Post by cthompson11 on Feb 26, 2017 9:55:00 GMT -5
Clinton County Demolition 4-H Fair Derby
Frankfort, Indiana 46041
Contact Chase Thompson for questions or info
765-242-4358
July 15, 2017 @ 6:00pm
Inspection starts @ 2:00pm
Cars must be inspected 1 hour before derby
ENTRY:
$40.00 CAR ENTRY
$20.00 PIT PASS
$7.00 GRANDSTANDS
KIDS FIVE AND UNDER FREE.
GUARANTEED PAYOUTS
PAYOUT FOR
PRO-MODS:
1ST: 1700
2ND 750
3RD: 300
4TH: 100
5TH: 50
LIMITED WELD:
1ST: 1700
2ND 750
3RD: 300
4TH: 100
5TH: 50
MINI CARS:
1ST: 1000
2ND: 500
3RD: 150
WIRE CLASS
PAYOUTS ARE TBD
(If we can get sponsor money we will have guaranteed payout, if not it will be 100% payback.)
Trial run for this class
Trophies for 1st, 2nd, 3rd, and mad dog trophy for each class
RULES:
Imperials are allowed in the Pro-mod Class Only. Any year sedan or station wagon allowed in stock class. Also you may run a convertible as long as a metal car roof has been installed without reinforcing the body of the car in any class.
Drivers: All drivers will fill out an entry form and sign insurance form to participate.
Men and Women will run in same class. NO Powder Puff
You must be 18 years old to compete with a valid driver’s license or valid ISSUED I.D. card from the state of your residence. (Do not forget your I.D. or you will not run)
Drivers must furnish his or her vehicle or have one sponsored to them.
Drivers must wear a helmet, eye protection, long pants, and shoes to be able to participate.
Cars MUST have working seatbelt and brakes. MANDATORY!
You must pass inspection within 3 times or you will not be allowed to run.
Driver/ Pit Crew members must NOT be under the influence of any alcohol. Alcohol and or illegal drugs will not permitted.
Entry fee is non-refundable if your car does not pass inspection.
All drivers must attend drivers meeting before show starts.
Heats will be assigned by staff and will be a course of elimination heats to advance to the feature.
THE DRIVER QUALIFIES FOR THE FEATURE NOT THE CAR, what this means is: if you destroy your car in the heat and you qualify for the feature "you may use another registered car that has RUN IN A HEAT OR CONSI. HEAD OFFICIAL MUST BE NOTIFIED TO MAKE CHANGES IN THE ROSTER. This person’s name is Chase Thompson
Do not get out of your vehicle unless you are told to do so by an official while you are competing in the arena area. Drivers must remain with their vehicles until they are removed from the arena.
NO PIT CREWS ALLOWED ON THE TRACK AT ANYTIME, FAMILY MEMBERS, or FRIENDS.
This will result in disqualification and forfeit of any prize money.
All cars will have a working seat belt for the driver’s seat and it will be on during the event. Car must also show the ability to stop.
NO DRIVERS DOOR HITS:
However, we all know that accidents do happen. If it looks intentional you will get disqualified. If it is questionable we may stop the heat or feature and it will be up to the driver who received the hit in the door if the violator is disqualified. SO PLEASE TELL ALL FAMILY MEMBERS AND FRIENDS SO THERE IS NO CONFUSION.
TEAM DRIVING:
It is allowed to a certain extent. YOU MUST MAKE COMPETITIVE CONTACT WITH ALL VEHICLES THAT ARE COMPETING IN THE ARENA. Do not make the officials dictate the outcome!!
Sandbagging:
It is up to the drivers that are competing to take out the other cars that are grocery shopping, not the officials. Remember 1 minute combat rule. 1 minute re-starts. "Some drivers may get more time for a re-start if they are putting on a good show"
Officials will paint an X on the sandbaggers so the rest of the field is aware of what is going on. It is up to you as a driver to take them out. The officials reserve the right and will disqualify a sandbagger if he does not get with the program.
FIRES:
Depending on what type of fire it is, you will be out.
ROLLOVERS: We hope this does not occur and at the first sign of a car rolling over YOU NEED TO GET OUT OF THE GAS & STOP.
Mandatory:
1. All DERBY CARS MUST HAVE NUMBERS ON BOTH DRIVER AND PASSENGER DOORS. Roof sign is optional and cannot reinforce the car.
2. Cars will operate in a safe manner during the heat and feature events. If a derby car appears to be at risk of injury to the driver, spectators, or officials you may be disqualified. (example: doors torn off exposing driver)
3. INSPECTION will occur before your car runs in its assigned heat. It will be subject to re-inspection at any time until feature is over. Once the winner has been declared it is over with no re-inspection.
4. NO PLASTIC GAS TANKS
OFFICIALS DECISIONS ARE FINAL:
NO UNSPORTSMAN LIKE CONDUCT WILL BE TOLORATED. Arrest or Removal from the fairground property will occur.
PRO-MODS :
1. All glass, lights, interior, ect. Must be removed before the car arrives at on the property and before inspection.
2. Batteries must be secured in the front passenger floor area with a cover. Gas tanks will be removed from all vehicles and a smaller gas tank can be re-located in the back seat floor area. Boat tank or fuel cell recommended.
3. Aftermarket steering columns are allowed
4. Transmission coolers are allowed in the driver/passenger area. Metal or high pressure lines only!
5. IN STATION WAGONS ALL REAR SEATS AND DECK LIDS MUST BE REMOVED BEFORE ARRIVAL TO GROUNDS.
6. You may swap any type of engine.
7. Engine mounts may be reinforced or homemade engine mounts. They cannot reinforce the frame in any way. Do not weld engine chains to the frame (must be bolted) unless it is on the engine cradle. Any skid plates must be welded to the pans or be part of your engine cradle / transmission protector. These CANNOT be connected to the frame in any way.
8. Engine cradles and transmission protectors are allowed but CANNOT reinforce frame.
9. You may use 2x2 square tubing for your crossmember.
BUMPERS:
1. You may use any type of car bumper, and it may be stuff and welded. You may also use homemade bumpers. Homemade bumpers must closely resemble OEM styles. NO ICE PICKS OR EXTREME POINTS, you will not run.
2. Rear bumpers CANNOT be loaded or homemade.
3. Bumper brackets can be welded to the frame. DO NOT PUT REAR BUMPER BRACKETS ON THE FRONT.
4. Bumpers can be held on by #9 wire in (4) spots to sheet metal.
5. You may have homemade bumper shocks (i.e. 2x2 tubing) but they may not extend past the front most part of the a-arms. If you decide not to use bumper shocks you may weld a 3/8 (max thickness) plate to the side of the frame. Plate may run from back of the bumper to the front most part of the a-arms. YOU MAY NOT USE BOTH.
5a. PLATES CANNOT FOLDED TO COVER THE TOP OR BOTTOM OF THE FRAME. ONE SIDE OF THE FRAME ONLY. Plate on the side of frame must also be 1 continuous piece.
