IMP
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Post by IMP on Aug 24, 2011 18:10:11 GMT -5
post all tips/tricks on 1972 and older pinch frames....
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dm440c
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derby drivers against drama- there's no crying in demo derby!
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Post by dm440c on Aug 25, 2011 11:25:02 GMT -5
models to discuss in this thread: (some of the off-the-wall stuff I'm not 100% on, feel free to correct my mistakes)
early 60's through 1972 B body midsize pinch frame cars* early 60's through 1976 A body small size pinch frame cars
Plymouth
B body
62-64 Fury 62-64 Savoy 65-73 Satellite* 62-70 Belvedere 67-71 GTX 68-73 Road Runner*
A body
60-76 Valiant 64-72 Barracuda/Cuda** 71-76 Scamp 70-76 Duster
Dodge
B body
62-64 Polara 63-64 330, 440 65-73 Coronet* 66-73 Charger*
A body
62-64 220 62-76 Dart 71-72 Demon 61-62 Lancer 70-74 Challenger**
notes:
* 1973 is a funky year for some of the B bodies, some had the old chassis which fits in this thread and some had the new chassis which belongs in the Cordoba tips thread. The way to tell is to look at the engine mounts- if it has the spool mounts it is the new style and if it has the pad mounts ("rubber biscuit" mounts) it is the old style
**1970-1974 Barracuda, Cuda, and Challenger were technically an E body but this platform was based on the A body and is essentially the same for derby purposes. Besides, if you are derbying an E body you are either rich, stupid, or both ;D
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Post by Moto Assassin on Sept 16, 2011 19:50:10 GMT -5
now that i am in the right thread what do you know about the 63 fury or any general tips for these cars.
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nevadapitbull
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i can't keep ALL the cool old cars!
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Post by nevadapitbull on Sept 16, 2011 22:05:02 GMT -5
ran my 66 coronet last weekend. hard nosed, k member welded, monte bumper, NO HOOD. 440, 3/4 ton pickup springs, ass was welded SOLID. stock rear bumper. after 5 or so hard shots with nose she started to bend up. i didnt weld front frame rails because the k member solidified it all with the monte bumper welded to frame rails. i also put in a cage that connected the fraim rails and i think when i repair it i'll put kickers from the cage to the frame rails behind upper a arms. i hit 1 imp and got him just above his bumper and folded all his sheet metal around his headers so i know i'm on the right track, and it was a lucky shot. only allowed 5 clamps per leaf spring pack and the back was starting to go sky high at the humps. thank goodness i welded the rear humps, fenderwells, interior seams, exterior seams, all of it. i even welded the window frames, beat the drip rail onto the window frames and welded them too! i even welded the interior seams but i think the secret was the cage. super thick wall square tubing along the rockers and bolted them to the ends of the frame where they end under the car. but now that she's bent i can straighten and plate!!
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Post by RockyVI on Sept 17, 2011 5:51:38 GMT -5
General tip on the 1963 fury. Dont derby them. Not good derby cars at all. Great 1/4 mile cars or great restoration projects. I love taking my 1963 belvedere driver out every once in a while on a sunday, or just let it collect dust.
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nevadapitbull
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i can't keep ALL the cool old cars!
Posts: 139
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Post by nevadapitbull on Sept 17, 2011 9:15:30 GMT -5
somebody has to make them rare!
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Post by RockyVI on Sept 17, 2011 13:52:29 GMT -5
They are rare already. They didnt make to many of them because they were a flop for mopar.
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dm440c
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Post by dm440c on Sept 19, 2011 11:44:02 GMT -5
now that i am in the right thread what do you know about the 63 fury or any general tips for these cars. generally for these cars.... not high on my list of derby cars at all. If you insist on building one and you hope to be competitive, be prepared to spend some time with the welder. The front is a pretty weak design by Mopar standards. The K frame has wide gaps between contact points with the main rails so the mains like to bend in between and pivot on the bolts. The upper A arms are tied into the inner fenders and things get bent easy. The pre-1974 bumpers are useless, the exception is the 74-76 A body bumpers which are decent. The back is designed like any other unibody Mopar although smaller and weaker. Basic build plan is to hardnose a good bumper to the front, then after that stock up on welding wire and weld every seam every where on the car, every one. Especially up front, all the panels, pinch frame rails, inner and outer fenders, weld the hood down as well. Some had 8-3/4 and some didn't, so if it has a rear axle smaller than an 8-3/4, change it for a BIA. Motor mounts are terrible on the pre- 1974 cars. Replace with newer spool mounts and weld in new receivers, use a cradle, use a ton of chain and kickers, whatever you have to do but do NOT rely on the stock mounts. When it's all said and done you could have put the same effort into a Diplomat or Vic and had a better car at the end, but hey, it's a derby so go have fun.
