west6
Heat Winner
Bryan West
Posts: 574
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Post by west6 on Aug 12, 2013 17:57:22 GMT -5
The only fuse with no power is a 10a inst lmp. Installed a new one and still nothing. How can i hard wire past the ignition, fuel pump, and starter?
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Post by demo296 on Aug 20, 2013 11:39:43 GMT -5
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Post by nick167 on Aug 24, 2013 16:05:34 GMT -5
Hey gotta 97 grand am here and of course the previous owners lost the key. Broke out center of ignition and turned it so its always on and added a pushbutton. When I crank it it fires almost instantly but then stalls. If you keep cranking as it stalls it will start after a few seconds of cranking. If you stop cranking in between the starts it wont ever start.. was thinking anti theft but wouldnt that keep if from running all together? Thoughs and ideas greatly appreciated
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Post by nick167 on Aug 24, 2013 16:08:59 GMT -5
Just for a reference when it does start it idles very unsmooth till it warms up. Could it be something to do with the temp sensors or anything along those lines?
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Post by Aron72 on Aug 28, 2013 11:26:53 GMT -5
For those interested take a look at this link to bypass www.kingbain.com/how-to-permanently-disable-gm-passlock-system/Was just having problems with a 98 Grand Am which is now running, have yet to hear back from a friend if he used this link to fix it or another way, but I will add that here when I find out from him (I'm at work) I have to question whether I sent that procedure to whoever posted it. I ran into an issue about 6 years ago with the passlock on a 2002 Impala, not wanting to spend the money at the dealership I did some research and some testing and figured out how to bypass it. I offered to perform a bypass on anyone having the security issue just so I could get pictures and document the procedure. A lady from Indiana drove over (central Illinois) for me to do this. I put together the instructions and posted my email for others having the issue, offering to email. Since then I have sent the instructions to well over 2500 emails. The instructions on that web page is extremely close to what I have put together. The only difference is that mine goes into more detail and has pictures. I have tried to attach my instructions, not sure if it worked. C:\Users\shofnaw\Desktop\Bypass instructions1.pdf (982.4 KB)
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Post by maddog25 on Nov 11, 2013 13:23:30 GMT -5
I have a 96 cavalier and I'm having trouble with the anti theft. The car was running good then took the cluster out and it will start and run for no longer then a second. I see how to bypass this if the key has a chip but my key does not, and I also threw the cluster out. I was wondering if anyone had a link or could tell me how to bypass this.
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Post by C4 on Nov 11, 2013 13:40:10 GMT -5
I also would really like to know about bypassing it all together, as I intend to use the drivetrain out of our 98 Cavi in an older car.
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Post by deathsquad67 on Dec 17, 2013 12:09:10 GMT -5
just picked up an 02 Century for next spring. Chipped key. Just read Aron72s bypass procedure....looks fairly simple just need to find these wires in my buick.....does this bypass all security issues? or just eliminates the need for proper chipped key? i will likely leave the dash in this car, just chain and bang at the speedway for braggin rights.
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Post by scottracing65 on Mar 16, 2014 17:34:51 GMT -5
Got a 95 grand Prix. I haven't cut any wires in dash just unplugged stuff from like ac controls and radio and heater stuff I got the whole left side of dash out and started it just to make sure. She fired up. Then took out speedometer and heater motors and there's a fuse box on left from fender swith ign switch fuses when I turn key they click and something els clicks its not the starter... I jumped starter it winded but didn't crank motor.. There is also a chip in the key.. Help would be greatly appreciated thank you!
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Post by smasher on Mar 19, 2014 18:29:14 GMT -5
Ok got a 96 lumina fuel pump went bad ,changed it out car started then shuts off in a few seconds ,was starting with key now gotta start it with push button,same crap starts then stops ,any ideas or it's going to crusher. Thanks
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Post by C4 on Mar 19, 2014 21:58:46 GMT -5
Ok got a 96 lumina fuel pump went bad ,changed it out car started then shuts off in a few seconds ,was starting with key now gotta start it with push button,same crap starts then stops ,any ideas or it's going to crusher. Thanks The steps on page 1 worked for me.
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T-Brell
Feature Winner
Posts: 2,295
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Post by T-Brell on Apr 22, 2014 11:12:19 GMT -5
Anyone figure out how to eliminate the VATS module entirely yet? If not, I'll figure it out. Gunna hotwire the fuel pump and starter switch. Gunna figure out how to bypass the instrument cluster. If someone has already figured it out and wants to save me the time, LMK...
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west6
Heat Winner
Bryan West
Posts: 574
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Post by west6 on Apr 27, 2014 22:58:43 GMT -5
I've messed with one on a cavi and what I found with the anti theft on it was it didn't let the injectors open. We had power to the coil pack, fire at the plugs, good compression, good fuel pump and pressure to the fuel rail, but the injectors weren't right. It would run off ether or dumping gas into the throttle body. I've heard you can wire past it but they run off the negative side of those cars which is very wired. I know a dude that has done it, I just gave up and scrapped the car.
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T-Brell
Feature Winner
Posts: 2,295
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Post by T-Brell on Apr 28, 2014 8:19:52 GMT -5
Well I wire industrial equipment for a living so I can read wiring diagrams like it's a second language. I was hoping I would just be able to run a hot wire to the wire that runs from the VATS box to the computer, but it looks like there's more to it than that. Maybe someone that's looked into this more than I have can confirm this, because I couldn't find a definitive answer on it. With the research I've done, it seems that it isn't just a 12v DC signal to the computer that comes from the VATS box. (Skip to the bottom if you don't want an explanation and what I found) Here is a little background to help people understand. An oscilloscope is an electrical measuring device that shows the frequency sign wave. If you were to hook one into the outlet at your house, it would measure 60 hertz AC(Alternating current), that is the standard provided by American power companies. Hertz is the measurement of electricity going positive and negative within a time frame, hertz is measured in seconds. What this means is that the electricity coming out of the wall of your house goes 120v positive and 120v negative 60 times within 1 second. This is what an AC sine wave looks like www.nooutage.com/images/s-1500output.gifNow, with a car, it runs off of 12v DC. DC doesn't have a sine wave like AC, it doesn't swoop back and forth, on an oscilloscope, it will just appear as a straight line. SO, with all that info everyone will understand what I'm going to say. The computer is looking for either a 30 hz or 50 hz AC signal (I believe some ECUs look for 30 and other 50). So, 12v DC goes into the VATS box, inverts it to an AC signal, and sends it to the computer. That being said, the best thing to do is to just howire the VATS box up without bypassing it. That is, if what I had read and understood was correct. Now, if someone didn't want to have to figure out the resistance of a VATS box every time, there's no reason you couldn't splice the same box into different ECUs, that is, if the frequency (hertz) is the same between ECUs.
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west6
Heat Winner
Bryan West
Posts: 574
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Post by west6 on Apr 28, 2014 9:25:46 GMT -5
I'm following you some Tony, boogaloo is the one I know of who wired past a 2.2 cavi he could prob help some
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