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Post by DerbyKing88s on Sept 6, 2018 7:35:25 GMT -5
The spring pockets are fine, they have the good spring anyway. I’d just change spindles and a arms and call it good
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Post by badluck97 on Jan 17, 2019 16:05:49 GMT -5
I would like to get some opinions on these bumper mounting rules. I have some ideas but am conflicted of which way to go about it. The car will be seam welded top and bottom from the firewall body mounts forward. I have read through all 43 pages and know the areas of concern. I will be running only a lower cradle with a sbc only allowed a pp or a dp. From what I understand with no trans bracing the dp is out of the question. I can either use a seam welded pointy or a 6x6x3/16s square tubing bumper that can only be one piece with a skin on it. I do plan on making a mild point out of the tubing bumper if I chose that route. What are youre guises opinions? Thanks!
STOCK i. Stock brackets may be welded to bumper & frame in stock position. ii. You may collapse and weld bumper shocks solid. iii. Other than collapsing, bumper shocks must be one complete piece and in stock form. iv. You CANNOT cut in separate pieces, stretch, or bend stock mounts to reconfigure in any way and reattach them to the car or bumper. b. HARD-NOSE i. You may remove all stock mounting hardware and weld the bumper directly to the frame (hard-nose). ii. You may cut the frame flat to mount the bumper. iii. You may NOT cut frame any closer than 19” from center of the A-Arm. iv. You may cap the end of the frame with a maximum 6” x 6” x 1/8” plate to weld the bumper to. v. All stock mounting hardware must be removed. c. FLAT-BAR MOUNT i. Maximum 3” X 1/4” x 12” piece of flat bar may be used and may be welded or bolted to the side of the frame and to the bumper in place of stock mounts. ii. You may bend the front 5” or less of the flat bar to make an “L” to provide more surface to weld the bumper to. iii. Flat bar may only be attached to front 10” of the frame rails. iv. If welded the full 10” back, then only allowed 2” for the “L” v. You may also weld bumper to frame with two additional pieces of up to 1” x 4” square, round, channel or angle iron on each side. vi. DO NOT cap the front of the frame if using this method. vii. ALL stock mounting hardware must be removed
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Post by dean88 on Jan 17, 2019 19:15:28 GMT -5
I would hardnose the pointy on it. Right behind the factory brackets is the weak spot especially with the funny angle using the factory brackets can create, so getting a 12" strap to hardnose can be handy for that problem. You will have height issues if you cant swap out the A arms though.
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Post by badluck97 on Jan 17, 2019 20:45:05 GMT -5
I would hardnose the pointy on it. Right behind the factory brackets is the weak spot especially with the funny angle using the factory brackets can create, so getting a 12" strap to hardnose can be handy for that problem. You will have height issues if you cant swap out the A arms though. So your saying hardnose it and let it do its thing. Or would the strap be a better bet even though I can't weld it to the frame? I like the idea of the strap but I would be worried with a pointy or something like that would be to much leverage and stress the welds
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demoboy333
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Post by demoboy333 on Jan 17, 2019 22:05:33 GMT -5
I would hardnose the pointy on it. Right behind the factory brackets is the weak spot especially with the funny angle using the factory brackets can create, so getting a 12" strap to hardnose can be handy for that problem. You will have height issues if you cant swap out the A arms though. So your saying hardnose it and let it do its thing. Or would the strap be a better bet even though I can't weld it to the frame? I like the idea of the strap but I would be worried with a pointy or something like that would be to much leverage and stress the welds Rules state that you can weld strap to the frame so he's saying with the strap an a pointy your taking out the weak place in the frame. Could be more leverage but we all know caddys can handle pointys.
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Post by Luke Wells on Jan 17, 2019 22:08:35 GMT -5
Or... and I know I'm going out on a non "cool guy" points platform here....
Run a flatter bumper.
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Post by badluck97 on Jan 17, 2019 22:20:08 GMT -5
I wasnt worried about the car not handling the pointy but more of the 3 points of contact that the bumper is mounted to not being able to handle it. But then again if I butt it up close to the frame there shouldnt really be a problem right? And the 6x6x3/16 is the option I threw out to be my flatter option
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demoboy333
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Post by demoboy333 on Jan 17, 2019 22:49:23 GMT -5
If you hard nose it an then put the strap like your rules say then your fine. When I pick a bumper I try to pick one on how I plan to drive the car. If you drive more center of car to axles an frame rails etc then a pointy but if you drive more with corners of bumpers the. I'd go with a flat.
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Post by badluck97 on Jan 17, 2019 22:56:11 GMT -5
I understand that. With these rules if we hardnose we can not use the strapping. If we use the strapping then we cant weld the bumper to anything besides the strapping and 2 other 1"x4" material only allowing 3 points of contact having to leave a gap between the frame and the bumper
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Post by dean88 on Jan 18, 2019 7:25:00 GMT -5
That has to be the oddest rules I've seen for mounting the bumper. How do most of your competitors mount their bumpers?
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mn13
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Post by mn13 on Jan 18, 2019 8:09:33 GMT -5
Where does it say there needs to be a gap? All I read it saying is you cannot cap the end of the frame if using the flat bar method. flat bar can only be welded 10" back. Cut the end of the frame flat, weld bumper to frame on all 4 sides, weld a 10" flat bar on the one side and use the 2 allowed pieces of angle, square or round tube to strengthen two of the other three sides. I have never ran a pointy so I do not know how the factory mounts will line up to the frame or even ho the factory mounts are on it, which would make me lean toward the 6x6 just for the mounting purposes. If the pointy already had a nice flat plate to mount the bumper to the frame then go for it imo. The other thing I see, or do not see, is what the actual bumper rules are. You stated your options, but what is the actual ruling for the bumper itself, is a homemade pointy an option with a nice flat mount surface for example?
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Post by DerbyKing88s on Jan 18, 2019 8:43:31 GMT -5
The feeling I get from the rules are that they don’t want you to wrap your 10 inch plate around the front of the frame “capping” it to weld your bumper to. I’d run a pointy but if your too worried about it run a monte. It’s just personal preference but I hate fleet bumpers because you are really limited to how much damage you can do to a car. Your not going to brake someone’s balljoints or anything unless you use the corner which will make the frame do dumb things especially on the passenger side. Plus whenever someone hits you it’s always going to make good contact, there are no other angles or surfaces to diflect a hit. Would be an injustice to put a flat bumper on a caddy. Flattest I would go is a 74 impala front. JMO of course
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demoboy333
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Post by demoboy333 on Jan 18, 2019 10:08:42 GMT -5
I beg to diff on breaking axles or ball joints with flat bumpers. I'll get you video of it. I've broke them with middle of flat bumpers. But I like most flat bumpers for my builds.
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owen11x
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Post by owen11x on Jan 18, 2019 10:30:05 GMT -5
^im with ya. I've broke plenty of axles and steering components with gran fury and Newport flats and 76 Monte bumpers. I like pointys dont get me wrong but they have a time and place and dont belong on every build. In my opinion and the way I build, your questioning it this much even with advice. I'd say your better off finding a bumper your confident, is gonna hold and then ya dont have to worry.
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Post by smashford on Jan 18, 2019 10:48:53 GMT -5
Looks like crashmania rules in walla walla?
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