Mt Gilead, OH Sept 7th @ 5:00 p.m......Other rules Added

[Bonestock79]

Morrow County Fair


Sept 7th, 2015 @ 5:00 p.m. Demolition Derby


Full Size Build Class Rules


1. Any hard top Foreign or Domestic automobile or station wagon is allowed with the following exceptions: No Chrysler Imperials before 1967. No convertibles, ambulances, hearses or limos. Cars with a wheel base of over 108” and a 6 or 8 cylinder engine.


PREPARATION OF CARS

1.Car number: It is mandatory that your car number be put on a roof sign on top of your car. Signs must be at least 12” tall and max 24” long. Sign must be welded or bolted to roof in at least 4 places. Number on door is no longer necessary.


2.Remove: all glass, head and tail lights, and clean inside of car and trunk before arrival at fairgrounds. This applies to metal parts, trash, screws, nails, nuts, bolts and glass. Broken glass inside doors is not permitted. Chrome molding strips, side-view mirrors, protruding outside door handles and emblems must be removed. All rear seats must be removed, including third seat and deck plates in station wagons.



FRAME & BUMPERS

1.Hitches and braces must be removed. No adding of plate, pinning, heat treating, or stuffing the frame in any way. Do not paint the frame.

No Frame welds can exceed a single pass 3/8” no weave and no build up welds permitted.

2.No frame creasing or reshaping to add strength in any way permitted. You can notch or crease rear frame to help in the rear of car roll not to strengthen the frame. Frame welding is limited to front and rear bumper areas top side of frame seams from the firewall forward may be welded with a single 3/8” bead of weld no weave welds. Excessive welds will be cut and removed. On 79 and older cars you may square off the front frame rail to hard nose the car but no shortening of the frame is permitted. All unused bolts must be removed from frame.


3.Any year bumper factory to a car is permitted. All bumper seams may be welded; only FRONT bumper may be loaded. Front and back bumper skins are required, No homemade bumpers with exception to DEC comparable replacement bumpers are permitted. All added metal to the FRONT bumper must be added to the inside only. No spacers permitted between the front bumper and the frame. Bumpers may be 8“ from top to bottom and 8“ from front to back. The bumper on the REAR of the car must be factory (DEC bumpers permitted) no adding of metal to bumper on rear of car will be permitted. Openings in bumper may be closed. You may use ¼" X 2” X 6” plate to weld from bumper to frame 2 per bumper mounting location. Bumper shocks must appear stock and be round pipe or factory shock no square tubing will be permitted for shocks and may not be further than 10" inside of frame and be no bigger than 2 inches in diameter. You may weld shocks to the frame you can cut factory frame seam open and weld to shock no creating extra seams on top or bottom of frame permitted. You cannot cut open top or side of frame to put shock in the frame. If replacing shock with pipe the pipe must remain straight and no contouring with the frame.


4.On the front frame they must be 25" from front of coil pockets on bottom of frame to end of the frame the bumper cannot slide over the frame. If a frame section needs to be replaced or repaired (rust) you must call first. If the frame has damage in the back 2 body bolts may be moved no more than 6" from factory location. Pre-ran cars if the frame is shortened in the rear and bumper replaced the bumper shocks cannot be located closer than 6" from hump plate.


5.Pre-run cars only; Maximum of 2 fix it plates allowed, 3” x 5” x ¼” max in size. There MUST be signs of damage, kinks, rips, tears to the frame or the fix it plate will be removed completely. No painting of the frame.


6.Angles for cross member supports can be 3”x3” x 5" long max. Cross member must mount to frame only and in factory location.


7.Body bolts and washers may be changed (1" dia. Bolt max, 3" washer max.) Must start and stop in stock location 8. Bumper cannot be lower than 14" or higher than 24" from bottom of bumper. Frame may not be lower than 14".


9.For coil sprung cars you may use a hump plate they may be ¼" X 6" X 22" centered in the hump they will be measured from the top center of the hump and must start no lower than half way down on the frame. Hump plate must be at least 2" from rear end. On 80s style GM's you may use a ¼ " X 6" X 30" hump plate to be measured the same way. Leaf spring cars you may use a ¼" X 6" X 11" hump plate to be measured the same way. These hump plates may contour the frame or run straight across hump. Hump plate must remain flat plate no bending over the frame.


