Post by Tory Schutte on Nov 14, 2017 19:50:49 GMT -5
Official Rules for 2018 Derby Icons. Final draft.
Derby Icons
N1178 Clover Rd
Genoa City WI 53128
Entry Form Click here.
All calls should be directed via text no calls past 10 pm plz&tnks Ryan Heaslip @ 608-214-3386 These rules are simple enough, if you have any questions please post on this thread for all to see, save us from answering repeat questions.
Bone Stock
Changes to our 2018Small bead ring allowed on rims
Engine cradles may only be plated on topside only.
Bone stock rearends may be modified.
Bone Stock Rules:
DO NOT READ ANYTHING INTO THESE RULES, JUST READ THE RULES!! If it doesn't say you can, YOU CAN'T!
Or you will be loaded, your choice!
NO black cars, dark cars must have contrasting letter/numbers. DO NOT paint anywhere on suspension or frame, we will not even inspect your car.
- Any year car EXCEPT No Imperials, no Suicide Lincolns, and no Hearses
- Body component must be direct bolt up only.Must be factory hardware or equivalent in size
- Remove all glass mirrors and plastic. Remove all decking in wagons
-Vehicles must be swept clean of all debris
- No sedagons, ZERO crease enhancement, ZERO sheet metal or frame shaping, forming or
folding.
- Deck and Hood must be 100% in stock location and open for inspection. After inspection you may tuck trunk with a single 90 degree bend.
- Anything can be removed, NOTHING can be added
- Fasten trunks, hoods, tail gates in 4 places, 2 strands of #9 wire, you may weld doors 6 inches total on each vertical seam only. Drivers door may be welded 12 inches total on vertical seams only. 2” x 1/8” strap. Do not weld hood or trunk, except 4-1/2" tack welds per washer 1"washers max
-BODYMOUNTS
you may add 3" of rubber for core support spacer
- if you choose to change ur core support mounts with 2 of ur threaded rod you get 3 plates1/4 thick 5x5 max OD 7 5/8 nuts 7 3"OD max 1/8 thick washers per threaded rod CORE SUPPORT ONLY
Body mounts and spacers to remain stock and in place.DO NOT EVEN TOUCH THEM Exception, You may change a total of 6 body bolts out, with 5/8" threaded rod 24"long max with 3 nuts, 3 5/8 store bought washers and 3 5x5 1/4" thick plates per rod. Must be straight vertical rod only, no bends or angle pieces. Must have 1 inch rubber or metal spacer no larger than stock body pucks and all bottom nuts must be inside frame. If they are broken or rusted out, a single piece #9 wire may be substituted. ZERO welding allowed to mount this rod. Rusted out body bolts may be removed and replaced with a single strand of #9 wire.
- #9 wire or chain required in front windshield.
- FRAMES
- You may dimple your rear frame rails
- NO welding on frames allowed.
- SUSPENSION
- you may change coil springs to a stiffer oem passenger car spring. Front springs in the front.Rear in the rear no swapping locations.
- All suspension must remain stock. ZERO aftermarket parts.
-Rear control arms may be changed but must be stock NO SHORTING %100 stock
- You may use (store bought spring spacers, no homemade no spacers on top of the springs)
- You may you a single strand #9 wire to hold coil spring to rear end and leaf sprung cars may use 4 single strands #9 wire as leaf clamps.
- DRIVETRAIN
- (2) 3/8 threaded rod two 3"wide straps bolted to core support with (2) 3/8 bolts per strap to hold radiator in.
- ANY drivetrain & transmission (manuals allowed no aftermarket bellhousings OEM only ) allowed with the following criteria.
- No pinion brakes
- Only the lower stock engine mounts may be welded to cradle only. You may use two 1/2" thick 6x6 spacers to raise engine. If you need more than 1/2 to raise engine to clear steering components, may not exceed rubber mount area. You may extend off back of cradle but nothing excessive, 1/2" flat plate only(example SBC in Caddy, Mopar)
- No tranny protectors, stock mounting only, stock cross members only.
- May use 2’’x 3’’x 6’’1/4 angle. If relocating (2- ½ bolts per side to mount to frame or weld to the side of frame
- You may weld rear end gears only.
- Rear end swaps allowed, no bracing, no welding, no re-enforcement unless specified. Max axle size 31 spline, Ford, GM or Mopar Clarification: All must be factory axles(cast flanges) and rear ends, we will allow you to weld factory brackets on rearend to mount any 5 lug passenger rearend. No added metal, do not weld tubes to center section or anywhere else, no bracing outside or inside. C-clip to Bolt-in mods allowed, no extra metal. All mods must be on rearend, nothing allowed on frame or body.
- All money winners will have to load on trailer, and pull axles before payout, we will check inside of tubes at this time.
- You may run 1 spot of #9 from rear end to frame per side, nothing thru body. 4 loops, 8 strands together in center twist only.
- Floor shifters allowed, headers allowed, gas pedals and brakes, Clarification: none may strengthen car. 6x 5/8" max bolts and 3" washer max.Clutch pedal may be mounted to dash bar only.
- No engine cradles, skid plates, protectors of any kind, and no aftermarket parts of this nature at all.
-If u run an LS you may use conversion brackets 3/16 max thickness no gussets. to except an old style rubber frame mount. Plz call.
- You may run the chevy to ford engine mounts 3/16 max thickness no gussets. 3 PLATE DESIGN PLZ CALL
- You may have 2-5/16 chains 1- per side attached from block or headers to engine frame mount not to frame or cradle nothing excessive only for safety
- You may swap engines, ie.. Chevy in a Ford.
- Slip shafts allowed at all shows.
-DRIVERS COMPARTMENT :
- 4 point square cage only, (1) down tube in the center of each front door welded to sheet metal only nothing to the frame. max 60 inch cage over all measurement. 6 inch max, Must be mounted horizontally and 6 inches off floor. Gussets only in interior of 4 point cage.
- Halo bar allowed (2)1/2 bolts with 1/2 washers to attach to roof, only to the back seat bar or sidebars, not to floor. Gas tank mount may be welded to back bar but must be 6 inches from rear sheet metal.
- Drivers door must be padded.
- Gas tank and single battery must be moved and secured. Tank behind the seat, Battery centered in the passenger front floor.
- Nothing may be mounted in a way that strengthens the car.
- Trans coolers allowed. Must be mounted inside 4 point cage area. Or on cage must be tight to cage if mounted on back bar.
Bumpers:
- you may weld rear bumper strait to frame or fallow the rules for the front bumper if using a shock.
- You may weld on any DI approved bumper(see below), you may weld bumper bracket(in factory location) to frame 4 inches from the back of bumper, , in addition you may put 4 one inch welds on back side of bumper bracket or to weld shock inside frame(example Crown Vics).
-
You may shorten 80 and newer fords up to an inch in front of the core support mount you may also be hard nosed
Old iron may shorten anything forward of the frame you want , You must have a 1 inch gap between frame and bumper, the only thing that can be in that one inch gap is your welded shock.
---If your car did not come with a shock(example 71 Chevy) you may use a 74-76 BOP bracket mounted in stock location with stock bolts, only welding described above. Call with special cars to mount bumper legally.
- Or you may chain, 2 piece of chain per side BOLTED from the mount to mount to hold on the bumper.
- Any approved DI tire, Brakes MUST work.
Only welding allowed is doors, bumper, engine mount, cage and rear end gears! This build should only take 3 days, if you spend more than that you are overbuilt for this class and will not run!
If you call me on these, the answer is most likely NO! Simple rules, simple build, keep it that way. Again do not get "creative" or read into these rules, let’s get back to the basics. If it is not clearly described above, it is not allowed.
SS Class
Refer to everything above(Bone Stock) for your body, suspension, steering, interior and frame. For your "drivetrain" only, refer below(Icon rules). Your drivetrain ends at your frame side engine mount, your transmission mount and the top ears on rear end.
Aftermarket Steering column will be allowed
Icon Class
red rules are changes from 2016 to 2017.
Highlights Aftermarket control arms allowed with rubber
Front plate may be on any side of frame
Aftermarket Spindles allowed
Bumpers 9X9 only
Make your own hump plates
Safety plates from cage to floor
Automatic load for items listed, buy a tape measure
Derby Icons General rules: Old Iron, 80 and newer, Compacts and Future Icons. All rules in bold are new or stressed for 2016.
- NO BLACK CARS, at any show in any class, exception first team registered and last year’s Champ. No dark colors without contrasting lettering scheme. All cars must be painted, this is a premier event and we expect your cars to look sharp.
- Small Car wheelbase is 108" maximum no full frame cars, 6 cylinder maximum.
- All vehicles must have a roof sign, Minimum 15" x 15", Maximum 24" x 24", contrasting colors. -These may not be positioned in such a way as to strengthen the car. Official’s decision is final.
- No Imperials, any year, Imperial sub frames, Ambulances, Hearses or limousines allowed.
- All bodies must be mounted on stock OEM frames for that year and make of car.
- NO PAINTING, BUFFING, OILING OR UNDERCOATING OF FRAMES. THESE CARS WILL NOT BE INSPECTED OR ALLOWED TO COMPETE.
- Driver must wear helmet, seat belt and eye protection at all times.
- All vehicles must have a fire extinguisher mounted within the drivers reach, inside the car.
- All Drivers must pick up trophies, earnings and all goodie bag items at the completion of the event, or forfeit them. They will not be available after that date.
- These are not suggestions. This is NOT a menu. This is what is allowed as far as preparation of the car. Please do not try to read anything more into these rules. “THIS IS WHAT YOU ARE ALLOWED TO DO TO PREPARE YOUR CAR.”
COMPETITION RULES:
- Drivers must remain in the vehicle with helmet, seatbelt and eye protection on until notified by an official that it is safe to exit the vehicle.
- Driver’s door hits are illegal. If the hit is deemed by the official to be careless or intentional, you will be disqualified. If you use your driver’s door as a defense, we will not enforce the rules. If you use the door defense repeatedly you will be disqualified.
- No hot rodding in the pits. Keep it at an idle.
- Any open door will be cause disqualification, you are allowed one fire, and then second fire will be cause for disqualification. You may return in later rounds.
- Sandbagging is not tolerated and will be strictly enforced. Locking up the brakes prior to a hit for anything other than a driver’s door will be a cause for disqualification. The fans pay to see a show, put one on for them!
- You must make AGGRESSIVE HIT every 60 seconds.
- You will be given ample time for restarts. We do not use the clock exclusively. We try to work with you if you are hung up. Hitters get more time than sandbaggers.
- This is not a team event(except SE); team driving will not be tolerated.
- THERE IS NO ALCOHOL IN THE PITS. This includes pit crews. If you or ANY of your crew is caught with alcohol, you will be disqualified.
- All cars are subject to a post race inspection before any prize money is awarded.
- You must be a driver to protest, the fee is $100 and you must have cash in hand. This protest must take place immediately at the conclusion of the feature event. The protesting driver must have competed in the same class as the driver he is protesting.
- Any questions, CALL FIRST. Don’t assume anything. The Officials decision is final.
CAR BUILDING GUIDELINES:
GENERAL PREPARATION:
- All glass, plastic and pot metal must be removed. Nothing may remain in the bottoms of the trunk or doors.
- All outer hardware must be removed - door handles, mirrors, chrome, moldings, screws, fiberglass, etc. No added weight to any car.
- Rear seats in all cars and all decking in station wagons must be removed.
- Front seats must be securely bolted to the floor, however, these bolts may NOT go thru the frame! You must have a functioning seat belt.
- All flammable materials must be removed from the car other than safety padding and the driver’s seat.
- No fresh sedagon or wedge cars are allowed.
TIRES & BRAKES:
- No tires taller than 30". 4 wheels max per car. No duals.
- No split rims, studded tires or 100% solid wheels, you may use aftermarket center with various bolt patterns, solid centers are fine, but no outer rim re-enforcement. Welds must be approved by judges on rear tires. No outer bead welding or plating. Stay off the area of the rim the tube touches, except to weld your center into the rim.
- Valve stem protectors allowed, wheel weights must be removed. Valve stem protectors may not extend more than 6 inches from valve stem. Not allowed to be a rim protector.
- Bead locks must not extend past stock tire bead area, not to exceed 2 inches wide. Only allowed on inner bead, 1 inch outer lip ring 3/16 thick allowed on outside bead.
- Doubled or foam filled tires allowed.
- All cars must be able to demonstrate the ability to stop at any time. If your brakes do not work, you will not compete.
- You may not change tires after inspection, ride height will be measured with your competition tires only.
BUMPERS, BUMPER BRACKETS:
********Bumper may not exceed 9’’x9’’.************
- BUMPERS are interchangeable for all cars. Includes compact and midsize cars.
-BUMPER-IF you start with a stock/replacement bumper you are allowed to re-enforce inside of bumper. Also, bumpers must start and stop at the end of the frame. Bumper must appear stock from the stands with no spike or protruding items.
-All bumpers must have a factory skin, if your bumper will not fit in a factory skin, it is too big
- You may weld the outer chrome skin to the bumper inner frame
- Bumpers may be cut to keep them out of the tires.
- Bumpers may be flipped (upside down).
MOUNTING:
You may mount your bumper one of two way, not both.
*First way is same as in past:
- You may shorten frame in front of mount but must utilize stock body mount hole.
