dm440c
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derby drivers against drama- there's no crying in demo derby!
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Post by dm440c on Jun 20, 2017 20:19:05 GMT -5
I have a 76 Fury wagon with the spare tire area rusted out and a little out behind the rear wheel wells. Should I patch the wheel well rust or just suck it in against the subframe? I keep seeing the term 'canoe' the back, what does that look like? I would use a floor jack to push the well upward. The hardest part of the wagons is keeping the humps from collapsing, the second hardest part is keeping the body from shearing off the frame. "canoe" is a term that mainly applies to sedans, it's when you beat a crease down the trunk lid from front to back.
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Post by martin113 on Sept 9, 2017 16:52:48 GMT -5
Does anyone cut the front sway bar out? It's hitting my fan now going to pull it down and run again
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Post by seventyonehemicuda on Sept 9, 2017 23:42:00 GMT -5
Does anyone cut the front sway bar out? It's hitting my fan now going to pull it down and run again I've cut the sway bar out of every shocker I've ever run.
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Post by martin113 on Sept 10, 2017 22:23:57 GMT -5
Should I cut it out and leave it attached to the frame and A arm or get rid of all of it.
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Post by cowdoc on Sept 12, 2017 19:46:23 GMT -5
Should I cut it out and leave it attached to the frame and A arm or get rid of all of it. get rid of all of it. If you leave the pieces from the control arm to the frame mount it will come off and impale your tire, had a buddy do that.
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demoboy333
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Post by demoboy333 on Apr 2, 2018 22:00:53 GMT -5
Picked up a 1974 fury two door. How is the bumper stock ? Should I put a harder bumper on it? Running a semi stock build. (No cradle class) I read that should run a pointed bumper to try to keep the pressure there to push up instead of straight back so tires don't end up in the firewall.
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ron17t
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Post by ron17t on Apr 3, 2018 19:27:24 GMT -5
I wouldn't put a pointy on any stock type build. I used a 75 fury bumper on my Monaco and it held up fine.
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Post by fordpowerforever on Apr 7, 2018 13:36:22 GMT -5
the bumper should be fine for that class, just weld the skins together and run the torsion bars up to get height.
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Post by cclark009 on May 22, 2018 0:25:50 GMT -5
Got my 74 Yorker stripped out today and have a question regarding whether to build the rear to pack or to stay straight. The trunk floor is in perfect condition between the pockets and up to the deck, however the pockets themselves are nearly transparent they are rusted so bad, the frame seems really good too with very minimal rust, building to stock rules. What are your opinions on doing the rear of this car? I was thinking beat a couple dimples into the frame and suck the mounts tight. We are allowed to bend fenderwells and bumpers prior to derby, so maybe hammer what's left of the quarters in and bolt to the trunk floor? TIA
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owen11x
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Ford makes it, Chevy shakes it, Mopar breaks it!
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Post by owen11x on May 22, 2018 4:22:28 GMT -5
Yes defintly cut a few inches or right behind tire then wrap the rest up and bolt it to trunk floor. Build the rear with defense in mind not so much offense build it to take the shots and not to be hard
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Post by fullthrottle on Jan 12, 2019 20:40:36 GMT -5
Got a 77 new yorker just wondering how to tilt it should I cut and weld or space the sub at the fire wall any help would be great thanks
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demoboy333
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Post by demoboy333 on Jan 12, 2019 22:34:27 GMT -5
Got a 77 new yorker just wondering how to tilt it should I cut and weld or space the sub at the fire wall any help would be great thanks If I was you before cutting the stub I'd set the rear height an check an see what your frame angle is in front of the a arms. The frames are pretty straight already. Words from dm440c I found this while I was reading the thread on shockers since I'm building one also. it's been said by me before but I'll say it again, be careful with tilting shockers because every now and then one will go down in the front even at the stock angle and this doesn't get any better if you tilt it. I had a stock level one go down a couple of weeks ago and it's a real bummer when that happens.
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Post by Luke Wells on Jan 12, 2019 23:06:33 GMT -5
Last year I seen a Yorker with a V on it go down in the front.
Had the V set level or maybe even slightly downward to try to offset the upward leverage, then took a weird shot and got the front hopped up on by a rear end. Must have kinked it down and it all went so ugly from there.
Literally looked like he was pushing a 1 bottom plow around the track.
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demoboy333
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Post by demoboy333 on Jan 14, 2019 1:46:48 GMT -5
So on the shocker I'm building the rules allow two piece of wire per window so total of 12 pieces. I'm running tubing to the front of the leaf perch so it can pull out of move. I'll go ahead an run one wire to each side there to hold frame. Then I'll run from the a pillar down engine side of firewall to the frame to help from pushing back(has worked well on my other cars). Now for other stands I'm unsure where to run them all any one else have input on it? mopar17 owen11x dm440c Punisher 66J martin113 or any one else that runs Mopars I can't think off hand
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owen11x
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Ford makes it, Chevy shakes it, Mopar breaks it!
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Post by owen11x on Jan 14, 2019 7:19:13 GMT -5
I take another one from a pillar go in front of dash bar to just behind the fire wall body mounts, i use angles when running 9 wire and make sure it crosses tubing when i can it only makes it stronger, and i take it from rear pillar down, go around gtp to rear rail around front leaf mount. I have never done much other but i think this year I'm gonna put washers on floor where feet go by trans tunnel and run 9wire to the floor in that area to see if it helps floor from buckling so hard
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