10.You may re-clip frames on pre-ran cars with a single butt weld and no additional metal added. The frame must be the same make and model. IE: Ford to Ford, GM to GM. Fords cannot clip 02 and older with any 03 and newer frame no exceptions or vice versa.



11 You may cut factory seams at the box or firewall frame seams and re-weld to tilt the front. No metal may be added. All factory holes in frame must remain open no welding these holes shut permitted.



12. On 2003 and newer Fords you may use an 80 and newer ford or GM car steel cradles they must be put in like there factory equivalents and only using the factory brackets no other metal may be added. A-arm brackets must be 98 and newer Ford brackets only. They must be in factory location and cannot be moved forward. You may use a 3" spacer from the bottom of the frame to lower A-arm where the spring seats. No altering the frame in any manner other than attaching factory brackets with a single bead of weld. You cannot add any type of spring pockets to frame. All factory holes in front of A-arms must be open. Nothing may be welded on top of frame over the holes in front of frame. On 2003 and newer Fords you cannot shorten the front of the frames. A-arms must be 7 ½” behind the rear factory holes in frame in the front to the front edge of A-arms (The factory cruse point) A-arms must be from passenger car no truck or van A-arms permitted.




BODY / CAGE

1.Two 8" X 8" inspection holes must be put in all deck lids one on each side of deck lid within 2" of trunk strapping in center of trunk. Trunk lids must be factory for make and model of car IE: GM to GM ford to ford no pre 1980 deck lids permitted on 80 and newer cars.


2.You may weld, wire, or bolt doors, trunk lids, and or tailgates. If you wire you may use 8 double strands of #9 wire and all may go around bumper or frame. Strapping used for welding may not be stair stepped or layered. Strapping may be ¼” x 3" flat stock maximum. Tops of door skins may be rolled and welded using same ¼” X 3” flat stock. Trunk lids may have two 1" pieces of all thread that must extend to the frame. T from the floor pan to the trunk lid and allowed to be welded no more than ½ way down the side of frame and must be straight up and down. All thread must extend frame to trunk lid. Wagons these may go from the floor pan to rear roof pillars not the roof. You may add (4) 3/8” bolts per wheel well these bolts can be in wheel well only.


3.No body seam welding will be permitted. Doors can be welded on outside of body only. On pre-ran cars the doors may be repaired back to stock. Rust repair is limited to floor boards and roofs only.


4.You may have a window bar or wire in windshield and rear window if using metal it can be no thicker than 3/8" and no wider than 3". You may use 2 x 2 pipe and not solid. These may not touch the rollover bar. They can be welded to roof no more than 6" from the window area. Welded to deck lid no more than 6"at the rear window area Metal used for this may not exceed 6" in length on roof or deck lid. You can have a bar from the dash bar to the roll over bar but must be 5” from the fire wall.


5.You may have 6 bolts on the hood to keep it secure; bolts may be 1" in dia. The front 2 may go all the way through core support You may use a ¼” X 2” x 2” spacer through the core support this may be welded to top of frame and top and bottom of core support only these may not be lower than top of frame. You may also use a 4" x 4" x ¼ plate to weld to top side of frame on the front two body mounts these can weld no farther than 2" on the frame behind the body mount bolts. 1" bolts max.


6.Hoods must be open for inspection. (12" x 12" hole over carburetor) Cars may not be smashed flat If cars are tucked the rear quarter panels on both sides of cars must be 6" higher than the top of the bumper If speaker deck is removed deck lid can attach to package tray they must remain within 2“ of rear of package tray ( behind body bolts on new style fords).


7.Body mounts must remain in place or a 1" gap between body and frame with a stack of washers or spacer of some kind may be used nothing bigger than 3" x 3" permitted NO EXCEPTIONS cars without a space will not be permitted to run. 1” body bolts max. must start and stop in factory location. All body mounts must be in stock location.


8.You can add a piece of angle (4" x 4" x ¼"max.) to top of the core support but can be no longer than 32" no other metal permitted on core support. No other metal permitted to be welded to core support.