- You may weld the bumper seams, bumper shocks and the brackets to the frame. You may not weld any further than 4 inches behind the radiator support AT ALL when mounting your front bumper brackets on any car. No bracket or welding may be done further than 4 inches behind the radiator support other than the top frame seam. – NO
EXCEPTIONS!
- If you choose not to use brackets, you may weld your bumper directly to the frame.
- You may not weld the bumper to the body at any time.
- Compression bumper shocks may be drained, slid back into the shock and welded fully.
- All bumper brackets and shock components must be OEM automotive materials.
- You may not reconfigure a bracket or change shock mount location.
- Only shocks allowed inside frames are the original shock and configuration from factory.
- No REAR bumper brackets allowed on front. - You are not allowed to plug weld frame holes on BOP cars.
- Buick, Olds and Pontiacs may fill the large hole in the frame behind the radiator support. This must be a butt fit, 1 pass weld only. NO overlap allowed. - (2-straps 1-Per side )You may weld a 2" x 6" x 1/4" strap from the bumper to the frame to help keep the bumper on the car
This must remain in one piece. It cannot be angled to the corner of the bumper to form a kicker. 6" is the maximum length.
**OR**(pick one not both)
*Second method to mount bumper:
- Remove all brackets and shocks and discard.
- Leave forward radiator support mount in stock location (bolted/floating mounts such as Cadillac may be welded to frame in stock location.
- You may shorten frame in front of mount but must utilize stock body mount hole.
-You may weld core support spacer to bumper
- (2 plates 1 per side) You May weld a 4 inch wide by 3/8 thick plate from bumper to forward most part of top A-arm bracket , any outside frame side(top/bottom/inner/outer) one side only you pick, nothing inside. Do exceed. - You may run 4 loops of #9 wire from the radiator support to the bumper in 2 locations outside of the radiator - You may weld (2)- 2" x 6" x 1/4" strap( per side) from the rear bumper to the frame to help keep the bumper on the car.
- You may also run 2 pieces of all thread 5/8" x no more than 14" thru the body pan to help hold the rear bumper on. 5" washer maximum for this bolt.
- Bumper height must be 16" to 22" measured to the bottom of the frame at the back and front body mount location.
- Nothing may be inside frame, and do not "Great Stuff" between frame and radiator support mount.
Any questions call first
FRAMES:
************ If you weld anything to your frame not in our rules, you will be LOADED!!!!! No exceptions!!!!!**************
- The only frame welding allowed is from the front of the a-arms forward( top side only) do not reweld A-arm brackets to frame, , no more than ONE ½" wide bead .
- The bumper strap to frame welding is covered in the bumper section.
- NO other frame welding is allowed. No plating, stuffing, heat treating or foam filling of frames is allowed. Do NOT paint or undercoat your frame or you will not even be inspected and loaded. We want to see all welds bare, DO NOT PAINT!
- You may weld your motor mounts to the engine cradle, not to the frame rails.
- Rear frame rails may not be shortened. No dowel pinning of the frame is allowed.
- You may notch the frame for minimal pre-bending, but do NOT weld the cut.
- You may run a chain or cable or #9 wire from rear rail to rear rail behind the rear humps. 3/8" chain maximum.
- You may chain or wire your axle to the frame hump. You may NOT use strapping of any kind for this. Wire or chain only. 3/8" chain maximum. Chain must go around frame on full frame cars, do not bolt through hump creating a frame pin, and except uni-body cars may use 1 bolt per side thru the frame for this.
- You may not weld the chain links to create a bar effect.
- There is no frame shaping allowed at all. Do not sharpen the corners of the frame or square them in any way.
-Hump plates may be added to any coil sprung cars, may be ¼ inch thick max, 22" long by 6 inches tall and must be centered and in hump. You may make or buy your own. You may plug weld. These may not be welded on in a way to impede any natural rear-end movement.
BODY BOLTS:
- All body bolts may be replaced with up to 5/8" bolts, maximum 8" length.
- Core support bolts may be 1" diameter. Core support bolts may go thru the hood and count as 2 of your 6 hood bolts.
- You may use pipe up to 2" OD to run the core support all thread thru for spacers. These pipes may be welded to the core support using 3/16" strapping, 2 -4" pcs. Max per pipe.
- Body Washers and body spacers must be free floating Do not weld.
- Do NOT weld the body washers to the floor. Maximum washer size is 5" x 3/16".
- Space must be maintained between the body and the frame; Minimum 3/4".
- Do not bolt the body directly to the frame.
- You may add 2 body mounts in the position of your choice. They must be welded to outside frame only.
- If your station wagon came with the body bolts in the humps, these are your 2 additional mounts. You will NOT be allowed to add more mounts.
- If you decide to bolt your coil springs in place thru the frame and the rear package tray, these will count as your added mounts.
- Wagons are permitted to run 2 of the rear 4 mounts thru the rear pillars. NOT THE ROOF. They must be in the pillar at the tailgate area.
- Chrysler products may run 1" all thread behind the radiator support, but must drill a hole in the frame to bolt the all thread.
- Do not weld anything to the frame, all items must free float.
ENGINES:
- Any engine may be used in any car, but it must be mounted within 5" of the original motor.
- You may chain the motor, Chains may not be attached any higher than cylinder heads, header flanges of engine plates. 1 Chain per side, 3/8 max
- You may weld in additional supports to the engine cradle area, but they may not be attached to the frame rails at any point. Only allowed for holding engine in place.
- front wheel drive cars may use 2x2 tubing for upper engine mounts
- engine protectors allowed must stay tight to engine an can not connect to cage come in contact with cage or window bars..
RADIATORS, RADIATOR SUPPORTS:
- Radiator must be in the stock position in front of the motor.
- Radiator supports must remain in the stock location, DO NOT MOVE.
- OEM style radiators only, no homemade tube construction radiators.
- You may not add cooling capacity. No supplemental cooling devices allowed.
- Expanded metal in front of radiator must be 1/8 inch or less thickness, and only attached in 4 spots (3/8 bolts or 4 - 1 inch welds).
- Core support spacers must stay on top of frame
FUEL DELIVERY SYSTEMS:
- No plastic gas tanks allowed. Marine tank or metal fuel tank only.
- 10+ gallon tank recommended. No coffins, be reasonable! 6x 5/8 inch bolts and 3 inch washer max to mount.
- Gas must be centered in cage for maximum safety and minimal structural enhancement.
-Gas tank may be attached to floor or cage not both
-Gas tank mount may not exceed 32’’wide.. If mounted to the floor (NOTHING MAY KICK UP REAR FIREWALL OR PACKAGE TRAY)
- Original gas tanks must be removed from the car.
- You must have the gas tank securely mounted behind the driver’s seat and it must be covered.
- Fuel lines must run inside the car, not under the car along the frame.
- Fuel lines must be secured to the floor and kept from pinch points
- Automotive pump gas only, NO ALCOHOL.
- Electric fuel pumps are allowed. They must be covered and have an on/off switch near the steering wheel and clearly marked in large letters.
- All lines must be double clamped.
- If your gas tank or way of mounting is not safe you will not run!
BATTERIES:
- A maximum of 2 - 12 volt batteries may be used.
- They must be secured inside the car in front of the passenger seat and covered.
- Rusted out holes in your floor sheet metal may be patched where components will be mounted or for drivers safety, sheet metal only. No other sheet metal patching is allowed unless it is a safety issue. You may not patch clean and solid floors.
- When patching you may NOT weld, you must bolt, self-tap or pop rivet all patches. No components to include: gas pedal, battery boxes, etc. may be welded, you must bolt only. No part or patch may be attached to any vertical sheet metal (firewall), all must be patched or mounted in the horizontal floorboards only. No oversized mount plates or boxes. Do not mount anything within 6 inches of any body bolt. (Exception of center body mount in belly rail)
- Do not mount batteries against firewall or crush boxes, position as far back as possible.
- No floor mount component may structurally enhance the car. 6 bolts max, 5/8 inch hardware, 3 inch washers max.
TRUNK LIDS:
- Trunk lids must remain 50% in the stock location. The trunk lid must remain on hinges.
- You may fasten your trunk lid in ALL OF THE FOLLOWING 3 ways:
1. You may weld 5 on and 5 off 3" x 1/8" strap max.
- AND -
2. You may weld 4 pcs. of 5/8" all thread vertically to the rear frame rails and run them thru the trunk lid. No double nutting. You may use a 5" washer on the trunk lid bolts, plates may not be welded and must be free-floating.
- AND -
3. You may place up to 8 - 3/8" bolts in the drip rail area of the trunk lid OR around inspection holes.
- There must be 12" minimum hole in the trunk lid for inspection purposes.
- Trunk lid seams must be clearly visible and accessible, do not pound over.
- Relocation of the speaker deck is not allowed it must remain in stock/factory location. -No Relocating of any sheet metal components. (DO NOT REMOVE HINGS OR SPEAKER DECK)
-Your trunk lid may be V’ed in the center but must remain 12 inches off the trunk floor over frame or the unibody rails
- No fully wedged cars, rear quarters and tail light valance must remain vertical. (Stop trunk lid at the top of valance) if trunk lid is any lower than the tail light valance you will have to raise it.
HOODS:
- Hoods may be bolted, wired or chained shut ONLY.
- You may use 6 bolts 8" long max top hold the hood, front two may be 1" max, other 5/8” or less.
- The 2 front bolts may go thru the frame, NOT welded to the frame. The other 4 must be sheet metal to sheet metal.
- If you use chain or wire, you may weld up to 5" washers to the hood. If bolting, the 5" washers must be free floating.
-You may install up to 12 - 3/8" bolts or self-tapping screws in hood.
- NO welding of cut outs is allowed.
- You must have a minimum 10" hole in the hood for fire protection.
- Hoods must be open at inspection time.
DOORS:
- Doors may be welded 5” on, 5” off, outside only (this means no straps should be touching another strap) 3" x 1/8" strap maximum.
-You may smash the inner and outer skin together and weld them solid, NO added metal. This includes wagon tailgates
- If you do not weld your doors you must chain or #9 wire them closed in at least 2 spots. You may NOT bolt your doors shut.
- Drivers door may have window netting for driver’s safety. NO other windows may have netting.
- You may weld a plate Maximum 6" x 1/4" across the front doors for protection, not to exceed 6" beyond the front door seams. NO GRADER BLADES. These plates must be in the center of the door, run horizontally.
- Wagon tail gates may be welded:
1. 5 on 5 off, not solid,
**OR**
2. you may bolt the tailgate as in previous years. 4 bolts, 4 nuts, 3/4” max
**OR**
3.you may weld 5” pieces of angle to the tailgate and quarters and use 3/4 “ max bolts pick 1 not all 3.
WINDOWS:
- You must have a piece of rebar/all thread/chain (3/8 max),#9 wire or 3”X 1/4”max flat straps. No angle or tubing running from the roof to the cowl in the windshield area for drivers protection
- 2-1/2 bolts per mounting location , up to 2 pieces max. - This may not be designed as reinforcement to the car and must be space at least 18 inches apart on the bottom, and no cross connections. -No other added metal or mount plates, either weld directly or bolt to sheet metal only. No component may be mounted, welded or bolted within 6 inches of the DP or engine protector.
- You may use 2 loops, 4 strands of #9 wire total in each window opening. This wire may go to or around the frame.
- Station Wagons may not use wire in any window opening beyond the rear passenger door window opening.
- The wire must remain in the field of that window. They may not crisscross the interior of the car.
- No rear window bars allowed.
BODY BOLTS:
- All body bolts may be replaced with up to 5/8" bolts, maximum 8" length.
- Core support bolts may be 1" diameter. Core support bolts may go thru the hood and count as 2 of your 6 hood bolts.
- You may use pipe up to 2" OD to run the core support all thread thru for spacers. These pipes may be welded to the core support using 3/16" strapping, 2 -4" pcs. Max per pipe. cannot be welded to fenders 6"max length
- Body Washers and body spacers must be free floating Do not weld.
- Do NOT weld the body washers to the floor. Maximum washer size is 5" x 3/16".
- Space must be maintained between the body and the frame; Minimum 3/4".
- Do not bolt the body directly to the frame.
- You may add 2 body mounts in the position of your choice. Can be welded to sub frame. They must be welded to outside frame only.
- If you decide to bolt your coil springs in place thru the frame and the rear package tray, these will count as your added mounts.
- Wagons are permitted to run 2 of the rear 4 mounts thru the rear pillars. NOT THE ROOF. They must be in the pillar at the tailgate area.
- .
- Do not weld anything to the frame, all items must free float.
CAGES
- You may use channel or tubing up to 6" for the door bars. Total length is not to exceed 60". This bar may not be more than 18" behind the center post on 4 door cars and 10" behind the door seam on 2 door cars - No exceptions.
- Dash bar and seat bars may not exceed 6" diameter 1 bar max per side. No double bars. Seat bar must be no further than 6" behind the seat. All bars must be straight pieces no contoured pieces.
-If you run a DP do not mount your dash bar closer than 3" inches to the rear most point of the firewall/cowl, YOU WILL NOT RUN. - -Sedans only, are allowed a gas tank protector, 24” X 6” inches, centered in the back seat area. There must be a 1” space between the back bar and all sheet metal, may not be attached to anything other than back seat bar. All interior sheet metal must remain in stock position. Do not pound!
