They're goofy bastards. If I remember correctly the unibody rails go way up high, and then dip down in front of the a-arm. If that's the case I'd try to make sure the front doesn't go down. I'd be inclined to put a solid rear axle under it, but that could be easier said than done. I'm going to guess that most folks haven't even looked under the hood of one of these. Post some pictures as you go along and bounce ideas around. It'd help to know what your rules are too.
I'll post some pics tomorrow. The rails are straight in the front all the way back to the firewall. I'm inclined to put a solid axle under it just was thinking it would be easier to avoid it if I could lol.
Here's the rules it will be built to.
-----------------GENERAL RULES ------------------------
This is for all classes unless otherwise noted:
POWER WHEELS: Motorcycle or lawnmower batter allowed. Can use self-tapping screws for traction. Age for power wheels is 3-10
EXHAUST: may use stacks or if using under car it should be cut off at least 12” behind driver’s seat and be bent out towards the side of the vehicle, OR STRAIGHT UP OR DOWN OFF THE MANIFOLD FANS: All belt driven PLASTIC (Nylon) fan blades CAN be used IF there is at least 12” of hood covering the fan area, you may use an electric fan with plastic or nylon blades only.
ANTIFREEZE: Must be removed and can be replaced with water. If not removed car will be disqualified.
BRAKES: Must be in working order for safety purposes on the track. Floor or cage mounted brakes WILL be allowed in ALL CLASSES
TRANSMISSION COOLERS; May be moved to the passenger area and must be totally enclosed including the lines. Electric plastic fans with shroud will be allowed.
GAS TANKS: ALL tanks are to be removed from the vehicles stock location, NO EXCEPTIONS!!!! A marine style or equivalent fuel cell (stock gas tanks can be used if properly moved, secured and covered), tank shall be installed in the rear passenger compartment, fastened down securely and covered with a fire shield which can be opened for inspection. All electric fuel pumps require a separate power switch within driver’s reach. Switch must be labeled fuel pump shutoff. Homemade fuel cells MUST BE: 1. Sturdy, 2. Securely Mounted, 3. Entirely leak proof or you cannot run!
Gas Tank Protectors: Can be used. Protectors must attach to CAGE ONLY!!! Protector will be no larger than 3 inches bigger than fuel tank and made of ¼ inch material. 8 inch gussets can be used on the protector. This is a FLOATING style protector.
FUEL LINES: Must be metal passing through the firewall and in the passenger compartment. ALL FUEL LINES MUST BE METAL LINE, OR HIGH PRESSURE RUBBER FUEL LINE INSIDE THE VEHICLE. ALL FUEL LINES NEED TO BE COVERED, RAN INTO AN OLD GARDEN HOSE IS ACCEPTABLE
TRUCK GAS TANKS: Must be mounted in the center of the bed near the cab or in the rear assenger part of an extended cab securely fastened down and covered with a metal shield. Fuel lines within passenger compartment and those that go through the body must be metal. It is recommended to bolt a thin steel plate to the frame then set the gas tank on it and secure the tank to the plate.
BATTERIES: are to be mounted solidly to car floor in the front passenger compartment with a rubber or plastic shield covering, batteries may also be mounted into passenger seat if secured and tight This is for ALL classes.
TIRES AND WHEELS: ANY style RUBBER tire is allowed (NO STEEL TIRES ALLOWED NO RIMS ONLY) No foam filling, solid or loading of tires is allowed. Tire inside a tire is allowed. Remove all wheel weights. No bead locking style of any type rim allowed. (Exception being WILD class) No valve stem protectors may be welded on. (Exception being WILD class)
BODY & INTERIOR: All glass, chrome trim, locks and anything else that might become embedded in the track must be removed. TOTALLY CLEAN IT OUT INCLUDING GLASS. Anything inside the car that is a fire hazard must be removed, including car interior, trunk pad and carpet... Driver door panel should be left in for safety of the driver, projecting latches, handles, etc. inside driver’s door must be removed. Remove brittle metal & fiberglass pieces’ front and back. A flash guard of some type MUST be installed covering the car firewall where large holes are produced after taking heaters and etc. out. Use light tin or some type of nonflammable material.
NO REINFORCEMENT will be allowed except as stated. Trailer hitches are to be removed.
BODY: Wheel wells may be trimmed for clearance however re-attachment should be no stronger than factory. Quarters and panels must remain in original position NO BODY CREASING WEDGING OR CANOEING OF THE TRUNK ALLOWED IN STOCK CLASS. MILD CLASS MAY CANOE AND CREASE BODY LINES, NO WEDGING
WINDSHIELD: ALL CLASSES
MUST be removed, you can cover with a wire screen securely fastened. You must install two safety straps from the body area behind the hood no more than 2" below the windshield line to the roof of the car to keep the hood from coming backwards through the windshield area, if running a distributor protector use only one safety strap in front of driver. WINDOW BARS, STRAPS ARE TO BE A THINNER MATERIAL THAT CAN EASILY BE CUT BY THE FIRE DEPT IF THERE IS AN EMERGANCY SITUATION. GAS TANK STRAPPING IS A GOOD CHOICE, OR TRUNK ROD
SPECIAL NOTE: PLASTIC BODY SATURNS MUST REMOVE ALL PLASTIC BODY PANELS... YOU MAY PUT SHEET METAL ON DRIVERS DOOR ONLY
STOCK CLASS-Compact and Youth compact
HOOD: Must have a hood with a hole cut over the carburetor in case of fire and be tied down after inspection with wire. Do not use chain!
DOORS: RECOMMENDED but not required, driver and passenger door can be welded vertical seams exterior only. A length of 2” angle iron may be welded to the driver’s door no higher than the bumper and no more than 2” past either door seam. Rear doors are allowed (3) 3”x3”x1/4”
patches per vertical seam. Cable, chain, seat belts tied are all also acceptable for all doors. If ANY door comes open car is disqualified.
TRUNKS, HATCHES, TAILGATES: Must be tied securely with cable, chain, seatbelt, or wire ONLY!
ENGINE: Engine swaps may be done. Homemade mounts will be allowed for motor and transmissions. NO ENGINE CRADLES OR DISTRIBUTOR PROTECTORS, NO SLIDER DRIVESHAFTS.
FRAMES: NO FRAME ALTERING OF ANY KIND ALLOWED you may notch rear frames but cannot pre bend. ALL FIX IT PLATES NEED PRE APPROVAL BY SHAWN HART PRIOR TO THE SHOW
BODY MOUNTS: NO BODY MOUNT MODIFICATIONS ALLOWED!
SUSPENSION: NO SUSPENSION MODIFICATIONS ALLOWED! Must be free floating as it was from the factory
BUMPERS: MAY ONLY USE A FACTORY AUTOMOBILE BUMPER. We will allow them to be welded onto the frame with ¼ plate to secure them or you can use bumper shocks ONE OR THE OTHER NOT BOTH plate MUST STAY RADIATOR SUPPORT FORWARD. No stuffing of bumpers will be allowed, BUMPERS MUST HAVE INSPECTION ACCESS. ONLY OEM SHOCKS MAY BE USED FOR THAT SPECIFIC CAR. In the original manner. Maximum bumper height of 20”