Route 1 Rumble
Heat Winner
2023 Route 1 Rumble - 7/29/23 @ 6:00 pm
Posts: 308
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Post by Route 1 Rumble on Jan 1, 2017 22:53:28 GMT -5
2017 ROUTE 1 RUMBLE EDGAR COUNTY FAIR DEMO DERBY Paris, IL Rick Dodd - Superintendent 217-712-0123 Call or Text after 5pm
SATURDAY, JULY 29, 2017 6:00 PM
2017 EDGAR COUNTY FAIR ASSOCIATION DEMOLITION DERBY RULES & REGULATIONS FOR MODIFIED, COMPACT, TRUCKS, FWD CLASS, AND OSP’s OLD SCHOOL CLASS
Any DRIVER under the influence of alcohol or drugs will be DISQUALIFIED AND REMOVED from PREMISES WITH ENTRY FEE FORFEITED. Alcoholic beverages WILL NOT BE ALLOWED ON FAIR GROUNDS OR INFIELD! All vehicles entering the infield will be searched! If you don’t want your vehicle to be searched, don’t park in the infield. Anyone caught with alcohol on the fairgrounds will be removed and no refunds will be made.
Each driver must fill out an entry form at the back gate the day of the derby. Each driver must supply his or her own vehicle and only ONE entry per class per driver.
Drivers must be 16 years or older to enter. Drivers under the age of 18 MUST have a parent or guardian sign a waiver. Driver will receive a pit pass upon registration for the derby on the day of the derby. If vehicle does not pass inspection, the owner will have to pay for a pit pass if he or she wants to remain in the pit area.
Nobody allowed on the track except the drivers, officials and emergency personnel. NO EXCEPTIONS!
Any driver or crew member disobeying the rules will cause his or her vehicle to be disqualified. Drivers are responsible for the actions of their crew.
Contestants of the derby cannot be superintendents or officials of the Edgar County Fair Demolition Derby.
The Edgar County Fair Association will not be held responsible for any vehicles or personal property before, during and after the show.
Infield and pit speeds will be enforced. No hot-rodding, donuts, or other unsafe driving will be tolerated. These practices can be grounds for disqualification with entry fee forfeited.
Any altercations between drivers, crew, or officials will be grounds for disqualifications and possibly being barred from future derbies.
If a driver exits their vehicle during a green flag for any reason other than fire or injury he or she will be disqualified.
It is the Driver who qualifies, not the car
CONTESTANTS ARE TO USE THE NORTH FAIRGROUNDS ENTRANCE ONLY.
The Edgar County Fair Association reserves the right to accept or reject any or all entries.
DECISIONS OF OFFICIALS ARE FINAL!!!!!
GENERAL RULES:
1. THESE RULES ARE A GUIDELINE THAT SPECIFIES WHAT WE WILL ALLOW, IT DOES NOT SPECIFY WHAT WE WILL NOT ALLOW. IF NOT LISTED HERE, CALL BEFORE YOU DO IT. DO NOT COME UP TO US AT THE DERBY AND ASK US TO SHOW YOU IN THE RULES WHERE IT STATES THAT BECAUSE IT DOESN’T NEED TO. CALL FIRST!!! 2. If you’re under 18, you must have a signed consent form from a parent/legal guardian. 3. Due to a Fair ordinance, there is NO ALCOHOL allowed on the fairgrounds. Coolers will be inspected! You WILL forfeit any alcohol found and will lose it! No firearms, knives, or weapons of any kind will be allowed. 4. DOT approved helmet MUST be worn while on the track. Eye Protection is required. Long Sleeve Shirt must be worn. 5. Car must have working seat belts for the driver & must be worn during the heat. 6. An idle zone will be strictly enforced in ALL areas of the pits. Violators will be subject to grounds removal or arrest. 7. If you are using a torch, you must have a fire extinguisher with you. 8. NO gangbanging & NO sandbagging! – If you don’t know what this is, you better ask. 9. Must make contact within 60 seconds if you are having mechanical problems or hung up, otherwise, you must make AGGRESSIVE contact!!! We use our own discretion for this rule. If a driver is really hitting well, he may get more time, if a driver is love tapping, he may get less, so get used to it. Sandbagging is not tolerated and will be strictly enforced. Locking up the brakes prior to a hit for anything other than a driver’s door as a defense will be a cause for disqualification. The fans pay to see a show. Put one on for them! 10. One (1) warning for driver’s door contact, 2nd time you are eliminated! Driver’s door hits are illegal. If the hit is deemed by the official to be careless or intentional, you will be disqualified. If you use your driver’s door as a defense, we will not enforce the rule. If you do it repeatedly, you will be disqualified. 11. One (1) fire is allowed in the engine compartment, second fire you are disqualified. One (1) fire in passenger compartment and you will be disqualified. If a door comes open you are disqualified. You may return in the consolation heat. 12. NO fighting will be tolerated and may result in automatic park ejection and possible arrest! 13. If you are caught cheating, you get NOTHING back, so don’t ask!!! 14. Drivers will be assigned heats as they enter in a predetermined pattern that varies show to show. 15. Please take all scrap with you! All items (including vehicles) left in the park the next day WILL BECOME PROPERTY OF THE EDGAR COUNTY FAIR ASSOCIATION. 16. Nobody on the track except the drivers, officials, and emergency personnel. NO EXCEPTIONS! 17. ALL drivers must attend the drivers meeting – ANY controversies must be brought up at the drivers meeting or not at all! 18. Cars MUST be painted tastefully! No PROFANITY or OFFENSIVE material allowed on the car, including numbers!!! This is a family show! If you don’t know what this means, call! 19. THE FINAL 5 FEATURE WINNERS MAY BE FULLY INSPECTED AFTER THE SHOW BY THE OFFICIALS! We reserve the right to cut or drill anything in question at anytime. Failure to allow this will result in disqualification. 20. $100 TO PROTEST A CAR. Only other drivers from that particular heat are able to protest a car & the driver MUST have the cash in hand in order to protest. At the time of protest, BOTH the protested car AND the car owned by the protester WILL be re-inspected. The ONLY people that may be present during the re-inspection of the protested car is the inspection crew, the driver of the protested car & the protester. NO other people may be within 50’ of the re-inspection. If the car passes the inspection, the “protested” driver will receive the $100. However, if anything illegal is found, the $100 goes back to the Protester. 