14U
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Posts: 36
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Post by 14U on Jun 23, 2012 10:53:28 GMT -5
would 750-15s be to tall for the front?
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dm440c
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derby drivers against drama- there's no crying in demo derby!
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Post by dm440c on Jun 25, 2012 10:41:23 GMT -5
would 750-15s be to tall for the front? no. I prefer shorter, but that is a matter of preference, I have run tall tires on these cars before. On the question about motor mounts- if you ask me, I say there is no way to make the biscuit mounts work as they are designed. Some guys say to solid weld them but every time I tried that I snapped all the tabs off the engine block. Some say use chain but I have used so much chain it looks like a spider web and still the engine was bouncing around like a lemur on crack. I have an idea for a design where I remove the rubber pad and weld in some kind of modified spool mount but I haven't tried it yet. Best thing I've found is to put on '74 & up mounts and weld receivers on the frame. Trouble is it goes with the car when you scrap it but it does work well
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Post by outlaw on Feb 16, 2013 17:26:39 GMT -5
can someone tell me if the 64 dodge 330 are good or not. if so has any ran one before and how do they hold up
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Post by outlaw on Feb 17, 2013 14:05:19 GMT -5
are these cars any good for limited weld shows?..yes? no? if so who has ran em and how do they hold up?...whats the down falls on these?...got a connection to one but not gonna move on it until I get some good input on em.
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Post by aoldfart on Feb 17, 2013 17:55:37 GMT -5
I would say no. Unless you want to try for best looking or something. Never ran one myself. But some close to it. I don't think it'll hold up against some of the newer stuff.
Steve
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noser23x
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R.W.C.
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Post by noser23x on Feb 17, 2013 18:07:03 GMT -5
Personally I would buy it and maybe try to resell it, maybe someone would want it for a hot rod or a gasser or something
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hemi1
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Post by hemi1 on Feb 17, 2013 19:24:06 GMT -5
If its a 2dr. its worth more to the mopar collector than you'll ever get derbying it.
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Post by cameronscrusher317 on Jul 15, 2013 18:00:13 GMT -5
How is a 72 satellite? Hold up good in limited weld?
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Post by junkit52 on Jul 15, 2013 21:06:53 GMT -5
how well would a 63 valiant do in a stock 6 cylinder class against newer fwd cars?
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boom61
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Post by boom61 on Jul 30, 2013 22:50:40 GMT -5
how well would a 63 valiant do in a stock 6 cylinder class against newer fwd cars? I am curious about this too. i may be able to get my hands on a 66. they seem like they would be tough for a compact car but i dont know the first thing about them. very intriguing the fact that it is an old iron leaf sprung car. I might just have to try and go out tomorrow and check it out.
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dm440c
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Post by dm440c on Jul 31, 2013 10:47:56 GMT -5
it's the same question with different wording.... bumper swap and seam weld from the firewall forward and you have a derby car. Chain n bang you have a pillow. Not much more I can say for an opinion about these cars.
Only twist in that question is about making a prediction of it vs. newer midsize FWD and I would expect the W body cars and similar to eat it up... but they don't run derbies on paper so you can give it a try. Stock engine and stock rear axle/ gears it will probably be slow, but you'll have a weight advantage if you can get a shot on someone sitting still. Paint an imaginary bullseye on your competition's right front wheels. If you can go in there with a lot of help you will do better as opposed to having a bunch of those quicker cars all over you so make friends in the pits.
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Post by bigblocker17x on Aug 7, 2013 16:59:39 GMT -5
Have any of you guys ran a 67 belvedere? I have no knowledge on mopars at all really and it dosent have a motor or tranny or front fenders but at 350 it seems like I just shouldnt turn it down, how hard would it be to drop in an olds 307 or ford 302 in? And what rearend will it most likely have? An 8 3/4? And it would be in an open wire class with a 4 point floating cage welded to doors and unlimited wire with a gas tank protector, and help is greatly appreciated thankyou
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dm440c
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Post by dm440c on Aug 8, 2013 10:43:10 GMT -5
same story again, swap front bumper & hardnose it, weld all frame and inner fender seams from the firewall forward and you have a derby car. If not then it just isn't much to talk about. Rear axle is probably an 8-3/4 if it was a v8 equipped car, if the factory put a slanty in it then it is probably a junk C clip axle.
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will4
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Post by will4 on Aug 19, 2013 11:39:09 GMT -5
I got a chance to pick up a 74 duster for cheap. Are they a good car
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dm440c
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Post by dm440c on Aug 29, 2013 10:43:54 GMT -5
is there some confusion about what has already been said regarding how "good" these cars are and what areas need to be addressed and what types of rules they are better or worse suited for?
Guys, check the first page where it lists the year, make, and models that are covered in here. If you see your car there, you're in the right thread. Pretty much every car that is covered in this thread has the same strengths, weaknesses, and build strategies apply to it even though some look different and they are not all the same size. You don't have to get specific about whether it is a 1964 whatever or a 1968 whatever or a 1972 whatever.
Here are the only exceptions to that statement- the 1974-1976 A body cars (specific makes and models are listed on the first page) have two important differences from the rest of the cars listed:
- they have the newer (better) spool type engine mounts - they have shock mounts for the bumpers and they usually have good bumpers. To clarify that, just check to see if your car has full boxed bumpers.
That's it, other than those two differences the chassis is the same with all the same strengths and weaknesses. So if you have a 1974-1976 A body then it's easier to build because the motor mounts are better and it already has good bumpers. You still build them the same way as the older ones, those are just two building tasks that are easier to deal with.
I hope that clears it up.
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