Post by Dan-Ervine-383 on Nov 20, 2012 6:42:58 GMT -5
Yeah. It'll have kickers to the rear humps and also a set to the back side of the a arms in the front. Don't have many worries about it bellying out. Just don't want the back to get separated from the frame. Wasn't sure how much strength those skin bumpers had in that department. I'll be going against full frame Imp's and a lot of new style fords with kickers in them as well. Also would a 6.20 gear be too radical to get this big heavy ass thing moving around? ;D
Post by Dan-Ervine-383 on Nov 20, 2012 21:05:07 GMT -5
We have a pretty short track. It's on a horse racing track so it is kind of a sand type surface. I've got some super swamper tires that are about the size of a 7.00 15 that will help cut the gear some. I just realized today that I'm gonna have about a 100 bucks worth of 1 inch all thread in the back when it's all said and done. ;D ;D
Post by pasterofmuppets on Dec 1, 2012 8:08:18 GMT -5
Was anyone able to archive any of the information from the old site before it crashed? Just curious, because the old thread was huge, and a lot of us spent quite a bit of time making suggestions and answering questions. It would be nice to have the info available again for all those who truly need it.
Just to get the juices flowing, lets get this tips thread back and rolling with some basic questions that need to be addressed routinely.
1) Rules permitting, what is the best way to secure and/or modify the rear bumper on 71-73 GM Wagons and on 74-76 GM wagons? Is there a difference? Would you swap out and run a 71-73 rear wagon bumper on a 74-76 if you had the option? Discuss...
2) In a show where stock car/truck leafs (no homemade leafs) are manditory and your wagon has sagging/broken/structurally weak stock springs, what make and model vehicle would you turn to to supply a replacement leaf pack while considering small or no modifications to install properly.
3) Is it better to attempt to tie the body into the frame in the rear as tightly and firmly as possible to prevent seperation of the body from the frame, or to allow the body to seperate from the frame to try and prevent bellying?
Of course I have my opinions on the above, but I'm trying to get this thread moving again and refilled with info. Discuss...
Rodney Travis US Army 2007-Present "HELL, I WOULD ROLL MY GRANDMOTHER OVER FOR A MAD DOG TROPHY..... " -Crusher71
This is the stuff I jotted down from the old site: Gm wagons Here's my tip, go to my webpage and read! Seriously the main concern with any 71-73 Chevy or any of the BOP's is to ensure you swap the bumpers for a good 74-76 Chevy. Some of the Olds bumpers are but the Buick and Pontiacs will bend down. You can flip these upside down but your better off witha Chevy if you can find one. The rest of the tips are on my main page, but another big concern with wagons is keeping the sheetmetal together on the assend, you need to bolt, weld, chain and wire to keep it form seperating from the frame. The rear bumper is not connected to the frame so a few big shots and it will shear off and leave your rear frame exposed and then you frame rails will get bent everywhere. Body bolts are crucial in a wagon especially the rear ones of course, one that is often neglected is the ones in front of the rear hump, under the back seat. This is where the wagon will belly hard it not tied together good. Also add the extra on the hump if allowed. There are a ton of more tips so guys give up some of you best ones. The straighter and harder you make the leafs, the tougher the back end will be and the harder it will make it for the humps to kink. If you are allowed to flat strap, weld, or clamp the springs do so excessively.
Chaining the rearend is always a good thing. It solves many problems, no idea how, but it has always worked for me.
As far as preventing the humps from kinking completely, I am not the guy to ask, I'll admit it, I load the frame, but for my rules that is perfectly legal. For a stock derby I actually obey the rules and don't touch the humps. you can make a wagon stronger by turtle backing it (tucking it) or making it a sedaggon, however you want to refer to it, by smashing the roof down level with the fenders. This packs everything tighter and makes it much harder to bend. Most people do not do this right away, they run the wagon straight the way it is a couple times until the rear end is trashed. Then, to allow them to get more life out of the wagon, they pull the back end back out, tuck it, and weld it together, giving them a couple more runs out of the car.
To prevent the wagon from bending at the humps there is a simple remedy if you are allowed to plate. Simply weld a piece of 2 inch angle iron between the humps on the inside behind the tires. The humps can't push together so the force of the hits with the rearend is distributed to the weakest point of the frame (right where the frame makes it bend to go up at the humps. If you plate this area as well, and use the extra body mount on the top of the humps, the wagon will try to belly just in front of the rear tires, so you need to fix that problems also. After that, the wagon should be pretty stout in the back end.
By pulling out the back end when the leafs have already bent pretty baddly, the leafs will be weakend. This means when you derby it, they could break, twist, or fold in weird ways. I would leave the leafs where they are, reinforce the leafs in the position they are in and concentrate on reinforcing the frame. torch two holes in the tailgate....and run 2 chains around the bumper through the tailgate and through the rear floor through the frame, suck it tight Run threaded rod through the rear bumper to the cross brace of the frame.
Be sure to run chains from the rear bumper to the D posts, with a bolt going through the post and not around it. Big washers hereto give the humps strength i like to move the leafs up in the rear shackle area..i cut the main leaf about 8in down and re hook it back up INSIDE the frame with a bolt going thru the frame and thru the leaf eye..no more shackles required...its best to weld the leaf back on to the stack..but some rules dont allow welding on the leafs..so 2 clamps will work also...its a good tip to keep those humps from kinking...no chains required...oh and throw a bolt thru the frame where the leaf hooks up in the front..it keeps the frame from going under the rear seat areas...rear lower arches..is what we call emm..weld the bolt too... Thread mod we could take out about 20 pages if you would delete the how good are the 71-76 roundback questions....
Now my question... Anybody short leafing a round back & if you are what are you getting your spring off of?
I am curious to see if tucking the springs in the frame will keep them from bending at the hump.
short leafing a wagon does keep the top hump from blowing..i did it for yrs when they didnt allow chains... we would cut a section off the main and move it down bolt it thru the frame and weld the leaf...of course it can only be welded down the sided never width ways..itll break the lower leaf....then clamp it..ive even ran it where they didnt allow any welding on the leaf..so wed tuck the 12" section of leaf under the first one..then put 2 clamps on it..
i need a front clip for 73 chevy wagon. How close are the front clips/ dog houses to a 71-76 sedan? I'm sure with cutting supplies and a welder anything could work, just didn't want to pick something up and find out the wagon front end was longer or something goofy.
Chevy sedan will bolt right up, 71-2 will be a little different as they didn't have shock cups for the core to sit on but the bolt location is the same, 73-6 no problem, BOP cars is another story as their clips are longer, they will bolt at the firewall but the front mount won't line right up
i just got a ý1972 Pontiac roundback waggon and it is 9 out of 10 and the rust is in the rear quarters. The post are spotless and so is the fram and floors. Should i run it as low as i can. It is my first ever roundback. any help be greatly appreciated.