6. Rear bumper height is NOT to be less 16 Inches from the ground to the bottom of the bumper.
SUSPENSIONS:
1. Any type rear end allowed.
2. NO braces from rear end to body or frame / factory mounting only. Chains on rear end are fine.
3. You may weld a 2x2 INCH STRAP on BOTH SIDES of the A-FRAME or have a bolt welded to the frame to bolt A-frame solid for height due to bad coil springs.
4. re-enforced or homemade tie rods are allowed.
5. all-thread is allowed for rear shocks.
6. YOU WILL BE ALLOWED TO LEAF SPRING A COIL SPRING CAR.
7. If you have a leaf spring vehicle no more than 9 springs and they must have stagger. (you may have a spring the same size as the main leaf).
7a. NO WELDING ON OR PLUG WELDED LEAF SPRINGS! 6 clamps per side.
7b. No cold rolled steel for springs. 6 clamps per side.
8. Control arms can be reinforced or make your own.
9. DO NOT REMOVE AND REWELD 97 AND NEWER LOWER CONTROL ARM ASSEMBLY MUST BE STOCK LOCATION ON FRAME.
Tires:
1. No tires bigger than a 16, any ply rating does not have to be DOT.
2. Tires inside of a tire OK.
3. Any split rims must be welded.
4. Bead locks ok. Valve stem protectors are ok.
5. No studded tires.
CAR FRAMES:
1. You may weld the top seam only. You may also weld body seams, DO NOT WELD BODIES TO THE FRAME.
2. 22 inch arch plates on rear (prefer contoured to the frame)
3. Split rail rear frames may be boxed in with the same thickness of metal (no bigger than 1/4 inch).)
4. ON A PRE-RAN CAR you can have (6) 4inch by 6inch plates anywhere on the frame as long as it is damaged. DO NOT RUN 4x6 PLATES TOGETHER space 2 inches. DO NOT put plates on top of any other plates.
4a. A FRESH CAR can have (2) 4inch by 6inch plates anywhere on the frame. THICKNESS ON ALL PLATES 1/4 (quarter inch). DO NOT PUT THESE PLATES ON TOP OF OR CONNECTED TO ANY OTHER PLATE, INCLUDING 3/8 PLATE RUNNING FROM BUMPER TO A-ARMS.
4b. Cars must have 2” gap between plates.
5. No additional welding on FORD CRUSH BOXES other than to tilt. This does not count as a top seam weld.
6. You may tilt rear frames on cars.
7. Frames will be GM Corporation to GM Corp., Ford Corp. to Ford Corp., Chrysler Corp. to Chrysler Corp. and car bodies will match the same manufacture as well. In other words do not put a Chevy clip in your Ford or a whole frame swap into another car manufacture. NO HYBRIDS = Clipping cars no newer or older frame swaps 60's clip in you 90's car. It must be same year frame swap. You may use an Imperial sub frame in non imperial sub frame cars (i.e. New Yorkers, Newports...)
8. You may change out the factory Ford Aluminum cradle with either a factory ford steel cradle, or a bolt aftermarket bolt in cradle.
9. On 1978 and older sedans only, you may extend your arch plate to the first body mount on the outside of the frame only and not go past the hole in the frame. 1980 and newer GM & Chrysler sedans can have this too.
10. Do not re-paint your frame or undercoat it. It will make for a long day for YOU to clean it off for the officials to inspect your car. All mud will be removed prior to inspection of car.
NO SUB FRAME IMPERIAL TO FULL FRAME IMPERIALS TO FULL FRAME IMPERIAL CONVERSIONS.
BODIES:
1. Body bolts no bigger than 1”. Do not go all the way through the frame (stock type mounting)
CAN BE MOUNTED SOLID W/no rubber (body & frame)
1a. Do not bolt or weld any part of car body, fenders or core support to the frame.
2. You are allowed a 3 inch washer to cover 1/4 inch thickness over body mount frame holes. Do not slide bodies on derby cars. They must remain in the stock position.
3. Do not double any metal on car bodies. If you have rusted out body mounts then use the same thickness to fix. Do not get carried away or you will cut it.
4. You may have bolts over your wheel wells for the quarters, no extra bracing just bolts and washers.
5. Core support and all thread. You may weld the core support to the fenders (do not add anything) "no plates". On the fords "guys are sticking pipe or square tubing to jack up the core support" this is ok and you can weld the pipe or square down to the frame so it is not sloppy. (Nothing bigger than 2 inches on pipe or square).
CAGES:
1. No pipe or square tubing bigger than 4 inch. Can be mounted to the frame and/or body.
2. No more than 8 legs including gas tank protector legs.
3. Legs cannot go inside the frame.
4. Legs must be straight down with no angle & in the driver’s compartment only.
5. Rear bar behind seat must accompany the down leg.
6. Overhead bar cannot be angled and will be near the driver’s helmet area.
7. Do not weld your dash bar to the cowl dash area. Dash Bar must be over the stock location of where the
steering column mount was. Do not double this area.
8. GAS TANK PROTECTORS MUST BE INSIDE THE FRAME RAILS ON ALL CARS OR 4 INCHES AWAY FROM SHEET METAL IF THEY ARE OVER THE RAILS.
9. DO NOT PUT PIPES OR ANYTHING ELSE INSIDE THE FRAME. If anything extra is found you will not be allowed to run period and will forfeit entry and or prize money!
10. Window bar for gas tank protector: May be connected to top of the car and no further than two inches onto the trunk.
11. We will give a little on this because of driver size, do not cover the entire driver / passenger compartment with a cage. 6 inches past the door post is the golden rule.
12. You may run two kickers behind the A-frames on a GM, FORD, or CHRYSLER or any other car manufacture not listed. NO KICKERS TO THE REAR FRAME. You may run 2 kickers from the spreader bar behind the driver seat to the rear crush box area. Do not go farther back then the sheet metal before the speaker deck area.
DOORS:
1. Can be welded solid with 2 wide inch strap.
2. Driver door plates are allowed, but must be on the driver door only.
TRUNKS:
1. May be chained, #9 wired, welded, or all thread.
2. You can use all thread for your body mounts in the trunk (2 only) "bolts must be inside the frame".
3. TRUNK LID MUST BE 12 INCHES FROM THE FLOOR ALL THE WAY ACROSS. WE MUST BE ABLE SEE INSIDE TRUNKS. ( INSPECTORS DO HAVE THE RIGHT TO DRILL OR ASK DRIVER TO MAKE CUTS TO MAKE EVERYTHING VISIBLE)
4. All trunks can be welded with a 12 x 12 hole cut in the center.
5. All QUARTER PANELS WILL REMAIN STRAIGHT OTHER THEN CREASING.
6. Welding of the trunks should not be excessive in the strap used. 4x1/8 strap is recommended
HOODS:
1. Hoods may be fastened down in 6 spots w/bolts, wire, or chain.
2. All thread may be used for the core support holes. The other 4 will be sheet metal to sheet metal.
3. Hood must be open for inspection and located in stock position. No bending in front of the radiator.
03 AND UP FOMOCO:
Can change cradle with a factory ford parts. You have to weld a 3/4 washer behind the a-arms on the frame that 3/4 bolt will fit in, then drill or cut center of washer or frame out for inspection. Band aids may not cover these up. Make sure we can see inside frame. All other mod rules apply.