21. All drivers' must keep their hands inside the car at all times! If we see you driving with your hand on your door we will stop the race once, next time you're out. We want everyone to leave with all the body parts they came with! 22. All glass, plastic, chrome, wheel weights, and loose debris must be removed from the car. All hitches must be removed. The stock gas tank MUST be removed. 23. No concrete anywhere on the car. 24. Passenger cars or station wagons only. No hearses, checkered cabs, or limousines. Cars may be re-stubbed, but must be ford-ford, Gm-Gm, Chrysler-Chrysler, and must be done in a factory manner. Sedagons will be allowed 25. Front doors should be painted white to help us cut down on door hits. If your door is not white – don’t whine if we don’t see a door hit on your car. Numbers clearly painted with no offensive numbers allowed. 26. Horn must be removed or NOT used during the heat! Subject to disqualification if used. 27. Driver only must bring car to inspection unless pre-approved by head official. 28. SAFETY FIRST: No unsafe practices like protruding all thread, radiator drain hoses pointed at people, and teeth cut into the bumpers, etc. If a bumper or something comes loose during the race and appears to be a safety concern, we reserve the right to act and correct it. 29. In addition to the doors, the car must have the number on a roof sign on the roof of the car a minimum of 24” tall. No PROFANITY or OFFENSIVE material including numbers allowed on the car!!! This is a family show! 30. ENGINE / TRANSMISSION MUST BE ISOLATED FROM THE PASSENGER COMPARTMENT WITH STEEL, FIRE BLANKET, RUBBER, OR APPROVED FIRE RESISTANT MATERIAL IF FIREWALL / FLOORBOARDS ARE MODIFIED. 31. Once again, OFFICIALS DECISION IS FINAL, so if unsure if you can do something, please call ahead. 32. If putting patches on frame after heats, consult an Official before you put any band-aid on your car before Feature run. Remember, only 4 total repairs. ASK BEFORE YOU DO IT!! 33. We strongly suggest that you have roll over protection for Safety!!! 34. We reserve the right to clear the track during a heat or feature for any reason we deem necessary.
PLEASE NOTE ALL RULES ARE SUBJECT TO CHANGE IN CASE WE MISS ANYTHING OR THERE ARE CLARIFICATIONS NEEDED.
Remember: just because it is not in print, don't mean it is allowed.Call BEFORE you do it. Inspection crew has final ruling.
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Route 1 Rumble
Heat Winner
2023 Route 1 Rumble - 7/29/23 @ 6:00 pm
Posts: 308
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Post by Route 1 Rumble on Jan 1, 2017 22:53:43 GMT -5
MODIFIED RULES: ***if there are more than 24 Mods, we may run Heats***
CAGE **REQUIRED Spreader bar must be at least channel, square tubing, or pipe, NO thin wall material! Car must have REQUIRED door protection for driver. Minimum required 4 point cage. Front cage bar (dash bar) must be straight across front of car and maintain the 6” gap to the distributor protector. You are allowed two down bars per side that may attach to the frame. Cage must go no further back than the front edge of the rear wheel humps. Down legs in rear must go to flat part of frame only. There may also be 1 rollover loop that can be attached to the bar behind the seat and go straight up over the exterior side of the roof. Cage may have 4 down legs, 3 spreader bars and 2 door bars.
1. Battery must be moved inside the passenger compartment and tightly fastened with a cover. You may use 2 automotive batteries or 1 large marine battery. 2. Gas Tank must be mounted inside the passenger compartment, tightly secured, and covered. Plastic tanks must be in a solid metal containment box & covered or you will not be allowed to participate. No exceptions. (We strongly recommend metal tanks!). Absolutely NO stock fuel lines. Secure new fuel line properly inside of the driver’s compartment, not underneath car. Keep away from exhaust. Gas tank protectors must be mounted to the cage or the floor pan, not both. Gas tank protector if on cage must be a "halo" type bar only, no gap required between protector and cage if floor mounted and not connected to sheet metal in any way (bolted or welded). Electric fuel pumps must be double clamped and covered. NO electronic fuel pumps without a full cutoff switch. 3. Battery and Gas Tank must be in separate areas and covered (Not next to each other) OR in separate containment boxes. 4. Brakes must be working – be prepared to demonstrate. Violators will not be allowed to participate if this occurs before or during the events. 5. We will allow 1 transmission cooler and 1 engine cooler. a) Transmission coolers must be near floor level or contained. Steel or high pressure lines only. b) Transmission cross member allowed up to 3” x 3” x ¼” material, 6 inches along mounting on the frame 6. Radiators must remain in stock position with no reinforcement. Radiators must remain in stock position, radiator guards allowed but must be thin material and not be reinforcing to the overall structure of the car. Engines must be mounted with the #1 spark plug being lined up with the ball joint and/or strut, no farther back! Engine mounting chains may be bolted or welded but only to engine cradle, not the side rail. 7. Wire is to be #9 wire, unlimited amount (Use as much as you want because anyone can get it) 8. Hood MUST be open at inspection– NO EXCEPTIONS! If you bring it wired shut, we WILL cut it open to inspect. Hood must be brought to the inspection line if not attached to car. You MAY use 6 pcs. of 1" all-thread but nuts must have handle for easy removal. The front two hood bolts can go through frame by the core support. The other four must be sheet metal to sheet metal. You may use 2” angle x 4” long in 6 spots for bolting hood and fender together as an option to running all thread to the core support. No other hood support or angle “handles” allowed on the hood. You must remove hood springs or cylinders before running. You may have 6 hold-downs on hood and trunk. Unlimited wire. Hood must cover fan blade or fan taken off, no exceptions. HOOD MUST FIT BETWEEN THE FENDERS LIKE FACTORY. Hood MUST remain in stock position. (Not shifted and bent down to the bumper to protect the radiator.) Holes must be cut in hood for fire extinguishment. (If there are not header holes, a special hole must be cut.) 9. Doors – All doors can be welded shut. Weld CAN be solid on ALL doors. You may also skip weld, chain, or wire them shut as long as it is SECURE. Top of doors may be pinched and welded with no fillers. Outside seams allowed plate up to 4” wide. Inner door seams allowed plate up to 2” wide, may reinforce driver’s door, inside only for safety. 