RULES: 2015
Drivers: All drivers will fill out an entry form and sign insurance form to participate.
Men and Women will run in same class. NO Powder Puff
You must be 18 years old to compete with a valid drivers license or valid ISSUED I.D. card from the state of your residence. (do not forget your I.D. or you will not run)
Drivers must furnish his/her own vehicle or have one sponsored to them.
DRIVERS MUST WEAR HELMET, EYE PROTECTION, LONG SLEEVES, PANTS, & SHOES TO PARTICIPATE. (NO SHORTS, T-SHIRTS, SANDLES, ECT.) GLOVES & FIRE SUIT ARE RECOMMENDED
NO DRIVERS OR PIT CREW MEMBERS WILL BE ALLOWED TO BE UNDER THE INFLUENCE OF ANY ALCOHOLIC BEVERAGES OR ILLEGAL DRUGS.
DO NOT COME TO THIS SHOW INTOXICATED OR WITH ANY ALCOHOLIC BEVERAGES.
YOU WILL BE ARRESTED AND PROSECUTED, ALL ALCOHOL WILL BE CONFISCATED, COOLERS WILL BE CHECKED.
LEAVE ANY DRUG PARAPHENALIA AT HOME!!!!
Entry fee is non-refundable if your car does not pass inspection. Entry 40.00 75.00 DAY OF THE SHOW
All drivers must attend drivers meeting before show starts.
Gates open at 11am
ALL CARS SHOULD BE ON FAIRGROUNDS BY 2pm
Type of Cars for stocks and pro-mods: Any year sedan or station wagon except, no trucks, vans, carryalls, 4x4's.) ANY YEAR IMPERIAL ALLOWED Also you may run a convertible as long as a metal car roof has been installed without reinforcing the body of the car.
HEATS will be assigned by staff and will be a course of elimination heats to advance to the feature.
4 cars out of each heat unless there is a shortage of cars. 3 will be the alternative if this case occurs.
THE DRIVER QUALIFIES FOR THE FEATURE NOT THE CAR, what this means is: if you destroy your car in the heat and you qualify for the feature "you may use another registered car that has RUN IN A HEAT OR CONSI. for atleast 5 minutes. (HEAD OFFICIAL MUST BE NOTIFIED TO MAKE CHANGES IN THE ROSTER) This persons name is John Faucett!
Do not get out of your vehicle unless you are told to do so by a official while you are competing in the arena area.
Drivers must remain with their vehicles until they are removed from the arena.
NO PIT CREWS ALLOWED ON THE TRACK AT ANYTIME, FAMILY MEMBERS, or FRIENDS.
This will result in disqualification and forfeit of any prize money.
All cars will have a working seat belt for the drivers seat and it will be on during the event.
NO DRIVERS DOOR HITS: However, we all know that accidents do happen. If it looks intentional you will get disqualified. If it is questionable we may stop the heat or feature and it will be up to the driver who recieved the hit in the door if the violater is disqualified. SO PLEASE TELL ALL FAMILY MEMBERS AND FRIENDS SO THERE IS NO CONFUSION.
TEAM DRIVING: It is allowed to a certain extent. YOU MUST MAKE COMPETITIVE CONTACT WITH ALL VEHICLES THAT ARE COMPETING IN THE ARENA. Do not make the officials dictate the outcome!!
Sandbagging: It is up to the drivers that are competing to take out the other cars that are grocery shopping, not the officials. Remember 1 minute combat rule. 1 minute re-starts. "Some drivers may get more time for a re-start if they are putting on a good show"
Officials will paint an X on the sandbaggers so the rest of the field is aware of what is going on. It is up to you as a driver to take them out. The officials reserve the right and will disqualify a sandbagger if he does not get with the program.
FIRES: Depending on what type of fire it is, you will be out. 1 fire in the heat. Maybe 2 in the feature (it all depends on what type it is)
ROLLOVERS: We hope this does not occur and at the first sign of a car rolling over YOU NEED TO GET OUT OF THE GAS & STOP.
OFFICIALS DECISIONS ARE FINAL: NO UNSPORTSMAN LIKE CONDUCT WILL BE TOLORATED. Arrest or Removal from the fairground property will occur.
Preparation of derby cars:
All glass, plastic, trim, lights, ect. WILL BE REMOVED FROM DERBY CARS BEFORE THEY ARRIVE ON GROUNDS TO BE INSPECTED.
Batteries must be secured in the front passenger floor area with a cover. Gas tanks will be removed from all vehicles and a smaller gas tank can be re-located in the back seat floor area. Boat tank or fuel cell recommended.
Steering column does not have to be a stock OEM column.
Transmission coolers are allowed in the driver/passenger area. Metal or High pressure lines only!