9.You may have a cage surrounding the drivers compartment with a roll over bar. Bars 6" diameter max must be sheet metal to sheet metal only. The dash bar must be 5" from all sheet metal. The bar behind the seat can sit no further back than where the kick panel meets the bench seat and must be at least 5" off the floor measured from the highest part of the floor/driveshaft tunnel. No cage components can be farther back than where the kick panel meets the bench seat. Roll over bar and rear down legs are cage components. No center bar in cages. 2 down legs to the frame from the rear bar down to frame and must run straight down no angling. You may use a floating gas tank protector that comes off the back bar but it cannot be wider than 24". The gas tank protector/holder may go all the way back to the sheet metal. Can be welded or bolted to rear sheet metal or package tray with 2 - ½ " X 4“ bolts or 2 -- 3" welds to the sheet metal.



ENGINE / TRANSMISSION


1. Engines may be chained in with 1 chain per side with standard 3/8" chain max. Chains no longer than 16" and no more than 2 chain links may be welded to the engine cradle. No chains permitted to be welded to the frame. Motor of choice is permitted. Distributor protectors are allowed, nothing that attaches to engine any wider than the stacks used for strengthening the car. IE: Dist Protector, engine cradles, ect. 2. Transmissions must be of passenger car origin, transmission coolers may be used, but they must be secured in such a way to prevent injury. Metal or braided lines must be used. No fuel or low-pressure lines may be used. Coolers must be secured in a container in the passenger compartment of the car.

3.Transmission protectors are allowed. They may not attach or brace to the cross member, frame, or any part of the cage components Trans blanket is recommended. OEM transmission cross member or 2” x 2” x ¼” tube . Cross member must be mounted with at least a 2” space from all transmission protector components including shifter plate. Skid plates are allowed. They may be one piece from engine to transmission. They may not extend forward past oil pan or rearward past the transmission pan. Don’t connect to transmission cross member. There must be 2” space. No bolting or welding the skid plate to the frame.


4.No water cooler tanks or overflow bottles permitted. Must use factory OEM style radiators.



SUSPENSION


1. You may modify tie rods. Valve stem protectors are permitted. A-arms must remain in stock configuration. Any rubber tire permitted. Rear trailing arms may be Home made No bigger than 2 x 2 square tubing or pipe and must mount to a package tray like factory. Doubling of tires permitted. Bead locks are permitted no bigger than 21” diameter.


2.Upper A arms may be welded down by folding down the A-arm and welding to the frame with no extra metal added or you may use a ¼” x 2” x 2” strap on the front and back side of upper A-arm and plug weld the center of the A-arm Do not weld the A-arm to the factory mounting brackets. Lower A-arms may not be welded. You can change out the new style A-arms for old style.


3.Coil springs in rear may be welded wired or chained to rear end. No coil to leaf conversions allowed.


4.You may use rear end of choice. Rear end protectors may be used but may not be used to strengthen car in any way and must be on back of rear end. Leaf spring cars may replace broken springs with factory ¼ " leaf springs only. No more than 7 springs allowed and must have a 2" stagger and mounted in factory location


5.Idler arm must be bolted factory to frame no bolts will be permitted all the way through the frame. Sway bar may be welded to bottom of frame in the factory location you may use a 1 ½ " X 4” bracket or a 2" square tubing or pipe to weld to sway bar to attach to frame.


6.Upper and lower A Arms must be factory passenger car type no homemade ones will be permitted.


7.Any Watts style rear suspension links not being utilized must be removed.


8.Rear shocks may be replaced with 1" max all thread. It can be attached to rear-end and travel through package tray. Bumper height requirements must still be met. All-thread cannot be welded or mounted to side frame rails.


***** IF YOU HAMMER / SHAPE / WELD ON FRAME IN ANY MANNER NOT COVERED IN THE RULES YOU WILL NOT BE ABLE TO RUN THERE IS NO FIXING THIS****


IF YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS CONTACT AN OFFICIAL - OFFICIALS HAVE THE FINAL DECISION ON ALL RULES!