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dm440c
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Post by dm440c on Nov 10, 2011 11:37:41 GMT -5
1976 Valiant, was a clean NC car with a /6. Quick 9 wire build for a stock show (JM) although I did put an 8-3/4 in it with 5.13 gears It did what they do... the front rails hinged between the two K mounts and shifted over, the upper A arms collapsed in and pushed the inner fenders against the engine. The trunk pushed straight in. Notch or pre-bend would have helped the rear tremendously Before 2nd run after 2nd run
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14U
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Post by 14U on Apr 9, 2012 15:41:10 GMT -5
im gonna be building a 72 this year, im allowed 4 added body mounts where would be the best place to add these? 74 impala bumper to hard for these? no frame welding can weld shocks to the side but only 4in is it best to tuck the trunk and leave the rear bumper on?
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dm440c
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Post by dm440c on Apr 10, 2012 10:50:01 GMT -5
a 72 what? A or B body? 2 or 4 door or wagon?
Define "added body mounts" as it pertains to a unibody car, what would these "body mounts" look like?
I don't know that I would say a 74 Impala bumper is "too hard" necessarily, I think I would be OK with it if I could hardnose it right to the end of the frame rails and then weld every seam in the front clip but if you have to graft some kind of bumper shock mounts system on there and no seam welding then I'd probably choose a softer bumper. If the front bumper falls off you're in big trouble so concentrate on keeping it on.
Have you really studied the structure of the car yet? You may get some ideas from that based on what your rules will allow you to do.
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MADDOG403
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Post by MADDOG403 on Apr 11, 2012 1:40:25 GMT -5
Thinking of putting a doba K frame in a 68 satellite, what do you think DMC? Is it a waste of time, what torcion bars would be best the ones in the car or the ones on the K frame? I have had the car too long and need to get something done with it...
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dm440c
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derby drivers against drama- there's no crying in demo derby!
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Post by dm440c on Apr 11, 2012 10:53:58 GMT -5
ya know, I've never tried that and so I'm not sure what kind of advice to give. I do like the newer K frames better than the older ones but I guess I'm not sure how effective it is to make the swap. Offhand I think that with a full seam weld the front clips are stronger on the older cars and the weak link is the design of the K including the upper A arm mounts so you may be on to something there. That's a tough one to predict without diving in headfirst to see how well things line up.
Torsion bars only matter in terms of length so it's just about seeing where the best place is to locate the K and then seeing how long the torsion bars need to be. You may have to split a difference for simplicity.
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MADDOG403
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I dont win 1st place! But if my Maddog award comes from the hit I put on you, Neither will you!
Posts: 91
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Post by MADDOG403 on Apr 12, 2012 20:00:56 GMT -5
I have spent time on less of cars so I might have to try something on this!
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14U
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Post by 14U on Apr 14, 2012 20:26:01 GMT -5
a 72 what? A or B body? 2 or 4 door or wagon? Define "added body mounts" as it pertains to a unibody car, what would these "body mounts" look like? I don't know that I would say a 74 Impala bumper is "too hard" necessarily, I think I would be OK with it if I could hardnose it right to the end of the frame rails and then weld every seam in the front clip but if you have to graft some kind of bumper shock mounts system on there and no seam welding then I'd probably choose a softer bumper. If the front bumper falls off you're in big trouble so concentrate on keeping it on. Have you really studied the structure of the car yet? You may get some ideas from that based on what your rules will allow you to do. cornet, i know theres no body mounts but since im allowed to add 4 i was wondering where the best place to add 4 would be... (max 5/8 bolt 4in washers) what motor mounts would work the best for me? or is there anyway i could make the biscuit style work?
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