OLD SCHOOL LIMITED WELD:
No trucks, vans, ambulances, jeeps, carry-alls, limousines, 4-wheel drives, hearses. No Chrysler Imperials or bodies on imperial frames. 74 Imperials and newer are ok.
Absolutely no: radiator guards (other than stock A.C. condenser) or tranny protectors.
Frames:
1. No, pinning, filling, stuffing or painting.
1a. You may seam weld the top seam only from the front most mount of the a-arm to the bumper. You also may use 1 piece per frame rail of 2x4x1/4 strap to help aid in mounting your bumpers. Do not go more then 4" onto frame.
2. Rust holes may be covered with a 4 x 6 x ¼ inch plate. They will count towards your 4 allowed plates.
3. Pre-rans will be allowed 4 plates – 4 x 6 x ¼ inch max. Fresh cars are allowed 2 plates 4x6x1/4 max
4. No frame shaping other than 12 inches in the center of each hump.
5. Only allowed method of pitching is to cold bend.
6. You may #9 wire or chain the frame rails together behind the humps. No homemade washers.
7. Frames can only be shortened to the front most weld of the core support mount.
8. On uni-body cars (i.e. Suicide Lincolns, Cordobas….) you must have a ¾ hole drilled in frame in front and behind the a-arms on both sides. You may weld a ¾ hardware washer around the drill hole.
9. All frames will be scoped, and may be drill if something is in question.
Suspension:
1. Steering box swaps allowed. No welding on frame, keep mounts minimal.
2. Tie rods can be welded up, but no added metal or bracing.
3. A-arms and spindles may be changed, but must stay Ford to Ford or GM to GM. No homemade or aftermarket parts with the exception of 98 and newer Ford cars may do the Watts Link conversion with ZTR style brackets. No additional metal may be added other than the brackets themselves.
4. Aftermarket steering shafts allowed.
5. A-arms may be bolted down with one 3/4 inch bolt per a-arm. No homemade washers. -Rear trail arms can be shortened or lengthened but not braced. Single hardware washers may be welded around the rear hole of the upper trail arms.
6. Rearend may be chained or wired around the frame in one spot per side.
7. Factory size, number and stagger will apply to factory leaf spring cars. 5 clamps per side, 2 3/8 inch bolts per clamp. Clamps no wider than 2 inches. No welding of leafs.
8. Shocks must appear stock, you may weld them to make them solid. No all thread shocks going thru the speaker deck.
Body Mounts:
1. Core support mounts may be replaced with up to 1 inch all-thread and ran through the hood. May be bolted solid or you may use a free-floating spacer. Spacers not to exceed 2x2 inch tubing.
2. 4 rear body mounts can be bolted solid. 2 of those may have ¾ inch all-thread ran vertically through the trunk lid. Wagons may go through the roof or pillars, but if you do that don’t use 2 pieces to hold the tailgate shut.
3. Core support and trunk washers may not exceed 4x4 inches.
4. Mopars can either go through the frame or be welded to the side. Must be on the flat part of the rear frame under the trunk pan.
5. No double nutting or sleeving the all-thread.
6. Body mounts from firewall to the humps may be changed. Only in factory locations. Only allowable substitution is to use a bolt no bigger than 3/4 inch. Must have rubber bushing with steel sleeve or you may use a hockey puck. Hardware washers only on the mounts from firewall to humps. Do Not weld anything to body or frame. You may use steel pucks or washers DO NOT WELD THESE TO THE FRAME OR BODY IN ANY WAY OR YOU WILL NOT RUN. You must maintaine the stock frame to body space if you use pucks or washers.
Drivetrain:
1. Any motor or transmission in any vehicle.
2. You may run a distributor protector, however if you choose to do so you must remove all cowl and firewall metal the width of the protector. Your distributor protector CANNOT connect the dash bar at anytime.
3. Engine cradles are allowed, but must not go past the third spark plug from the front. Front cradle CANNOT connect to mid-plate for your distributor protector in any way other then using a carburetor halo.
4. Solid lower engine mounts are allowed. If you need to weld plates under your lower mounts because they won’t sit on the engine crossmember that’s fine, but they must not be attached to the frame rails.
5. If you choose to chain your engine in, the chains must only be attached to the engine and straight down to engine crossmember.
6. Skid plates must be just for the pan they are protecting and can’t extend more than ½ inch from their pan.
7. You may run an aluminum ultra-bell on automatics. Manual transmissions may run a blow proof bell housing. No additional bolts or welding permitted. NO TRANSMISSION BRACES.
8. If you choose to not run the factory transmission cross member you may use 2”x2” tubing instead. It must mount in factory make and model location. No plates bigger than 4”x4” welded to the frame to weld your cross member to! Crossmember must be mounted within 12" of stock location.
9. If you’re using a bolt on style transmission mount, it must be an O.E.M. rubber mount. If you choose to not run a mount, you may wrap chain or wire around transmission and cross member to hold it in place. NO WELDING and only one bolt if you choose the wire or chain route. -If your car is factory equipped with a floating cross member (example: mid 70’s Fords and 74 and older Cadillacs) you may add TWO 5/8” bolts and bolt it solid to the floor. Washers cannot exceed 4”x4” diameter!!! This will be strictly enforced!!
10. Slider shafts are allowed.
11. Any factory car or truck rear end is allowed. No rear ends bigger than a 3500 series pickup permitted and only one wheel per side of rear end. You may weld brackets on the rear end to accommodate the vehicles factory suspension style. Rear end brace cannot go past inside edge of lower trail arm mount or inside edge of leaf spring pad. Brace must only run across the back of the rearend and CANNOT re-enforce the frame in any way.
Bumper/Bumper Mounting:
1. Homemade pointy bumpers must have tapered point that closely resembles Chrysler pointy bumper.
2. Bumpers may be plated on the inside and on the backing of the bumper. No sharp edges. -Any front bumper bracket may be used on any car. If you choose to, you may make your shocks out of 2”x2” tubing.
3. Absolutely no bracket or shock may be welded past 6 inches behind the factory core support mount hole on the frame rail. If your cars factory shock or bracket goes farther than 6 inches back, it must remain completely factory beyond the allotted 6 inches.
