demoboy333
Feature Winner
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Posts: 3,124
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Post by demoboy333 on May 14, 2019 21:06:42 GMT -5
I'd make sure I got the sub an unibody tight an where they couldn't bend with out bending both. I do it with all thread an bumper shock plate. An then run a arm straps off the lowers to help the sub from giving at. A arms next. If you plate all the holes a scope can get in then....... go to town!
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Post by puhtatuhchip114 on May 15, 2019 12:51:07 GMT -5
When swapping factory tie rods to aftermarket, does everybody put that rubber boot back on where the tie rod meets the rack or should I just see how far i can throw it?
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Post by fallinskiestwice on May 15, 2019 15:54:46 GMT -5
I always put it back on. I've broken too many racks to use beefed up tie rods though. I just use bolts and heim joints and stock outters and inners.
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Post by puhtatuhchip114 on May 15, 2019 20:56:21 GMT -5
Yeah I'll probably end up just buying brand new factory ones. Thanks bud.
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507
Future Icon
Posts: 15
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Post by 507 on May 29, 2019 12:55:46 GMT -5
running a stock class but can run 5inx5in plate welded on each side of frame. (stock body mounts) whats best place to mount these? option 1 just on sub frame or option 2 combine unibody and sub frame
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Post by fallinskiestwice on May 29, 2019 13:29:37 GMT -5
Are you allowed to run bumper shocks? Can the plate be welded 1-2 to the sub frame and 1/2 to unibody?
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507
Future Icon
Posts: 15
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Post by 507 on May 29, 2019 14:08:27 GMT -5
Are you allowed to run bumper shocks? Can the plate be welded 1-2 to the sub frame and 1/2 to unibody? no bumper shocks just crush boxes cut off and seam welded bumper welded to unibody and sub frame. and its a grey area that i think i can weld 1/2 to sub and 1/2 to unibody which i think would be the stronger option
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Post by fallinskiestwice on May 29, 2019 16:13:55 GMT -5
With the stock body mounts I think where you have them is a pretty good idea.
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jlane
Future Icon
Posts: 3
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Post by jlane on Jun 2, 2019 18:02:09 GMT -5
Okay so I know this issue has been talked about a thousand times and there's a thousand different GM ways and tricks to fix this however I'm going to ask again because I'm not good at all this technology stuff and looking through the threads excetera excetera so I have a Malibu 99 Malibu which is kind of considered a w body whatever with the 3100 I think it's the theft code kicking out because the engine will start and then immediately stall my light on the dash doesn't blink or anyting but once I try to start it that first time the light just stays on if you let it sit there for the whole 10 minutes it never goes off and never does anything else how can I get rid of that at this point I was told you put some type of resistor in between the yellow in the black wire or something like that but I'm not sure I need to know can someone help
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Post by overkill on Jul 8, 2019 9:22:57 GMT -5
First attempt at soild struts turned out good.some pipe welder and few hours. Wish could figure out to post pictures.
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Post by fallinskiestwice on Jul 8, 2019 10:51:08 GMT -5
Tinypic.com
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Post by hammbone1833 on Jul 28, 2019 14:27:30 GMT -5
So I have a 90 lumina 3.1 still efi, ran perfect before derby and ran well until first hit in reverse. Flipped the car around short track and then it wouldnt stay running in gear. Revs up great in park and neutral, but in gear you can only barely feather it to get it to move now. I do have a fuel pump out of an 87 grand marquis, but it ran good at wot every time before derby. Anyone got an idea what happened?
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Post by fallinskiestwice on Jul 29, 2019 8:54:48 GMT -5
Check your fuel pressure at the port on the fuel rail.
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Post by hammbone1833 on Aug 1, 2019 19:07:30 GMT -5
Have not been able to check fuel pressure, but i have found out when the engines cold it doesn’t happen, but if the car runs for a few minutes and warms up, It just wants to sputter and die in gear. Any ideas? I tried changing the map sensor, didnt help. Vacuum line to map sensor seems fine. Not sure what else could be wrong.
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Post by hammbone1833 on Aug 2, 2019 11:45:47 GMT -5
Figured out a fix to my problem. Not sure why, but unplugging my temp sensor lets the car run perfectly.
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