Post by mecca on Aug 3, 2015 9:10:40 GMT -5
2nd Annual Hoosier Championship event page
Old School Promotions Facebook Page
General rules
-Any passenger car or station wagon may be entered in the Old School class with the following exceptions: No hearses, limo’s, four wheel drives, 1973 and older Chrysler Imperials, or vehicles using a 1973 and older Imperial sub frame. Truck class is limited to nothing bigger than a 3500 series pickup or S.U.V. If it’s a four wheel drive you may only run one driveshaft. Mid-size class is 105 1/16th” wheelbase and bigger and the compact class is 105” and smaller.
-All glass, plastic, chrome, lights, carpet, interior, and other fragile or flammable items must be removed before arriving at the track. Interiors and trunks must be swept clean.
-All rear seats and decking must be removed.
-All trailer hitches and bracing must be removed.
-Must have working seat belts securely attached to the car.
-Must have working brakes.
-Battery must be mounted securely and covered in the passenger compartment.
-Original gas tank must be removed and a fuel cell must be in place behind the front seat. It must be secured and covered to protect the driver and passenger.
-Fuel line must be relocated from the stock position and run entirely in the passenger area. Must be secured properly and have leak proof fittings.
-Electric fuel pumps allowed, but must have an ON/OFF switch mounted close to the steering column and easily accessible from outside of the vehicle.
-Radiators may be removed but not relocated. No reserve tanks or alterations to the cooling system.
-If you choose to run a transmission cooler outside of the radiator it must be securely mounted in a protected position with leak proof fittings.
-Two safety bars are required in the front windshield opening. Chain or #9 wire is acceptable, but must be securely fastened to the firewall and roofline only. They must be a minimum of 18 inches apart.
-Every vehicle must have a spreader bar no more than 6 inches behind the front seat. It must be bolted or welded in place.
-If running a roll over bar it must be vertical and no farther back than the rear spreader bar. It may be bolted to the roof with 2 one inch bolts and washers cannot exceed 4”x4” diameter. Trucks are the only exception to this rule; they may put the rollover bar in the very front part of the bed.
-Every vehicle must have a number clearly visible on the front doors.
-Absolutely no split rims, wheel weights, bead locks, or studded tires allowed. Solid and doubled tires are welcome, we don’t want flats.
-Doors must be secured with chain or #9 wire in 2 spots per seam. If you choose to weld them shut, they may be welded solid with no bigger than 4”x1/8” strap. Do not stack or overlap plate. If you try to extend the plate to make the car stronger in any way, it will be demanded that you cut the extended part completely off. This plate is just to keep the doors shut only!!
-Hoods must have a 12 inch hole in the center.
-Hood and trunk lid must be open at inspection for old school class. If your old school class car is a
pre-ran and bent too much to allow the trunk lid to be easily opened, we must be able to see the drip rails and have at least a 12 inch inspection hole in either the trunk lid or trunk floor in the center. Compact and mid-size must have a 12” inspection hole in center of trunk lid.
-The ONLY acceptable rust repair is in the driver/passenger area. This is for your feet, seat, gas tank, tranny cooler and battery only. So don’t get carried away!!! This must be for safety purposes only.
-At any point in time that we decide a vehicle is deemed unsafe we have the right to DQ the vehicle.
-Drivers must remain in their seats at all times while the derby is in progress. Failure to follow this rule can and will result in immediate disqualification.
Old School Class:
Below you will find a list of options you have to build a car if you choose to alter the stock configurations. We absolutely will not work with a driver to get a car into the show. Do not read these rules trying to find grey areas and do not read between the lines because you are only setting yourself up to be pissed. We will enforce these rules very, very strictly and the Head Inspector’s say is final!
Absolutely no: Distributor protectors, radiator guards (other than stock A.C. condenser), tranny protectors, or tranny case modifications. Also, absolutely no rear end bracing!!!
Frames:
-No seam welding, pinning, filling, stuffing or painting!!
-You may patch a rust hole on the frame but it cannot be bigger than 4”x6” and it will count as one of your 4 allowed plates. Must be able to verify it was needed.
