars
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a0
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Post by a0 on Apr 8, 2012 14:48:31 GMT -5
the torsion bars can be tricky basically take a 1/2" breaker bar and find the torsion keys on the k frame and turn them on flat surface so you can see if you gain height.
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dm440c
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Post by dm440c on Apr 9, 2012 11:45:26 GMT -5
I just run the torsion bar adjusters up or down with an impact gun but of course the cars down here aren't rusty. If you look at the K frame from the top, look near the inside of the frame rail on each side and you'll see the threaded end of the adjuster bolts poking up at an odd angle. Follow that to underneath the car and your find the hex head of the bolts. The bolt on the right side controls height of the left side of the car and vice versa. someone made the comment about forward dump headers and it reminded me that IMO you should always delete the brake booster on a dippy, not for header clearance but for valve cover clearance. The front will bend up far enough to crush the valve cover into the booster every time, and if it doesn't then it means you scrapped the car too soon
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Post by C4 on Apr 9, 2012 13:31:17 GMT -5
Rust isn't much of an issue here either. We teach our kids how to drive on crappy roads instead of destroying our cars with salt.
Are you talking about the large nuts at the very front of the bars?.....Righty tighty to raise the front?
We will be using a 318, and the headers will be homemade. Will the stock master provide sufficient stopping power w/o the booster?
Thanks.
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n8
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Post by n8 on Apr 9, 2012 21:51:02 GMT -5
^ Depends on your leg strength, but I and A0 have no problem stopping one of these with stock brakes and no booster.
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Post by C4 on Apr 9, 2012 22:05:35 GMT -5
Will be my boy driving it. He is pretty stout.
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dm440c
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Post by dm440c on Apr 10, 2012 11:05:33 GMT -5
I've been close to 100% booster free on pretty much every car for many years now and I can lock up the brakes anytime I want without it. Check the "Mopar steering & brakes" thread for some ideas on how to eliminate it.
Like I said, on a lot of the cars it is a matter of preference but IMO on the F/M/J cars it is a necessity unless you think it's cool to crush the valve covers into the #7 rocker arms and spit oil everywhere. I don't think that's cool but maybe some guys do. In general it is always a good idea on any Mopar because the booster and master sit too close to the engine and headers anyway, even with forward dumps, and it also tucks the brake lines in closer to the firewall and away from the inner fender. Remember, these aren't like full frame GM & Ford products, the inner fenders are a structural member on Mopars and the less you trim out the stronger it will be overall.
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Post by C4 on Apr 10, 2012 16:41:09 GMT -5
I would not have thought to read that. Thanks for mentioning it, and for the pictorial contribution. That will also make the headers easier to fab. I think it is way cooler when the other guys break their stuff instead
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Apr 11, 2012 17:07:10 GMT -5
We just left the brakes and bought forward dumps, there were the same price. It was easier to just buy them
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dm440c
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Post by dm440c on Apr 13, 2012 10:20:41 GMT -5
I do like forward dumps on the FMJ cars because center dumps are so close to the firewall.... the forward dumps let me cut holes in the hood closer to the front where I want them. But I'll run whichever set I have available when I build the car, it doesn't matter that much to me.
Like I said twice already, leaving the booster on is an invitation to a crushed valve cover. Roll the dice if you're feeling lucky... you might get a 7 and you might get snake eyes.
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Post by C4 on Apr 13, 2012 18:07:28 GMT -5
I'll definitely pull the booster. just needed to know whether the stock master would have good enough stopping power without the booster, or if I needed to find a master off of a non power brake car.
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dm440c
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Post by dm440c on Apr 16, 2012 10:48:04 GMT -5
route both ports into a tee and then straight back to the rear brakes, should be able to lock up the wheels whenever you want.
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Post by C4 on Apr 16, 2012 11:28:27 GMT -5
It is going to a no weld derby.......weld bumper to bracket...bracket to frame....6 hood bolts, front 2 can go to frame. Any suggestions on bumper mounting or bolt placement? As it sits, there is no bumper on it. It was run the first time with the stock setup., so the bumper is gone and the driver side has a very slight bend right behind where the stock shock was mounted.
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Post by Simon64 on May 4, 2012 20:39:14 GMT -5
Has anyone every added leafs to a 5th ave if so how many? I'm building my first one and was wondering how much this would help, also I plan on re-enforcing the a arms but how are the ball joints in these cars? I was thinking about replacing them with bolts like I do in my vics but now sure.
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