If it does not say it within the rules it does not mean you are allowed to do it. If in doubt, call first. For rules questions please contact


Bryan Mullins ( 419-631-1233 / [e-mail] ) or Earl Kidwell ( 419-618-7339 / [e-mail] )

[Bonestock79]

To help with getting the rules out, I have transferred them here to Wecrash. We will also be using the same rules for Delaware, and those will be posted to their own thread shortly. Thank you for your patience and we all hope to make the 2015 season one to remember. Any questions or concerns feel free to contact Bryan or myself.

Thank you

[dc1010]

Might be down to watch

[B12 Racing]

Thank you for posting rules, Earl.

Another note, have one order in for the Hatfield decals posted in the Richland Co. thread. Putting in an order for 30+ more. Can come in whatever color you wish but I am trying to get 50/50 on white & purple. Let me know if you are interested. They are $9 a piece and currently I am just taking donations for them which will be put towards a good cause in August. Thanks.

[derbyz55]

Earl,
Any idea what the other classes are going to be? Just curious

[Bonestock79]

All the usual classes that I know of and maybe a passenger class Brian. Don't think they talked them into a youth heat.

Passenger class ? ? ?
Stock class
Compact
midsized
Build class

[Bonestock79]

2015 Morrow County Fair


September 7th, 2015 @ 5:00 p.m. Demolition Derby 5:00pm



Compacts and Mid-Size Rules

1.Driver must be registered and vehicle must be inspected 1 hour prior to start time of show or a $25 late fee will be imposed.


2.All classes will be run as single heat/feature events (one shot deals) down to the car making last aggressive contact. Prize money and trophies will be awarded to the top 3 finishers.


3.Drivers are responsible for the actions of their crew members. Any driver or pit person found under the influence of alcohol, drugs or becomes unruly will be disqualified and removed from the grounds. They could be barred from future events.


4.No profanity will be allowed on any portion of the car. Please remember, THIS IS A FAMILY EVENT.!!!


5.All rules are subject to change and the Officials have the FINAL say. It is impossible to list everything that you can and cannot do. We realize that rules will be bent, stretched, pushed to the max and tested with new ideas. Weather any stipulations or variations to these rules are allowed or not is the Officials decision, AND IT IS FINAL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!



TYPES OF CARS

1.Any hard top Foreign or Domestic automobile or station wagon is allowed.


2.Compact Class: Cars with a wheel base of 103” or less & a 4 cylinder engine only.


3.Mid-size Class: Cars with a wheel base of 109” or less rear wheel drive, 110” or less front wheel. 4 or 6 cylinder engine only.



Youth Heat Cars Only

1.All Youth Heats to follow mid-size rules and build specifications.


2.A. Youth class is limited to kids 12-15 years old without a driver's license.


3.A notarized parental consent form must be filled out or you will not be allowed to participate. One parent must be present with valid ID. A notary will be present to notarize the entry forms.

                                                                                                                                                              

4.An adult must ride with the driver. No exceptions. This is for instructional purposes as well as safety.


5.Youth driver will be tested on the operation of car at inspection line. DO NOT wait the day of the show to put your kid in the car for their first time.


6.There will be a separate driver's meeting for youth drivers and their passengers to review the rules are known by both.



PREPARATION OF CARS

1.Car number: It is mandatory that your car number be put on a roof sign on top of your car. Signs must be at least 12” tall and max.
24” long. Sign must be welded or bolted to roof in at least 4 places. Number on door is no longer necessary.


2.Remove: all glass, head and tail lights, and clean inside of car and trunk before arrival at fairgrounds. This applies to
metal parts, trash, screws, nails, nuts, bolts and glass. Broken glass inside doors is not permitted. Chrome molding strips, side-view mirrors, protruding outside door handles and emblems must be removed. All rear seats must be removed, including third seat and deck plates in station wagons. All air bags and activation charges must be removed.


3.Drivers door: May be welded shut and re-enforced (inside & out). Only flat plating may be used to reinforce the outside it cannot exceed 6” past driver’s door vertical seams. It is mandatory that it be reinforced on all compacts. You should also leave the inside driver’s door panel on or replace with padding for drivers safety. If not, all sharp edges must be covered or removed.