-No frame shaping allowed other than 12 inches in the center of the hump. 6 inches in front of axle centerline and 6 inches behind. If you take it to the point of ripping or tearing the metal you will not be allowed to weld it back up. That’s your fault not ours.
-The only allowed method of pitching a car is to cold bend it, no exceptions!!
-Pre ran’s will be allowed 4 plates. Plates only allowed on a visible bend or rust hole and cannot be bigger than a 4”x6”x1/4”. If you go bigger be prepared to cut!!!
-You are allowed to #9 wire the frame rails together in one spot behind the humps. No more than triple stranded.
Bumper/Bumper Mounting:
-Homemade pointy bumpers must have a tapered point that closely resembles a Chrysler pointy bumper
-Bumpers may be plated on the inside and on the backing of the bumper. No sharp edges.
-Any front bumper bracket may be used on any car. If you choose to, you may make your shocks out of 2”x2” tubing.
-Absolutely no bracket or shock may be welded past 6 inches behind the factory core support mount hole on the frame rail. If your cars factory shock or bracket goes farther than 6 inches back, it must remain completely factory beyond the allotted 6 inches.
-If you choose to hard nose or put your shock inside the frame you MUST have a ¾” hole in the top center of your frame 6 inches behind the factory core support mount hole on the frame rail. (Unless we can clearly see the shock stops where it’s supposed to) You may weld a ¾” hardware washer around the hole to make up for the missing metal. Single pass only!!!
-Suicide Lincolns and cars that have no core support mount must only go 6 inches past the vertical part of core support right above the frame rail when mounting the bumper.
-Rear bumper brackets may be welded, single pass only. Absolutely no rear bracket may be moved forward.
Suspension:
- Everything must be factory make for the car. You may upgrade to stiffer/taller coil springs. A-arms and spindles may be changed but must stay Ford to Ford or GM to GM. No homemade or aftermarket parts. With one exception, 98 and newer ford cars, may do the watts link conversion with ZTR style brackets. No additional metal may be added other than the brackets themselves.
-Tie rods can be welded up, but no added metal or bracing.
-Steering box swaps are allowed, but absolutely no welding on the frame. Keep the mounts minimal. If we feel your using your steering box mount to strengthen frame you will not run.
-Aftermarket steering shafts allowed.
-Cars must bounce.
-Rear trail arms cannot be shortened, lengthened, or braced in any way whatsoever. You may weld a single hardware washer around the rear hole of the upper control arms. Single pass only!!
-Rear end may be chained or wired in one spot per frame rail. Must be straight over the center of the axle and NOT welded to the frame.
-Factory size, number and stagger will apply to cars with factory leaf springs. You may add 2 clamps in front of rear axle and 3 in rear. Max of 2 bolts per clamp. Bolts can’t be bigger 3/8” and clamps can only be 2 inches wide. No welding or duct taping of springs.
Drivetrain:
-Any motor or transmission in any vehicle.
-Engine cradles are allowed, but must not go past the third spark plug from the front. All your basic Robbo, Big Rock, XXX cradles are allowed.
-If you choose to run a pulley protector, you must remove the sway bar between the frame rails.
-Solid lower engine mounts are allowed. If you need to weld plates under your lower mounts because they won’t sit on the engine crossmember that’s fine, but they must not be attached to the frame rails.
-If you choose to chain your engine in, the chains must only be attached to the engine and straight down to engine cross member.
-Skid plates must be just for the pan they are protecting and can’t extend more than a ½” from there pan.
-Absolutely no transmission case modifications. Cases must remain entirely factory O.E.M. Manual transmissions may run a blow proof bell housing.
-If you choose to not run the factory transmission cross member you may use 2”x2” tubing instead. It must mount in factory make and model location. No plates bigger than 4”x4” welded to the frame to weld your cross member to!!!
-If you’re using a bolt on style transmission mount, it must be an O.E.M. rubber mount. If you choose to not run a mount you may wrap chain or wire around transmission and cross member to hold it in place. NO WELDING and only one bolt if you choose the wire or chain route.