- You may add a diagonal bar behind the driver’s seat and directly below the seat bar running from the seat bar to the floor sheet metal.
- You may add 4 total VERTICAL down bars. They must measure at least 5" length and be attached to the bottom of the side bars or seat bar do not add to the end or the side bars , must maintain a TOTAL of 60 inches or less for side bars., welded to your door bar and to the floor sheet metal. These bars may not attach to or conceal a body mount, or be within 5 inches of any body mount or plate on rear wheel drive.
- No kickers, angled or otherwise. NO cage components may be welded to the frame.
- All horizontal cage components must be at least 5" off the floor of the car, including gas tank protector, side bars measured at door elevation where floor meets rocker,.
- All cage components must be in the interior of the car, not inside the door structure with the exception of the driver’s side. This door bar MAY be inside the door structure to allow more room for driver’s safety.
- All gussets must be on the interior of the 4 point cage.
- You may run a 1/4 solid plate from cage to floor and may extend 1 inch past inner door seam for welding. May be welded solid on all four sides. PASS Front an DRIVERS Front only doors only!!
HALO OR ROLLOVER BARS:
- You must add a halo bar to the cage components listed above. It may not exceed 5" in diameter.
- On a 4-door post car, this bar must attach the side bar in line with seat bar, no exceptions.
- On a 2-door or 4-door non-post car, this bar may be attached to the floor sheet metal.
- Halo bars must be in a direct vertical line with the seat bar.
- Halo bars may NOT be angled toward the rear of the car. They must be vertical.
-You may bolt the halo bar to the roof sheet metal in 2 places.
FRAMES:
************ If you weld anything to your frame not in our rules, you will be LOADED!!!!! No exceptions!!!!!**************
- you will be required to have a 1 inch store bought washer welded to the frame behind the strut and cut a hole for inspection
- The only frame welding allowed is from the front side of ENGINE CROSS MEMBER forward do not reweld brackets to frame, , no more than ONE ½" wide bead .
- The bumper strap to frame welding is covered in the bumper section.
- NO other frame welding is allowed. No plating, stuffing, heat treating or foam filling of frames is allowed. Do NOT paint or undercoat your frame or you will not even be inspected and loaded. We want to see all welds bare, DO NOT PAINT!
- You may weld your motor mounts to the engine cradle, not to the frame rails.
- Rear frame rails may not be shortened. No dowel pinning of the frame is allowed.
- You may notch the frame for minimal pre-bending, but do NOT weld the cut.
- You may run a chain or cable or #9 wire from rear rail to rear rail behind the rear humps. 3/8" chain maximum.
- You may chain or wire your axle to the frame hump. You may NOT use strapping of any kind for this. Wire or chain only. 3/8" chain maximum. Chain must go around frame on full frame cars, do not bolt through hump creating a frame pin, and except uni-body cars may use 1 bolt per side thru the frame for this.
- You may not weld the chain links to create a bar effect.
- There is no frame shaping allowed at all. Do not sharpen the corners of the frame or square them in any way.
-Hump plates may be added to any coil sprung cars, may be ¼ inch thick max, 22" long by 6 inches tall and must be centered and in hump. You may make or buy your own. You may plug weld. These may not be welded on in a way to impede any natural rear-end movement.
BUMPERS, BUMPER BRACKETS:
********Bumper may not exceed 9’’x9’’.********
- Bumpers are interchangeable for all cars.
- IF you start with a stock/replacement bumper you are allowed to re-enforce inside of bumper. Also, bumpers must start and stop at the end of the frame. Bumper must appear stock from the stands with no spike or protruding items.
-All bumpers must have a factory skin, if your bumper will not fit in a factory skin, it is too big
- You may weld the outer chrome skin to the bumper inner frame
- Bumpers may be cut to keep them out of the tires.
- Bumpers may be flipped (upside down).
- You may shorten frame in front of mount but must utilize stock body mount hole.
-You may weld core support spacer to bumper
- (2 plates 1 per side) You May weld a 4 inch wide by 3/8 thick plate from bumper to forward most part of top A-arm bracket , any outside frame side(top/bottom/inner/outer) out side of frame only. one side only you pick, . Do exceed. - You may run 4 loops of #9 wire from the radiator support to the bumper in 2 locations outside of the radiator - You may weld (2)- 2" x 6" x 1/4" strap( per side) from the rear bumper to the frame to help keep the bumper on the car.
- You may also run 2 pieces of all thread 5/8" x no more than 14" thru the body pan to help hold the rear bumper on. 5" washer maximum for this bolt.
- Bumper height must be 16" to 22" measured to the bottom of the frame at the back and front body mount location.
- my use 6" piece of square or round tubing as a bumper shock for the rear bumper
SUSPENSION, STEERING:
- NO SUSPENSION PART MAY REINFORCE FRAME
- any after-mark or OEM automotive spindle accepted.
- No coil to leaf conversions in compact class, homemade hump plates only (not supplied)
- Leaf springs must be in the factory position.
-Aftermarket trailing arms may be used but must contain a rubber bushing.
- Rear end braces are allowed, but they may serve no purpose other than to strengthen the rear end housing. They may not extend from the rear end further than 6” and may not be higher than the top of the axle tube.
- You may change coil springs
- Suspension must be factory car suspension unless stated otherwise.
- You may NOT remove the shocks and put pipe or all thread in their place.
- You may weld or bolt or chain down your A-arms, pick one and only one.
- All chains, bolts or welds must be in the middle of the A-arm.
- you may use a piece of pipe to hold up struts, do not cover or connect to gas filled shock area, just the top. The rest of the
strut is to remain in stock configuration and location.
- You may reinforce your tie rods, but you must use the OEM tie rod ends.
- Pipe Tie Rods are allowed but you must use the stock ends, no aftermarket hiems.
- Steering wheel to Steering gearbox may be modified.
- Aftermarket steering columns allowed.
- Shock absorbers must be factory replacement for that year, make and model of car.
- No truck shocks, no exotic shocks, no mystery shocks, no oversized shocks.
- Air shock lines must be cut.
TIRES & BRAKES:
- No tires taller than 30". 4 wheels max per car. No duals.
- No split rims, studded tires, you may use aftermarket center with various bolt patterns, solid centers are fine, but no outer rim re-enforcement. Welds must be approved by judges on rear tires. No outer bead welding or plating. Stay off the area of the rim the tube touches, except to weld your center into the rim.
- Valve stem protectors allowed, wheel weights must be removed. Valve stem protectors may not extend more than 6 inches from valve stem. Not allowed to be a rim protector.
- Bead locks must not extend past stock tire bead area, not to exceed 2 inches wide. Only allowed on inner bead, nothing allowed on outside bead.
- Doubled or foam filled tires allowed.
- All cars must be able to demonstrate the ability to stop at any time. If your brakes do not work, you will not compete.
- You may not change tires after inspection, ride height will be measured with
BATTERIES:
- A maximum of 2 - 12 volt batteries may be used.
- They must be secured inside the car in front of the passenger seat and covered.
- Rusted out holes in your floor sheet metal may be patched where components will be mounted or for drivers safety, sheet metal only. No other sheet metal patching is allowed unless it is a safety issue. You may not patch clean and solid floors.
- When patching you may NOT weld, you must bolt, self-tap or pop rivet all patches. No components to include: gas pedal, battery boxes, etc. may be welded, you must bolt only. No part or patch may be attached to any vertical sheet metal (firewall), all must be patched or mounted in the horizontal floorboards only. No oversized mount plates or boxes. Do not mount anything within 6 inches of any body bolt. (Exception of center body mount in belly rail)
- Do not mount batteries against firewall or crush boxes, position as far back as possible.
- No floor mount component may structurally enhance the car. 6 bolts max, 5/8 inch hardware, 3 inch washers max.
FUEL DELIVERY SYSTEMS:
- No plastic gas tanks allowed. Marine tank or metal fuel tank only.
- 10+ gallon tank recommended. No coffins, be reasonable! 6x 5/8 inch bolts and 3 inch washer max to mount.
- Gas must be centered in cage for maximum safety and minimal structural enhancement.
-Gas tank may be attached to floor or cage not both
-Gas tank mount may not exceed 32’’wide.. If mounted to the floor (NOTHING MAY KICK UP REAR FIREWALL OR PACKAGE TRAY)
- Original gas tanks must be removed from the car.
- You must have the gas tank securely mounted behind the driver’s seat and it must be covered.
- Fuel lines must run inside the car, not under the car along the frame.
- Fuel lines must be secured to the floor and kept from pinch points
- Automotive pump gas only, NO ALCOHOL.
- Electric fuel pumps are allowed. They must be covered and have an on/off switch near the steering wheel and clearly marked in large letters.
- All lines must be double clamped.
- If your gas tank or way of mounting is not safe you will not run!
ENGINES:
- Any engine may be used in any car, but it must be mounted within 5" of the original motor.
- You may chain the motor, Chains may not be attached any higher than cylinder heads, header flanges of engine plates. 1 Chain per side, 3/8 max
- You may weld in additional supports to the engine cradle area top side only, but they may not be attached to the frame rails at any point. Only allowed for holding engine in place.Do not cover any seams with weld or plate.
- All hoses must be covered in driver’s compartment for driver safety
- No engine oil coolers are allowed.
- You must have an air cleaner over the carburetor at all times.
- No starting fluid is allowed.
- Mopar’s or K member cars are allowed to secure K member in the following ways:
->Remove pucks and bolt tight to frame, stock size bolts only.
->Leave pucks in between and weld 4 - 3 inch welds, total (not per side) of 12 inches only.
DISTRIBUTOR PROTECTORS/CRADLES:
- If you run a DP do not mount your dash bar closer than 5 inches to the rear most point of the firewall/cowl, YOU WILL NOT RUN. An will not be able to fix at the track
- Distributor protectors allowed, must be attached to engine or transmission only, back side that contacts the firewall must be no wider than 12 inches, must not contact cage before, during or after the event. It may not be welded, bolted or connected to body, hood or frame. Forward supports must be inside normally positioned headers and not extend past the water pump mount bolts.
- Aftermarket Distributor protectors, cradles and pulley protectors are allowed.
- You may beat flat the engine side of the firewall only, do not weld or bolt firewall. Do not re-enforce the firewall/cowl. Do not crease, paint, bolt, weld on, weld to or modify the firewall/cowl in any way.
- Mid plates and front plates must not extend further that 2.5 inch past engine or transmission. Any part of protector contacting or will contact dash must be less than 12 inches wide.
- Lower cradles must mount similar to a factory mount, any bars connecting mid plate to cradle must be below the cylinder heads.
- Pulley protectors must not extend more than 8 inches.
- Any cable routing tubes must maintain the 5 inch gap to dash bar.
- Keep protector within reason! Vince has final say!
TRANSMISSIONS:
- Transmissions must be of passenger car origin, transmission coolers may be used, but they must be secured in such a way to prevent injury.
- Metal or braided lines must be used. No fuel or low-pressure lines may be used.
- Coolers must be secured in a container in the passenger compartment of the car.
-Transmission protectors are allowed with the following criteria:
- They may not rise more than 1 inch above the highest point of the bell housing, including the attachment point
- They may not attach or brace to the cross member, frame, or any part of the cage components
- They may be fabricated of tubing or round stock of no greater OD than 3/4
- If flat material is used, it can be no thicker than 3/8. These components may not be used in tandem to create a material thicker than either of these measurements.
- Trans blanket is recommended.
- OEM Tran cross member or 2"x2" OD 1/4” max replacement. Must be mounted with at least a 1/4 space from all trans protector components.
- Cross member may not exceed factory curves(less than 6 inch bow)
- You may weld or bolt a 3’’x 3’’ inch angle iron to inside frame, 5 inches max to facilitate the mounting of cross member.
- Center mount may not exceed a normal Trans mount bolt area 6 inch max, no additional bracing allowed.
SKID PLATES:
- Skid plates are allowed. They may be one piece from engine to transmission.
- They may not extend past oil pan or transmission pan. Don’t connect to transmission cross member. Must be 1 inch space.
- NO bolting or welding the skid plate to the frame.
REAR ENDS:
**You may run 10 lug or floater rear ends. No part of rear end may strengthen the car’s frame or body in any way.
- You may use any type of rear end (Ford / Mopar / GM / Hybrid).
- You may tilt the rear end by lengthening or shortening the trailing arms. OEM Trailing arms must be of passenger car origin and may be reinforced.
Aftermarket trailing arms may be used but must contain a rubber bushing.
- Rear end braces are allowed, but they may serve no purpose other than to strengthen the rear end housing. They may not extend from the rear end further than 6” and may not be higher than the top of the axle tube.
HOODS:
- Hoods may be bolted, wired or chained shut ONLY.
- You may use 6 bolts top hold the hood, front two may be 1" max, other 5/8” or less.
- The 2 front bolts may go thru the frame, NOT welded to the frame. The other 4 must be sheet metal to sheet metal.
- If you use chain or wire, you may weld up to 5" washers to the hood. If bolting, the 5" washers must be free floating.
-You may install up to 12 - 3/8" bolts or self-tapping screws in hood.
- NO welding of cut outs is allowed.
- You must have a minimum 10" hole in the hood for fire protection.
- Hoods must be open at inspection time.