4.Drivers Area: Angle iron, square tubing or steel bar can be used to brace the rear of the driver’s seat, door post to door post. You may also use one in place of the dash. Plates on end of these 2 bars not to exceed 12”x12”. They may be connected by using same across both front doors to form a rectangular safety zone. Door bars cannot extend pass dash and seat bar. Four, straight down kickers may be run from the corners to the floor only. No angling (tilting) of the kickers or attaching to the frame. No roll cages inside car. Bars or pipes used should be no more than 4” outside diameter. Seat brace must be within 4” of the seat back and measured ¾ of the way up. A roll over bar can be welded behind the seat and run straight up (no tilting) and over the roof. Strongly recommended for 4 doors with no center door post or for cars with weak roofs.


5.Passenger Door's: may be welded all around, outside only. If plating/strapping is used it cannot be more than 3” wide and ¼ thick. Doors that are not welded may be wired or chained.


6.Frame and frame seams: You are allowed to weld front frame seams from firewall forward only. No other frame seam welding. Damaged or rusted frame areas may be repaired with metal no thicker than original thickness. Patch cannot be any larger than necessary to attach to good metal in all directions. This also applies to repairing frame damage on previously run cars. Damage must be obvious and repair necessary or it will not be allowed. Dimples and puckering of fame do not constitute damage. It would need to be split, broken or rusted through. Maximum of 4 patched areas for damage is allowed per car. No trailer hitches. If in doubt, call for prior approval or to see what an Official might suggest.


7.Tires: Solids & doubles allowed. No studded tires and no wheel weights on drive axle tires. Valve stem protectors are ok.


8.Body seam welding: Only allowed to repair rusted areas or previously run damaged cars. Repair with metal no thicker than area being repaired (20 gauge) and patch cannot be any larger than necessary to attach to good metal in all directions. Rusted or damaged area must be obvious and repair necessary or it will not be allowed. No welds inside car except for driver's rectangular safety zone, rust repair or as stated in this rule sheet. OFFICALS HAVE FINAL SAY ON THIS!


9. Hoods: must be open for inspection. They must have a hole above the carburetor at least 4” larger than air cleaner or if stacks are used an 8” hole around each stack is acceptable. Car must have hood unless fan blades are removed. Carburetors must have air cleaners. Hoods may be wired or bolted. If washers are welded to sheet metal to reinforce holes for wires then only 4 places can be used instead of the standard 8 places. ½ of wires may be run to bumper or frame. Each wired location may have max. 2 strands (#9 gage max.) of wire per spot. If bolted, no larger than 5/8” in size and in 4 places total. Through top only of core support and/or firewall or small pieces of angle iron welded to hood and fender edges. Call or e-mail for any clarification.


10.Factory leaf springs cars must have original number of springs and be of original thickness and length. No homemade from flat stock and main spring must be on top. They may be rebuilt but must have at least a 2” stair-step in length. No extra leafs allowed. Four spring clamps are allowed per side, at least 1 must be in front of axle.


11.Bumper shocks: may be welded, but no extra metal may be added. No home-made shocks, (pipes or tubing) in frame, factory bumper shocks only.


12.Bumper: substitution is allowed as long as it is of comparable size. Outer bumper shell may be welded to inner backing. If there are no access holes to see inside you must cut a 2” hole in each end of the bumper. Bumpers must be at least 12” and no more than 24” from ground to bottom of bumper. You may replace bumpers with pipe or square tubing. It may not be more than 4” in diameter and 5/16” thick. Ends must remain open and cannot be capped shut. It can be bolted or welded directly to bumper shock or end of frame. No extra added metal to sides or bottom but a small 4”x4”- ¼ “ thick piece may be used to secure top. If pipe is used you may use a small amount of metal to help secure the pipe into position and keep it from rolling. OFFICALS HAVE THE FINAL SAY ON OVER USE OF METAL OR NOT. !!!