-If your car is factory equipped with a floating cross member (example: mid 70’s Fords and 74 and older Cadillacs) you may add TWO 5/8” bolts and bolt it solid to floor. Washers cannot exceed 4”x4” diameter!!! This will be extremely strictly enforced!!!
-Slider shafts are allowed.
-Any factory car or truck rear end is allowed. No rear-ends bigger than a 3500 series pickup permitted and only one wheel per side of rear end. You may weld brackets on the rear end to accommodate the vehicles factory suspension style. No rear end bracing allowed!!! When building brackets for the upper ears you may not go any wider than 16 inches from center on either side to mount the upper ears. (So 32” total mount area) This will cover any cars rear upper trail arms, and eliminate any discussion on whether it’s considered a brace more than a justifiable mount.
Cage:
-4 point cages are allowed. Must be a minimum of 6 inches above the factory body mount height.
-4 down legs are allowed to the body or the frame, but must only be located in between the front door inner seams.
-Roll over bars must be vertical and no farther back than the rear spreader bar (maximum of 6 inches behind the seat). You will only be allowed to attach bar to roof with 2 bolts no bigger than 1 inch. Washers must not exceed 4”x4”.
-Gas tank protectors are allowed but must remain 10 inches from the rear firewall and no more than 30 inches wide, and in the center of the car. It can be bolted to the floor if NOT attached to the cage.
Body Mounts:
-You may replace the 2 body mounts in the core support and the 4 in the trunk pan only!!
-The 2 in the core support may be replaced with 1 inch althread and ran up through the hood. They may be bolted solid. If you choose to run a spacer between core support and frame it can’t be bigger than 2”x2” tubing and must be free floating.
-The 4 rear body mounts can be bolted solid. 2 of those may have ¾ inch althread ran vertically through the trunk lid. (Wagons may go vertically through the roof or pillars, but if you do that you may not use 2 pieces to hold the tailgate shut)
-You may weld a 4”x4” washer on top of the core support for the althread to pass through.
-No double nutting or sleeving of the althread.
-Mopars can either go through the frame or welded to the side. Must be on the flat part of the rear frame under the trunk pan.
- All body mounts washers may not exceed 4”x4” diameter.
-Body mounts from the firewall to the humps may be changed if need be. Only in the factory locations. The ONLY allowable substitution is to use a bolt no bigger than ½”. You must have the rubber bushing WITH the steel sleeve and NOT be crushed. You must use hardware washers only. NO homemade washers!*
Body:
-Sheet metal may be cut for clearance, but no bending, folding or reattaching anywhere.
-You may use five 3/8” bolts per wheel well opening. Hardware washers only. Absolutely no other bolting of the body other than the bolts allowed in the hood.
-You’re allowed a maximum of 8 spots of double stranded #9 wire to hold hood and 8 spots of double stranded #9 wire to hold trunk lid down. You may weld a 1 inch hardware washer around each hole to keep from tearing. All wire must be body to body only.
-Wagon tailgates may have 8 spots of double stranded 9 wire and 2 pieces of ¾ althread, but the althread must be through the body only and NOT the frame.
-The only acceptable rust repair on any car is allowed in the driver and passenger area. This is for safety purposes only, and if we think you used this to strengthen the car for anything other than safety purposes you will not be allowed to run.
-Doors may be welded solid with strap no bigger than 4”x1/8”. Tops of doors may be folded over and welded but no added metal. Absolutely no other body seam welding beside doors!!!
-Hood and trunk lid must be open during inspection.
-You may run double stranded number 9 wire from quarter panel to quarter panel in trunk to keep the quarters from blowing apart. Single hardware washers may be welded around holes only.
-No wedged cars allowed in old school class.
-Sedagons will be allowed but call for allowable tucking methods.
-In addition to the 2 pieces of althread in the core support you will be allowed 4 more bolts to hold the hood down. Must be body to body only and the washers must not exceed 4”x4”. Or you may use double stranded #9 wire in 8 spots. It must be body to body only.