DOORS:
- Doors may be welded 5” on, 5” off, outside only (this means no straps should be touching another strap) 3" x 1/8" strap maximum.
-You may smash the inner and outer skin together and weld them solid, NO added metal. This includes wagon tailgates
- If you do not weld your doors you must chain or #9 wire them closed in at least 2 spots. You may NOT bolt your doors shut.
- Drivers door may have window netting for driver’s safety. NO other windows may have netting.
- You may weld a plate Maximum 6" x 1/4" across the front doors for protection, not to exceed 6" beyond the front door seams. NO GRADER BLADES. These plates must be in the center of the door, run horizontally.
- Wagon tail gates may be welded:
1. 5 on 5 off, not solid,
**OR**
2. you may bolt the tailgate as in previous years. 4 bolts, 4 nuts, 3/4” max
**OR**
3.you may weld 5” pieces of angle to the tailgate and quarters and use 3/4 “ max bolts pick 1 not all 3.
WINDOWS:
- You must have a piece of rebar/all thread/chain (3/8 max),#9 wire or 3”X 1/4”max flat straps. No angle or tubing running from the roof to the cowl in the windshield area for drivers protection - 2-1/2 bolts per mounting location , up to 2 pieces max. - This may not be designed as reinforcement to the car and must be space at least 18 inches apart on the bottom, and no cross connections. -No other added metal or mount plates, either weld directly or bolt to sheet metal only. No component may be mounted, welded or bolted within 6 inches of the DP.
- You may use 2 loops, 4 strands of #9 wire total in each window opening. This wire may go to or around the frame.
- Station Wagons may not use wire in any window opening beyond the rear passenger door window opening.
- The wire must remain in the field of that window. They may not crisscross the interior of the car.
- No rear window bars allowed.
Body:
- Body creasing, enhancing of existing body lines and addition of body lines is allowed to the sides of the car only. - Do not fold the metal over to create a doubled effect; any spot with 4 layers of sheet metal will be torched out completely. Trunk lid seams must be clearly visible and accessible.
- No doubling of body panels allowed, no added metal allowed
- Quarter panels must remain vertical. Tail light valances must remain vertical.
- NO SEAM WELDING other than the exterior driver’s doors.
- Core support seam welding is NOT allowed.
- Washers for #9 Wire may be welded to the roof sheet metal. They may be a maximum of 1 ½" diameter. **No washers may be welded for future wire installation.
- Holes may be cut in the floor & firewall to accommodate the shifter, fuel lines, and transmission lines.
- You may cut a hole in the firewall to accommodate the engine, within reason must have fire wall covered. With rubber or nonflammable material.
- You may have up to 5 - 3/8" bolts in each wheel opening. They may not be higher than 5" above the stock lip location of the wheel opening.
CAGES & DOOR BARS:
- You may use channel or tubing up to 6" for the door bars. Total length is not to exceed 60". This bar may not be more than 18" behind the center post on 4 door cars and 10" behind the door seam on 2 door cars - No exceptions.
- Dash bar and seat bars may not exceed 6" diameter 1 bar max per side. No double bars. Seat bar must be no further than 6" behind the seat. All bars must be straight pieces no contoured pieces.
-If you run a DP do not mount your dash bar closer than 5 inches to the rear most point of the firewall/cowl, YOU WILL NOT RUN. - -Sedans only, are allowed a gas tank protector, 24” X 6” inches, centered in the back seat area. There must be a 1” space between the back bar and all sheet metal, may not be attached to anything other than back seat bar. All interior sheet metal must remain in stock position. Do not pound!
- You may add a diagonal bar behind the driver’s seat and directly below the seat bar running from the seat bar to the floor sheet metal.
- You may add 4 total VERTICAL down bars. They must measure at least 8 in length and be attached to the bottom of the side bars or seat bar do not add to the end or the side bars , must maintain a TOTAL of 60 inches or less for side bars., welded to your door bar and to the floor sheet metal. These bars may not attach to or conceal a body mount, or be within 5 inches of any body mount or plate.
- No kickers, angled or otherwise. NO cage components may be welded to the frame.
- All horizontal cage components must be at least 8" off the floor of the car, including gas tank protector, side bars measured at the body bolt elevation, dash bar measured at trans tunnel.
- All cage components must be in the interior of the car, not inside the door structure with the exception of the driver’s side. This door bar MAY be inside the door structure to allow more room for driver’s safety.
- All gussets must be on the interior of the 4 point cage.
- You may run a 1/4 solid plate from cage to floor and may extend 1 inch past inner door seam for welding. May be welded solid on all four sides. PASS Front an DRIVERS Front only doors only!!
HALO OR ROLLOVER BARS:
- You must add a halo bar to the cage components listed above. It may not exceed 5" in diameter.
- On a 4-door post car, this bar must attach the side bar in line with seat bar, no exceptions.
- On a 2-door or 4-door non-post car, this bar may be attached to the floor sheet metal.
- Halo bars must be in a direct vertical line with the seat bar.
- Halo bars may NOT be angled toward the rear of the car. They must be vertical.
-You may bolt the halo bar to the roof sheet metal in 2 places.
TRUNK LIDS:
- Trunk lids must remain 50% in the stock location. The trunk lid must remain on hinges.
- You may fasten your trunk lid in ALL OF THE FOLLOWING 3 ways:
1. You may weld 5 on and 5 off 3" x 1/8" strap max.
- AND -
2. You may weld 4 pcs. of 5/8" all thread vertically to the rear frame rails and run them thru the trunk lid. No double nutting. You may use a 5" washer on the trunk lid bolts, plates may not be welded and must be free-floating.
- AND -
3. You may place up to 8 - 3/8" bolts in the drip rail area of the trunk lid OR around inspection holes.
- There must be 12" minimum hole in the trunk lid for inspection purposes.
- Trunk lid seams must be clearly visible and accessible, do not pound over.
- Relocation of the speaker deck is not allowed it must remain in stock/factory location. -No Relocating of any sheet metal components. (DO NOT REMOVE HINGS OR SPEAKER DECK)
-Your trunk lid may be V’ed in the center but must remain 12 inches off trunk floor at body mount location; speaker deck can be 10 inches at body mount location will be measured at speaker holes.
- No fully wedged cars, rear quarters and tail light valance must remain vertical. (Stop trunk lid at the top of valance) if trunk lid is any lower than the tail light valance you will have to raise it.
*80’s and newer
- You may pitch, tilt or tip 80’s and newer style cars in 1 of the 3 following ways only:
1. You may cold pitch, no added metal
2. You may cut all four flaps and pull the front end down moving the flap ½ inch and re-weld. Do not re-weld any other crush box seams, no added metal.
3. You may pitch at the transmission cross member, since you are already allowed to weld a 5 inch piece of angle there to mount your cross member.
*98 and newer
- Watts-link conversion for Fords. You may convert a Watts-Link to a standard 4 link system in the following way: Use the upper and lower trailing arm brackets off an older Ford. After market brackets are allowed, but no thicker than ¼ inch and may be attached with max of (5)-1/2 and 2-3/4 – bolts each side. No positioning of brackets to strengthen the front down legs of the rear hump, must be mount in the stock location.
- Any watts link brackets not utilized may not be altered to reinforce frame.
*03s and newer
- All material used must not exceed 1/4 inch thick, max thickness is 1/2" inch only were two pieces meet.
- You must provide a one inch inspection hole in spring bucket, you may weld 1 inch washer around it.
- Must run the original aluminum cradle and stock lower A-arm. Aluminum cradle must be visible, do not wrap entire cradle, bottom straps limited to 8 inches flat straps.
- Upper A arm, motor mounts and spring bucket must mount off the 2 existing cradle bolts. No frame welding allowed for these components.
- No mounting plate or component may extend more than 2 inch in front of or behind the cradle bolts, measured from middle of of the bolt, this rule will be strictly enforced.
-You may use any automotive or fabricated spring bucket but it must not strengthen the frame in any way, cannot not be larger than necessary to hold coil spring. Again must be mounted off 2 existing cradle bolts. DO NOT weld to frame in any way.
- No pinning of frame. YOU WILL BE LOADED NO CHANCE TO FIX!!!!
- To mount steering box, you may weld a tube to the top and bottom of frame. Do not weld excessively. Max tube size is 1" OD, 1/2" bolts max. Gear box adapter may not exceed gear box footprint. No wrapping.
- Do not weld any seams behind the A-arm, even if the factory skip welded the seam, do not weld!
- If you choose to pitch, this must be done at the Trans cross member only.
- You may cut the excess frame off the front rails but you may not move the front body mount. All body mounts must remain in stock location.
SUSPENSION, SPRINGS:
- NO SUSPENSION PART MAY REINFORCE FRAME
- any after-mark or OEM automotive spindle accepted.
- No coil to leaf conversions in compact class, homemade hump plates only (not supplied)
- Leaf springs must be in the factory position.
- You may change coil springs
- Suspension must be factory car suspension unless stated otherwise.
- You may NOT remove the shocks and put pipe or all thread in their place.
- You may weld or bolt or chain down your A-arms, pick one and only one.
- All chains, bolts or welds must be in the middle of the A-arm.
- If you run 80s Ford or GM A-arms on 98-02 Ford you may replace the factory center bar to the bolt heads only. No welding on frame.
1. You are allowed 2- 2” x 3’’ max strap welded per A-Arm, nothing may contact the frame rail, and all attachments must be made to spring bucket only. 1’’ON ARM 1’’ON SPRING BUCKET
**OR**
2. One chain, welded to spring bucket only.
**OR**
3. One bolt per side welded to spring bucket only, may hold upper or lower A-arm, but not both.
- No spring spacers may be used
- You may not plate, reconfigure or re-enforce A-arms
- You may reinforce your tie rods, but you must use the OEM tie rod ends.
- Pipe Tie Rods are allowed but you must use the stock ends, no aftermarket hiems.
- Steering wheel to Steering gearbox may be modified.
- Aftermarket steering columns allowed.
- Shock absorbers must be factory replacement for that year, make and model of car.
- No truck shocks, no exotic shocks, no mystery shocks, no oversized shocks.
- Air shock lines must be cut.
LEAF SPRINGS:
- 9 leaf maximum, 5/16 " max thickness, 2 ½" wide maximum.
- 58" minimum, 60" maximum spring length.
- Stagger - 3" long side (rear of axle), 2" short side (front of axle).
- 5 clamps per spring, 2 in front of the axle, 3 behind the axle.
- Clamp material 1/4" thick, 2" wide, 2 – 3/8" bolts per clamp.
- U-bolts - 1/2" maximum
- No homemade mounting plates or oversized U-bolts will be allowed.
- No welding on the spring pack
- No flat sprung cars - leaf pack must have a minimum of 2" of arch.
- No duct taping of springs prior to inspection.
- Postal Mopar brackets are excepted (only 4- 1/2 bolts) when mounting spring to rear-end stay tight to rear-end like factory
Coil Sprung cars are allowed the following:
Leaf Convert(not allowed on compacts)(no hump plates allowed):
-Any rear end - 10 lugs are ok
- 9 leaf maximum, 5/16 " max thickness, 2 ½" wide maximum.
- 54" minimum, 60" maximum spring length.
- Stagger - 3" long side (rear of axle), 2" short side (front of axle).
- 5 clamps per spring, 2 in front of the axle, 3 behind the axle.
- Clamp material 1/4" thick, 2" wide, 2 – 3/8" bolts per clamp.
- U-bolts - 1/2" maximum
- No homemade mounting plates or oversized U-bolts will be allowed.
- No welding on the spring pack
- No flat sprung cars - leaf pack must have a minimum of 2" of arch.
- No duct taping of springs prior to inspection.
- Rear mount - 6X6X1/4" shackle, has to be a working shackle in rear.
-Front eyelet mount, pick ONE:
1. In trailing arm bracket, w/3x3x1/4" gusset
2. In the frame with a bolt thru - no added metal
3. Box welded to the frame 4X6X1/4" maximum, must mounted at lower control arm bolt.
-No all-thread struts, must have shock absorbers.
-NO ADDED METAL OTHER THAN WHAT IS SPECIFIED ABOVE. NO EXCEPTIONS.
**INSPECTION PROCEDURES:
- Official’s decisions are final.
- You will be given one (1) opportunity to correct items on your car.
- Each car gets a maximum of 2 times thru inspection. (0ne re inspect)
- Cars will be impounded after inspection and staged in a secure location.
- You must be completely ready to bolt the hood down during inspection and then put the car in the staging area.
- No further work will be allowed and cars will not be allowed to return to their trailers.
- Do not come to the inspection line if you are not done preparing your car.
- Any added or welded metal plate/rod or material not specifically covered in the rules, will be removed completely as well as the surrounding metal. Don’t do it or your car will be weakened! Call ahead!
PRE-FEATURE/PRE-CONSOLATION CAR PREPARATION:
- You may use unlimited wire for consi or feature.
- Leaf spring cars may NOT replace leaf springs prior to either the consi or the feature.
- You may wire them or tape leaf springs, but may not replace them.
- No replacing of sheet metal components prior to the consi or the feature.
- After the heats, consi cars will be re inspected. Feature cars will be impounded.
- You may sedagon your vehicle after your heat, wire only, visibility for inspection must be maintained.
- Feature cars must be re inspected by 1pm and then impounded again. No further repairs will be allowed after this point.