13.Gas tanks: Stock tank must be removed & discarded. A portable tank or fuel cell must be SECURELY FASTENED to the floor and covered. It must be behind front seat and as far forward towards back of front seat as possible. Gas tank protectors are allowed. They can be no wider than 24” and back side of protector can be against, but not be attached to any vertical sheet metal. It can be bolted or strapped down through floor only. No extra width or height (over-sized plates) on rear of protector allowed. It is highly recommended that cars equipped with electric fuels pumps have a kill switch mounted at the base of driver’s door post and dash area for easy reach by safety personnel. All fuel lines and fittings run inside car should be pressure tested quality. If not, then all exposed lines and fittings must be covered and secured for drivers safety. THIS IS PROBABLY THE MOST IMPORTANT RULE THERE IS SO DO NOT CUT CORNERS!!!!


14.Battery: only one (any size) is allowed. It must be removed from original position and placed on the floor board of front seat passengers area. It also must be SECURELY FASTENED to the floor and covered.


15.Radiators: must remain in the original position or be taken out. Comparable replacement radiators are permitted. Transmission coolers are allowed under the hood or behind the driver’s seat. A fan or ice chest may be used for cooling purposes. If ice is used the container should seal good and not leak. All lines and fittings used should be of pressure tested quality. If not, then all exposed lines and fittings must be covered & secured. Officials have final say on this.

16.Trunks or tailgates: May be wired, chained or welded. No larger than medium size chain or max of 2 strands of #9 gauge wire per place. Body metal to body metal only or body metal to bumper in no more than 4 of the 8 places. If washers are welded to sheet metal to reinforce holes for wires or chains then only 4 places can be used instead of the standard 8 places. If welding, then 4 plates are allowed – 3x6x¼ “ thick. Sheet metal to sheet metal only. Rear section of vehicle may be creased, tucked or smashed, but not tightly. Officials have the final decision on this.


17.Body: Cutting fenders & ends of bumpers is allowed. Folding or rolling of sheet metal is allowed. You may lightly re-weld this metal or add 4 bolts max. per fender or quarter. Bolts no larger than 9/16 head size with max. 2” washers. You must have a window bar, chain or wire in the windshield area. Rear window bar is also permitted. Max strapping of 3”wide and ¼” thick to run from roof to firewall & roof to rear deck plate. If welded to trunk it must be within 3” of upper edge of trunk lid.


18. Fabricating: Welded solid or chained down engine & transmission mounts are recommended. Slider drive shafts and modified steering columns are allowed. Distributor protectors cannot have any kickers to body, frame or dash bar. DP cannot be any wider than intake manifold and must be at least 4” from dash bar.


19. Suspension: Shock helper springs and coil expanders may be used to help saggy or worn out springs. Not to increase the original height of the car. No homemade trailing arms on rear-end. Homemade or reinforced tie-rod ends are allowed. Reinforcement within reason, officials have final say. Rear-end braces are allowed but should be formed to fit against rear end. If not, they cannot extend more than 6" off rear-end and must be shorter than length between frame rails. If in doubt, call or e-mail with a question. Front suspension can be welded but cannot be done in a way to strengthen the frame or body. Bumper height rule #12 must followed.


OFFICIALS HAVE THE FINAL DECISION ON ALL RULES!


If it does not say it within the rules it does not mean you are allowed to do it. If in doubt, call first. For rules questions please contact


Bryan Mullins ( 419-631-1233 / [e-mail] ) or Earl Kidwell ( 419-618-7339 / [e-mail] )

[Bonestock79]

Morrow County Fair                                     


September 7th @ 5:00 p.m.


80’s Stock Class Rules and 80’s Stock Class Passenger Heat


This class is limited to full size hard top (80's and newer model) automobiles or station wagons. Some 70's are eligible if the body style was made into the 80's. Examples: GM full size cars 77-up, Ford LTD & Granada 79-up, Chrysler Newport & New Yorker 79-up, Plus ? Call if in Question. Wheel base of over 108” and 6 or 8 cylinder engines only. No ambulances, convertibles, hearses, limos.

2.Drivers must be at least 16 years old for this class. Only one entry per person per class.


3.There is no Entry Fee for this derby so no pre-entries. However, everyone must pay to get into the fair and pits. This includes the driver and pit personnel. Driver (and passenger) must be registered and vehicle must be inspected 1 hour prior to start time of show or a $25 late fee will be imposed.