4. If you choose to hard nose or put your shock inside the frame you MUST have a ¾” hole in the top center of your frame 6 inches behind the factory core support mount hole on the frame rail. (unless we can clearly see the shock stops where it is supposed to). You may weld a ¾” hardware washer around the hole to make up for the missing metal. Single pass only! -Suicide Lincolns and cars that have no core support mount must only go 6 inches past the vertical part of core support right above the frame rail when mounting the bumper. -Rear bumper brackets may be welded, single pass only. Absolutely no rear bracket may be moved forward.
Cage:
1. 4 point cages are allowed. Must be a minimum of 6 inches above the factory body mount height.
2. Dash bar must be 6” from any firewall or cowl sheet metal, must also be 6” off the transmission tunnel.
3. 4 down legs are allowed to the frame, but must only be located in between the front door inner seams.
4. Down legs off of the cage that attach to the body must be no further back than the rear spreader and no further forward than the front door inner seam.
5. Roll over bars must be vertical and no further back than the rear spreader bar (maximum of 6 inches behind the seat). You will only be allowed to attach bar to roof with 2 bolts no bigger than 1 inch. Washers must not exceed 4”x4”.
6. Gas tank protectors are allowed but must remain 10 inches from the rear firewall and no more than 30 inches wide, and in the center of the car. It can be bolted to the floor if NOT attached to the cage.
Body:
1. Sheet metal may be cut for clearance, but no bending, folding or reattaching anywhere. -You may use five 3/8” bolts per wheel well opening. Hardware washers only. Absolutely no other bolting of the body other than the bolts allowed in the hood.
2. You’re allowed a maximum of 8 spots of double stranded #9 wire to hold hood down. You may weld a 1 inch hardware washer around each hole to keep from tearing. All wire must be body to body only.
3. Wagons tailgates may have 8 spots of double stranded #9 wire and 2 pieces of 3/4 all-thread, but the all-thread must be through the body only and NOT the frame.
4. The only acceptable rust repair on any car is allowed in the driver and passenger area. This is for safety purposes only, and if we think you used this to strengthen the car for anything other than safety purposes you will not be allowed to run.
5. Doors may be welded solid with strap no bigger than 4” x 1/8”. Tops of doors may be folded over and welded, but no added metal. Absolutely no other body seam welding besides doors!!
6. Hood must be open for inspection.
7. You may use 4 feet of 2”x 1/8” strap to secure trunk lids or wagon tailgates. Must be able to see inside trunk areas.
8. You may run double stranded #9 wire from quarter panel to quarter panel in trunk to keep the quarters from blowing apart. Single hardware washers may be welded around the holes.
9. No wedged cars allowed in Old School Class.
10. Sedagons will be allowed, but call for allowable tucking methods. MUST BE ABLE TO SEE INSIDE REAR COMPARTMENT AREA.
11. In addition to the 2 pieces of all-thread in the core support, you will be allowed 4 more bolts to hold the hood down. Must be body to body only and the washers must not exceed 4”x4”. Or you may use double stranded #9 wire in 8 spots.
12. No more than ten 3/8” bolts to hold your outer hood skin to your inner hood skin.
13. You will be allowed 4 spots of double stranded #9 wire from your hood/core support to your front bumper.
14. Body creasing is allowed, but absolutely no bolting or welding to assist.
15. 03 and newer car are allowed, but must run stock k-member. No extra metal on the aluminum k-member for strength.
Mini Class
RULES POSTED BELOW. This is a class that has guaranteed pay out.
WIRE CLASS
1. Any American-made sedan or station wagon No imperials
2. Helmet, seat belt, and eye protection must be worn at all times. Long sleeves and Long pants required.
3. Any controversies or protests must be brought up during the drivers meeting.
4. Any questions call first. If it doesn't say you can don't do it. Cars must be stock. No painting of the frames. If the car is black it must have a 12" x 12" roof sign.
5. Judges decision's are final. All cars are subject to re-inspection at any time before, during, or after the event.
6. All glass, plastic, and interior must be removed before arriving to the event.
7. Any car motor of choice is permitted. NO DISTRIBUTOR PROTECTORS. NO ENGINE CRADELS. NO MOTOR PROTECTORS OF ANY KIND. NO KICKERS. MUST USE STOCK MOUNTS. Can have ONE chain per side, going down TWO length welded 3/8 chain to cradle under engine not the frame.
8. Hood- wire ONLY. 8 double strand of #9 wire 2 may go around bumper and or frame. Hoods must be open for inspection. (12" x 12" hole over carburetor). Deck lids may be wired same way no welding permitted. A 14" x 14" inspection hole must be put in all deck lids. Deck lids MUST be in original position. NO WEDGING. NO BODY CREASING PERMITTED. All doors must be wired shut, except drivers door may be weld using no bigger then 2”x1/8” flat strap.
9. No interior seam welding will be permitted. Some rust repair is permitted do not go overboard.
10. Rear coil springs may be wired or chained. No solid suspensions. All suspension components must remain factory stock. No modifications will be permitted. Cars must bounce.
11. Front coil springs must remain stock. You can use screw-in spacers. Leaf spring cars must remain factory springs. NO EXCEPTIONS! You cannot change coil spring to leaf spring set ups.
12. Car must set level bumpers cannot be higher than 18” to bottom of bumper
13. Any stock 5 bolt rear end permitted. No rear end protectors. Must use STOCK trailing arms.
14. Tie Rods MAY BE REINFORCED No gas tank protectors.
15. Factory body bolts may be changed to ½” bolts you must use factory rubber and bushing spacer or there must be a 1 “ gap between body and frame.
16. You may have a bar in the dash area and a bar behind the seat with bars connecting the dash and rear bar on each side. Side bars must be inside of car not inside of doors. Roll over bar is permitted No down legs permitted no gussets permitted. No bigger than 4” in diameter bars and you can use a ¼” X 6” X 6” plate to attach bars to the sheet metal MUST HAVE A 5" SPACE FROM DASH BAR TO FIREWALL
17. Angles for cross member can't be longer than 5" and must be within 12" from factory location.
18. NO FRAME WELDING. You may weld the bumper to the bumper shock there must be at least a 1“ gap between bumper and frame Must use the factory bumper shock for car you are running. No hard nosing of bumper permitted. Any factory car bumper will be permitted no loading or plating of bumper permitted. No tilting OR COLD BENDING of frames will be permitted NO WELDING TO FRAME IS PERMITTED
19. Trailer hitches and braces must be removed.
20. Original gas tank must be removed and replaced with a boat-type tank or fuel cell. Moved inside of car behind driver's seat but no further back than rear axle. Batteries must be moved to passenger side floor board and securely fastened.
21. Only aftermarket parts that are permitted is a shifter, stacks, Tie rods, and steering column, gas pedal as long as it mounts to the engine block, cage, or floor. Floor mount pedals CAN NOT BE A BRAKE/ GAS PEDAL COMBO. You may also run a slider shaft.
