sabicp
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Go Hard or Go Home!!!
Posts: 131
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Post by sabicp on Sept 15, 2011 11:51:12 GMT -5
Looking for some help on a 89 Grand Prix with a 2.5. To start with, the engine ran rougher than hell through most of the RPM range, until you got near red line then it smoothed out. Sometime it wouldn't start unless you floored it. Now it won't start at all. Pulled the air filter assembly and found a nice surprise. The air filter is completely soaked in gas. When I have the key on and hit the throttle, gas pours out the intake. Talked to a couple of friends and they are telling me that the injectors are shot and that replacing them will fix the problem. Curious what you guys think. Is that what the problem is? Or any idea what else could cause it? Looking to work on it this weekend and don't wanna start working on the wrong thing. I have a 3.1 I can pull any parts I need off of.
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Post by C4 on Sept 15, 2011 12:46:06 GMT -5
Pull the vacuum line off of the fuel pressure regulator & turn the key or fuel pump on. If you have gas coming out of the vacuum port, the regulator has blown out & it is flooding as a result.
At wide open throttle, the running engine starts catching up with the fuel that is pouring into it.
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sabicp
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Go Hard or Go Home!!!
Posts: 131
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Post by sabicp on Sept 15, 2011 13:41:52 GMT -5
So I may just have to replace the regulator instead of the injectors. Sweet, hopefully thats easier. Thanks C4!!
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Post by hvyeqop on Sept 15, 2011 21:58:25 GMT -5
yeah its alot easier and it sounds like thats your problem.
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sabicp
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Go Hard or Go Home!!!
Posts: 131
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Post by sabicp on Sept 17, 2011 20:45:53 GMT -5
And thank you for a detailed description of symptoms. I could be off base, but I don't think I am. The little test I mentioned will answer that quickly. Did the test today and you were right on. Fuel shot out the vacuum port like a water cannon. Changed it with a used one out of a 3.1 and I still can't get the car to run. Think I'm gonna get a new regulator. Very possible the one I put in could be shot. Also ended up swapping injectors too. Got ahold of a set from a friend out of a running 3800.
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Post by C4 on Sept 18, 2011 1:21:58 GMT -5
That used regulator could very well be from a slightly lower pressure setup.
Same with the 3800 injectors....they could very well be from a higher pressure setup.
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22k
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Posts: 11
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Post by 22k on Sept 18, 2011 1:34:07 GMT -5
i got a 1993 chevy lumina and i was wondering how to do the trunk, do you fold the trunk. Also do you knotch the sub frame to make it go up........ what are some good tips let me know im completely lost on this. Its my first on too.
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Post by hvyeqop on Sept 18, 2011 9:54:12 GMT -5
the best way we have just found out is to weld it all up and smash it all down on the frame.
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sabicp
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Go Hard or Go Home!!!
Posts: 131
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Post by sabicp on Sept 18, 2011 11:01:38 GMT -5
That used regulator could very well be from a slightly lower pressure setup. Same with the 3800 injectors....they could very well be from a higher pressure setup. Just talked to a buddy of mine about the injectors. He said the 3800 injectors won't work in a 2.8. The Ohms are completely different so they won't fire properly. Gonna swap injectors today and see if that works. Fingers crossed!!
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Post by twistedincx26 on Sept 18, 2011 15:11:49 GMT -5
Anbody know how to move computer and fuse box on a 92 lumina Its my first time building a lumina
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Post by bumpracerx on Sept 30, 2011 6:49:23 GMT -5
Just ran my second W-body yesterday. I took a good shot to the drivers rear corner and both control arms (the ones in front and back of the mono leaf) broke, the trailing arm broke and the strut kicked out and let the mono leaf pop out and dig in the ground. The back of the car I ran last year folded in so bad it wasn't safe to run again. I know how to build the front of these cars but what about the back. I can plate the outside of the humps but only with 1/8". I only hit with the front so all of the damage came from getting hit. Any ideas? Rebuild both of the control arms (the ones in front and rear of the mono leaf) with solid stock of the same dimensions. You really need an inspector that's on the ball to catch that one if you rust the metal up good. You can also beef up the trailing arms, and how they mount to the body if you really want to. The thing is though, the rear suspension on these cars were designed for performance, not durability. Protect your rear end and accept the fact that someone might be able to hit it from time to time.
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Post by bumpracerx on Sept 30, 2011 6:53:32 GMT -5
Without modifying the suspension, what is the tallest 14" tire that can go on the front of the older models? My Regal is a '90. In modern radial readings, such as 225/75/14, etc. And in old bias readings, such as 7.00x14, etc. Same question with 15" tires? I would just experiment, but the car is 350 miles away. When I go there, I want to have wheels ready to install. Thanks. First off, make sure you grab W body wheels. If you bring A body, etc, they will not work on these cars. They will hang on the calipers. From there, if you're just going to grab the car, keep the tires small and you'll know you're fine.
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mh17m
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Posts: 20
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Post by mh17m on Oct 2, 2011 1:16:52 GMT -5
Remove the front subframe bolts, add washers, allthread, a good bumper and use the nose!
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Post by hvyeqop on Oct 2, 2011 9:42:01 GMT -5
loose the bushing too if allowed.
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Post by hvyeqop on Oct 2, 2011 20:09:49 GMT -5
I figured out how to fix the tilt problem too. Drive a 3/16" piece of flat strap in the crack on top of the wheel with the tilt down and itll hold up good.
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