COMPACT ONLY
Derby Icons
N1178 Clover Rd
Genoa City WI 53128
Entry Form Click here.
All calls should be directed via text no calls past 10 pm plz&tnks Ryan Heaslip @ 608-214-3386 These rules are simple enough, if you have any questions please post on this thread for all to see, save us from answering repeat questions.
Bone Stock
Changes to our 2018Small bead ring allowed on rims
Engine cradles may only be plated on topside only.
Bone stock rearends may be modified.
Bone Stock Rules:
DO NOT READ ANYTHING INTO THESE RULES, JUST READ THE RULES!! If it doesn't say you can, YOU CAN'T!
Or you will be loaded, your choice!
NO black cars, dark cars must have contrasting letter/numbers. DO NOT paint anywhere on suspension or frame, we will not even inspect your car.
- Any year car EXCEPT No Imperials, no Suicide Lincolns, and no Hearses
- Body component must be direct bolt up only.Must be factory hardware or equivalent in size
- Remove all glass mirrors and plastic. Remove all decking in wagons
-Vehicles must be swept clean of all debris
- No sedagons, ZERO crease enhancement, ZERO sheet metal or frame shaping, forming or
folding.
- Deck and Hood must be 100% in stock location and open for inspection. After inspection you may tuck trunk with a single 90 degree bend.
- Anything can be removed, NOTHING can be added
- Fasten trunks, hoods, tail gates in 4 places, 2 strands of #9 wire, you may weld doors 6 inches total on each vertical seam only. Drivers door may be welded 12 inches total on vertical seams only. 2” x 1/8” strap. Do not weld hood or trunk, except 4-1/2" tack welds per washer 1"washers max
-BODYMOUNTS
you may add 3" of rubber for core support spacer
- if you choose to change ur core support mounts with 2 of ur threaded rod you get 3 plates1/4 thick 5x5 max OD 7 5/8 nuts 7 3"OD max 1/8 thick washers per threaded rod CORE SUPPORT ONLY
Body mounts and spacers to remain stock and in place.DO NOT EVEN TOUCH THEM Exception, You may change a total of 6 body bolts out, with 5/8" threaded rod 24"long max with 3 nuts, 3 5/8 store bought washers and 3 5x5 1/4" thick plates per rod. Must be straight vertical rod only, no bends or angle pieces. Must have 1 inch rubber or metal spacer no larger than stock body pucks and all bottom nuts must be inside frame. If they are broken or rusted out, a single piece #9 wire may be substituted. ZERO welding allowed to mount this rod. Rusted out body bolts may be removed and replaced with a single strand of #9 wire.
- #9 wire or chain required in front windshield.
- FRAMES
- You may dimple your rear frame rails
- NO welding on frames allowed.
- SUSPENSION
- you may change coil springs to a stiffer oem passenger car spring. Front springs in the front.Rear in the rear no swapping locations.
- All suspension must remain stock. ZERO aftermarket parts.
-Rear control arms may be changed but must be stock NO SHORTING %100 stock
- You may use (store bought spring spacers, no homemade no spacers on top of the springs)
- You may you a single strand #9 wire to hold coil spring to rear end and leaf sprung cars may use 4 single strands #9 wire as leaf clamps.
- DRIVETRAIN
- (2) 3/8 threaded rod two 3"wide straps bolted to core support with (2) 3/8 bolts per strap to hold radiator in.
- ANY drivetrain & transmission (manuals allowed no aftermarket bellhousings OEM only ) allowed with the following criteria.
- No pinion brakes
- Only the lower stock engine mounts may be welded to cradle only. You may use two 1/2" thick 6x6 spacers to raise engine. If you need more than 1/2 to raise engine to clear steering components, may not exceed rubber mount area. You may extend off back of cradle but nothing excessive, 1/2" flat plate only(example SBC in Caddy, Mopar)
- No tranny protectors, stock mounting only, stock cross members only.
- May use 2’’x 3’’x 6’’1/4 angle. If relocating (2- ½ bolts per side to mount to frame or weld to the side of frame
- You may weld rear end gears only.
- Rear end swaps allowed, no bracing, no welding, no re-enforcement unless specified. Max axle size 31 spline, Ford, GM or Mopar Clarification: All must be factory axles(cast flanges) and rear ends, we will allow you to weld factory brackets on rearend to mount any 5 lug passenger rearend. No added metal, do not weld tubes to center section or anywhere else, no bracing outside or inside. C-clip to Bolt-in mods allowed, no extra metal. All mods must be on rearend, nothing allowed on frame or body.
- All money winners will have to load on trailer, and pull axles before payout, we will check inside of tubes at this time.
- You may run 1 spot of #9 from rear end to frame per side, nothing thru body. 4 loops, 8 strands together in center twist only.
- Floor shifters allowed, headers allowed, gas pedals and brakes, Clarification: none may strengthen car. 6x 5/8" max bolts and 3" washer max.Clutch pedal may be mounted to dash bar only.
- No engine cradles, skid plates, protectors of any kind, and no aftermarket parts of this nature at all.
-If u run an LS you may use conversion brackets 3/16 max thickness no gussets. to except an old style rubber frame mount. Plz call.
- You may run the chevy to ford engine mounts 3/16 max thickness no gussets. 3 PLATE DESIGN PLZ CALL
- You may have 2-5/16 chains 1- per side attached from block or headers to engine frame mount not to frame or cradle nothing excessive only for safety
- You may swap engines, ie.. Chevy in a Ford.
- Slip shafts allowed at all shows.
-DRIVERS COMPARTMENT :
- 4 point square cage only, (1) down tube in the center of each front door welded to sheet metal only nothing to the frame. max 60 inch cage over all measurement. 6 inch max, Must be mounted horizontally and 6 inches off floor. Gussets only in interior of 4 point cage.
- Halo bar allowed (2)1/2 bolts with 1/2 washers to attach to roof, only to the back seat bar or sidebars, not to floor. Gas tank mount may be welded to back bar but must be 6 inches from rear sheet metal.
- Drivers door must be padded.
- Gas tank and single battery must be moved and secured. Tank behind the seat, Battery centered in the passenger front floor.
- Nothing may be mounted in a way that strengthens the car.
- Trans coolers allowed. Must be mounted inside 4 point cage area. Or on cage must be tight to cage if mounted on back bar.
Bumpers:
- you may weld rear bumper strait to frame or fallow the rules for the front bumper if using a shock.
- You may weld on any DI approved bumper(see below), you may weld bumper bracket(in factory location) to frame 4 inches from the back of bumper, , in addition you may put 4 one inch welds on back side of bumper bracket or to weld shock inside frame(example Crown Vics).
-
You may shorten 80 and newer fords up to an inch in front of the core support mount you may also be hard nosed
Old iron may shorten anything forward of the frame you want , You must have a 1 inch gap between frame and bumper, the only thing that can be in that one inch gap is your welded shock.
---If your car did not come with a shock(example 71 Chevy) you may use a 74-76 BOP bracket mounted in stock location with stock bolts, only welding described above. Call with special cars to mount bumper legally.
- Or you may chain, 2 piece of chain per side BOLTED from the mount to mount to hold on the bumper.
- Any approved DI tire, Brakes MUST work.
Only welding allowed is doors, bumper, engine mount, cage and rear end gears! This build should only take 3 days, if you spend more than that you are overbuilt for this class and will not run!
If you call me on these, the answer is most likely NO! Simple rules, simple build, keep it that way. Again do not get "creative" or read into these rules, let’s get back to the basics. If it is not clearly described above, it is not allowed.
SS Class
Refer to everything above(Bone Stock) for your body, suspension, steering, interior and frame. For your "drivetrain" only, refer below(Icon rules). Your drivetrain ends at your frame side engine mount, your transmission mount and the top ears on rear end.
Aftermarket Steering column will be allowed
Icon Class
red rules are changes from 2016 to 2017.
Highlights Aftermarket control arms allowed with rubber
Front plate may be on any side of frame
Aftermarket Spindles allowed
Bumpers 9X9 only
Make your own hump plates
Safety plates from cage to floor
Automatic load for items listed, buy a tape measure
Derby Icons General rules: Old Iron, 80 and newer, Compacts and Future Icons. All rules in bold are new or stressed for 2016.
- NO BLACK CARS, at any show in any class, exception first team registered and last year’s Champ. No dark colors without contrasting lettering scheme. All cars must be painted, this is a premier event and we expect your cars to look sharp.
- Small Car wheelbase is 108" maximum no full frame cars, 6 cylinder maximum.
- All vehicles must have a roof sign, Minimum 15" x 15", Maximum 24" x 24", contrasting colors. -These may not be positioned in such a way as to strengthen the car. Official’s decision is final.
- No Imperials, any year, Imperial sub frames, Ambulances, Hearses or limousines allowed.
- All bodies must be mounted on stock OEM frames for that year and make of car.
- NO PAINTING, BUFFING, OILING OR UNDERCOATING OF FRAMES. THESE CARS WILL NOT BE INSPECTED OR ALLOWED TO COMPETE.
- Driver must wear helmet, seat belt and eye protection at all times.
- All vehicles must have a fire extinguisher mounted within the drivers reach, inside the car.
- All Drivers must pick up trophies, earnings and all goodie bag items at the completion of the event, or forfeit them. They will not be available after that date.
- These are not suggestions. This is NOT a menu. This is what is allowed as far as preparation of the car. Please do not try to read anything more into these rules. “THIS IS WHAT YOU ARE ALLOWED TO DO TO PREPARE YOUR CAR.”
COMPETITION RULES:
- Drivers must remain in the vehicle with helmet, seatbelt and eye protection on until notified by an official that it is safe to exit the vehicle.
- Driver’s door hits are illegal. If the hit is deemed by the official to be careless or intentional, you will be disqualified. If you use your driver’s door as a defense, we will not enforce the rules. If you use the door defense repeatedly you will be disqualified.
- No hot rodding in the pits. Keep it at an idle.
- Any open door will be cause disqualification, you are allowed one fire, and then second fire will be cause for disqualification. You may return in later rounds.
- Sandbagging is not tolerated and will be strictly enforced. Locking up the brakes prior to a hit for anything other than a driver’s door will be a cause for disqualification. The fans pay to see a show, put one on for them!
- You must make AGGRESSIVE HIT every 60 seconds.
- You will be given ample time for restarts. We do not use the clock exclusively. We try to work with you if you are hung up. Hitters get more time than sandbaggers.
- This is not a team event(except SE); team driving will not be tolerated.
- THERE IS NO ALCOHOL IN THE PITS. This includes pit crews. If you or ANY of your crew is caught with alcohol, you will be disqualified.
- All cars are subject to a post race inspection before any prize money is awarded.
- You must be a driver to protest, the fee is $100 and you must have cash in hand. This protest must take place immediately at the conclusion of the feature event. The protesting driver must have competed in the same class as the driver he is protesting.
- Any questions, CALL FIRST. Don’t assume anything. The Officials decision is final.
CAR BUILDING GUIDELINES:
GENERAL PREPARATION:
- All glass, plastic and pot metal must be removed. Nothing may remain in the bottoms of the trunk or doors.
- All outer hardware must be removed - door handles, mirrors, chrome, moldings, screws, fiberglass, etc. No added weight to any car.
- Rear seats in all cars and all decking in station wagons must be removed.
- Front seats must be securely bolted to the floor, however, these bolts may NOT go thru the frame! You must have a functioning seat belt.
- All flammable materials must be removed from the car other than safety padding and the driver’s seat.
- No fresh sedagon or wedge cars are allowed.
TIRES & BRAKES:
- No tires taller than 30". 4 wheels max per car. No duals.
- No split rims, studded tires or 100% solid wheels, you may use aftermarket center with various bolt patterns, solid centers are fine, but no outer rim re-enforcement. Welds must be approved by judges on rear tires. No outer bead welding or plating. Stay off the area of the rim the tube touches, except to weld your center into the rim.
- Valve stem protectors allowed, wheel weights must be removed. Valve stem protectors may not extend more than 6 inches from valve stem. Not allowed to be a rim protector.
- Bead locks must not extend past stock tire bead area, not to exceed 2 inches wide. Only allowed on inner bead, 1 inch outer lip ring 3/16 thick allowed on outside bead.
- Doubled or foam filled tires allowed.
- All cars must be able to demonstrate the ability to stop at any time. If your brakes do not work, you will not compete.
- You may not change tires after inspection, ride height will be measured with your competition tires only.
BUMPERS, BUMPER BRACKETS:
********Bumper may not exceed 9’’x9’’.************
- BUMPERS are interchangeable for all cars. Includes compact and midsize cars.
-BUMPER-IF you start with a stock/replacement bumper you are allowed to re-enforce inside of bumper. Also, bumpers must start and stop at the end of the frame. Bumper must appear stock from the stands with no spike or protruding items.
-All bumpers must have a factory skin, if your bumper will not fit in a factory skin, it is too big
- You may weld the outer chrome skin to the bumper inner frame
- Bumpers may be cut to keep them out of the tires.
- Bumpers may be flipped (upside down).
MOUNTING:
You may mount your bumper one of two way, not both.
*First way is same as in past:
- You may shorten frame in front of mount but must utilize stock body mount hole.