10. Roof - In addition to the doors, the car must have the number on a roof sign on the roof of the car a minimum of 24” tall. No PROFANITY or OFFENSIVE material including numbers allowed on the car!!! This is a family show! 11. Trunk – We MUST be able to see inside of trunk compartment. You must have at least a 4” diameter hole in the lid. Trunk lids can be attached 1 of 3 ways: a.) full weld maximum 3" width material and 3/8” thick and 2 pieces of all-thread to the frame b.) 6 pieces of up to 1” all-thread 2 to frame, 4 to sheet metal with no weld. c.) Unlimited #9 wire. (wire allowed with all options.) Wagon tailgates are considered same as a trunk lid. You may NOT attach the trunk lid to the floor of the trunk. You cannot see under the lid when this is done. The lid must be mounted or removed. The rear deck must be removed on station wagons! Rear hatch cylinders must be removed when applicable. Rear window bar can only attach 2” onto trunk lid, any further and you will cut. Window bar not allowed on wagons. 12. Body Mounts may be taken out or replaced with stacked washers and all thread or bolts NO bigger than 1”. Washers used must not be bigger than 4”x 4” and must be free floating, must have spacing, gap must be maintained to fully inspect topside of frame (Not welded to the body or frame). To make it easier, instead of washers, you may leave the original puck, replace the bolts, and torque them down to smash the puck some as long as a space is maintained. The front body mounts may be replaced with all thread that also holds the hood down, but we require that you weld a handle to the hood nuts so we can easily open it without a wrench. You may add (2) body mounts at the driver’s location of choice. Extra body mounts must be welded to or pass through frame. All other body mounts must remain in their stock position unless rust out prevents this and then must be pre-approved. Angle iron is allowed in this location only for ease of use to run wire to. Must be 4”x 4” max. You also may weld a 3”x 3” washer on top of each body mount hole, rusted or not. Factory washer or cut plate allowed no thicker than 3/8”. All thread or bolts only allowed to have 4” past each nut at the frame or body level whichever it is securing. 13. Bumpers: You can use ANY factory bumper or bumper shock on ANY model car. 2 bumper shocks max per fame rail, one front & one rear only per side. There must be a minimum 6" gap between bumper shocks and a-arms. You may manufacture your own bumper mounts within these limits (4” max material). If you make a "homemade pointy" you have to have it where it is the same dimensions as factory Chrysler pointy. We will have a template made from a fresh bumper. Anything that doesn't match factory dimensions will have to be cut. No small wedges allowed one's that looks like a wood splitting wedge. Maximum homemade bumper height 6”. 6” maximum bumper material, 4” max material on bumper shocks, cannot be stacked. Your mounting is restricted to the rail only and can't bridge across frame rails. In addition to the weld &/or bolts, we also recommend either wiring or chaining the bumper to the frame. You may use a strap to help hold bumper on. It is to be no thicker than 3/8” and no wider than 4” and should not extend past 6” on top of the frame. Bumper strap to top or bottom of frame not both. No kickers from corner of bumper to frame. You are allowed to run a 1/4" spec bumper. Can be up to 1/4" box tubing but must appear like a bumper! Minor “bumper only” reinforcement allowed to extend the life, but must be on the bumper only. No rear bumper brackets on the front of cars. Hard nosing allowed. You are allowed up to 24" of bumper to body welding with no fillers or plates. That is total for front and rear bumpers. Maximum front bumper height is 22” from the ground to the BOTTOM of the bumper. Minimum back bumper height is 16” from the ground to the BOTTOM of the bumper. 14. Frames: There must not be any frame pinning, filling, stuffing, or concrete. You may plate 2 plates 4” x 6” x 3/8” on fresh car in the location of your choice. You may weld a PLATE band-aid NO BIGGER than 4” x 6” x 3/8” to a crack, break, or severe bend in the frame of a pre-ran car or a rusted through section of a fresh car. MUST be able to see the crack or bend for verification. Band-aid must be flat plate, NO angle iron, no bending plate to make angle! Band-aids must not be welded to other band-aids. NO MORE than 6 band-aids on the frame (total) to repair a crack or bend, so if your frame has more damage than that, some cracks will need to let nature take its course! Do not call to see if you can put on a 7th, because you can’t. You may seam weld the frame the entire length. Seam welds should be no more than 1/2" wide. If a portion of the frame needs replaced, you may do so after checking with the head inspector (DON’T get excessive). NO frame pinning. There cannot be any undercoating, paint, or other material on the frame. No grind marks on frame unless approved. A 22” hump plate is allowed but must be one continuous plate. Can be kicked forward, backward or centered as long as it contacts the center of the hump. 3/8” thick on the outside only and must be contoured to the frame. Can be no more than 4” tall.
DI cars will be allowed to cut down their front (a-arm forward). There must be a 6” gap between the plate and the a-arms. These will count as your bumper strap and your 2 fresh plate patches. You will be allowed (4) 4" x 6" x 3/8" band-aid plates anywhere else on visible bends.
a 22” long x 4” wide x 3/8” thick hump plate is allowed. Plate must be continuous and contour to shape of frame. Plate does not have to be centered, as long as one end contacts the center of the hump. Hump plates not allowed on leaf spring conversion cars.