22. Doubled tires permitted weld in centers are ok no rim guards or protectors of any kind.
Clinton County Fair Derby 2017
Chase Thompson
Frankfort, IN
46041
765-242-4358
Frankfort, Indiana 46041
Contact Chase Thompson for questions or info
765-242-4358
July 15, 2017 @ 6:00pm
Inspection starts @ 2:00pm
Cars must be inspected 1 hour before derby
ENTRY:
$40.00 CAR ENTRY
$20.00 PIT PASS
$7.00 GRANDSTANDS
KIDS FIVE AND UNDER FREE.
GUARANTEED PAYOUTS
PAYOUT FOR
PRO-MODS:
1ST: 1700
2ND 750
3RD: 300
4TH: 100
5TH: 50
LIMITED WELD:
1ST: 1700
2ND 750
3RD: 300
4TH: 100
5TH: 50
MINI CARS:
1ST: 1000
2ND: 500
3RD: 150
WIRE CLASS
PAYOUTS ARE TBD
(If we can get sponsor money we will have guaranteed payout, if not it will be 100% payback.)
Trial run for this class
Trophies for 1st, 2nd, 3rd, and mad dog trophy for each class
RULES:
Imperials are allowed in the Pro-mod Class Only. Any year sedan or station wagon allowed in stock class. Also you may run a convertible as long as a metal car roof has been installed without reinforcing the body of the car in any class.
Drivers: All drivers will fill out an entry form and sign insurance form to participate.
Men and Women will run in same class. NO Powder Puff
You must be 18 years old to compete with a valid driver’s license or valid ISSUED I.D. card from the state of your residence. (Do not forget your I.D. or you will not run)
Drivers must furnish his or her vehicle or have one sponsored to them.
Drivers must wear a helmet, eye protection, long pants, and shoes to be able to participate.
Cars MUST have working seatbelt and brakes. MANDATORY!
You must pass inspection within 3 times or you will not be allowed to run.
Driver/ Pit Crew members must NOT be under the influence of any alcohol. Alcohol and or illegal drugs will not permitted.
Entry fee is non-refundable if your car does not pass inspection.
All drivers must attend drivers meeting before show starts.
Heats will be assigned by staff and will be a course of elimination heats to advance to the feature.
THE DRIVER QUALIFIES FOR THE FEATURE NOT THE CAR, what this means is: if you destroy your car in the heat and you qualify for the feature "you may use another registered car that has RUN IN A HEAT OR CONSI. HEAD OFFICIAL MUST BE NOTIFIED TO MAKE CHANGES IN THE ROSTER. This person’s name is Chase Thompson
Do not get out of your vehicle unless you are told to do so by an official while you are competing in the arena area. Drivers must remain with their vehicles until they are removed from the arena.
NO PIT CREWS ALLOWED ON THE TRACK AT ANYTIME, FAMILY MEMBERS, or FRIENDS.
This will result in disqualification and forfeit of any prize money.
All cars will have a working seat belt for the driver’s seat and it will be on during the event. Car must also show the ability to stop.
NO DRIVERS DOOR HITS:
However, we all know that accidents do happen. If it looks intentional you will get disqualified. If it is questionable we may stop the heat or feature and it will be up to the driver who received the hit in the door if the violator is disqualified. SO PLEASE TELL ALL FAMILY MEMBERS AND FRIENDS SO THERE IS NO CONFUSION.
TEAM DRIVING:
It is allowed to a certain extent. YOU MUST MAKE COMPETITIVE CONTACT WITH ALL VEHICLES THAT ARE COMPETING IN THE ARENA. Do not make the officials dictate the outcome!!
Sandbagging:
It is up to the drivers that are competing to take out the other cars that are grocery shopping, not the officials. Remember 1 minute combat rule. 1 minute re-starts. "Some drivers may get more time for a re-start if they are putting on a good show"
Officials will paint an X on the sandbaggers so the rest of the field is aware of what is going on. It is up to you as a driver to take them out. The officials reserve the right and will disqualify a sandbagger if he does not get with the program.
FIRES:
Depending on what type of fire it is, you will be out.
ROLLOVERS: We hope this does not occur and at the first sign of a car rolling over YOU NEED TO GET OUT OF THE GAS & STOP.
Mandatory:
1. All DERBY CARS MUST HAVE NUMBERS ON BOTH DRIVER AND PASSENGER DOORS. Roof sign is optional and cannot reinforce the car.
2. Cars will operate in a safe manner during the heat and feature events. If a derby car appears to be at risk of injury to the driver, spectators, or officials you may be disqualified. (example: doors torn off exposing driver)
3. INSPECTION will occur before your car runs in its assigned heat. It will be subject to re-inspection at any time until feature is over. Once the winner has been declared it is over with no re-inspection.
4. NO PLASTIC GAS TANKS
OFFICIALS DECISIONS ARE FINAL:
NO UNSPORTSMAN LIKE CONDUCT WILL BE TOLORATED. Arrest or Removal from the fairground property will occur.
PRO-MODS :
1. All glass, lights, interior, ect. Must be removed before the car arrives at on the property and before inspection.
2. Batteries must be secured in the front passenger floor area with a cover. Gas tanks will be removed from all vehicles and a smaller gas tank can be re-located in the back seat floor area. Boat tank or fuel cell recommended.
3. Aftermarket steering columns are allowed
4. Transmission coolers are allowed in the driver/passenger area. Metal or high pressure lines only!
5. IN STATION WAGONS ALL REAR SEATS AND DECK LIDS MUST BE REMOVED BEFORE ARRIVAL TO GROUNDS.
6. You may swap any type of engine.
7. Engine mounts may be reinforced or homemade engine mounts. They cannot reinforce the frame in any way. Do not weld engine chains to the frame (must be bolted) unless it is on the engine cradle. Any skid plates must be welded to the pans or be part of your engine cradle / transmission protector. These CANNOT be connected to the frame in any way.
8. Engine cradles and transmission protectors are allowed but CANNOT reinforce frame.
9. You may use 2x2 square tubing for your crossmember.
BUMPERS:
1. You may use any type of car bumper, and it may be stuff and welded. You may also use homemade bumpers. Homemade bumpers must closely resemble OEM styles. NO ICE PICKS OR EXTREME POINTS, you will not run.
2. Rear bumpers CANNOT be loaded or homemade.
3. Bumper brackets can be welded to the frame. DO NOT PUT REAR BUMPER BRACKETS ON THE FRONT.
4. Bumpers can be held on by #9 wire in (4) spots to sheet metal.
5. You may have homemade bumper shocks (i.e. 2x2 tubing) but they may not extend past the front most part of the a-arms. If you decide not to use bumper shocks you may weld a 3/8 (max thickness) plate to the side of the frame. Plate may run from back of the bumper to the front most part of the a-arms. YOU MAY NOT USE BOTH.
5a. PLATES CANNOT FOLDED TO COVER THE TOP OR BOTTOM OF THE FRAME. ONE SIDE OF THE FRAME ONLY. Plate on the side of frame must also be 1 continuous piece.
