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Post by sissybamf on Aug 17, 2014 14:18:02 GMT -5
So obviously this sport has a lot of luck factor in. In your guys opinion. If I fixed the weaknesses in a 66 belvedere station wagon and fixed the weaknesses in a 67 fury y framer threw them against each other. Which would be a more viable choice?
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Post by seventyonehemicuda on Aug 17, 2014 17:16:44 GMT -5
if you fixed all the weaknesses of a y framer. plated y's, 78 nyer front bumper, plated everything in front of a arms plus some extra stuff, then built and built the belvedere to the point that it could be considered equal to your y-framer... then you would have probably put 3-4 times the amount of work and effort into the belvedere.... with that in mind think how much better your y framer could have been if you put the same amount of time and effort into it instead.... with enough welding and modification a 96 dodge neon can be an unstoppable force.
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Post by sissybamf on Aug 21, 2014 14:04:24 GMT -5
Thanks for the response. I personally loved my 68 polara. and that took enough work as it was. im not looking to put more than that into thats for sure. thanks for the heads up.
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Post by seventyonehemicuda on Aug 21, 2014 22:29:27 GMT -5
what kind of demo you heading into? stock? modified? pro mod? there are many ways to build a y framer... for example, you can most likely get away with welding up the "y"s in a stock show, but of the numerous times ive welded them up running everything else stock... I would highly recommend not welding them up. the bumper gets pushed around and falls off faster when they are solid and the rest is stock...
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cpeet14
Future Icon
Good Lord Jesus and Dale Earnhardt Jr. !
Posts: 136
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Post by cpeet14 on Sept 18, 2014 11:05:56 GMT -5
This is my '72 Satellite. My first derby car. Bolt&Chain class (The Shocker in the pictures is my dad's.) ^ Fresh. Got 5th in Heat race and 4th in the consi ^ Before Second run. Got 2nd. Would've lasted longer had it not gotten so hot while running in a foot of mud ^ After 3rd and final run. Won my heat race and got 7th in the feature. Hood came down and broke my dist. cap so I couldn't start back up. I would definately run another one
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Post by seventyonehemicuda on Sept 19, 2014 19:40:46 GMT -5
That car trailer is f-ing awesome!!!! I love that you have a receiver on the back too... what do you pull it with?
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Post by GPEET14 on Sept 19, 2014 22:11:15 GMT -5
I pulled it with my 2002 chevy 2500 with a 6.0 in it and the trailer is for sale in iowa not mine my buddies lol
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Post by lunchboxxx on Sept 21, 2014 16:09:39 GMT -5
Allright gentlemen all i have every ran was GM's and Ford's well I have a situation. I was offered to trade a bubble ford for a 67 Plymouth wagon. So I have never ever built a Chrysler before. My question is how well do you think this car would hold up in a class where we are allowed bumper swaps and engine swaps, frame shortening 25" from a-arm to end of frame, dp's, engine cradles, kickers to behind the a arms, gas tank protectors, full frame seam welding, can replace body mount bolts with 1" bolts, hump plates or leaf springs (7 or 9 per side I think), doors welded solid, can hardnose, can have kickers straight down to the frame from the cage at 4 points, etc... 1.) How well do you think this car would hold up against tilted new style Ford's? 2.) Would this be good rules to build this car too? Any help appriciate. Thanks
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dm440c
Feature Winner
derby drivers against drama- there's no crying in demo derby!
Posts: 2,824
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Post by dm440c on Sept 26, 2014 8:50:37 GMT -5
1) should do pretty good. I can't say it will be equal with the guys who have really got their game together with an '03 Ford but I would expect it to be competitive. Go with the hump plate option since the humps are weak in the wagons 2) sounds like perfect rules for this car
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Post by Luke Wells on Sept 27, 2014 10:33:09 GMT -5
Lunchboxxx, I'm a lil confused on the hump plates or leaf rules.
Is that refering to a factory coil sprung car?
Or with a Mopar are you allowed to "build" a better leaf pack without hump plates OR hump plate with stock leafs?
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boom61
Feature Winner
Posts: 1,666
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Post by boom61 on Oct 7, 2014 19:29:54 GMT -5
^^thats what I was wondering.
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Post by lunchboxxx on Oct 12, 2014 10:44:20 GMT -5
The rules state: 10. No homemade upper or lower control arms Suspension REAR 1. Rear suspension must remain stock unless otherwise noted below 2. Coil springs maybe doubled or stiffer than factory 3. Coils maybe welded, wired or chained in 4. Watts conversion brackets are allowed, but can not be used to strengthen car in any way 5. Rear trailing arms maybe reinforced or homemade max 2x2 square tube 6. No coil to leaf conversion 7. Leaf springs can be no wider than factory and no thicker than ¼” 8. No more than 7 springs per side with a minimum of a 2” stagger 9. 4 clamps per leaf pack no bigger than 2” by ¼” banding 10. Any automotive rearend or aftermarket rearend maybe used (5,8,10 lug type) 11. Rear end braces are permitted but not allowed to strengthen the car in any way.
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Post by lunchboxxx on Oct 12, 2014 10:45:32 GMT -5
1) should do pretty good. I can't say it will be equal with the guys who have really got their game together with an '03 Ford but I would expect it to be competitive. Go with the hump plate option since the humps are weak in the wagons 2) sounds like perfect rules for this car luckily this show does not allow 03^ fords and this promoter is on it about allowing them to not pass so no 03^ frame with a 80's body.
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boom61
Feature Winner
Posts: 1,666
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Post by boom61 on Oct 31, 2014 23:40:20 GMT -5
Anyone have specific issues with steering/suspension on the front of the A bodys? I know it was mentioned of the upper control arms folding in but just looking at my car it seems outside of the idler/pitman nothing looks to be very heavy duty. I probably would strengthen the tie rods anyway but what about spindles? they look a little thin to me.
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Post by pasterofmuppets on Jun 3, 2015 10:51:57 GMT -5
Picked up a 71 Coronet pre run (for the 8 3/4 rear, and the 360/727 that was in it) cheap. The trunk whale tailed but the sides and front have barely a scrape on them. It was built for a stock class chain and bang.
I was just gonna junk it and get the goodies out but its clean and still pretty straight.
My question (seeing as how i've only ran one chrysler product in my life, chevy powered) is what bumper shocks should I use (no bumper or shocks on it). I plan on hardnosing a 74 monte on the front, but I still want to use bumper shocks to run down the rails. Long chrysler shocks end right in the center of the open K frame and I dont want that at all to be my weak point.
It has the spool type motor mounts welded in it, should I still chain the engine in?
I am allowed two pieces of 1" all-thread through the core support to hold the hood down (no provisions in the rules for chryslers) Should I blow a hole in the sub and run it through or should I weld it to the side of the sub frame?
And lastly. I am a firm believer in "reverse is for backing off the trailer" but the trunk is whale tailed and I can literally bend it back down by hand to about halfway. Should I leave it, jerk it down with no mods, or try and wedge,canoe, or roll it?
Sorry for so many seemingly easy questions. I am an old iron GM guy, cant find chryslers around here so I have zero experience.
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