creasing, or reshaping allowed. No welding creased or reshaped areas together. Only welding allowed is on factory frame seams. Hump plates allowed unless excluded by leaf spring rules
15. No Body Plates except to hold the spreader bars in place or to protect driver, but not to exceed 6” past the door seam. You can patch rust holes in sheet metal with sheet metal of same thickness only! Do not cut rust out-weld 2” beyond rust. You may re-weld factory body seams, but do NOT add any steel other than the weld bead. No weld stacking or filler on anybody or frame bead (except the doors.) No body panel doubling! 16. Skid Plates are allowed but must remain separate for your oil and transmission. No full length skid plates and no bolting & welding it to the frame. 17. Distributor Protectors allowed but must not touch the cage anywhere. Sheet metal only. 6” gap between protector and cage. There can be nothing between, above or below the distributor protector and the dash bar besides the firewall. 18. Tires: No solid Tires (Hyster tires, etc.) Tires MUST contain some air. 19. Window Braces: Car must have a pipe, wire, or plate from the cowl to the roof to prevent the hood from entering car. You may add one to the front & side windows. 2 pieces in each window opening max. Max. Material is 4 x 3/8. All window braces must be outboard of the distributor protector. Windshield bar must mount to roof sheet metal only. This is for your safety, not to reinforce your car 20. Springs: Stock Springs must remain on the car. 4 clamps allowed on each leaf spring, no bigger than 2x4x3/8”. You cannot weld the leafs together! Springs must fit inside 3/8” wrench opening. You can wire or bolt the coils to the rear end and weld the leaf brackets to the car. On coil spring cars you may put taller springs in to get height "don't get extreme" but you cannot weld any other material to them or in place of springs. 98-02s- you have 1 of 2 options. 1) you may use the ztr brackets or make your own brackets but must resemble the way it would mount in a 79-97 ford 2) you can cut the package trey out of a older ford and weld in the 98-02 but no doubling of package treys and may cut the brackets off a older ford and re-weld on 98-02 to mount bottom trailing arms. a) Leaf spring conversions are allowed. Conversions must be done in a factory like manner. All leaf spring cars may have the leaf pack mounted under the frame rail. Under the frame rail mounts must be done with material no larger than 3” x 4” channel. No excessive metal can be used for frame reinforcements. Hump plates not allowed on leaf spring conversion cars. b) Leaf spring conversion cars and factory leaf cars without hump plates are allowed 8 leaves per pack and must be OEM leafs. Springs must have a 2” stagger. Springs cannot be welded together. Four (4) spring clamps allowed per side. c) Cars originally equipped with leaf springs, must have stock springs and hangers if running hump plates. 21. Rear-ends can be of CAR origin or can be switched out to 8-lug single wheel rear-end. 22. Chain: You may run 1 chain around each side of the rear end and through the floorboard. 23. Steering System: You may alter your steering column to prevent loss and strengthen your tie rods as long as they function as stock. 24. NO added reinforcement from the core support to the firewall allowed. NO fender or core support reinforcement such as flat stock, angle iron, etc. 25. 03 AND NEWER FORD RULES: all crush zones must remain open and visible. Factory cradle from Ford car only mounted within 2” of factory position. Mandatory ¾” hole at firewall to fully inspect. Bolt in cradle allowed to same dimensions as factory 02 & older crown vic cradles. 26. Solid Suspension is allowed. Must attach directly below or above a-arm not kicked forward or backward to reinforce frame. A-arms can be welded solid with up to 2” straps and only may contact frame 2” beyond a-arm. 27. We strongly suggest that you have roll over protection for Safety!!!
PLEASE NOTE ALL RULES ARE SUBJECT TO CHANGE IN CASE WE MISS ANYTHING OR THERE ARE CLARIFICATIONS NEEDED.
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Route 1 Rumble
Heat Winner
2023 Route 1 Rumble - 7/29/23 @ 6:00 pm
Posts: 308
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Post by Route 1 Rumble on Jan 1, 2017 22:53:57 GMT -5
COMPACTS ***if there are more than 24 Compacts, we may run Heats***
A. Body 1. Remove all glass. 2. Cylinders must be removed on hood and hatch if applicable. 3. Secure hatchbacks or trunks with wire, chain, or welding. Remove rear deck lids on station wagons and hatchbacks if not steel (meaning fiberglass material) 4. Wire is to be #9 wire, unlimited amount (Use as much as you want because anyone can get it) 5. You may replace body mounts with all thread or bolts no bigger than 1”. 6. Car must have a pipe, wire, or plate from the cowl to the roof to prevent the hood from entering car. You may add one to the front & side windows. Sheet metal to sheet metal mounting only. Nothing to cage or rollover bar. 2 pieces in each window opening max. Max. Material is 4x1/4. This is for your safety, not to reinforce your car! 7. You may use wire, bolts, or all thread no bigger than 1” to secure hood. (all-thread nuts need a handle to open hood) 8. Front doors should be painted white to help us cut down on door hits. If your door is not white – don’t whine if we don’t see a door hit on your car. 9. Roof – In addition to the doors, the car must have the number on a roof sign on the roof of the car a minimum of 24” tall. No PROFANITY or OFFENSIVE material including numbers allowed on the car!!! This is a family show! 10. NO REINFORCEMENT anywhere on the car.
B. Drive Train 1. Maximum original wheelbase dimension is 105” center wheel to center wheel! A car may not run the race with a longer original factory wheelbase! No shortening of Frame to make it 105”. 2. Engine must be 4 or 6 cylinders only. (No V8’s) 3. NO 4x4 compact cars unless one driveshaft has been removed disabling that option. 4. No distributor protectors or pulley protectors or transmission saddles allowed. Engine cradles are allowed as long as they are not being used to strengthen frame in any way. 5. Distributor protectors only allowed on engines with distributor mounts in front of the motor 6. No 8-lug rear-ends/ No floater rear-ends allowed
C. Bumper 1. Bumper height must be within reason, normal heights in front and the back not dropped to the ground, at the decision of the official (Safety 1st) 2. You can use ANY factory bumper or bumper shock on ANY model car. 2 bumper shocks max per fame rail, one front & one rear only per side. There must be a minimum 6" gap between bumper shocks and a-arms/strut. You may manufacture your own bumper mounts within these limits (4” max material). If you make a "homemade pointy" you have to have it where it is the same dimensions as factory Chrysler pointy. We will have a template made from a fresh bumper. Anything that doesn't match factory dimensions will have to be cut. No small wedges allowed one's that looks like a wood splitting wedge. You are allowed 6” of the frame rail to mount your bumper with homemade components. Maximum homemade bumper height 6”. 6” maximum bumper material, 4” max material on bumper shocks, cannot be stacked. Your mounting is restricted to the rail only and can't bridge across frame rails. In addition to the weld &/or bolts, we also recommend either wiring or chaining the bumper to the frame. You may use a strap to help hold bumper on. It is to be no thicker than 1/4” and no wider than 3” and should not extend past 6” on top of the frame. Bumper strap to top or bottom of frame not both. No kickers from corner of bumper to frame. You are allowed to run a 1/4" spec bumper with a factory chrome skin covering it. Can be up to ¼” box tubing but must appear like a bumper! Minor “bumper only” reinforcement allowed to extend the life, but must be on the bumper only. No rear bumper brackets on the front of cars. Hard nosing allowed. You are allowed up to 24" of bumper to body welding with no fillers or plates. That is total for front and rear bumpers.