6. Rear bumper height is NOT to be less 16 Inches from the ground to the bottom of the bumper.
SUSPENSIONS:
1. Any type rear end allowed.
2. NO braces from rear end to body or frame / factory mounting only. Chains on rear end are fine.
3. You may weld a 2x2 INCH STRAP on BOTH SIDES of the A-FRAME or have a bolt welded to the frame to bolt A-frame solid for height due to bad coil springs.
4. re-enforced or homemade tie rods are allowed.
5. all-thread is allowed for rear shocks.
6. YOU WILL BE ALLOWED TO LEAF SPRING A COIL SPRING CAR.
7. If you have a leaf spring vehicle no more than 9 springs and they must have stagger. (you may have a spring the same size as the main leaf).
7a. NO WELDING ON OR PLUG WELDED LEAF SPRINGS! 6 clamps per side.
7b. No cold rolled steel for springs. 6 clamps per side.
8. Control arms can be reinforced or make your own.
9. DO NOT REMOVE AND REWELD 97 AND NEWER LOWER CONTROL ARM ASSEMBLY MUST BE STOCK LOCATION ON FRAME.
Tires:
1. No tires bigger than a 16, any ply rating does not have to be DOT.
2. Tires inside of a tire OK.
3. Any split rims must be welded.
4. Bead locks ok. Valve stem protectors are ok.
5. No studded tires.
CAR FRAMES:
1. You may weld the top seam only. You may also weld body seams, DO NOT WELD BODIES TO THE FRAME.
2. 22 inch arch plates on rear (prefer contoured to the frame)
3. Split rail rear frames may be boxed in with the same thickness of metal (no bigger than 1/4 inch).)
4. ON A PRE-RAN CAR you can have (6) 4inch by 6inch plates anywhere on the frame as long as it is damaged. DO NOT RUN 4x6 PLATES TOGETHER space 2 inches. DO NOT put plates on top of any other plates.
4a. A FRESH CAR can have (2) 4inch by 6inch plates anywhere on the frame. THICKNESS ON ALL PLATES 1/4 (quarter inch). DO NOT PUT THESE PLATES ON TOP OF OR CONNECTED TO ANY OTHER PLATE, INCLUDING 3/8 PLATE RUNNING FROM BUMPER TO A-ARMS.
4b. Cars must have 2” gap between plates.
5. No additional welding on FORD CRUSH BOXES other than to tilt. This does not count as a top seam weld.
6. You may tilt rear frames on cars.
7. Frames will be GM Corporation to GM Corp., Ford Corp. to Ford Corp., Chrysler Corp. to Chrysler Corp. and car bodies will match the same manufacture as well. In other words do not put a Chevy clip in your Ford or a whole frame swap into another car manufacture. NO HYBRIDS = Clipping cars no newer or older frame swaps 60's clip in you 90's car. It must be same year frame swap. You may use an Imperial sub frame in non imperial sub frame cars (i.e. New Yorkers, Newports...)
8. You may change out the factory Ford Aluminum cradle with either a factory ford steel cradle, or a bolt aftermarket bolt in cradle.
9. On 1978 and older sedans only, you may extend your arch plate to the first body mount on the outside of the frame only and not go past the hole in the frame. 1980 and newer GM & Chrysler sedans can have this too.
10. Do not re-paint your frame or undercoat it. It will make for a long day for YOU to clean it off for the officials to inspect your car. All mud will be removed prior to inspection of car.
NO SUB FRAME IMPERIAL TO FULL FRAME IMPERIALS TO FULL FRAME IMPERIAL CONVERSIONS.
BODIES:
1. Body bolts no bigger than 1”. Do not go all the way through the frame (stock type mounting)
CAN BE MOUNTED SOLID W/no rubber (body & frame)
1a. Do not bolt or weld any part of car body, fenders or core support to the frame.
2. You are allowed a 3 inch washer to cover 1/4 inch thickness over body mount frame holes. Do not slide bodies on derby cars. They must remain in the stock position.
3. Do not double any metal on car bodies. If you have rusted out body mounts then use the same thickness to fix. Do not get carried away or you will cut it.
4. You may have bolts over your wheel wells for the quarters, no extra bracing just bolts and washers.
5. Core support and all thread. You may weld the core support to the fenders (do not add anything) "no plates". On the fords "guys are sticking pipe or square tubing to jack up the core support" this is ok and you can weld the pipe or square down to the frame so it is not sloppy. (Nothing bigger than 2 inches on pipe or square).
CAGES:
1. No pipe or square tubing bigger than 4 inch. Can be mounted to the frame and/or body.
2. No more than 8 legs including gas tank protector legs.
3. Legs cannot go inside the frame.
4. Legs must be straight down with no angle & in the driver’s compartment only.
5. Rear bar behind seat must accompany the down leg.
6. Overhead bar cannot be angled and will be near the driver’s helmet area.
7. Do not weld your dash bar to the cowl dash area. Dash Bar must be over the stock location of where the
steering column mount was. Do not double this area.
8. GAS TANK PROTECTORS MUST BE INSIDE THE FRAME RAILS ON ALL CARS OR 4 INCHES AWAY FROM SHEET METAL IF THEY ARE OVER THE RAILS.
9. DO NOT PUT PIPES OR ANYTHING ELSE INSIDE THE FRAME. If anything extra is found you will not be allowed to run period and will forfeit entry and or prize money!
10. Window bar for gas tank protector: May be connected to top of the car and no further than two inches onto the trunk.
11. We will give a little on this because of driver size, do not cover the entire driver / passenger compartment with a cage. 6 inches past the door post is the golden rule.
12. You may run two kickers behind the A-frames on a GM, FORD, or CHRYSLER or any other car manufacture not listed. NO KICKERS TO THE REAR FRAME. You may run 2 kickers from the spreader bar behind the driver seat to the rear crush box area. Do not go farther back then the sheet metal before the speaker deck area.
DOORS:
1. Can be welded solid with 2 wide inch strap.
2. Driver door plates are allowed, but must be on the driver door only.
TRUNKS:
1. May be chained, #9 wired, welded, or all thread.
2. You can use all thread for your body mounts in the trunk (2 only) "bolts must be inside the frame".
3. TRUNK LID MUST BE 12 INCHES FROM THE FLOOR ALL THE WAY ACROSS. WE MUST BE ABLE SEE INSIDE TRUNKS. ( INSPECTORS DO HAVE THE RIGHT TO DRILL OR ASK DRIVER TO MAKE CUTS TO MAKE EVERYTHING VISIBLE)
4. All trunks can be welded with a 12 x 12 hole cut in the center.
5. All QUARTER PANELS WILL REMAIN STRAIGHT OTHER THEN CREASING.
6. Welding of the trunks should not be excessive in the strap used. 4x1/8 strap is recommended
HOODS:
1. Hoods may be fastened down in 6 spots w/bolts, wire, or chain.
2. All thread may be used for the core support holes. The other 4 will be sheet metal to sheet metal.
3. Hood must be open for inspection and located in stock position. No bending in front of the radiator.
03 AND UP FOMOCO:
Can change cradle with a factory ford parts. You have to weld a 3/4 washer behind the a-arms on the frame that 3/4 bolt will fit in, then drill or cut center of washer or frame out for inspection. Band aids may not cover these up. Make sure we can see inside frame. All other mod rules apply.