- You may weld the bumper seams, bumper shocks and the brackets to the frame. You may not weld any further than 4 inches behind the radiator support AT ALL when mounting your front bumper brackets on any car. No bracket or welding may be done further than 4 inches behind the radiator support other than the top frame seam. – NO
EXCEPTIONS!
- If you choose not to use brackets, you may weld your bumper directly to the frame.
- You may not weld the bumper to the body at any time.
- Compression bumper shocks may be drained, slid back into the shock and welded fully.
- All bumper brackets and shock components must be OEM automotive materials.
- You may not reconfigure a bracket or change shock mount location.
- Only shocks allowed inside frames are the original shock and configuration from factory.
- No REAR bumper brackets allowed on front. - You are not allowed to plug weld frame holes on BOP cars.
- Buick, Olds and Pontiacs may fill the large hole in the frame behind the radiator support. This must be a butt fit, 1 pass weld only. NO overlap allowed. - (2-straps 1-Per side )You may weld a 2" x 6" x 1/4" strap from the bumper to the frame to help keep the bumper on the car
This must remain in one piece. It cannot be angled to the corner of the bumper to form a kicker. 6" is the maximum length.
**OR**(pick one not both)
*Second method to mount bumper:
- Remove all brackets and shocks and discard.
- Leave forward radiator support mount in stock location (bolted/floating mounts such as Cadillac may be welded to frame in stock location.
- You may shorten frame in front of mount but must utilize stock body mount hole.
-You may weld core support spacer to bumper
- (2 plates 1 per side) You May weld a 4 inch wide by 3/8 thick plate from bumper to forward most part of top A-arm bracket , any outside frame side(top/bottom/inner/outer) one side only you pick, nothing inside. Do exceed. - You may run 4 loops of #9 wire from the radiator support to the bumper in 2 locations outside of the radiator - You may weld (2)- 2" x 6" x 1/4" strap( per side) from the rear bumper to the frame to help keep the bumper on the car.
- You may also run 2 pieces of all thread 5/8" x no more than 14" thru the body pan to help hold the rear bumper on. 5" washer maximum for this bolt.
- Bumper height must be 16" to 22" measured to the bottom of the frame at the back and front body mount location.
- Nothing may be inside frame, and do not "Great Stuff" between frame and radiator support mount.
Any questions call first
FRAMES:
************ If you weld anything to your frame not in our rules, you will be LOADED!!!!! No exceptions!!!!!**************
- The only frame welding allowed is from the front of the a-arms forward( top side only) do not reweld A-arm brackets to frame, , no more than ONE ½" wide bead .
- The bumper strap to frame welding is covered in the bumper section.
- NO other frame welding is allowed. No plating, stuffing, heat treating or foam filling of frames is allowed. Do NOT paint or undercoat your frame or you will not even be inspected and loaded. We want to see all welds bare, DO NOT PAINT!
- You may weld your motor mounts to the engine cradle, not to the frame rails.
- Rear frame rails may not be shortened. No dowel pinning of the frame is allowed.
- You may notch the frame for minimal pre-bending, but do NOT weld the cut.
- You may run a chain or cable or #9 wire from rear rail to rear rail behind the rear humps. 3/8" chain maximum.
- You may chain or wire your axle to the frame hump. You may NOT use strapping of any kind for this. Wire or chain only. 3/8" chain maximum. Chain must go around frame on full frame cars, do not bolt through hump creating a frame pin, and except uni-body cars may use 1 bolt per side thru the frame for this.
- You may not weld the chain links to create a bar effect.
- There is no frame shaping allowed at all. Do not sharpen the corners of the frame or square them in any way.
-Hump plates may be added to any coil sprung cars, may be ¼ inch thick max, 22" long by 6 inches tall and must be centered and in hump. You may make or buy your own. You may plug weld. These may not be welded on in a way to impede any natural rear-end movement.
BODY BOLTS:
- All body bolts may be replaced with up to 5/8" bolts, maximum 8" length.
- Core support bolts may be 1" diameter. Core support bolts may go thru the hood and count as 2 of your 6 hood bolts.
- You may use pipe up to 2" OD to run the core support all thread thru for spacers. These pipes may be welded to the core support using 3/16" strapping, 2 -4" pcs. Max per pipe.
- Body Washers and body spacers must be free floating Do not weld.
- Do NOT weld the body washers to the floor. Maximum washer size is 5" x 3/16".
- Space must be maintained between the body and the frame; Minimum 3/4".
- Do not bolt the body directly to the frame.
- You may add 2 body mounts in the position of your choice. They must be welded to outside frame only.
- If your station wagon came with the body bolts in the humps, these are your 2 additional mounts. You will NOT be allowed to add more mounts.
- If you decide to bolt your coil springs in place thru the frame and the rear package tray, these will count as your added mounts.
- Wagons are permitted to run 2 of the rear 4 mounts thru the rear pillars. NOT THE ROOF. They must be in the pillar at the tailgate area.
- Chrysler products may run 1" all thread behind the radiator support, but must drill a hole in the frame to bolt the all thread.
- Do not weld anything to the frame, all items must free float.
ENGINES:
- Any engine may be used in any car, but it must be mounted within 5" of the original motor.
- You may chain the motor, Chains may not be attached any higher than cylinder heads, header flanges of engine plates. 1 Chain per side, 3/8 max
- You may weld in additional supports to the engine cradle area, but they may not be attached to the frame rails at any point. Only allowed for holding engine in place.
- front wheel drive cars may use 2x2 tubing for upper engine mounts
- engine protectors allowed must stay tight to engine an can not connect to cage come in contact with cage or window bars..
RADIATORS, RADIATOR SUPPORTS:
- Radiator must be in the stock position in front of the motor.
- Radiator supports must remain in the stock location, DO NOT MOVE.
- OEM style radiators only, no homemade tube construction radiators.
- You may not add cooling capacity. No supplemental cooling devices allowed.
- Expanded metal in front of radiator must be 1/8 inch or less thickness, and only attached in 4 spots (3/8 bolts or 4 - 1 inch welds).
- Core support spacers must stay on top of frame
FUEL DELIVERY SYSTEMS:
- No plastic gas tanks allowed. Marine tank or metal fuel tank only.
- 10+ gallon tank recommended. No coffins, be reasonable! 6x 5/8 inch bolts and 3 inch washer max to mount.
- Gas must be centered in cage for maximum safety and minimal structural enhancement.
-Gas tank may be attached to floor or cage not both
-Gas tank mount may not exceed 32’’wide.. If mounted to the floor (NOTHING MAY KICK UP REAR FIREWALL OR PACKAGE TRAY)
- Original gas tanks must be removed from the car.
- You must have the gas tank securely mounted behind the driver’s seat and it must be covered.
- Fuel lines must run inside the car, not under the car along the frame.
- Fuel lines must be secured to the floor and kept from pinch points
- Automotive pump gas only, NO ALCOHOL.
- Electric fuel pumps are allowed. They must be covered and have an on/off switch near the steering wheel and clearly marked in large letters.
- All lines must be double clamped.
- If your gas tank or way of mounting is not safe you will not run!
BATTERIES:
- A maximum of 2 - 12 volt batteries may be used.
- They must be secured inside the car in front of the passenger seat and covered.
- Rusted out holes in your floor sheet metal may be patched where components will be mounted or for drivers safety, sheet metal only. No other sheet metal patching is allowed unless it is a safety issue. You may not patch clean and solid floors.
- When patching you may NOT weld, you must bolt, self-tap or pop rivet all patches. No components to include: gas pedal, battery boxes, etc. may be welded, you must bolt only. No part or patch may be attached to any vertical sheet metal (firewall), all must be patched or mounted in the horizontal floorboards only. No oversized mount plates or boxes. Do not mount anything within 6 inches of any body bolt. (Exception of center body mount in belly rail)
- Do not mount batteries against firewall or crush boxes, position as far back as possible.
- No floor mount component may structurally enhance the car. 6 bolts max, 5/8 inch hardware, 3 inch washers max.
TRUNK LIDS:
- Trunk lids must remain 50% in the stock location. The trunk lid must remain on hinges.
- You may fasten your trunk lid in ALL OF THE FOLLOWING 3 ways:
1. You may weld 5 on and 5 off 3" x 1/8" strap max.
- AND -
2. You may weld 4 pcs. of 5/8" all thread vertically to the rear frame rails and run them thru the trunk lid. No double nutting. You may use a 5" washer on the trunk lid bolts, plates may not be welded and must be free-floating.
- AND -
3. You may place up to 8 - 3/8" bolts in the drip rail area of the trunk lid OR around inspection holes.
- There must be 12" minimum hole in the trunk lid for inspection purposes.
- Trunk lid seams must be clearly visible and accessible, do not pound over.
- Relocation of the speaker deck is not allowed it must remain in stock/factory location. -No Relocating of any sheet metal components. (DO NOT REMOVE HINGS OR SPEAKER DECK)
-Your trunk lid may be V’ed in the center but must remain 12 inches off the trunk floor over frame or the unibody rails
- No fully wedged cars, rear quarters and tail light valance must remain vertical. (Stop trunk lid at the top of valance) if trunk lid is any lower than the tail light valance you will have to raise it.
HOODS:
- Hoods may be bolted, wired or chained shut ONLY.
- You may use 6 bolts 8" long max top hold the hood, front two may be 1" max, other 5/8” or less.
- The 2 front bolts may go thru the frame, NOT welded to the frame. The other 4 must be sheet metal to sheet metal.
- If you use chain or wire, you may weld up to 5" washers to the hood. If bolting, the 5" washers must be free floating.
-You may install up to 12 - 3/8" bolts or self-tapping screws in hood.
- NO welding of cut outs is allowed.
- You must have a minimum 10" hole in the hood for fire protection.
- Hoods must be open at inspection time.
DOORS:
- Doors may be welded 5” on, 5” off, outside only (this means no straps should be touching another strap) 3" x 1/8" strap maximum.
-You may smash the inner and outer skin together and weld them solid, NO added metal. This includes wagon tailgates
- If you do not weld your doors you must chain or #9 wire them closed in at least 2 spots. You may NOT bolt your doors shut.
- Drivers door may have window netting for driver’s safety. NO other windows may have netting.
- You may weld a plate Maximum 6" x 1/4" across the front doors for protection, not to exceed 6" beyond the front door seams. NO GRADER BLADES. These plates must be in the center of the door, run horizontally.
- Wagon tail gates may be welded:
1. 5 on 5 off, not solid,
**OR**
2. you may bolt the tailgate as in previous years. 4 bolts, 4 nuts, 3/4” max
**OR**
3.you may weld 5” pieces of angle to the tailgate and quarters and use 3/4 “ max bolts pick 1 not all 3.
WINDOWS:
- You must have a piece of rebar/all thread/chain (3/8 max),#9 wire or 3”X 1/4”max flat straps. No angle or tubing running from the roof to the cowl in the windshield area for drivers protection
- 2-1/2 bolts per mounting location , up to 2 pieces max. - This may not be designed as reinforcement to the car and must be space at least 18 inches apart on the bottom, and no cross connections. -No other added metal or mount plates, either weld directly or bolt to sheet metal only. No component may be mounted, welded or bolted within 6 inches of the DP or engine protector.
- You may use 2 loops, 4 strands of #9 wire total in each window opening. This wire may go to or around the frame.
- Station Wagons may not use wire in any window opening beyond the rear passenger door window opening.
- The wire must remain in the field of that window. They may not crisscross the interior of the car.
- No rear window bars allowed.
BODY BOLTS:
- All body bolts may be replaced with up to 5/8" bolts, maximum 8" length.
- Core support bolts may be 1" diameter. Core support bolts may go thru the hood and count as 2 of your 6 hood bolts.
- You may use pipe up to 2" OD to run the core support all thread thru for spacers. These pipes may be welded to the core support using 3/16" strapping, 2 -4" pcs. Max per pipe. cannot be welded to fenders 6"max length
- Body Washers and body spacers must be free floating Do not weld.
- Do NOT weld the body washers to the floor. Maximum washer size is 5" x 3/16".
- Space must be maintained between the body and the frame; Minimum 3/4".
- Do not bolt the body directly to the frame.
- You may add 2 body mounts in the position of your choice. Can be welded to sub frame. They must be welded to outside frame only.
- If you decide to bolt your coil springs in place thru the frame and the rear package tray, these will count as your added mounts.
- Wagons are permitted to run 2 of the rear 4 mounts thru the rear pillars. NOT THE ROOF. They must be in the pillar at the tailgate area.
- .
- Do not weld anything to the frame, all items must free float.
CAGES
- You may use channel or tubing up to 6" for the door bars. Total length is not to exceed 60". This bar may not be more than 18" behind the center post on 4 door cars and 10" behind the door seam on 2 door cars - No exceptions.
- Dash bar and seat bars may not exceed 6" diameter 1 bar max per side. No double bars. Seat bar must be no further than 6" behind the seat. All bars must be straight pieces no contoured pieces.
-If you run a DP do not mount your dash bar closer than 3" inches to the rear most point of the firewall/cowl, YOU WILL NOT RUN. - -Sedans only, are allowed a gas tank protector, 24” X 6” inches, centered in the back seat area. There must be a 1” space between the back bar and all sheet metal, may not be attached to anything other than back seat bar. All interior sheet metal must remain in stock position. Do not pound!