D. Driver Compartment 1. Remove stock gas tanks and put one in the back floor board, tightly secure, and cover. Gas Tank must be mounted inside the passenger compartment, tightly secured, and covered. Plastic tanks must be in a solid metal containment box & covered or you will not be allowed to participate, no exceptions. (We strongly recommend metal tanks!). Absolutely NO stock fuel lines. Secure new fuel line properly inside of the driver’s compartment, not underneath car. Keep away from exhaust. Gas tank protectors must be mounted to the cage or the floor pan, not both. Side bars must be at least 12” from the side sheet metal. Gas tank protector if on cage must be a "halo" type bar only, no gap required between protector and cage if floor mounted and not connected to sheet metal in any way (bolted or welded). Electric fuel pumps must be double clamped and covered. NO electronic fuel pumps without a full cutoff switch. 2. Move battery to inside the passenger compartment, tightly secure it, and cover it up. 3. MUST have a spreader bar behind the seat & must have driver door protection. Up to a 4” diameter Bar can be used 4. Cage must be at least a 4 point cage 5. No kickers or angled down tubes allowed 6. The cage must be contained inside the car 7. Spreader bar must be at least channel, square tubing, or pipe, no thin wall material! Spreader bar must be behind seat. 8. You may weld, wire, or chain doors shut. 9. UNLIMITED # 9 wire use. 11. If inspection holes are not adequate in frame rails, we will drill a 3/4” hole approx 4” ahead of the strut on outside of the frame.
E. Tires: No solid Tires (Hyster tires, etc.) Tires MUST contain some air.
Please review the normal Modified car rules and apply all of those rules THAT CAN BE APPLIED.
We strongly suggest that you have roll over protection for Safety!!!
PLEASE NOTE ALL RULES ARE SUBJECT TO CHANGE IN CASE WE MISS ANYTHING OR THERE ARE CLARIFICATIONS NEEDED.
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Route 1 Rumble
Heat Winner
2023 Route 1 Rumble - 7/29/23 @ 6:00 pm
Posts: 308
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Post by Route 1 Rumble on Jan 1, 2017 22:54:09 GMT -5
TRUCKS: ***if there are more than 24 Trucks, we may run Heats***
A. Any 2-wheel drive pickup, SUV ½ ton to 1 ton trucks, must be an OEM PICKUP TRUCK frame. No industrial style, straight C channel style frames will be allowed, and no dually wheels will be allowed. 4 x 4 Trucks or SUVs are allowed, however, one driveshaft must be removed so that the 4 wheel drive option is disabled.
B. PROTECTORS Distributor protectors allowed, NO radiator guards allowed (other than stock A.C. condenser), NO tranny protectors, or tranny case modifications. Also, NO rear-end bracing!!!
No PROFANITY or OFFENSIVE material including numbers allowed on the truck!!! This is a family show!
C. Frame 1. All seams can be welded, single-pass only. No pinning, plating, filling, stuffing or painting; other than what is allowed in our rules. must be an OEM PICKUP TRUCK frame. No industrial style, straight C channel style frames will be allowed
D. Drivetrain: 1. Any motor or transmission in any vehicle 2. Basic engine cradles only with pulley protector allowed, sway bar must be cut between frame to run pulley protector. 3. Skid plates allowed but can’t extend more than ½” from the pan they are protecting 4. Solid lower engine mounts are allowed 5. No transmission case modifications 6. Slider shafts are allowed 7. No rear-ends bigger than a 3500 series pickup. If running a dually rear-end, you may only run one wheel per side. No rear-end bracing
E. Suspension 1. Front suspensions may be converted from coil spring to leaf spring design. Keep the leaf springs mounts minimal. Do not use them to strengthen the frame. 2. Tie-rods can be welded up but no additional metal can be added 3. You may add 2 clamps in front of the axle and 3 behind the axle. Max of 2 bolts per clamp. Bolts can’t be bigger than 3/8” and clamps can only be 2” wide. No duct tape or welding on the springs. 4. Aftermarket steering shafts are allowed 5. Solid front suspensions are allowed but do not use this to strengthen the frame or you will need to cut it in order to run.
F. Body 1. Remove all glass. 2. All body bolts can be replaced and bolted solid with no bolts bigger than 1” You may use 1” all-thread in the core support and run it up through the hood. 4” x 4” maximum body mount washer size 3. Trucks should remain looking like trucks. Bedside must remain in the stock position. You may fold bedsides over from the wheel wells back and tailgate may be folded over. If you choose to do so, you may use 2 pieces of all thread on the frame behind the wheel wells to hold bedsides down or may be attached to bed floor with #9 wire. Must be a gap to see inside. Suburbans may be ‘sedagoned’. If you choose to “tuck” a suburban or other long roof vehicle, you may only attach the roof to quarter panels with #9 wire. You may not weld the roof down. You must have a hole measuring 12 x 12 inches in the roof for inspection. 4. You may weld, wire, or chain doors shut. The tailgate may be wired, bolted, or welded shut. The tailgate may be lowered half the height of the tailgate. Cab may be welded to bed (please do). 5. In addition to the 2 pieces of all-thread in the core support, you will be allowed 4 more bolts to hold the hood down. Must be body to body only and the washers must not exceed 4” x 4”. It must be body to body only. 6. No more than 10-3/8” bolts to hold your outer hood skin to your inner hood skin. 7. Wire is to be #9 wire, unlimited amount (Use as much as you want because anyone can get it) 8. Truck must have a pipe, wire, or plate from the cowl to the roof to prevent the hood from entering Truck. You may add one to the front & side windows. 2 pieces in each window opening max. Max. Material is 4x3/8”. This is for your safety, not to reinforce your truck! Driver’s Safety comes first. 9. NO REINFORCEMENT anywhere on the truck. 10. Five 3/8” bolts per wheel well. Hardware washers only. 11. If weight is added to the bed, it must be safe and non-reinforcing at the inspector’s discretion. 12. Roof - In addition to the doors, the truck must have the number on a roof sign on the roof of the truck a minimum of 24” tall. No PROFANITY or OFFENSIVE material including numbers allowed on the truck!!! This is a family show! 13. PRE-RAN TRUCKS may weld a plate/band-aid no bigger than 4”x 6” x 3/8” up to four (4) on a visible bend. There must be at least a 1-inch gap between plates. Must be flat plate. No angle iron, no bending plate to make angle or no C-channel may be used. If rear of truck is wedged, up to discretion of inspection crew to have you modify it for safety purposes.