OLD SCHOOL LIMITED WELD:
No trucks, vans, ambulances, jeeps, carry-alls, limousines, 4-wheel drives, hearses. No Chrysler Imperials or bodies on imperial frames. 74 Imperials and newer are ok.
Absolutely no: radiator guards (other than stock A.C. condenser) or tranny protectors.
Frames:
1. No, pinning, filling, stuffing or painting.
1a. You may seam weld the top seam only from the front most mount of the a-arm to the bumper. You also may use 1 piece per frame rail of 2x4x1/4 strap to help aid in mounting your bumpers. Do not go more then 4" onto frame.
2. Rust holes may be covered with a 4 x 6 x ¼ inch plate. They will count towards your 4 allowed plates.
3. Pre-rans will be allowed 4 plates – 4 x 6 x ¼ inch max. Fresh cars are allowed 2 plates 4x6x1/4 max
4. No frame shaping other than 12 inches in the center of each hump.
5. Only allowed method of pitching is to cold bend.
6. You may #9 wire or chain the frame rails together behind the humps. No homemade washers.
7. Frames can only be shortened to the front most weld of the core support mount.
8. On uni-body cars (i.e. Suicide Lincolns, Cordobas….) you must have a ¾ hole drilled in frame in front and behind the a-arms on both sides. You may weld a ¾ hardware washer around the drill hole.
9. All frames will be scoped, and may be drill if something is in question.
Suspension:
1. Steering box swaps allowed. No welding on frame, keep mounts minimal.
2. Tie rods can be welded up, but no added metal or bracing.
3. A-arms and spindles may be changed, but must stay Ford to Ford or GM to GM. No homemade or aftermarket parts with the exception of 98 and newer Ford cars may do the Watts Link conversion with ZTR style brackets. No additional metal may be added other than the brackets themselves.
4. Aftermarket steering shafts allowed.
5. A-arms may be bolted down with one 3/4 inch bolt per a-arm. No homemade washers. -Rear trail arms can be shortened or lengthened but not braced. Single hardware washers may be welded around the rear hole of the upper trail arms.
6. Rearend may be chained or wired around the frame in one spot per side.
7. Factory size, number and stagger will apply to factory leaf spring cars. 5 clamps per side, 2 3/8 inch bolts per clamp. Clamps no wider than 2 inches. No welding of leafs.
8. Shocks must appear stock, you may weld them to make them solid. No all thread shocks going thru the speaker deck.
Body Mounts:
1. Core support mounts may be replaced with up to 1 inch all-thread and ran through the hood. May be bolted solid or you may use a free-floating spacer. Spacers not to exceed 2x2 inch tubing.
2. 4 rear body mounts can be bolted solid. 2 of those may have ¾ inch all-thread ran vertically through the trunk lid. Wagons may go through the roof or pillars, but if you do that don’t use 2 pieces to hold the tailgate shut.
3. Core support and trunk washers may not exceed 4x4 inches.
4. Mopars can either go through the frame or be welded to the side. Must be on the flat part of the rear frame under the trunk pan.
5. No double nutting or sleeving the all-thread.
6. Body mounts from firewall to the humps may be changed. Only in factory locations. Only allowable substitution is to use a bolt no bigger than 3/4 inch. Must have rubber bushing with steel sleeve or you may use a hockey puck. Hardware washers only on the mounts from firewall to humps. Do Not weld anything to body or frame. You may use steel pucks or washers DO NOT WELD THESE TO THE FRAME OR BODY IN ANY WAY OR YOU WILL NOT RUN. You must maintaine the stock frame to body space if you use pucks or washers.
Drivetrain:
1. Any motor or transmission in any vehicle.
2. You may run a distributor protector, however if you choose to do so you must remove all cowl and firewall metal the width of the protector. Your distributor protector CANNOT connect the dash bar at anytime.
3. Engine cradles are allowed, but must not go past the third spark plug from the front. Front cradle CANNOT connect to mid-plate for your distributor protector in any way other then using a carburetor halo.
4. Solid lower engine mounts are allowed. If you need to weld plates under your lower mounts because they won’t sit on the engine crossmember that’s fine, but they must not be attached to the frame rails.
5. If you choose to chain your engine in, the chains must only be attached to the engine and straight down to engine crossmember.
6. Skid plates must be just for the pan they are protecting and can’t extend more than ½ inch from their pan.
7. You may run an aluminum ultra-bell on automatics. Manual transmissions may run a blow proof bell housing. No additional bolts or welding permitted. NO TRANSMISSION BRACES.
8. If you choose to not run the factory transmission cross member you may use 2”x2” tubing instead. It must mount in factory make and model location. No plates bigger than 4”x4” welded to the frame to weld your cross member to! Crossmember must be mounted within 12" of stock location.
9. If you’re using a bolt on style transmission mount, it must be an O.E.M. rubber mount. If you choose to not run a mount, you may wrap chain or wire around transmission and cross member to hold it in place. NO WELDING and only one bolt if you choose the wire or chain route. -If your car is factory equipped with a floating cross member (example: mid 70’s Fords and 74 and older Cadillacs) you may add TWO 5/8” bolts and bolt it solid to the floor. Washers cannot exceed 4”x4” diameter!!! This will be strictly enforced!!
10. Slider shafts are allowed.
11. Any factory car or truck rear end is allowed. No rear ends bigger than a 3500 series pickup permitted and only one wheel per side of rear end. You may weld brackets on the rear end to accommodate the vehicles factory suspension style. Rear end brace cannot go past inside edge of lower trail arm mount or inside edge of leaf spring pad. Brace must only run across the back of the rearend and CANNOT re-enforce the frame in any way.
Bumper/Bumper Mounting:
1. Homemade pointy bumpers must have tapered point that closely resembles Chrysler pointy bumper.
2. Bumpers may be plated on the inside and on the backing of the bumper. No sharp edges. -Any front bumper bracket may be used on any car. If you choose to, you may make your shocks out of 2”x2” tubing.
3. Absolutely no bracket or shock may be welded past 6 inches behind the factory core support mount hole on the frame rail. If your cars factory shock or bracket goes farther than 6 inches back, it must remain completely factory beyond the allotted 6 inches.
