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Post by suthers210 on Aug 5, 2011 2:51:19 GMT -5
put all your 72 and older cadillac tips/tricks
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Post by dixon68 on Aug 20, 2011 23:30:13 GMT -5
drive forward! this is a 472
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Post by derbyhead1975 on Aug 21, 2011 16:39:40 GMT -5
this might sound crazy but, i want to set the motor back in my 69 caddy fleetwood. ive never done this stuff before, it would be the first time around my place to be done. depending on how far i move it back, will i have troubles with the master cylinder? and, how far does it have to be mover back for me to use an engine mounted gas pedal? thanks for any feedback.
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Post by caddytough on Aug 21, 2011 17:59:08 GMT -5
get some c-channel and weld it to the frame set the mounts on it and slide it back to where you want it. If your goona put it into the firewall id get a good DP or youll have to cut alot out of the firewall it will bend right at the fire wall atleast thats what ive seen and mine did.
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Post by kirbybuilt54 on Aug 21, 2011 22:53:16 GMT -5
this might sound crazy but, i want to set the motor back in my 69 caddy fleetwood. ive never done this stuff before, it would be the first time around my place to be done. depending on how far i move it back, will i have troubles with the master cylinder? and, how far does it have to be mover back for me to use an engine mounted gas pedal? thanks for any feedback. to answer your question we really need to know what engine you are running and if it has a front or rear sump oil pan. For what it is worth I got the crank pully on my rear sump chrysler small block sit even with the front of the engine crossmember and lonly had to do limited cutting of the fire wall. I have about a half inch clearance between the pitman arm and my high torc mini starter. I also have about a half ince of clearance between the brake master cyclinder and my center dump headers.
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Post by kirbybuilt54 on Aug 21, 2011 23:13:21 GMT -5
What I have learned about these cars (some 68-72): 1.These cars are very good for a limited weld where you are allowed to weld from a-arms forward 2. hard nose your front bumper. These cars can handle a pointy nose. 3. Collaps the y frames and weld together to make a complete boxed frame from the shock pockets to the front of the frame horns. 4. They like to bend above the power steering box so that is a good place to add a mid enging mount 5. Make a new tranny crossmember that will connect the outside frame rails to the stock tranny craddle. 6. the rear humps are the weak link, so if you can plant them do it. 7. Notch or dimple the rear frame where the c-channel meets the box frame. 8. The rear pinion angle needs to be adjust so that it point up more. I like to torch a new hole in the lower control arm about 2" in front of the stock hole and then rebolt it. 9.The only way to drive these cars is foot to the floor and try to put your front bumper as deep into your target as possible
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Post by sleeper13x on Aug 23, 2011 16:09:20 GMT -5
What I have learned about these cars (some 68-72): 1.These cars are very good for a limited weld where you are allowed to weld from a-arms forward 2. hard nose your front bumper. These cars can handle a pointy nose. 3. Collaps the y frames and weld together to make a complete boxed frame from the shock pockets to the front of the frame horns. 4. They like to bend above the power steering box so that is a good place to add a mid enging mount 5. Make a new tranny crossmember that will connect the outside frame rails to the stock tranny craddle. 6. the rear humps are the weak link, so if you can plant them do it. 7. Notch or dimple the rear frame where the c-channel meets the box frame. 8. The rear pinion angle needs to be adjust so that it point up more. I like to torch a new hole in the lower control arm about 2" in front of the stock hole and then rebolt it. 9.The only way to drive these cars is foot to the floor and try to put your front bumper as deep into your target as possible Exactly what he said! Don't go cheap on the front bumper, 74 pala bumper is the best for these and put it to the floor and nose all night. Don't expect it to be a rear end car for long, and if you plan on doing anything with the rearend, I suggest and double notch. Small on in the c channel right where the bumper mount is, and a even smaller one about 3 inches behind the humps.
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c3pr
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Post by c3pr on Aug 23, 2011 16:57:04 GMT -5
I didn't see anything on here or the old forum on these types of Caddies, so im gonna give my 2 cents worth. I think the 1st thing one should address is the brake system because it involves 4 wheel drum brakes and are a real pain in the a$$, both in fixing and your wallet ! I had a nice clean 90% rust free car and all the bleeders were thinned out and broke very easily as well as the lines, so I suggest you invest in new brake lines to start and who knows you might get lucky and the bleeders, master cylinder and booster all work, then you should check out brake cylinders as they are around $40 each. Secondly I would address the steering column: get rid of the rubber joint and make it solid, I just used #8 bolts and bolted together.
