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Post by derbyman180 on Sept 18, 2013 17:17:59 GMT -5
I really need someone's help. I have an 83 Chrysler imperial with stock 318. I have 2 plugs that come off the distributor. Can anyone tell me how to wire this up. Or maybe have a diagram somewhere
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Post by XtremeMopar#307 on Sept 18, 2013 18:40:22 GMT -5
swap the dist out for points or electronic (I prefer points)... what you have is lean burn which is the worlds worst ignition system... for $60 you will be good to go and have a system that wont fail you..
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dm440c
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Post by dm440c on Sept 19, 2013 10:47:11 GMT -5
I really need someone's help. I have an 83 Chrysler imperial with stock 318. I have 2 plugs that come off the distributor. Can anyone tell me how to wire this up. Or maybe have a diagram somewhere Start over reading this thread and take note of all of the discussion about swapping Lean Burn ignition systems out. It's cheap and easy to do and you definitely want to do it.
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dm440c
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Post by dm440c on Sept 24, 2013 11:51:18 GMT -5
dx440c im not calling u out but iv been looking around trying to find where you have talked about the ballast resister and I cant find anything my question is u say its to protect the points and condenser? from what I understand its in there to regulate volts and amps? but when u don't run a alternator you wont have the high amps and volts so why would the ballast resister be needed? those are good questions. There are a few different ways to answer those, for starters I would refer you to Ohm's Law which describes the proportional relationship between volts, amps, and resistance in any electrical circuit. Algebraically this is expressed as V=IR which means that at any point in a circuit the volts equal the product of the current and the resistance. Changes in one will affect the others by the proportional relationship described. Looking at a direct current closed circuit in isolation such as a points ignition circuit, the current in the circuit is determined by the total resistance. Here's the key statements: For a given voltage, if the resistance goes down then the current must go up by a proportional amount. For a given resistance, if the voltage goes up then the current must again go up by a proportional amount. The current in the circuit is what has potential to do damage to the components, so either increasing the voltage or decreasing the resistance are the "watch-out" conditions. The entire ignition system in any car is designed to operate within certain limits and based upon real operating conditions. In this specific example the points and the coil are of primary concern for electrical overload and have to be able to operate under varying load conditions. Variables such as the charging system can increase the available voltage and the operation of the starter motor can decrease the available voltage. Generally the systems are designed to operate at the lowest available voltage state and must be able to survive the highest available voltage state. The design margin of the parts is the gray area in which this whole debate is anchored and the problem with taking a pragmatic approach rather than an academic one is that you don't really ever know how close your particular set of parts are to their margin until you cross it. Variability in manufacturing and tolerance stack-ups mean you may have a particularly robust set of parts or a particularly marginal one, you don't really know. So why chance it? There is nothing to gain and everything to lose. Yes, a set of points and a coil can survive for some period of time in a voltage state above their design intent, but how long exactly you just don't know. Maybe it is long enough to run a derby or maybe it is long enough to run 12 derbies and maybe you manage to stay ahead of the table for decades of demo derby simply by virtue of dumb luck thanks to high margin sets of parts. The "performance boost" that a pragmatist may imagine by upping the voltage input to his coil is simply that- a figment of his imagination in that there is at best a negligible performance improvement to be found in terms of crankshaft output. I can hear some guys voicing their protestations already at that last statement to which I say you don't have to take my word for it, book yourself some dyno time and tell me what you get. I bet I know the answer.
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Post by mack805 on Sept 24, 2013 12:14:10 GMT -5
thanks dm440c I understand that and thank u for taking the time to explain that.. I have ran with and without them because I never knew the true reason y they are in there. and you are right about the coils with the internal they do over heat and can crack open then short out short out everything not just your coil..
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dm440c
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Post by dm440c on Sept 25, 2013 12:15:55 GMT -5
Thanks for sharing that experience, maybe we can get through to a couple of people on this. People get hung up on this idea that the GM stuff is "better" with less external wires but they are judging "better" based on how many crimp connections they have to make and not based on which is a more robust design. Personally I'd rather use a design that is more robust and spend an extra 5 minutes making two or three wires instead of one.
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Post by mack805 on Sept 25, 2013 18:43:12 GMT -5
ya I hear you but some guys do not know how to wire a car and go for the easiest way.. not everyone understand how things work in a car electrical system.. shit I don't know everything about them but ill ask someone for help..
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Post by dirtsliinger722 on Sept 26, 2013 8:32:59 GMT -5
I am new to the mopar scene.I have a 78 440 and need help wiring it!! What diagram do i need? What parts will I need? Thanks
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Post by mack805 on Sept 26, 2013 10:08:23 GMT -5
do u have two or one wire coming off your dist? look at page one and those diagrams will help u.. if u had electronic ignition and you don't have the old wiring I would just go buy a new points dist
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dm440c
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Post by dm440c on Sept 26, 2013 11:24:29 GMT -5
I am new to the mopar scene.I have a 78 440 and need help wiring it!! What diagram do i need? What parts will I need? Thanks First you have to identify what you have before you can move forward. A 78 left the factory with the "Lean Burn" system but over the past 35 years who knows what has been done to it or if the original system is still there. Read up in this thread because it has been discussed a few times, also check out the "Mopar big block engines" thread because there is good info in there on how to identify what you have and what needs to be done. Worst case scenario is that you have to buy a new points distributor which is about $40 so the worst case is still not a big deal.
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dm440c
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Post by dm440c on Sept 26, 2013 11:36:56 GMT -5
ya I hear you but some guys do not know how to wire a car and go for the easiest way.. not everyone understand how things work in a car electrical system.. shoot I don't know everything about them but ill ask someone for help.. ...and I've heard this rationale before but to me it is illogical... if you know how to make one crimp connection then you know how to make two or three more, why this terrifies people so much I'll just never understand. People keep trying to make a mountain out of a molehill. But whatever, if someone has an irrational fear of crimp connections then that's their problem BUT if I was reduced to a quivering pile of fear by something as benign as a length of wire with a crimp connector on each end I believe I would keep it to myself out of embarrassment
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Post by alta454camaro on Nov 17, 2013 21:08:44 GMT -5
ok trying to get a 383 with points running. we are trying to wire it with out a resistor. this is how we have it now let me if something is wrong we have no spark it seems like. but did not have a test light. It does have new distributor, plugs,wires,cap rotor. not sure on coil tho. and put a new ground strap to body.
1.the push button. one side goes to small post on starter. then the other side goes to side of toggle switch.
2.toggle switch. top of toggle goes to + of coil. then on side of toggle wire go to positive of battery.
turns over no spark to plug. let me know if i have something wrong or how to do it with a resistor. could itbe a bad coil if this is right.
first chrysler to wire so all help is good.
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dm440c
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Post by dm440c on Nov 18, 2013 12:01:17 GMT -5
look at the wiring diagrams on the first page- if you want to delete the ballast resistor just pretend it isn't there in the diagram and go straight through. The diagram is correct so if it still doesn't work you either did something wrong or have a faulty component somewhere. I promise.
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Post by alta454camaro on Dec 5, 2013 16:07:41 GMT -5
Ok so we got it wired up correctly now it turns over an all it will do is back fire out the carb an exshust pipes plug wires are right the way it seems tried turning the dist. 180° for timing an still won't run any help would be great
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dm440c
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Post by dm440c on Dec 9, 2013 11:22:48 GMT -5
is your firing order correct? 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 counter clockwise for a big block
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