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Post by pasterofmuppets on Nov 6, 2012 11:55:30 GMT -5
always chain the humps if allowed. Don't cut anything out of the spare tire well, that side almost always is the weakest and bends first anyways. For the tailgate, I always roll mine halfway down, and like bluecrew72 said, find some nice fitting angle and it will help you alot.
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Post by furyous44 on Nov 6, 2012 12:34:59 GMT -5
Cool! Thanks guys. Ive seen wagons around here (ohio) that had the spare tire well cut out. I guess for wheel clearance so I wondered about that. Ive also heard of people taking off the rear shock bumper from a 74-6 and replacing it with a 71-3 bracket bumper. Is this necessary?
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Post by bluecrew72 on Nov 6, 2012 18:18:12 GMT -5
71-3 has advantages to the rear construction, and there isn't brackets that hold it on, it's bolted essentially to the body, There are some that also have disadvantages imo as the angle of some I think force them to belly quicker...
not easily interchanged...
74-6 are a little different animal, take a look at it I'm sure you'll come up with some ideas, they can be just as effective pending your bumper rules...
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Post by furyous44 on Nov 6, 2012 18:46:37 GMT -5
Okay. The reason I ask is because 10 years ago I ran a 75 Buick wagon at our fair. In the feature the back bumper started going down, and after the show was over the face of the bumper was parallel to the ground but everything was still intact. Dont want that to happen again.
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Post by pasterofmuppets on Nov 7, 2012 5:39:11 GMT -5
I've done multiple things with the rear bumpers in the past. Personally I like the 71-73 setup better, with the bumper essentially bolted to the body. I feel it displaces the impact shock more and allows the back end to stay more intact structurally for a longer period of time (if set up correctly). I've put 71-73 rear bumpers onto 74-76's with some modifications, redneck engineering, and lots of welding wire and all-thread to great results. I've also treated the rear bumper of a the 74-76's like a front bumper so to speak. Collapsing what I can and making it as solid and hardnosed as possible. Best results came from a show that allowed rear shocks inside the frame. Those rear shocks became 3/8 in walled 3 inch tubing inside the frame. Take a good hard look, check your rules, and get creative.
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Post by Schober20k on Nov 7, 2012 20:16:02 GMT -5
I saw a picture on here of a rear bumper on a 74-76 wagon that they cut or notched the backing out of the rear bumper to weaken it so it packs in better, I will search for the pic
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Post by pasterofmuppets on Nov 7, 2012 21:03:27 GMT -5
^^^Yeah, years ago the fad was to literally just run the back bumper skin of a 74-76 GM wagon to try and replicate the effectiveness of the 71-73's. Haven't seen many people do it anymore though.
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Post by bluecrew72 on Nov 7, 2012 21:13:38 GMT -5
^^^ ya can't see that working too well.
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Post by pasterofmuppets on Nov 7, 2012 21:29:12 GMT -5
^^^ ya can't see that working too well. I never said it worked, said it was a fad. lol
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Post by bluecrew72 on Nov 7, 2012 21:30:22 GMT -5
Lol ya I got that was more agreeing than anything lol
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Post by cowdoc on Nov 7, 2012 22:07:43 GMT -5
so, here's my 73 after 1 hit Doesn't seem so special to me. What is the best fix (can't sedagon). Do I want to pull it back out or get it to roll under the leafs?
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Post by bluecrew72 on Nov 7, 2012 22:37:54 GMT -5
1 hit?!?! What happened to take you out?
I don't see a ton wrong here you'll be ok... It is coming off the frame like it needs to to keep from bellying
I would put the driver side tangent to a tree right at about the gas tank door maybe a little behind and then take a piece of equipment and try to push whatever you can inward with out torching then make any tire clearance you can by beating and torching if you can... This should also crease the driver side inward nicely from the tree
The next time you drive it, you must make a conscious effort to hit someone hard with the driver side corner until it straightens out
This shows the need to hit square and the weaker side of all roundys, this really can happen 71-3 or 74-6 with a hard corner shot
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Post by cowdoc on Nov 8, 2012 21:59:43 GMT -5
sheared the ubolts on the axle. I don't think the hit had anything to do with it though. I think I overtorqued the u bolts with the airwrench when I put the 9" in and they snapped when I spun a donut. Fixed it with pickup bolts this time. Rules wont allow spring pack modification The body damage happened when I didn't hit the corner of a shocker square. The humps weren't damaged.
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Post by bluecrew72 on Nov 8, 2012 23:12:50 GMT -5
Wow never saw u bolts snap, I reuse them a lot too.... Time to ile drive the driver side corner into a rear tire till it straightens out
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Post by pasterofmuppets on Nov 10, 2012 7:09:04 GMT -5
It's rare, but I've seen the back bend like that before. Obviously the weak corner took a very hard lick. I always, early on, try to either hit square or slightly favor the driver's side rear until it starts packing, but you can't always choose your hits. The advice given above on how to go about correcting it is what I would follow. The only real question is did the body begin to rip off the frame on the damaged side.
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