G. Driver Compartment 1. Move battery to inside the cab, tightly secure it, and cover it up. You may use 2 automotive batteries or 1 large marine battery. 2. MUST have a spreader bar behind the seat & must have driver door protection. Up to a 4” diameter Bar can be used 3. CAGE *REQUIRED* Spreader bar must be at least channel, square tubing, or pipe, NO thin wall material! Truck must have REQUIRED door protection for driver. Minimum required 4 point cage. Front cage bar (dash bar) must be straight across front of truck and maintain the 6” gap to the distributor protector. You are allowed two down bars per side that may attach to the frame. Cage must go no further back than the front edge of the rear wheel humps. Down legs in rear must go to flat part of frame only. There may also be 1 rollover loop that can be attached to the bar behind the seat and go straight up over the exterior side of the roof. Cage may have 4 down legs, 3 spreader bars and 2 door bars. 4. No kickers or angled down tubes allowed 5. Spreader bar must be at least channel, square tubing, or pipe, no thin wall material! Spreader bar must be behind seat. 3 spreader bars total are allowed.
H. Radiator 1. Any type automotive radiator may be used but MUST be mounted in stock position. At driver’s option, he/she may compete without a radiator, but MUST run on water in the engine block only. NO RESERVE TANKS ARE ALLOWED.
I. Gas Tank 1. Gas Tank must be mounted in bed behind cab, tightly secured, and covered. Plastic tanks must be in a solid metal containment box & covered or you will not be allowed to participate. No exceptions. (We strongly recommend metal tanks!) Absolutely NO stock fuel lines. Secure new fuel line properly inside of the driver’s compartment, not underneath truck. Keep away from exhaust. Gas tank protectors must be mounted to the cage or the floor pan, not both and is not to extend more than 36 inches from the front of the bed, but can be full width of bed. Gas tank protector if on cage must be a "halo" type bar only, no gap required between protector and cage if floor mounted and not connected to sheet metal in any way (bolted or welded). Electric fuel pumps must be double clamped and covered. NO electronic fuel pumps without a full cutoff switch.
J. Bumper 1. Maximum front bumper height is 28” from the ground to the BOTTOM of the bumper. Back bumper minimum height is 20” from the ground to the BOTTOM of the bumper. 2. If you make a "homemade pointy" you have to have it where it is the same dimensions as factory Chrysler pointy. We will have a template made from a fresh bumper. Anything that doesn't match factory dimensions will have to be cut. No small wedges allowed one's that looks like a wood splitting wedge. 3. Bumpers may be plated on the inside and on the backing of the bumper. No sharp edges. 4. May weld up factory bumper brackets, or you may make homemade shocks but shocks can’t be bigger than 2” x 2” tubing. Your bumper brackets or shocks may not be welded, bolted, or modified to factory cross-member approx 10 inches behind the factory core support mount hole. K. Tires 1. No solid Tires (Hyster tires, etc.) Tires MUST contain some air.
Please review the normal Modified car rules and apply all of those rules THAT CAN BE APPLIED.
We strongly suggest that you have roll over protection for Safety!!!
PLEASE NOTE ALL RULES ARE SUBJECT TO CHANGE IN CASE WE MISS ANYTHING OR THERE ARE CLARIFICATIONS NEEDED.
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Route 1 Rumble
Heat Winner
2023 Route 1 Rumble - 7/29/23 @ 6:00 pm
Posts: 308
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Post by Route 1 Rumble on Jan 1, 2017 22:54:26 GMT -5
FWD CLASS ***if there are more than 24 FWD, we may run Heats***
-All compact and mid-size vehicles will follow the same safety rules and regulations listed in the general rule section.
105 1/16th” wheelbase and bigger will be in the mid-size class.
-MINIVANS will be allowed to participate in the mid-size class. No full framed vehicles or rear-wheel drives
-No mini trucks or V8 engines allowed
-Absolutely no engine/trans protectors, radiator protectors (other than a stock A.C. condenser), or any other homemade parts to make a vehicle stronger. You will be allowed a gas tank protector but it must not touch the firewall and no wider than 30 inches. If running a minivan your gas tank and/or gas tank protector may be no farther than 36” from the rear spreader bar at any point.
-All suspension must be factory make/model for the vehicle.
-4 point cage is strongly recommended. You may run 4 down legs to the body or the frame but these must remain in between the front door inner seams.
-You may replace the core support mounts with ¾” allthread and run them up through the hood. No sleeving is allowed. If your vehicle doesn’t have mounts, the allthread must be welded to the backside of the core support. You may also run 2 pieces of ¾” allthread through the trunk lid. They may be welded to the side of the frame. They must be placed on the flat part of the trunk pan and ran vertical.
-Doors and trunk lid may be welded solid with 4”x1/8” strap. No stacking or overlapping. Must have a 12” inspection hole in trunk lid!!! 1” hardware washers may be welded around the holes for the wire to pass through. Unlimited wire.
-Five 3/8” bolts with hardware washers only per wheel well.
-No more than ten 3/8” bolts to bolt the outer hood skin to the inner hood skin.
-Any O.E.M. bumper may be used and it may be loaded on the inside if you choose. Homemade Bumpers: You are allowed to run a 1/4" spec bumper. Can be up to 1/4" box tubing but must appear like a bumper! Minor “bumper only” reinforcement allowed to extend the life of the bumper. No rear brackets on front of cars
-Homemade bumper brackets are allowed but no bigger than 2”x2” tubing. You may not weld or bolt past 6” behind the factory core support mount hole. If your vehicle doesn’t have a core support mount we will measure from the vertical part of core support directly above the frame rail. We don’t want bumpers falling off!!
-Absolutely no welding besides what is stated in the rules.
-The only acceptable rust repair is for your feet, seat, gas tank, tranny cooler and battery box. Don’t get carried away or you won’t run!!
-Pre-rans will be allowed 4 plates on visible bends, 4”x6”x1/4” max size.
-All factory frame and body seams can be welded solid. Single pass and no added metal.*
-Front suspensions may be locked. If you need to weld strap to your frame in order to do so, keep it minimal. If we feel you are using it to strengthen your frame you will need to cut it in order to run
-In addition to the 2 pieces of allthread in the core support you will be allowed 4 more bolts to hold the hood down.
