demoboy333
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Post by demoboy333 on Jun 2, 2019 22:23:02 GMT -5
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demoboy333
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Post by demoboy333 on Jun 2, 2019 22:35:16 GMT -5
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Post by nick18sf on Jun 2, 2019 22:49:25 GMT -5
First of all thank you for doing a build thread. It’s always fun to look at. I’m surprised more guys don’t run shockers. The ones out west here are killer. Your build looks great, I like those interior door bars! Keep the pictures coming!
Nick
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demoboy333
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Post by demoboy333 on Jun 2, 2019 22:52:35 GMT -5
First of all thank you for doing a build thread. It’s always fun to look at. I’m surprised more guys don’t run shockers. The ones out west here are killer. Your build looks great, I like those interior door bars! Keep the pictures coming! Nick Thanks it's about done. I'm having to finish this build quick so I can start my car that runs 6 days after this one. I'll try to do thread with it too.
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demoboy333
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Post by demoboy333 on Jun 3, 2019 20:11:50 GMT -5
Finally got rearend in an mounted Next pull preran over to get everything out an mounted in this car but suppose to rain for next few days.
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mopar17
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Post by mopar17 on Jun 3, 2019 20:47:50 GMT -5
Why the big gap between fenders and doors? I can’t see the spacer at the radiator support but I assume that’s the reason.
I’m with nick, surprised more guys don’t build them.
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ron17t
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Post by ron17t on Jun 3, 2019 20:49:20 GMT -5
I'd put a softer bumper on the back,I just use a metal skin bolted to the shocks to keep the rear rails together. Might be just me but I've never had good luck with hard rear bumpers on shockers.
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demoboy333
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Post by demoboy333 on Jun 3, 2019 20:59:10 GMT -5
Big gap is bc I had to put a 2 inch spacer in to pull my rad up. Core support is resting right on top of bumper. Wish I could weld doors solid. An the rear bumper will get trimmed to just on each side of shock. I've thought of removing bumper but then I talk with guys that say just run soft bumper the rear bumper does have some rust. If it starts going funny I'll cut it off but for this small county fair show it should be fine since I'm not using the rear at all.
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Post by dean88 on Jun 3, 2019 21:08:50 GMT -5
I'm interested in seeing how it turns out. I know where a couple shockers are I can get pretty cheap, but I'm honestly terrified of building one. I ran against quite a few of then in Vegas and what I noticed is they seemed to be hard cars longer than a GM does, but when they went away, they did it faster than a GM and completely fell apart.
Thanks for the build thread.
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demoboy333
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Post by demoboy333 on Jun 3, 2019 21:31:22 GMT -5
I'm interested in seeing how it turns out. I know where a couple shockers are I can get pretty cheap, but I'm honestly terrified of building one. I ran against quite a few of then in Vegas and what I noticed is they seemed to be hard cars longer than a GM does, but when they went away, they did it faster than a GM and completely fell apart. Thanks for the build thread. I've been building this one off an on since July. Been getting tons of info of different ways each guys build them. This build is a twist of landshark, owen, an punisher mostly then I added some of my normal.
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owen11x
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Post by owen11x on Jun 3, 2019 22:31:36 GMT -5
It looks good, its definitely got some twists from other builders but thats how you build better cars. I love my mopars. Shockers. Y framers pinch framers. It dont matter i love em all. They arent a full weld car and they always run out of car before a hour long feature but nose to nose with an impala. A shocker will stay straighter longer and stay stiffer longer been proven for years. Torsion bars work wonders as long as they dont push out. Mopars have been handling the pressure game pretty well for me lately so everybuild you just have to stretch and manipulate more and more. Use the back till you see the bumper come up then turn it around and send it. The front bumper on it is my favorite
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improse
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Post by improse on Jun 4, 2019 0:18:36 GMT -5
I'd put a softer bumper on the back,I just use a metal skin bolted to the shocks to keep the rear rails together. Might be just me but I've never had good luck with hard rear bumpers on shockers. I agree with the softer bumper for sure. unless you crete the top side of frame or add whatever that rearend will sky in a few hard hits. just curious on the leaf pack: ya flip every other leaf over ?
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demoboy333
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Post by demoboy333 on Jun 4, 2019 5:47:39 GMT -5
I'd put a softer bumper on the back,I just use a metal skin bolted to the shocks to keep the rear rails together. Might be just me but I've never had good luck with hard rear bumpers on shockers. I agree with the softer bumper for sure. unless you crete the top side of frame or add whatever that rearend will sky in a few hard hits. just curious on the leaf pack: ya flip every other leaf over ? 2 are flipped so it gives me a 2 inch curve to keep the rear bumper right at the bumper height limit.
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mopar17
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Post by mopar17 on Jun 4, 2019 21:40:10 GMT -5
I'm interested in seeing how it turns out. I know where a couple shockers are I can get pretty cheap, but I'm honestly terrified of building one. I ran against quite a few of then in Vegas and what I noticed is they seemed to be hard cars longer than a GM does, but when they went away, they did it faster than a GM and completely fell apart. Thanks for the build thread. They build really similar in the front to a GM. Some different things to pay attention to but the back is the biggest difference. If I were you I’d buy them up, run the nose and I’d bet you wouldn’t be disappointed.
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Post by cowdoc on Jun 5, 2019 22:51:28 GMT -5
If you can, consider doing a few things -make the firewall hole much larger for steering column and maybe get rid of front hanger -midplates are awesome but if you can only use straps or angle to brace engine put it at engine trans bolts across to frame at back dogleg as it bends in there. -your cradle may prevent it but the oem cradle crossmember will collapse at the bend so bracing the back of it is a good idea. -add some extra braces from engine crossmember to the control arm support brace like a cadillac. from that brace to the core support remove the rubber bushings and weld the supports solid. this will keep the whole front frame from going wonky. -be sure to chain humps -make sure the throttle cable doesnt get smashed, bent trapped when the engine is pushed back into firewall area -whether or not you remove pucks be sure to use long ready rod to replace body bolts, washer and nut inside frame but continue rod to bottom of frame, cut pipe to fit up to top of frame/nut and then use large washer and nut under bottom of frame.ie use pipe to keep top and bottom of frame from collapsing into each other
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