- You may add a diagonal bar behind the driver’s seat and directly below the seat bar running from the seat bar to the floor sheet metal.
- You may add 4 total VERTICAL down bars. They must measure at least 5" length and be attached to the bottom of the side bars or seat bar do not add to the end or the side bars , must maintain a TOTAL of 60 inches or less for side bars., welded to your door bar and to the floor sheet metal. These bars may not attach to or conceal a body mount, or be within 5 inches of any body mount or plate on rear wheel drive.
- No kickers, angled or otherwise. NO cage components may be welded to the frame.
- All horizontal cage components must be at least 5" off the floor of the car, including gas tank protector, side bars measured at door elevation where floor meets rocker,.
- All cage components must be in the interior of the car, not inside the door structure with the exception of the driver’s side. This door bar MAY be inside the door structure to allow more room for driver’s safety.
- All gussets must be on the interior of the 4 point cage.
- You may run a 1/4 solid plate from cage to floor and may extend 1 inch past inner door seam for welding. May be welded solid on all four sides. PASS Front an DRIVERS Front only doors only!!
HALO OR ROLLOVER BARS:
- You must add a halo bar to the cage components listed above. It may not exceed 5" in diameter.
- On a 4-door post car, this bar must attach the side bar in line with seat bar, no exceptions.
- On a 2-door or 4-door non-post car, this bar may be attached to the floor sheet metal.
- Halo bars must be in a direct vertical line with the seat bar.
- Halo bars may NOT be angled toward the rear of the car. They must be vertical.
-You may bolt the halo bar to the roof sheet metal in 2 places.
FRAMES:
************ If you weld anything to your frame not in our rules, you will be LOADED!!!!! No exceptions!!!!!**************
- you will be required to have a 1 inch store bought washer welded to the frame behind the strut and cut a hole for inspection
- The only frame welding allowed is from the front side of ENGINE CROSS MEMBER forward do not reweld brackets to frame, , no more than ONE ½" wide bead .
- The bumper strap to frame welding is covered in the bumper section.
- NO other frame welding is allowed. No plating, stuffing, heat treating or foam filling of frames is allowed. Do NOT paint or undercoat your frame or you will not even be inspected and loaded. We want to see all welds bare, DO NOT PAINT!
- You may weld your motor mounts to the engine cradle, not to the frame rails.
- Rear frame rails may not be shortened. No dowel pinning of the frame is allowed.
- You may notch the frame for minimal pre-bending, but do NOT weld the cut.
- You may run a chain or cable or #9 wire from rear rail to rear rail behind the rear humps. 3/8" chain maximum.
- You may chain or wire your axle to the frame hump. You may NOT use strapping of any kind for this. Wire or chain only. 3/8" chain maximum. Chain must go around frame on full frame cars, do not bolt through hump creating a frame pin, and except uni-body cars may use 1 bolt per side thru the frame for this.
- You may not weld the chain links to create a bar effect.
- There is no frame shaping allowed at all. Do not sharpen the corners of the frame or square them in any way.
-Hump plates may be added to any coil sprung cars, may be ¼ inch thick max, 22" long by 6 inches tall and must be centered and in hump. You may make or buy your own. You may plug weld. These may not be welded on in a way to impede any natural rear-end movement.
BUMPERS, BUMPER BRACKETS:
********Bumper may not exceed 9’’x9’’.********
- Bumpers are interchangeable for all cars.
- IF you start with a stock/replacement bumper you are allowed to re-enforce inside of bumper. Also, bumpers must start and stop at the end of the frame. Bumper must appear stock from the stands with no spike or protruding items.
-All bumpers must have a factory skin, if your bumper will not fit in a factory skin, it is too big
- You may weld the outer chrome skin to the bumper inner frame
- Bumpers may be cut to keep them out of the tires.
- Bumpers may be flipped (upside down).
- You may shorten frame in front of mount but must utilize stock body mount hole.
-You may weld core support spacer to bumper
- (2 plates 1 per side) You May weld a 4 inch wide by 3/8 thick plate from bumper to forward most part of top A-arm bracket , any outside frame side(top/bottom/inner/outer) out side of frame only. one side only you pick, . Do exceed. - You may run 4 loops of #9 wire from the radiator support to the bumper in 2 locations outside of the radiator - You may weld (2)- 2" x 6" x 1/4" strap( per side) from the rear bumper to the frame to help keep the bumper on the car.
- You may also run 2 pieces of all thread 5/8" x no more than 14" thru the body pan to help hold the rear bumper on. 5" washer maximum for this bolt.
- Bumper height must be 16" to 22" measured to the bottom of the frame at the back and front body mount location.
- my use 6" piece of square or round tubing as a bumper shock for the rear bumper
SUSPENSION, STEERING:
- NO SUSPENSION PART MAY REINFORCE FRAME
- any after-mark or OEM automotive spindle accepted.
- No coil to leaf conversions in compact class, homemade hump plates only (not supplied)
- Leaf springs must be in the factory position.
-Aftermarket trailing arms may be used but must contain a rubber bushing.
- Rear end braces are allowed, but they may serve no purpose other than to strengthen the rear end housing. They may not extend from the rear end further than 6” and may not be higher than the top of the axle tube.
- You may change coil springs
- Suspension must be factory car suspension unless stated otherwise.
- You may NOT remove the shocks and put pipe or all thread in their place.
- You may weld or bolt or chain down your A-arms, pick one and only one.
- All chains, bolts or welds must be in the middle of the A-arm.
- you may use a piece of pipe to hold up struts, do not cover or connect to gas filled shock area, just the top. The rest of the
strut is to remain in stock configuration and location.
- You may reinforce your tie rods, but you must use the OEM tie rod ends.
- Pipe Tie Rods are allowed but you must use the stock ends, no aftermarket hiems.
- Steering wheel to Steering gearbox may be modified.
- Aftermarket steering columns allowed.
- Shock absorbers must be factory replacement for that year, make and model of car.
- No truck shocks, no exotic shocks, no mystery shocks, no oversized shocks.
- Air shock lines must be cut.
TIRES & BRAKES:
- No tires taller than 30". 4 wheels max per car. No duals.
- No split rims, studded tires, you may use aftermarket center with various bolt patterns, solid centers are fine, but no outer rim re-enforcement. Welds must be approved by judges on rear tires. No outer bead welding or plating. Stay off the area of the rim the tube touches, except to weld your center into the rim.
- Valve stem protectors allowed, wheel weights must be removed. Valve stem protectors may not extend more than 6 inches from valve stem. Not allowed to be a rim protector.
- Bead locks must not extend past stock tire bead area, not to exceed 2 inches wide. Only allowed on inner bead, nothing allowed on outside bead.
- Doubled or foam filled tires allowed.
- All cars must be able to demonstrate the ability to stop at any time. If your brakes do not work, you will not compete.
- You may not change tires after inspection, ride height will be measured with
BATTERIES:
- A maximum of 2 - 12 volt batteries may be used.
- They must be secured inside the car in front of the passenger seat and covered.
- Rusted out holes in your floor sheet metal may be patched where components will be mounted or for drivers safety, sheet metal only. No other sheet metal patching is allowed unless it is a safety issue. You may not patch clean and solid floors.
- When patching you may NOT weld, you must bolt, self-tap or pop rivet all patches. No components to include: gas pedal, battery boxes, etc. may be welded, you must bolt only. No part or patch may be attached to any vertical sheet metal (firewall), all must be patched or mounted in the horizontal floorboards only. No oversized mount plates or boxes. Do not mount anything within 6 inches of any body bolt. (Exception of center body mount in belly rail)
- Do not mount batteries against firewall or crush boxes, position as far back as possible.
- No floor mount component may structurally enhance the car. 6 bolts max, 5/8 inch hardware, 3 inch washers max.
FUEL DELIVERY SYSTEMS:
- No plastic gas tanks allowed. Marine tank or metal fuel tank only.
- 10+ gallon tank recommended. No coffins, be reasonable! 6x 5/8 inch bolts and 3 inch washer max to mount.
- Gas must be centered in cage for maximum safety and minimal structural enhancement.
-Gas tank may be attached to floor or cage not both
-Gas tank mount may not exceed 32’’wide.. If mounted to the floor (NOTHING MAY KICK UP REAR FIREWALL OR PACKAGE TRAY)
- Original gas tanks must be removed from the car.
- You must have the gas tank securely mounted behind the driver’s seat and it must be covered.
- Fuel lines must run inside the car, not under the car along the frame.
- Fuel lines must be secured to the floor and kept from pinch points
- Automotive pump gas only, NO ALCOHOL.
- Electric fuel pumps are allowed. They must be covered and have an on/off switch near the steering wheel and clearly marked in large letters.
- All lines must be double clamped.
- If your gas tank or way of mounting is not safe you will not run!
ENGINES:
- Any engine may be used in any car, but it must be mounted within 5" of the original motor.
- You may chain the motor, Chains may not be attached any higher than cylinder heads, header flanges of engine plates. 1 Chain per side, 3/8 max
- You may weld in additional supports to the engine cradle area top side only, but they may not be attached to the frame rails at any point. Only allowed for holding engine in place.Do not cover any seams with weld or plate.
- All hoses must be covered in driver’s compartment for driver safety
- No engine oil coolers are allowed.
- You must have an air cleaner over the carburetor at all times.
- No starting fluid is allowed.
- Mopar’s or K member cars are allowed to secure K member in the following ways:
->Remove pucks and bolt tight to frame, stock size bolts only.
->Leave pucks in between and weld 4 - 3 inch welds, total (not per side) of 12 inches only.
DISTRIBUTOR PROTECTORS/CRADLES:
- If you run a DP do not mount your dash bar closer than 5 inches to the rear most point of the firewall/cowl, YOU WILL NOT RUN. An will not be able to fix at the track
- Distributor protectors allowed, must be attached to engine or transmission only, back side that contacts the firewall must be no wider than 12 inches, must not contact cage before, during or after the event. It may not be welded, bolted or connected to body, hood or frame. Forward supports must be inside normally positioned headers and not extend past the water pump mount bolts.
- Aftermarket Distributor protectors, cradles and pulley protectors are allowed.
- You may beat flat the engine side of the firewall only, do not weld or bolt firewall. Do not re-enforce the firewall/cowl. Do not crease, paint, bolt, weld on, weld to or modify the firewall/cowl in any way.
- Mid plates and front plates must not extend further that 2.5 inch past engine or transmission. Any part of protector contacting or will contact dash must be less than 12 inches wide.
- Lower cradles must mount similar to a factory mount, any bars connecting mid plate to cradle must be below the cylinder heads.
- Pulley protectors must not extend more than 8 inches.
- Any cable routing tubes must maintain the 5 inch gap to dash bar.
- Keep protector within reason! Vince has final say!
TRANSMISSIONS:
- Transmissions must be of passenger car origin, transmission coolers may be used, but they must be secured in such a way to prevent injury.
- Metal or braided lines must be used. No fuel or low-pressure lines may be used.
- Coolers must be secured in a container in the passenger compartment of the car.
-Transmission protectors are allowed with the following criteria:
- They may not rise more than 1 inch above the highest point of the bell housing, including the attachment point
- They may not attach or brace to the cross member, frame, or any part of the cage components
- They may be fabricated of tubing or round stock of no greater OD than 3/4
- If flat material is used, it can be no thicker than 3/8. These components may not be used in tandem to create a material thicker than either of these measurements.
- Trans blanket is recommended.
- OEM Tran cross member or 2"x2" OD 1/4” max replacement. Must be mounted with at least a 1/4 space from all trans protector components.
- Cross member may not exceed factory curves(less than 6 inch bow)
- You may weld or bolt a 3’’x 3’’ inch angle iron to inside frame, 5 inches max to facilitate the mounting of cross member.
- Center mount may not exceed a normal Trans mount bolt area 6 inch max, no additional bracing allowed.
SKID PLATES:
- Skid plates are allowed. They may be one piece from engine to transmission.
- They may not extend past oil pan or transmission pan. Don’t connect to transmission cross member. Must be 1 inch space.
- NO bolting or welding the skid plate to the frame.
REAR ENDS:
**You may run 10 lug or floater rear ends. No part of rear end may strengthen the car’s frame or body in any way.
- You may use any type of rear end (Ford / Mopar / GM / Hybrid).
- You may tilt the rear end by lengthening or shortening the trailing arms. OEM Trailing arms must be of passenger car origin and may be reinforced.
Aftermarket trailing arms may be used but must contain a rubber bushing.
- Rear end braces are allowed, but they may serve no purpose other than to strengthen the rear end housing. They may not extend from the rear end further than 6” and may not be higher than the top of the axle tube.
HOODS:
- Hoods may be bolted, wired or chained shut ONLY.
- You may use 6 bolts top hold the hood, front two may be 1" max, other 5/8” or less.
- The 2 front bolts may go thru the frame, NOT welded to the frame. The other 4 must be sheet metal to sheet metal.
- If you use chain or wire, you may weld up to 5" washers to the hood. If bolting, the 5" washers must be free floating.
-You may install up to 12 - 3/8" bolts or self-tapping screws in hood.
- NO welding of cut outs is allowed.
- You must have a minimum 10" hole in the hood for fire protection.
- Hoods must be open at inspection time.
DOORS:
- Doors may be welded 5” on, 5” off, outside only (this means no straps should be touching another strap) 3" x 1/8" strap maximum.
