Thanks, the old thread had the models listed, seeing their body designations confused the hell out of me. As far as basic tips go these, removing the rubber pucks and bolting the k frame solid, ( welding the subframe to the k member if allowed), ditching the lean burn ignition and going to points or an aftermarket HEI, cranking the torsion bars up, putting a bia rear end in,notching the rear subframe and removing the rear bumper will help out.
As far as basic tips go these, removing the rubber pucks and bolting the k frame solid, ( welding the subframe to the k member if allowed), ditching the lean burn ignition and going to points or an aftermarket HEI, cranking the torsion bars up, putting a bia rear end in, and removing the rear bumper will help out.
the above plus a solid front bumper is a good basic formula for building these cars for a stock show. A smart driver can take the small size of these cars and turn it to his advantage.
Post by drphiluponya55xr on Aug 10, 2011 21:03:52 GMT -5
Got a dippy ran one it bent in floors bad rear seat area and in the cowl any suggestions as how to prevent this someone mentioned 9 wire? Unsure how to use it also someone mentioned frame connecters rules say no connectors thought bout running 9 wire through floor down to rails and running it up to rear seat bar to help prevent going down any suggestions?
ok i have an 83 newyorker/fifth ave. its built no=weld. I have a pontiac bumper I have ran on acouple lincolns upside down and want to put it on this car. My question is should I run it upside down or normal and should I hardnose it? Any suggestion would be helpful. I can weld bumper to brackers with no extra metal or to frame I believe.
the above plus a solid front bumper is a great basic formula for building these cars for a stock show. A smart driver can take the small size of these cars and turn it to his advantage.[/quote] Thanks, missed the part about a decent front bumper. Figured it would be good to put the basic tips on here right away. Stuffing shocks or using leaf springs from a 1/2 ton Chevy truck will gain some height in the back. Clamping the leaf springs would be a good idea, as would reinforcing the shackles if rules allow. As far as it bending in the rear seat area, what I did (but havent tested it) was build my four point cage with down bars, which had plates that bolted to the floor above the subframe and I put another plate below the subframe and bolted them together. Thi should stop it from bending at that point but I will let you know for sure in a couple weeks.
n8 what do you mean "stuffing shocks". Running my first derby in sept with an 86 fifth ave. 1980 and newer no weld show. I have the axle locked, the leanburn gone. The rubber mounts have to stay. Looking to build a solid car. If you can think of anything I have missed or any other sugestions please let me know. Thanks.
Really why leave the rubber mounts? Do you put hockey pucks in there?
I wouldn't do either if it was up to me, but the guy said the "rubber mounts had to stay" which I interpret to mean they will check to see that there is still a soft rubber mount there. If that is the case, I would pull out the metal sleeves and bolt it back together with the rubbers.... crank the bolts hard and squish it together.
I maintain the calendars for NC & SC- please notify me of any shows in these states to help maintain the events calendar
By stuffing the shocks, I mean sticking old rags in the dust cover, squishing them in, then letting the car down, bounce it repeatedly, jack it up and put more in there. The last car we pumped the cover full of grease and then put rags in. Made quite the mess but we spent less than an hour and 5 bucks, and gained at least 2-3 inches of height in the back. Half ton truck shocks would work too but I did not have any of them around.