4.This class will be a one heat, one shot deal. The top 3 drivers will receive money and a trophy. Payout will be based on car count. Mad Dog trophies will be available and given to any deserving drivers.


5.Safety belts, helmets and eye protection are required. Full length pants and long sleeve shirts are highly recommended for your safety. Demolition Derbies are hazardous and a high risk sport. Neither the Fair Board nor Track Officials are responsible for any injuries sustained by driver or pit crew before, during or after the event.

 

6.Drivers are responsible for the actions of their crew members. Any driver or pit person found to be unruly due to the influence of drugs or alcohol will be disqualified and removed from the grounds.


7.No profanity will be allowed on any portion of the car. Please remember, this is a Family Event.


8.Neither the Officials nor the Fair Board will be responsible for any cars, parts or property before, during or after the show.


9.The track officials have the right to reject any entries and to re-inspect any cars at any time. All rules are subject to change and the Officials have the final say. Judges decisions are Final  

PREPARTION OF CAR

1.Car number must be on a sign mounted securely on top of car, (at least 12” tall, max 24” long).


2.Remove all glass, head and tail lights, and clean inside of car and trunk before arrival at fairgrounds. This applies to metal parts, trash, screws, nails, nuts, bolts and glass. Broken glass inside doors is not permitted. Chrome molding strips, side-view mirrors, protruding outside door handles and emblems must be removed. All rear seats must be removed, including third seat and decking plates on wagons. All air bags and activation charges must be disconnected and removed.


3.Front doors can be welded shut and re-enforced (inside or out) for safety. Only flat metal can be used on outside and cannot exceed 6” past doors vertical seams. Inside can be re-enforced with anything. Top of driver’s door skin only, can be rolled over and welded. All other doors must be chained or wired shut plus one 3”x 6” x 1 /4” plate MAX may be welded on each door seam at the impact zone, halfway up the door.


4.Drivers area: Pipe, angle iron, square tubing, or steel bar no larger than 4” can be used to build a rectangular safety zone. You are allowed a dash bar and seat bar can be connected with door bars. Door bars cannot extend any further than the dash bar and seat bar. The dash and seat bars can use a flat plate on each end (12”x12” max). The rear seat bar must be within 4” of rear of seat and end plates can only be welded to door posts and doors. Do not extend the end plates to the floor. A roll over bar can be welded to the bar behind the seat and run straight up (no tilting) and over the roof. No cages or any other re-enforcements inside the car.


5.Windshield area: We suggest you install a bar, metal strap, chain or wire in the windshield area for the drivers protection to help prevent hood from coming in. Nothing allowed in any other window areas.



6.Motor swaps are allowed but must match make of car: GM in a GM, Ford in a Ford & Mopar in a Mopar. They may be welded or chained down but must be in stock position. Stacks on engine are ok. No distributor protectors or any other kind of engine protector. Carburetors must have air cleaners.

 

7.Rear-ends and trailing arms must be stock for that make of car. Spider gears can be welded.


8.Suspension must be stock and have bounce. Shock helper springs and coil ex-panders may be used to help saggy or worn out springs. No welding of suspension. Factory leaf spring cars must have original number of springs and be of original thickness and length. They may be rebuilt but must have at least a 2” stair-step in length. No extra leafs or homemade flat stock springs. Four spring clamps allowed per side, at least 1 must be in front of axle.


9.Frame: No welding on frame. Notching of frame is ok but no re-welding. No frame repairs allowed unless Ok’d by head official and this will be for drivers safety only.


10.Bumpers must be stock and use stock mounting. They can be mounted by using 1 of the following methods; bolted, chained, wired, or welded. Bumper shocks may be drained and pushed in. If bumper has aluminum backing it can be rebolted directly thru the front of the bumper. *Bolting must use factory size bolts.

                                                                                                                               
*Wiring with #9 wire up to 8 loops from frame to around or thru the bumper in 2 places.                                                                        

*Chain link size can be 3/8” max. You may use chain from frame to bumper or from frame around bumper in 2 places. 

