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Post by goines2 on Aug 17, 2013 2:28:39 GMT -5
As long as you use the rubber O-rings between the bell and the tranny, it shouldn't leak. There isn't anywhere for it to leak from other than that.
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Post by clharper93 on Aug 19, 2013 8:34:31 GMT -5
I used an angle grinder with a cutting wheel. And it leaks. I've mounted it twice, and it still leaks
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Post by keithestes101 on Aug 21, 2013 22:16:06 GMT -5
There is a casting line on top side of bell housing. Cut along it for a guide. I use drill bit then air saw. I space out holes about 3/4 or more. U want to cut the bell enough that it does touch at all. Down by pan area sucks and where bell is straight and not curved. It's thick and take your time. Your actually have grind the top of the bolt holes for the front of the pan mounting flange and bend pan edge down sometimes. I can usually do one in about two hours. I have couple pics with it cut off if u want them just message me your number.
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Post by derby47 on Sept 8, 2013 19:43:31 GMT -5
Bolt on w/ longer pump bolts.
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m16
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Post by m16 on Sept 10, 2013 17:49:36 GMT -5
Just seen how on spike tv, and feel I'm an expert now
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rennyx
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Post by rennyx on Jul 17, 2022 9:58:27 GMT -5
I put my nerat steel bell on. How do you put the torque convertor bolts in? Through the starter hole? I can barely get my hand in there.
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Post by cheezwhiz31 on Jul 18, 2022 8:08:54 GMT -5
I put my nerat steel bell on. How do you put the torque convertor bolts in? Through the starter hole? I can barely get my hand in there. Yup. Sucks we roll it over by hand with starter off and finagle them in. I usually try and make sure i have a threaded torque when i run steel so i only need one not 2.
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rennyx
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Post by rennyx on Jul 18, 2022 17:00:58 GMT -5
That's what I figured. My convertor is threaded so that's a bonus. Thanks.
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Post by klicky96 on Jul 18, 2022 20:34:55 GMT -5
Cut a hole in the bottom of the bell, maybe a 2" hole. That way, if/when you drop a bolt or washer down in there, you don't have to pull the teans back out to get it out.
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