Unlimited Wire
Tires: No solid Tires (Hyster tires, etc.) Tires MUST contain some air
We strongly suggest that you have roll over protection for Safety!!!
PLEASE NOTE ALL RULES ARE SUBJECT TO CHANGE IN CASE WE MISS ANYTHING OR THERE ARE CLARIFICATIONS NEEDED.
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Route 1 Rumble
Heat Winner
2023 Route 1 Rumble - 7/29/23 @ 6:00 pm
Posts: 308
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Post by Route 1 Rumble on Jan 1, 2017 22:54:41 GMT -5
Old School Promotions Old School Class
Old School Class
Below you will find a list of options you have to build a car if you choose to alter the stock configurations. We absolutely will not work with a driver to get a car into the show. Do not read these rules trying to find grey areas and do not read between the lines because you are only setting yourself up to be pissed. We will enforce these rules very, very strictly and the Head Inspector’s say is final!
Absolutely no: distributor protectors, radiator guards (other than stock A.C. condenser) or tranny protectors.
Frames: -No seam welding, pinning, filling, stuffing or painting. -Rust holes may be covered with a 4 x 6 x ¼ inch plate. They will count towards your 4 allowed plates. -Pre-rans will be allowed 4 plates – 4 x 6x ¼ inch max. -No frame shaping other than 12 inches in the center of each hump. -Only allowed method of pitching is to cold bend. -You may #9 wire or chain the frame rails together behind the humps. No homemade washers.
Suspension: -Steering box swaps allowed. No welding on frame, keep mounts minimal. -Tie rods can be welded up, but no added metal or bracing. -A-arms and spindles may be changed, but must stay Ford to Ford or GM to GM. No homemade or aftermarket parts with the exception of 98 and newer Ford cars may do the Watts Link conversion with ZTR style brackets. No additional metal may be added other than the brackets themselves. -Aftermarket steering shafts allowed. -A-arms may be bolted down with one ½ inch bolt per a-arm. No homemade washers. -Rear trail arms can be shortened or lengthened but not braced. Single hardware washers may be welded around the rear hole of the upper trail arms. -Rearend may be chained or wired around the frame in one spot per side. -Factory size, number and stagger will apply to factory leaf spring cars. 5 clamps per side, 2 3/8 inch bolts per clamp. Clamps no wider than 2 inches. No welding of leafs.
Body Mounts: -Core support mounts may be replaced with up to 1 inch althread and ran through the hood. May be bolted solid or you may use a free-floating spacer. Spacers not to exceed 2x2 inch tubing. -4 rear body mounts can be bolted solid. 2 of those may have ¾ inch althread ran vertically through the trunk lid. Wagons may go through the roof or pillars, but if you do that don’t use 2 pieces to hold the tailgate shut. -Core support and trunk washers may not exceed 4x4 inches. -Mopars can either go through the frame or be welded to the side. Must be on the flat part of the rear frame under the trunk pan. -No double nutting or sleeving the althread. -Body mounts from firewall to the humps may be changed. Only in factory locations. Only allowable substitution is to use a bolt no bigger than ½ inch. Must have rubber bushing with steel sleeve or you may use a hockey puck. Hardware washers only on the mounts from firewall to humps.
Drivetrain: -Any motor or transmission in any vehicle. -Engine cradles are allowed, but must not go past the third spark plug from the front. All your basic Robbo, Big Rock, XXX cradles are allowed. -If you choose to run a pulley protector you must remove the sway bar between the frame rails. -Solid lower engine mounts are allowed. If you need to weld plates under your lower mounts because they won’t sit on the engine crossmember that’s fine, but they must not be attached to the frame rails. -If you choose to chain your engine in, the chains must only be attached to the engine and straight down to engine crossmember. -Skid plates must be just for the pan they are protecting and can’t extend more than ½ inch from their pan. -You may run an aluminum ultra bell on automatics. Manual transmissions may run a blow proof bell housing. No additional bolts or welding permitted. -If you choose to not run the factory transmission cross member you may use 2”x2” tubing instead. It must mount in factory make and model location. No plates bigger than 4”x4” welded to the frame to weld your cross member to!!! -If you’re using a bolt on style transmission mount, it must be an O.E.M. rubber mount. If you choose to not run a mount, you may w rap chain or wire around transmission and cross member to hold it in place. NO WELDING and only one bolt if you choose the wire or chain route. -If your car is factory equipped with a floating cross member (example: mid 70’s Fords and 74 and older Cadillacs) you may add TWO 5/8” bolts and bolt it solid to the floor. Washers cannot exceed 4”x4” diameter!!! This will be strictly enforced!! -Slider shafts are allowed. -Any factory car or truck rear end is allowed. No rear ends bigger than a 3500 series pickup permitted and only one wheel per side of rear end. You may weld brackets on the rear end to accommodate the vehicles factory suspension style. Rear end brace cannot go past inside edge of lower trail arm mount or inside edge of leaf spring pad.
Bumper/Bumper Mounting: -Homemade pointy bumpers must have tapered point that closely resembles Chrysler pointy bumper. -Bumpers may be plated on the inside and on the backing of the bumper. No sharp edges. -Any front bumper bracket may be used on any car. If you choose to, you may make your shocks out of 2”x2” tubing. -Absolutely no bracket or shock may be welded past 6 inches behind the factory core support mount hole on the frame rail. If your cars factory shock or bracket goes farther than 6 inches back, it must remain completely factory beyond the allotted 6 inches. -If you choose to hard nose or put your shock inside the frame you MUST have a ¾” hole in the top center of your frame 6 inches behind the factory core support mount hole on the frame rail. (unless we can clearly see the shock stops where it is supposed to). You may weld a ¾” hardware washer around the hole to make up for the missing metal. Single pass only! -Suicide Lincolns and cars that have no core support mount must only go 6 inches past the vertical part of core support right above the frame rail when mounting the bumper. -Rear bumper brackets may be welded, single pass only. Absolutely no rear bracket may be moved forward.
Cage: -4 point cages are allowed. Must be a minimum of 6 inches above the factory body mount height. -4 down legs are allowed to the frame, but must only be located in between the front door inner seams. -Down legs off of the cage that attach to the body must be no further back than the rear spreader and no further forward than the front door inner seam. -Roll over bars must be vertical and no further back than the rear spreader bar (maximum of 6 inches behind the seat). You will only be allowed to attach bar to roof with 2 bolts no bigger than 1 inch. Washers must not exceed 4”x4”. -Gas tank protectors are allowed but must remain 10 inches from the rear firewall and no more than 30 inches wide, and in the center of the car. It can be bolted to the floor if NOT attached to the cage.