-You may smash the inner and outer skin together and weld them solid, NO added metal. This includes wagon tailgates
- If you do not weld your doors you must chain or #9 wire them closed in at least 2 spots. You may NOT bolt your doors shut.
- Drivers door may have window netting for driver’s safety. NO other windows may have netting.
- You may weld a plate Maximum 6" x 1/4" across the front doors for protection, not to exceed 6" beyond the front door seams. NO GRADER BLADES. These plates must be in the center of the door, run horizontally.
- Wagon tail gates may be welded:
1. 5 on 5 off, not solid,
**OR**
2. you may bolt the tailgate as in previous years. 4 bolts, 4 nuts, 3/4” max
**OR**
3.you may weld 5” pieces of angle to the tailgate and quarters and use 3/4 “ max bolts pick 1 not all 3.
WINDOWS:
- You must have a piece of rebar/all thread/chain (3/8 max),#9 wire or 3”X 1/4”max flat straps. No angle or tubing running from the roof to the cowl in the windshield area for drivers protection - 2-1/2 bolts per mounting location , up to 2 pieces max. - This may not be designed as reinforcement to the car and must be space at least 18 inches apart on the bottom, and no cross connections. -No other added metal or mount plates, either weld directly or bolt to sheet metal only. No component may be mounted, welded or bolted within 6 inches of the DP.
- You may use 2 loops, 4 strands of #9 wire total in each window opening. This wire may go to or around the frame.
- Station Wagons may not use wire in any window opening beyond the rear passenger door window opening.
- The wire must remain in the field of that window. They may not crisscross the interior of the car.
- No rear window bars allowed.
Body:
- Body creasing, enhancing of existing body lines and addition of body lines is allowed to the sides of the car only. - Do not fold the metal over to create a doubled effect; any spot with 4 layers of sheet metal will be torched out completely. Trunk lid seams must be clearly visible and accessible.
- No doubling of body panels allowed, no added metal allowed
- Quarter panels must remain vertical. Tail light valances must remain vertical.
- NO SEAM WELDING other than the exterior driver’s doors.
- Core support seam welding is NOT allowed.
- Washers for #9 Wire may be welded to the roof sheet metal. They may be a maximum of 1 ½" diameter. **No washers may be welded for future wire installation.
- Holes may be cut in the floor & firewall to accommodate the shifter, fuel lines, and transmission lines.
- You may cut a hole in the firewall to accommodate the engine, within reason must have fire wall covered. With rubber or nonflammable material.
- You may have up to 5 - 3/8" bolts in each wheel opening. They may not be higher than 5" above the stock lip location of the wheel opening.
CAGES & DOOR BARS:
- You may use channel or tubing up to 6" for the door bars. Total length is not to exceed 60". This bar may not be more than 18" behind the center post on 4 door cars and 10" behind the door seam on 2 door cars - No exceptions.
- Dash bar and seat bars may not exceed 6" diameter 1 bar max per side. No double bars. Seat bar must be no further than 6" behind the seat. All bars must be straight pieces no contoured pieces.
-If you run a DP do not mount your dash bar closer than 5 inches to the rear most point of the firewall/cowl, YOU WILL NOT RUN. - -Sedans only, are allowed a gas tank protector, 24” X 6” inches, centered in the back seat area. There must be a 1” space between the back bar and all sheet metal, may not be attached to anything other than back seat bar. All interior sheet metal must remain in stock position. Do not pound!
- You may add a diagonal bar behind the driver’s seat and directly below the seat bar running from the seat bar to the floor sheet metal.
- You may add 4 total VERTICAL down bars. They must measure at least 8 in length and be attached to the bottom of the side bars or seat bar do not add to the end or the side bars , must maintain a TOTAL of 60 inches or less for side bars., welded to your door bar and to the floor sheet metal. These bars may not attach to or conceal a body mount, or be within 5 inches of any body mount or plate.
- No kickers, angled or otherwise. NO cage components may be welded to the frame.
- All horizontal cage components must be at least 8" off the floor of the car, including gas tank protector, side bars measured at the body bolt elevation, dash bar measured at trans tunnel.
- All cage components must be in the interior of the car, not inside the door structure with the exception of the driver’s side. This door bar MAY be inside the door structure to allow more room for driver’s safety.
- All gussets must be on the interior of the 4 point cage.
- You may run a 1/4 solid plate from cage to floor and may extend 1 inch past inner door seam for welding. May be welded solid on all four sides. PASS Front an DRIVERS Front only doors only!!
HALO OR ROLLOVER BARS:
- You must add a halo bar to the cage components listed above. It may not exceed 5" in diameter.
- On a 4-door post car, this bar must attach the side bar in line with seat bar, no exceptions.
- On a 2-door or 4-door non-post car, this bar may be attached to the floor sheet metal.
- Halo bars must be in a direct vertical line with the seat bar.
- Halo bars may NOT be angled toward the rear of the car. They must be vertical.
-You may bolt the halo bar to the roof sheet metal in 2 places.
TRUNK LIDS:
- Trunk lids must remain 50% in the stock location. The trunk lid must remain on hinges.
- You may fasten your trunk lid in ALL OF THE FOLLOWING 3 ways:
1. You may weld 5 on and 5 off 3" x 1/8" strap max.
- AND -
2. You may weld 4 pcs. of 5/8" all thread vertically to the rear frame rails and run them thru the trunk lid. No double nutting. You may use a 5" washer on the trunk lid bolts, plates may not be welded and must be free-floating.
- AND -
3. You may place up to 8 - 3/8" bolts in the drip rail area of the trunk lid OR around inspection holes.
- There must be 12" minimum hole in the trunk lid for inspection purposes.
- Trunk lid seams must be clearly visible and accessible, do not pound over.
- Relocation of the speaker deck is not allowed it must remain in stock/factory location. -No Relocating of any sheet metal components. (DO NOT REMOVE HINGS OR SPEAKER DECK)
-Your trunk lid may be V’ed in the center but must remain 12 inches off trunk floor at body mount location; speaker deck can be 10 inches at body mount location will be measured at speaker holes.
- No fully wedged cars, rear quarters and tail light valance must remain vertical. (Stop trunk lid at the top of valance) if trunk lid is any lower than the tail light valance you will have to raise it.
*80’s and newer
- You may pitch, tilt or tip 80’s and newer style cars in 1 of the 3 following ways only:
1. You may cold pitch, no added metal
2. You may cut all four flaps and pull the front end down moving the flap ½ inch and re-weld. Do not re-weld any other crush box seams, no added metal.
3. You may pitch at the transmission cross member, since you are already allowed to weld a 5 inch piece of angle there to mount your cross member.
*98 and newer
- Watts-link conversion for Fords. You may convert a Watts-Link to a standard 4 link system in the following way: Use the upper and lower trailing arm brackets off an older Ford. After market brackets are allowed, but no thicker than ¼ inch and may be attached with max of (5)-1/2 and 2-3/4 – bolts each side. No positioning of brackets to strengthen the front down legs of the rear hump, must be mount in the stock location.
- Any watts link brackets not utilized may not be altered to reinforce frame.
*03s and newer
- All material used must not exceed 1/4 inch thick, max thickness is 1/2" inch only were two pieces meet.
- You must provide a one inch inspection hole in spring bucket, you may weld 1 inch washer around it.
- Must run the original aluminum cradle and stock lower A-arm. Aluminum cradle must be visible, do not wrap entire cradle, bottom straps limited to 8 inches flat straps.
- Upper A arm, motor mounts and spring bucket must mount off the 2 existing cradle bolts. No frame welding allowed for these components.
- No mounting plate or component may extend more than 2 inch in front of or behind the cradle bolts, measured from middle of of the bolt, this rule will be strictly enforced.
-You may use any automotive or fabricated spring bucket but it must not strengthen the frame in any way, cannot not be larger than necessary to hold coil spring. Again must be mounted off 2 existing cradle bolts. DO NOT weld to frame in any way.
- No pinning of frame. YOU WILL BE LOADED NO CHANCE TO FIX!!!!
- To mount steering box, you may weld a tube to the top and bottom of frame. Do not weld excessively. Max tube size is 1" OD, 1/2" bolts max. Gear box adapter may not exceed gear box footprint. No wrapping.
- Do not weld any seams behind the A-arm, even if the factory skip welded the seam, do not weld!
- If you choose to pitch, this must be done at the Trans cross member only.
- You may cut the excess frame off the front rails but you may not move the front body mount. All body mounts must remain in stock location.
SUSPENSION, SPRINGS:
- NO SUSPENSION PART MAY REINFORCE FRAME
- any after-mark or OEM automotive spindle accepted.
- No coil to leaf conversions in compact class, homemade hump plates only (not supplied)
- Leaf springs must be in the factory position.
- You may change coil springs
- Suspension must be factory car suspension unless stated otherwise.
- You may NOT remove the shocks and put pipe or all thread in their place.
- You may weld or bolt or chain down your A-arms, pick one and only one.
- All chains, bolts or welds must be in the middle of the A-arm.
- If you run 80s Ford or GM A-arms on 98-02 Ford you may replace the factory center bar to the bolt heads only. No welding on frame.
1. You are allowed 2- 2” x 3’’ max strap welded per A-Arm, nothing may contact the frame rail, and all attachments must be made to spring bucket only. 1’’ON ARM 1’’ON SPRING BUCKET
**OR**
2. One chain, welded to spring bucket only.
**OR**
3. One bolt per side welded to spring bucket only, may hold upper or lower A-arm, but not both.
- No spring spacers may be used
- You may not plate, reconfigure or re-enforce A-arms
- You may reinforce your tie rods, but you must use the OEM tie rod ends.
- Pipe Tie Rods are allowed but you must use the stock ends, no aftermarket hiems.
- Steering wheel to Steering gearbox may be modified.
- Aftermarket steering columns allowed.
- Shock absorbers must be factory replacement for that year, make and model of car.
- No truck shocks, no exotic shocks, no mystery shocks, no oversized shocks.
- Air shock lines must be cut.
LEAF SPRINGS:
- 9 leaf maximum, 5/16 " max thickness, 2 ½" wide maximum.
- 58" minimum, 60" maximum spring length.
- Stagger - 3" long side (rear of axle), 2" short side (front of axle).
- 5 clamps per spring, 2 in front of the axle, 3 behind the axle.
- Clamp material 1/4" thick, 2" wide, 2 – 3/8" bolts per clamp.
- U-bolts - 1/2" maximum
- No homemade mounting plates or oversized U-bolts will be allowed.
- No welding on the spring pack
- No flat sprung cars - leaf pack must have a minimum of 2" of arch.
- No duct taping of springs prior to inspection.
- Postal Mopar brackets are excepted (only 4- 1/2 bolts) when mounting spring to rear-end stay tight to rear-end like factory
Coil Sprung cars are allowed the following:
Leaf Convert(not allowed on compacts)(no hump plates allowed):
-Any rear end - 10 lugs are ok
- 9 leaf maximum, 5/16 " max thickness, 2 ½" wide maximum.
- 54" minimum, 60" maximum spring length.
- Stagger - 3" long side (rear of axle), 2" short side (front of axle).
- 5 clamps per spring, 2 in front of the axle, 3 behind the axle.
- Clamp material 1/4" thick, 2" wide, 2 – 3/8" bolts per clamp.
- U-bolts - 1/2" maximum
- No homemade mounting plates or oversized U-bolts will be allowed.
- No welding on the spring pack
- No flat sprung cars - leaf pack must have a minimum of 2" of arch.
- No duct taping of springs prior to inspection.
- Rear mount - 6X6X1/4" shackle, has to be a working shackle in rear.
-Front eyelet mount, pick ONE:
1. In trailing arm bracket, w/3x3x1/4" gusset
2. In the frame with a bolt thru - no added metal
3. Box welded to the frame 4X6X1/4" maximum, must mounted at lower control arm bolt.
-No all-thread struts, must have shock absorbers.
-NO ADDED METAL OTHER THAN WHAT IS SPECIFIED ABOVE. NO EXCEPTIONS.
**INSPECTION PROCEDURES:
- Official’s decisions are final.
- You will be given one (1) opportunity to correct items on your car.
- Each car gets a maximum of 2 times thru inspection. (0ne re inspect)
- Cars will be impounded after inspection and staged in a secure location.
- You must be completely ready to bolt the hood down during inspection and then put the car in the staging area.
- No further work will be allowed and cars will not be allowed to return to their trailers.
- Do not come to the inspection line if you are not done preparing your car.
- Any added or welded metal plate/rod or material not specifically covered in the rules, will be removed completely as well as the surrounding metal. Don’t do it or your car will be weakened! Call ahead!
PRE-FEATURE/PRE-CONSOLATION CAR PREPARATION:
- You may use unlimited wire for consi or feature.
- Leaf spring cars may NOT replace leaf springs prior to either the consi or the feature.
- You may wire them or tape leaf springs, but may not replace them.
- No replacing of sheet metal components prior to the consi or the feature.
- After the heats, consi cars will be re inspected. Feature cars will be impounded.
- You may sedagon your vehicle after your heat, wire only, visibility for inspection must be maintained.
- Feature cars must be re inspected by 1pm and then impounded again. No further repairs will be allowed after this point.
COMPACT ONLY