-No more than ten 3/8” bolts to hold your outer hood skin to your inner hood skin.
-You will be allowed 4 spots of double stranded #9 wire from your hood/core support to your front bumper.
-Body creasing is allowed, but absolutely no bolting or welding to assist.
Compacts & Midsize:
-All compact and mid-size vehicles will follow the same safety rules and regulations listed in the general rule section.
-105” wheel base and smaller will be in the compact class. 105 1/16th” wheelbase and bigger will be in the mid-size class. NO EXCEPTIONS!!!
-Minivans will be allowed to participate in the mid-size class. No full framed vehicles in either class.
-No mini trucks or V8 engines allowed in compact or mid-size class.
Below you will find the list of options you have to build a car, if you choose to alter the stock configurations. We absolutely will not work with a driver to get a car into the show. Do not read these rules trying to find grey areas and do not read between the lines because you are only setting yourself up to be pissed. We will enforce these rules very, very strictly and the Head Inspector’s say is final!
-Absolutely no engine/trans protectors, radiator protectors (other than a stock A.C. condenser, or any other homemade parts to make a vehicle stronger. You will be allowed a gas tank protector but it must not touch the firewall and no wider than 30 inches. If running a minivan your gas tank and/or gas tank protector may be no farther than 36” from the rear spreader bar at any point.
-All suspension must be factory make/model for the vehicle.
-4 point cage is strongly recommended. You may run 4 downlegs to the body or the frame but these must remain in between the front door inner seams.
-You may replace the core support mounts with ¾” althread and run them up through the hood. No sleeving is allowed. If your vehicle doesn’t have mounts, the althread must be welded to the backside of the core support. You may also run 2 pieces of ¾” althread through the trunk lid. They may be welded to the side of the frame. They must be placed on the flat part of the trunk pan and ran vertical.
-Doors and trunk lid may be welded solid with 4”x1/8” strap. No stacking or overlapping. Must have a 12” inspection hole in trunk lid!!! If you choose not to weld trunk you may use 8 double stranded spots of #9 wire but must be body to body only. Hoods may have 8 spots of double stranded 9 wire. 1” hardware washers may be welded around the holes for the wire to pass through.
-Five 3/8” bolts with hardware washers only per wheel well.
-No more than ten 3/8” bolts to bolt the outer hood skin to the inner hood skin.
-Any O.E.M. bumper may be used and it may be loaded on the inside if you choose.
-Homemade bumper brackets are allowed but no bigger than 2”x2” tubing. You may not weld or bolt past 6” behind the factory core support mount hole. If your vehicle doesn’t have a core support mount we will measure from the vertical part of core support directly above the frame rail. We don’t want bumpers falling off!!
-Absolutely no welding besides what is stated in the rules.
-The only acceptable rust repair is for your feet, seat, gas tank, tranny cooler and battery box. Don’t get carried away or you won’t run!!
-Pre-rans will be allowed 4 plates on visible bends, 4”x6”x1/4” max size.
-All factory frame and body seams can be welded solid. Single pass and no added metal.*
-Front suspensions may be locked. If you need to weld strap to your frame in order to do so, keep it minimal. If we feel you are using it to strengthen your frame you will need to cut it in order to run.
-In addition to the 2 pieces of althread in the core support you will be allowed 4 more bolts to hold the hood down. Must be body to body only and the washers must not exceed 4”x4”. Or you may use double stranded #9 wire in 8 spots. It must be body to body only.
-You may also run double stranded #9 wire from the front bumper to the hood or core support in 4 places only.
Trucks:
Trucks will follow all safety rules and regulations posted in the General Rules section.
Below you will find a list of the options you have to build a truck if you choose to alter the stock configurations. We absolutely will not work with a driver to get a truck into the show. Do not read these rules trying to find grey areas and do not read between the lines because you are only setting yourself up to be pissed. We will enforce these rules very, very strictly and the Head Inspector’s say is final!
Absolutely no: Distributor protectors, radiator guards (other than stock A.C. condenser), tranny protectors, or tranny case modifications. Also, absolutely no rear end bracing!!!