*Last link only can be welded or bolted. Links cannot be welded together.                                                                                                      

*Welding using a minimal single pass no weave weld and no filler metal. All of the following must be observed; only welding from bumper to bumper backing plate, backing plate to the shock, inner and outer shock tubes, and shock to frame. If no shock tube or mounting bracket is used the bumper can use a single 4” x 4” x ¼” plate max to mount the bumper directly to the end of the frame.                                                                                                                                         

*No other welding or modifications to bumper or bumper shocks will be permitted. If in doubt call to clarify.

 

11.Battery, only 1 any size, is allowed. It must be removed from original position and placed on the floor board of front seat passenger’s area. It must be securely fastened to the floor and covered.


12.Radiators must be mounted in stock location. Comparable replacement radiators are permitted. Transmission coolers are allowed under the hood only.


13.Body: No welding or patching on body unless approved in advance by an official. If it is not a safety issue it will not be approved. Rusted through floors inside the car between the firewall and rear axle can be patched for driver, gas tank and battery safety. Body mount bolts must be stock in stock location with rubber mounts. No screws or bolts in any sheet metal, like fenders, quarters, hoods or trunks. No severe wedging or tucking of vehicle. Minor creasing or denting is OK but don't get carried away. We would like them to look stock their first time out. Pre-run cars are allowed more leniencies in body tucking, denting & creasing. For seriously damaged car changes call first. Example: if you are going to sedagon a wagon call first.


14.Gas tanks: THIS IS PROBABLY THE MOST IMPORTANT RULE THERE IS!!!! Stock tanks must be removed and replaced. A portable tank or fuel cell must be SECURELY FASTENED to the floor and covered. It must be behind front seat and no farther back than the rear seat Gas tank protectors are allowed but must meet requirements. They can be no wider than 24” and back side of protector can be against, but not be attached to any vertical sheet metal. It can be bolted or strapped down through floor only. No extra width or height (over-sized plates) on rear of protector allowed. It is highly recommended that cars equipped with electric fuel pumps have a kill switch mounted at the base of the driver’s door post and dash area for easy reach by safety personnel. All fuel lines and fittings run inside car should be pressure tested quality or be covered and/or wrapped for driver’s safety. Gas tank must be covered with a non-absorbent material. 15. Tires: No restrictions on tire size. Solids and doubles are allowed. No wheel weights on drive axle and no studded snow tires. Valve stem protectors are allowed.


16.Hoods, Trunks and Tailgates may be wired or chained in up to 8 spots. Maximum wire size of 9 gauge with no more than 2 strands per spot. No more than 4 of the locations can be run to bumper or frame. Hoods must be left open for inspection. Hood must have a hole above carburetor at least 4” larger than air cleaner. If stacks are used an 8” hole around each stack is acceptable. Car must have hood.


17.Transmission: Homemade shifters through the floor are allowed. This class is for the guy or gal that does not want to put a lot of work and money into building a car. We will not tolerate any bending of these rules. If the officials decide you are overbuilt you will have to run another class or load your car. Official’s decisions are final.



OFFICIALS HAVE THE FINAL DECISION ON ALL RULES!


If it does not say it within the rules it does not mean you are allowed to do it. If in doubt, call first. For rules questions please contact Bryan Mullins ( 419-631-1233 / [e-mail] ) or Earl Kidwell ( 419-618-7339)   


 

[B12 Racing]

Question; Stock body mounts are literally that - the stock mounts? or allowed to replace with stock-appearing bolts? Have seen both pass inspection and I'm curious which way is the proper method. Hate to be the one changing my body mounts in the pits while the guy next to me gets through with his aftermarket bolts.

[Bonestock79]

The body mount bolts should remain stock factory bolts, in their factory location, untouched. However, if a couple are bad, and you cut the top open, torch the diamond out, replace with an original setup from factory, as in stock body bolt with stock diamond nut, ( STOCK OEM replacement ), I would see no issue in technically changing the mount.

[67X]

looking forward to building a car for the build class. Definitely should be a good time.

[smash101]

man them rules look like smash it ;;;;;;;;;;;;

[Bonestock79]

Good thing the boss over there was asked for permission, and if he will notice his only requirement was met with our names and numbers put on the bottom instead of his lol

[Bonestock79]

Ready to see ya on the track again Nate

[67X]