IN STATION WAGONS ALL REAR SEATS AND DECK LIDS MUST BE REMOVED BEFORE ARRIVAL TO GROUNDS.
ANY TYPE CAR ENGINE CAN BE SWAPPED
Engine mounts: may be reinforced or homemade engine mounts. They cannot reinforce the frame in any way. Do not weld engine chains to the frame (must be bolted) unless it is on the engine cradle. Any skid plates must be welded to the pans only.
ENGINE CRADLES and Trans. cradles are allowed but cannot reinforce frame. HOMEMADE ANGLE TYPE CROSSMEMBERS ARE ALLOWED.
BUMPERS: Any car bumper can be put on any derby car.
Due to the high cost of bumpers you may "stuff the inside of the front bumper only" OR take a 4x4 piece of square tubing and put a bumper skin on it (front only)
DO NOT DO THIS TO THE REAR OF THE BUMPER
Bumper brackets can be welded to the frame. DO NOT PUT REAR BUMPER BRACKETS ON THE FRONT. Do not move bumper brackets from stock location. Bumpers can be held on by #9 wire in (4) spots to sheet metal.
*If you use shocks to mount bumper they must be the same as car gm with gm, mopar with mopar, ford with ford. No ibeam shocks on vics, ect., and same style as what came from the factory for that year.
***BUMPER HEIGHT FOR THE REAR IS: 16 Inches from the ground to the bottom of the bumper***
SUSPENSIONS: Any type rearend allowed. But must be mounted like it was there from factory. NO braces from rearend to body or frame beside factory mounting. Chains on rearend are fine.
*You may weld a 2x2 INCH STRAP on BOTH SIDES of the A-FRAME or have a bolt welded to the frame to bolt A-frame solid for height due to bad coil springs, re-enforced or homemade tie rods are allowed, & allthread is allowed for rear shocks.
YOU WILL BE ALLOWED TO LEAF SPRING A COIL SPRING CAR. (Posted in Things to Know)
If you have a leaf spring vehicle no more then 9 springs and they must have stagger (you may have a spring the same size as the main leaf). NO WELDING ON OR PLUG WELDED LEAF SPRINGS! No cold rolled steal for springs. 6 clamps per side.
Control arms can be reinforced or make your own (I prefer plated)
must be stock size. They may be shortened or added too. DO NOT REMOVE AND REWELD 97 AND NEWER LOWER CONTROL ARM ASSEMBLY MUST BE STOCK LOCATION ON FRAME.
Tires: No tires bigger then a 16, any ply rating does not have to be DOT, Tires inside of a tire OK, & any split rims must be welded.
Valve stem protectors are ok. No studded tires.
CAR FRAMES: You may weld the top seam only.
22 inch arch plates on rear (prefer contoured to the frame) Split rail rear frames may be boxed in with the same thickness of metal (no bigger then 1/4 inch).)
ON A PRE-RAN CAR you can have (4) 4inch by 6inch plates any where on the frame as long as it is damaged. (only (2) if no damage like a fresh car)
DO NOT RUN 4x6 PLATES TOGETHER space 4 inches
"THIS INCLUDES ARCH PLATES"
A FRESH CAR can have (2) 4inch by 6inch plates any where on the frame. THICKNESS ON ALL PLATES 1/4 (quarter inch)
Body bolts no bigger then 3/4. Do not go all the way through the frame (stock type mounting)
CAN BE MOUNTED SOLID W/no rubber (body & frame)
If you have rusted out frame holes. You are allowed a 3 inch washer to cover 1/4 inch thickness. Do not slide bodies on derby cars. They must remain in the stock position.
Do not re-skin or double any metal on car bodies. If you have rusted out body mounts. Then use the same thickness to fix. Do not get carried away or you will cut it.
FRAMES: may tilted no more then 1/2 inch. No additional welding on FORD CRUSH BOXES other then to tilt. This does not count as a top seam weld. You may tilt rear frames on cars.
Frames will be GM Corporation to GM Corp., Ford Corp. to Ford Corp., Chrysler Corp. to Chrysler Corp. and car bodies will match the same manufacture as well. In other words do not put a Chevy clip in your Ford or a whole frame swap into another car manufacture. NO HYBRIDS = Clipping cars no newer or older frame swaps 60's clip in you 90's car. Must be same year swap.
YOU MAY CHANGE OUT FORD ALUMINUM CRADLES WITH A FORD STEEL ONE (Do not add any extra!)
Any debris on the frame (such as mud and grass) you are responsible for gettting it off before you arrive to be inspected
Do not re-paint your frame or undercoat it. It will make for a long day for YOU to clean it off for the officials to inspect your car...
CAGES: No pipe or square tubing bigger then 4 inch. Can be mounted to the frame or body no more then 4 legs. Legs cannot go inside the frame or NEAR crush boxes on FORDS. Legs must be straight down with no angle & in the drivers compartment only. Rear bar behind seat must accompany the down leg. Over head bar cannot be angled and will be near the drivers helmet area.