Third on to the frame and body mounts: all the body mounts in my car twisted off with ease, replace with 1/2 inch #8's plate em if you're allowed...in front of car use the original bumper brackets and weld, solid, a solid steel framed bumper, the original is worth money, and if used in the demo is weak at every point...ill post more later...
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c3pr
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Post by c3pr on Aug 24, 2011 16:53:31 GMT -5
some of these caddies are factory equipped with controlled differential(POSI) and are rare, I have one ;D best way to find out is in the trunk, if it has jacking instructions you got it...
I had to set the motor back about 8" from the original mounts, I used 3/8 plate and welded it straight on both sides, heated and bent downward until motormounts were where I felt comfortable...I also had to extend the tranny crossmember back as well , just a couple plates, and welded it to stock tranny crossmember. you will also have to build yourself a driveshaft, or buy a slip shaft. tucking the trunk is key, but you will also have to either dimple, or notch the frame, and I recommend you notch or dimple in 2 places, just in front of the humps, and right where the perimeter frame turns into the C channel, doing this in my opinion will create a battering ram effect. I strengthened the body quite a bit by cutting in 2" strips, the fender upwards and bolting it creating a 4 ply fender. I used 3/4 allthread thru core support, inner fenders and firewall because thats all my rules will allow, you can also use the angle iron trick, that works real well. Ill post more as I work on the car, any questions ask !
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t1of3
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Post by t1of3 on Aug 24, 2011 19:35:22 GMT -5
this might sound crazy but, i want to set the motor back in my 69 caddy fleetwood. ive never done this stuff before, it would be the first time around my place to be done. depending on how far i move it back, will i have troubles with the master cylinder? and, how far does it have to be mover back for me to use an engine mounted gas pedal? thanks for any feedback. to answer your question we really need to know what engine you are running and if it has a front or rear sump oil pan. thanks, my brother was asking the questions but he has been off to work, we are going to be putting a 500 in it, so stock motor, so what you are saying is i should come off the orig cradle with c channel and then weld to the frame further back?? kinda like a "L" looking pice running parral to the frame?? then just mount the motor on that correct?? thanks much bc i will be doing the work for him
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Post by 54t on Aug 24, 2011 22:22:47 GMT -5
[quote author=c3pr board=gm thread=92 post=21101 time=1314. you can also use the angle iron trick, that works real well. Ill post more as I work on the car, any questions ask ![/quote]
What is the angle iron trick? Haven't heard that term before.
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Post by kirbybuilt54 on Aug 25, 2011 0:06:40 GMT -5
this might sound crazy but, i want to set the motor back in my 69 caddy fleetwood. ive never done this stuff before, it would be the first time around my place to be done. depending on how far i move it back, will i have troubles with the master cylinder? and, how far does it have to be mover back for me to use an engine mounted gas pedal? thanks for any feedback. to answer your question we really need to know what engine you are running and if it has a front or rear sump oil pan. thanks, my brother was asking the questions but he has been off to work, we are going to be putting a 500 in it, so stock motor, so what you are saying is i should come off the orig cradle with c channel and then weld to the frame further back?? kinda like a "L" looking pice running parral to the frame?? then just mount the motor on that correct?? thanks much bc i will be doing the work for him If i am correct that caddy 500's are a front sump pan. In order to move it back you will have to lift it up a few inches before pushing it back in order to clear the steering arms. With the motor this hight you may very well have to cut out most of the firewall and the trans/driveline tunnel. As for buid an engine craddle with c-channel off the crossmember and tieing it into the frame I think you are on the right track.
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c3pr
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Post by c3pr on Aug 25, 2011 16:10:27 GMT -5
[quote author=c3pr board=gm thread=92 post=21101 time=1314. you can also use the angle iron trick, that works real well. Ill post more as I work on the car, any questions ask ! What is the angle iron trick? Haven't heard that term before.[/quote] instead of running allthread thru the hood, you can weld 2 pieces of angle iron back to back on the hood and bolt together...
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c3pr
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Post by c3pr on Aug 25, 2011 16:14:01 GMT -5
keep in mind im working on a 1965...I think the years 65-69 are basically the same, I think in 68 they added a few things that make them better than previous years...anyone know what it is that makes the 68+ better ?
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Post by hitme25 on Aug 25, 2011 18:32:32 GMT -5
I had to but my olds 350 back about 6 inches. All I did was weld two plates on both ends of the cradle then took some 1/8 in angle iron welded that to the cradle to the farthest end of the plate for support held up good
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