4. If you choose to hard nose or put your shock inside the frame you MUST have a ¾” hole in the top center of your frame 6 inches behind the factory core support mount hole on the frame rail. (unless we can clearly see the shock stops where it is supposed to). You may weld a ¾” hardware washer around the hole to make up for the missing metal. Single pass only! -Suicide Lincolns and cars that have no core support mount must only go 6 inches past the vertical part of core support right above the frame rail when mounting the bumper. -Rear bumper brackets may be welded, single pass only. Absolutely no rear bracket may be moved forward.
Cage:
1. 4 point cages are allowed. Must be a minimum of 6 inches above the factory body mount height.
2. Dash bar must be 6” from any firewall or cowl sheet metal, must also be 6” off the transmission tunnel.
3. 4 down legs are allowed to the frame, but must only be located in between the front door inner seams.
4. Down legs off of the cage that attach to the body must be no further back than the rear spreader and no further forward than the front door inner seam.
5. Roll over bars must be vertical and no further back than the rear spreader bar (maximum of 6 inches behind the seat). You will only be allowed to attach bar to roof with 2 bolts no bigger than 1 inch. Washers must not exceed 4”x4”.
6. Gas tank protectors are allowed but must remain 10 inches from the rear firewall and no more than 30 inches wide, and in the center of the car. It can be bolted to the floor if NOT attached to the cage.
Body:
1. Sheet metal may be cut for clearance, but no bending, folding or reattaching anywhere. -You may use five 3/8” bolts per wheel well opening. Hardware washers only. Absolutely no other bolting of the body other than the bolts allowed in the hood.
2. You’re allowed a maximum of 8 spots of double stranded #9 wire to hold hood down. You may weld a 1 inch hardware washer around each hole to keep from tearing. All wire must be body to body only.
3. Wagons tailgates may have 8 spots of double stranded #9 wire and 2 pieces of 3/4 all-thread, but the all-thread must be through the body only and NOT the frame.
4. The only acceptable rust repair on any car is allowed in the driver and passenger area. This is for safety purposes only, and if we think you used this to strengthen the car for anything other than safety purposes you will not be allowed to run.
5. Doors may be welded solid with strap no bigger than 4” x 1/8”. Tops of doors may be folded over and welded, but no added metal. Absolutely no other body seam welding besides doors!!
6. Hood must be open for inspection.
7. You may use 4 feet of 2”x 1/8” strap to secure trunk lids or wagon tailgates. Must be able to see inside trunk areas.
8. You may run double stranded #9 wire from quarter panel to quarter panel in trunk to keep the quarters from blowing apart. Single hardware washers may be welded around the holes.
9. No wedged cars allowed in Old School Class.
10. Sedagons will be allowed, but call for allowable tucking methods. MUST BE ABLE TO SEE INSIDE REAR COMPARTMENT AREA.
11. In addition to the 2 pieces of all-thread in the core support, you will be allowed 4 more bolts to hold the hood down. Must be body to body only and the washers must not exceed 4”x4”. Or you may use double stranded #9 wire in 8 spots.
12. No more than ten 3/8” bolts to hold your outer hood skin to your inner hood skin.
13. You will be allowed 4 spots of double stranded #9 wire from your hood/core support to your front bumper.
14. Body creasing is allowed, but absolutely no bolting or welding to assist.
15. 03 and newer car are allowed, but must run stock k-member. No extra metal on the aluminum k-member for strength.
Mini Class
RULES POSTED BELOW. This is a class that has guaranteed pay out.
WIRE CLASS
1. Any American-made sedan or station wagon No imperials
2. Helmet, seat belt, and eye protection must be worn at all times. Long sleeves and Long pants required.
3. Any controversies or protests must be brought up during the drivers meeting.
4. Any questions call first. If it doesn't say you can don't do it. Cars must be stock. No painting of the frames. If the car is black it must have a 12" x 12" roof sign.
5. Judges decision's are final. All cars are subject to re-inspection at any time before, during, or after the event.
6. All glass, plastic, and interior must be removed before arriving to the event.
7. Any car motor of choice is permitted. NO DISTRIBUTOR PROTECTORS. NO ENGINE CRADELS. NO MOTOR PROTECTORS OF ANY KIND. NO KICKERS. MUST USE STOCK MOUNTS. Can have ONE chain per side, going down TWO length welded 3/8 chain to cradle under engine not the frame.
8. Hood- wire ONLY. 8 double strand of #9 wire 2 may go around bumper and or frame. Hoods must be open for inspection. (12" x 12" hole over carburetor). Deck lids may be wired same way no welding permitted. A 14" x 14" inspection hole must be put in all deck lids. Deck lids MUST be in original position. NO WEDGING. NO BODY CREASING PERMITTED. All doors must be wired shut, except drivers door may be weld using no bigger then 2”x1/8” flat strap.
9. No interior seam welding will be permitted. Some rust repair is permitted do not go overboard.
10. Rear coil springs may be wired or chained. No solid suspensions. All suspension components must remain factory stock. No modifications will be permitted. Cars must bounce.
11. Front coil springs must remain stock. You can use screw-in spacers. Leaf spring cars must remain factory springs. NO EXCEPTIONS! You cannot change coil spring to leaf spring set ups.
12. Car must set level bumpers cannot be higher than 18” to bottom of bumper
13. Any stock 5 bolt rear end permitted. No rear end protectors. Must use STOCK trailing arms.
14. Tie Rods MAY BE REINFORCED No gas tank protectors.
15. Factory body bolts may be changed to ½” bolts you must use factory rubber and bushing spacer or there must be a 1 “ gap between body and frame.
16. You may have a bar in the dash area and a bar behind the seat with bars connecting the dash and rear bar on each side. Side bars must be inside of car not inside of doors. Roll over bar is permitted No down legs permitted no gussets permitted. No bigger than 4” in diameter bars and you can use a ¼” X 6” X 6” plate to attach bars to the sheet metal MUST HAVE A 5" SPACE FROM DASH BAR TO FIREWALL
17. Angles for cross member can't be longer than 5" and must be within 12" from factory location.
18. NO FRAME WELDING. You may weld the bumper to the bumper shock there must be at least a 1“ gap between bumper and frame Must use the factory bumper shock for car you are running. No hard nosing of bumper permitted. Any factory car bumper will be permitted no loading or plating of bumper permitted. No tilting OR COLD BENDING of frames will be permitted NO WELDING TO FRAME IS PERMITTED
19. Trailer hitches and braces must be removed.
20. Original gas tank must be removed and replaced with a boat-type tank or fuel cell. Moved inside of car behind driver's seat but no further back than rear axle. Batteries must be moved to passenger side floor board and securely fastened.
21. Only aftermarket parts that are permitted is a shifter, stacks, Tie rods, and steering column, gas pedal as long as it mounts to the engine block, cage, or floor. Floor mount pedals CAN NOT BE A BRAKE/ GAS PEDAL COMBO. You may also run a slider shaft.
22. Doubled tires permitted weld in centers are ok no rim guards or protectors of any kind.
Clinton County Fair Derby 2017
Chase Thompson
Frankfort, IN
46041
765-242-4358