Frame:
-No pinning, plating, filling, stuffing or painting; other than what is allowed in our rules.
-Frame may be seam welded. Single pass only.
-Pre-rans are allowed 4 plates. Plates are only allowed on a visible bend and cannot be bigger than 4”x8” max.
Bumper/Bumper Mounting:
-Homemade pointy bumpers must have a tapered point that closely resembles a Chrysler pointy bumper
-Bumpers may be plated on the inside and on the backing of the bumper. No sharp edges.
-Any front bumper bracket may be used on any truck. If you choose to, you may make your shocks out of 2”x2” tubing.
-Absolutely no bracket or shock may be welded past 6 inches behind the factory core support mount hole on the frame rail. If your trucks factory shock or bracket goes farther than 6 inches back, it must remain completely factory beyond the allotted 6 inches.
-Bumper height is a maximum of 28 inches to the bottom of the front bumper and a minimum of 18 inches to the bottom of the rear bumper.
Suspension:
-Front suspensions may be converted from coil spring design to leaf spring design. Keep the leaf springs mounts minimal. Do not use them to strengthen the frame.
-Tie rods can be welded up but no additional metal can be added.
-You may add 2 clamps in front of the axle and 3 behind the axle. Max of 2 bolts per clamp. Bolts can’t be bigger than 3/8” and clamps can only be 2” wide. No duct tape or welding on the springs.
-Aftermarket steering shafts are allowed.
-Solid front suspensions are allowed but do not use this to strengthen the frame or you will need to cut it in order to run.
Drivetrain:
-Any motor or transmission in any vehicle.
-Pulley protectors allowed but the sway bar must be removed if there is a possibility of it coming in contact with the pulley protector.
-Skid plates allowed but can’t extend more than a ½” from the pan they are protecting.
-Solid lower engine mounts are allowed.
-No transmission case modifications.
-Slider shafts are allowed.
-No rear ends bigger than a 3500 series pickup. If running a dually rear end you may only run one wheel per side. No rear end bracing.
Cage:
-4 point cage allowed and highly recommended.
-Gas tank protectors allowed and is not to extend more than 36 inches from the front of the bed, but can be full width of the bed.
Body:
-Doors may be welded solid and cab can be welded to bed. (please do both!!!)
-All body bolts can be replaced and bolted solid with no bolts bigger than ¾”. Only exception is you may use 1” althread in the core support and run it up through the hood. 4”x4” maximum body mount washer size.
-In addition to the 2 pieces of althread in the core support, you will be allowed 4 more bolts to hold the hood down. Must be body to body only and the washers must not exceed 4”x4”. Or you may use double stranded #9 wire in 8 spots. It must be body to body only.
-You may also run double stranded #9 wire from the front bumper to the hood or core support in 4 places only.*
-No more than 10 3/8” bolts to hold your outer hood skin to your inner hood skin.
-Tailgates may be welded solid.
-You may fold bedsides over from the wheel wells back and tailgate may be folded over. If you choose to do so it may only be attached to bed floor with 8 double strands of number 9 wire.
-If you choose to “tuck” a suburban or other long roof vehicle you may only attach the roof to quarter panels with 8 spots of double stranded 9 wire. Body to body only!!
-Five 3/8” bolts per wheel well. Hardware washers only.
-The only acceptable rust repair is in the cab floor and front of bed where gas tank mounts. This is for safety purposes only. If you don’t follow this you simply will not run.
Powerwheels:
-Ages 4-9
-Pit passes must be purchased, but no extra charge for entry.
-All participants will receive a trophy.
-Battery may be replaced with a single 12 volt lawn mower battery only. May be relocated but must be covered.
-Doors and hoods may be secured shut with bungee cords or rope (not required).
-Must sit just like it did when it was new. No larger or smaller tires may be substituted.
-Helmet is mandatory.
-Absolutely NO motorcycle, tractor, or 3 wheeler type powerwheels.
Read more: we-crash.proboards.com/thread/58016/parke-county-demolition-derby-rockville#ixzz3hlAzC3Px