A hole may be drilled in your cowl/dash area during inspection to make sure no extra metal is in it! Do not weld your dash bar to the cowl dash area. Dash Bar must be over the stock location of where the steering column mount was.
GAS TANK PROTECTORS MUST BE INSIDE THE FRAME RAILS ON ALL CARS OR 4 INCHES AWAY FROM SHEET METAL IF THEY ARE OVER THE RAILS.
*DO NOT PUT PIPES OR ANYTHING ELSE INSIDE THE FRAME* If anything extra is found you will not be allowed to run period and will forfeit entry and or prize money!
Window bar for gas tank protector: May be connected to top of the car and no further then two inches onto the trunk.
We will give a little on this because of drivers size, do not cover the entire driver / passenger compartment with a cage. 6 inches past the door post is the golden rule.
DOORS AND TRUNK: Can be welded solid with 2 inch strap for trunk. Door strap SHOULD NOT BE EXCESSIVE IN SIZE TO COMPLETE THE JOB. TRUNKS: May be welded, chained, wire, or all thread. You cannot use all four, only ONE...You can use all thread for your body mounts in the trunk (2 only) "bolts must be inside the frame" Trunk must not be welded to the trunk floor in anyway. *TRUNK LID MUST BE 12 INCHES FROM THE FLOOR ALL THE WAY ACROSS*
A 12/12 inch hole will be cut in the trunk for inspection. *(All QUARTER PANELS WILL REMAIN STRAIGHT OTHER THEN CREASING)*
Read more:
we-crash.proboards.com/thread/55241/clinton-county-fair-spring-show?page=1#ixzz3O9iEfGp8HOODS: may be fastened down in 6 spots w/bolts, wire, or chain. All thread may be used for the core support holes. The other 4 will be sheet metal to sheet metal.
Hood must be open for inspection and located in stock position. No bending in front of the radiator....
Mandatory:
All DERBY CARS MUST HAVE NUMBERS ON BOTH DRIVER AND PASSENGER DOORS. YOUR NAME WILL APPEAR ON DRIVERSIDE DOOR OR TOP. Roof sign is optional and cannot reinforce the car.
Cars will operate in a safe manner during the heat and feature events. If a derby car appears to be at risk of injury to the driver, spectators, or officials you may be disqualified. (example: doors torn off exposing driver)
INSPECTION will occur before your car runs in its assigned heat. It will be subject to re-inspection at anytime until feature is over. Once the winner has been declared it is over with no re-inspection.
On 1978 and older sedans only, you may extend your arch plate to the first body mount on the outside of the frame only and not go past the hole in the frame. 1980 and newer GM & Chrysler sedans can have this too.
NEW RULE FOR 2014 for Imperials: You may weld a 2 inch piece of square tubing or similar in size to your dash bar to the back of your cap protector. Dash bar must remain in the stock location over the steering column.
All other cars have a choice between the above rule or kickers in the front. "not both".
NEW RULE 2014: 1964 and older Ford and Mercury can only have a 22 inch arch plate.
NO PLASTIC GAS TANKS
ALL GAS TANK PROTECTORS MUST BE INSIDE THE FRAME RAILS IF IT TOUCHES REAR SHEET METAL. 4 inches if it is outside the rails.
Cap protectors: Your cap protector will be atleast 6 inches away from the dash bar if you cut away the firewall. You will not be allowed to run if your protector is touching your dash bar.
You may have bolts over your wheel wells for the quarters, no extra bracing just bolts and washers.
Core support and all thread. You may weld the core support to the fenders (do not add anything) "no plates". On the fords "guys are sticking pipe or square tubing to jack up the core support" this is ok and you can weld the pipe or square down to the frame so it is not sloppy. (nothing bigger then 2 inches on pipe or square)
You may run two kickers behind the A-frames on a GM, FORD, or CHRYSLER or any other car manufacture not listed. NO KICKERS TO THE REAR FRAME
******03 AND UP FORDS & MERCURYS********
Can change cradle with a factory ford parts with one pass of weld. NO EXTRA METAL USED. NO FILLING IN CRUSH POINTS OR INSPECTION HOLES IN FRAME. You have to weld a 3/4 washer on frame that 3/4 bolt will fit in, then drill or cut center of washer or frame out for inspection. One in front of a-arm and one behind a-arms on both sides. Bandaids may not cover these up. Make sure we can see inside frame.
You will not be allowed to hold anyone on or against a wall while another car hits it. What happens in the center of the ring is considered fair game. NO PUSHING A CAR OUT OF THE ARENA THIS INCLUDES OVER THE WALLS!
? Hmmmm decisions decisions