Body: -Sheet metal may be cut for clearance, but no bending, folding or reattaching anywhere. -You may use five 3/8” bolts per wheel well opening. Hardware washers only. Absolutely no other bolting of the body other than the bolts allowed in the hood. -You’re allowed a maximum of 8 spots of double stranded #9 wire to hold hood and 8 spots of #9 wire to hold trunk lid down. You may weld a 1 inch hardware washer around each hole to keep from tearing. All wire must be body to body only. -Wagons tailgates may have 8 spots of double stranded #9 wire and 2 pieces of 3/4 althread, but the althread must be through the body only and NOT the frame. -The only acceptable rust repair on any car is allowed in the driver and passenger area. This is for safety purposes only, and if we think you used this to strengthen the car for anything other than safety purposes you will not be allowed to run. -Doors may be welded solid with strap no bigger than 4” x 1/8”. Tops of doors may be folded over and welded, but no added metal. Absolutely no other body seam welding besides doors!! -Hood and trunk lid must be open during inspection. -You may run double stranded #9 wire from quarter panel to quarter panel in trunk to keep the quarters from blowing apart. Single hardware washers may be welded around the holes. -No wedged cars allowed in Old School Class. -Sedagons will be allowed, but call for allowable tucking methods. -In addition to the 2 pieces of althread in the core support, you will be allowed 4 more bolts to hold the hood down. Must be body to body only and the washers must not exceed 4”x4”. Or you may use double stranded #9 wire in 8 spots. -No more than ten 3/8” bolts to hold your outer hood skin to your inner hood skin. -You will be allowed 4 spots of double stranded #9 wire from your hood/core support to your front bumper. -Body creasing is allowed, but absolutely no bolting or welding to assist.
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Route 1 Rumble
Heat Winner
2023 Route 1 Rumble - 7/29/23 @ 6:00 pm
Posts: 308
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Post by Route 1 Rumble on Jan 1, 2017 22:54:55 GMT -5
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Route 1 Rumble
Heat Winner
2023 Route 1 Rumble - 7/29/23 @ 6:00 pm
Posts: 308
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Post by Route 1 Rumble on Jan 1, 2017 22:55:08 GMT -5
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Phone: 217-343-3752 Facebook: www.facebook.com/josh.h.homann?fref=ts CHAD CLINELOLA'S DERBY PICS(Laura Butrum) www.facebook.com/LolaButrumShow Photography, Assistant & Sponsor of the Farthest Driver Award ZACHARY MORECRAFTSponsor of the "Junked Award" WABASH VALLEY ARMORY3203 S 7th Street Terre Haute, IN 47802 phone: (812) 917-4364 Facebook: www.facebook.com/wabashvalleyarmoryterrehaute?fref=nfDRAFT BUSTERS1201 Hietts Lane Paris, IL 61944 phone: (217) 463-6795 or (217) 251-6310 email: tparrasmith@msn.com BRAD YOUNG (Illini FS)ILLINI FS PROPANE - Chris Garner and Daniel Pearson ILLINI FS AGRONOMY ILLINI FS ENERGY DEPARTMENTUrbana, IL Q&K CONSTRUCTIONPhone: 217-712-0112 or 812-243-7555 MID AMERICA INSULATIONParis, IL 217-822-5905 or 217-251-0048 BLUE HERON STUDIOKathy Jo Drake Paris, IL phone: (217) 822-1787 email: blueheronstudio@midwestfirst.com DALBEY DESIGNS LLC
112 N Main Paris, IL phone: (217) 463-3911 facebook: www.facebook.com/DalbeyDesigns/email: dalbeydesignsllc@gmail.com WEEPING MANOR103 N Central Paris, IL phone: (217) 822-1787 GH GRAPHICSGeorge Hinote III Columbus, IN Phone: 765-230-7634 Facebook: www.facebook.com/ghgraphics89?fref=tsWebsite: junkittees.com/ ACCUFIT DENTAL
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& ADDITIONAL SPONSORS WHO WISH TO REMAIN ANONYMOUS
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Route 1 Rumble
Heat Winner
2023 Route 1 Rumble - 7/29/23 @ 6:00 pm
Posts: 308
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Post by Route 1 Rumble on Jan 1, 2017 22:55:29 GMT -5
SAVE
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Post by Rick Dodd on Jan 1, 2017 23:11:15 GMT -5
Please read over there has been changed in the rules...Not completely done yet but here is what we have...We will update and change anything that is needed changed with in a week..Please be patient with us..Main change is we are allowing any year Imperial in mod class...And adding a fwd midsize class that will have fwd mini vans allowed in with it...Kinda excited about this simple build fun class for beginners or guys that's wanting to have good time cheap....See you all in July
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Post by backwoodsboys707 on Jan 2, 2017 0:12:33 GMT -5
Are suis allowed too? I didnt see anywhere that it says there not...and in one spot it says fame pinning isnt allowed and then a little farther down it says it is? Other than those two questions rules seem good to me!! Hopefully i can get a car together and come run
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Post by Rick Dodd on Jan 2, 2017 0:27:25 GMT -5
Are suis allowed too? I didnt see anywhere that it says there not...and in one spot it says fame pinning isnt allowed and then a little farther down it says it is? Other than those two questions rules seem good to me!! Hopefully i can get a car together and come run Yes it's not in there because yes they are allowed...No sorry that was missed. No pinning that will be fixed and rest of rules done soon...Thanks for pointing that out
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Post by backwoodsboys707 on Jan 2, 2017 1:28:18 GMT -5
Hey no problem! Guess i need to start building haha
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gimp
Heat Winner
Posts: 664
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Post by gimp on Jan 3, 2017 18:41:19 GMT -5
So, no bump shock length in compact or midsize? Just can't weld or bolt it past 6" of the core support?
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Post by Rick Dodd on Jan 3, 2017 22:09:17 GMT -5
So, no bump shock length in compact or midsize? Just can't weld or bolt it past 6" of the core support? There must be a minimum 6" gap between bumper shocks and a-arms/strut.
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