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Post by tofer97 on Aug 17, 2015 14:18:11 GMT -5
My tip for the front end, take 2 pieces of small C-channel and notch one end on each piece big enough to place a 2" diameter pipe with 1/4" thick wall and weld each piece of C-channel on each frame horn on the outside of the frame then weld the pipe into the notches and weld a bumper skin over the pipe. I went head on with a built 80's ford and split his bumper literately in half and my bumper didn't even move. Along with the "custom" front bumper run 2 pieces of 1" all thread along each side of the core support with no body spacers so it mounts the doghouse solid to the frame. After 2 runs my front end is barely damaged and ready to go again.
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Post by becklerb52 on Aug 25, 2015 9:54:09 GMT -5
What's a good front clip to put on a 76 f150 took a nasty hit and pushed it to the motor
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Post by jimslater on Oct 27, 2015 12:44:51 GMT -5
I know the major differences in the frames, I am wondering if the actual rails themselves, not the crossmembers, the rails themselves have the same curves and bends from a 61-64 ford as the 65-66 style and the 67-68 style frames. those who know the frames will know what I mean, just looking to do some work and looked all over the internet cant find a good picture of a bare newer style frame to compare to my 61-64. Any help would be awesome.
P.s. a pointy on a stock truck leaf frame if welded on right will take a lot of shit and abuse but the frame can only hold out so long hitting anything equally as tough, or a lot of weaker trucks... just sayin
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Post by coop35 on Jun 13, 2016 8:41:11 GMT -5
building a 77 f150 4x4 for a quick chain and go derby i am wondering since i dont have much time or money would it be better take the rear drive shaft out and run fwd instead of one wheel wonder in the rear?
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Post by farmboyztoyz on Jun 13, 2016 12:17:31 GMT -5
No, just pull the cover and weld it.
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nemos
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Post by nemos on Jun 16, 2016 17:51:48 GMT -5
No, just pull the cover and weld it. I believe a 1977 F150 would have a 9 inch rear end... You can't just pull a cover and weld. You'd have to remove the pumpkin. But the front should be a Dana 44 that does have a cover...
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Post by farmboyztoyz on Jun 16, 2016 18:50:49 GMT -5
No, just pull the cover and weld it. I believe a 1977 F150 would have a 9 inch rear end... You can't just pull a cover and weld. You'd have to remove the pumpkin. But the front should be a Dana 44 that does have a cover... If it has the 9 inch then pull the hog head and weld it.
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Post by becklerb52 on Jun 16, 2016 22:08:04 GMT -5
Are their any pictures of how to wrld a 9in on here?
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nemos
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Post by nemos on Jun 17, 2016 17:00:36 GMT -5
Are their any pictures of how to wrld a 9in on here? www.youtube.com/watch?v=XQ1mWJFevUsHere is a pretty good video on how to do it. You do have to take everything apart, not as quick and easy as just pulling a pan and welding in place. I have done a 9 inch before like the video. The nice thing is once you have a welded 3rd member, you can keep it and use it again in other cars/trucks. My first Welded Diff failed one year and we swapped in another in the pits between heats (20 Minutes!)
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Post by klicky96 on Jun 17, 2016 21:19:25 GMT -5
You can always cut the rear housing off, weld, then weld it back on. It's definitely not the right way, but it's easier. I myself would just buy a $30 minispool and be done. I have no idea why anyone would be stupid enough to weld a 9" ford.
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nemos
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Post by nemos on Jun 17, 2016 21:52:37 GMT -5
You can always cut the rear housing off, weld, then weld it back on. It's definitely not the right way, but it's easier. I myself would just buy a $30 minispool and be done. I have no idea why anyone would be stupid enough to weld a 9" ford. So your giving advice on some thing you've never done? You'll see in the video that you can not just cut open the rear of the housing and "weld things up". Its a neat idea but wouldn't work with a 9". The 9" has its spiders and side gears enclosed inside the carrier. www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2002/02/nineinch/diagram.gif
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Post by klicky96 on Jun 18, 2016 6:21:58 GMT -5
You can always cut the rear housing off, weld, then weld it back on. It's definitely not the right way, but it's easier. I myself would just buy a $30 minispool and be done. I have no idea why anyone would be stupid enough to weld a 9" ford. So your giving advice on some thing you've never done? You'll see in the video that you can not just cut open the rear of the housing and "weld things up". Its a neat idea but wouldn't work with a 9". The 9" has its spiders and side gears enclosed inside the carrier. www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2002/02/nineinch/diagram.gifActually, in calling anyone who welds a 9" stupid. And I've built plenty and didn't even cross my mind that they were in an enclosed carrier, completely flew over my head. But still, why weld spiders, take the hardened strength from them, and risk exploding the diff? Especially when you can buy a $30 minispool and a $5 cross pin and be done. If you really feel the need and are laying power, get a full spool. It's a 9", parts are cheap. It's the sbc of diffs.
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nemos
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Post by nemos on Jun 18, 2016 20:43:32 GMT -5
Actually, in calling anyone who welds a 9" stupid. And I've built plenty and didn't even cross my mind that they were in an enclosed carrier, completely flew over my head. But still, why weld spiders, take the hardened strength from them, and risk exploding the diff? Especially when you can buy a $30 minispool and a $5 cross pin and be done. If you really feel the need and are laying power, get a full spool. It's a 9", parts are cheap. It's the sbc of diffs. Well I have to say, calling some one stupid because they do something different then you is rather close minded. There are many different ways to get the job done and we are each entitled to own opinions. We also have our own skill level and comfort zones. I know there are different ways to "weld up" a diff. How do you do yours? My first 9" with a Mig I just welded everything together. Spiders to the side gears, to the carrier. As I learned this is not the way to do it. It only lasted 2 heats. The welds broke and it ate its self to death. This carrier remains on my mantle as "Art". The second Diff I welded, I did like in the video: www.youtube.com/watch?v=XQ1mWJFevUs Fast fwd to 6:45 to see how the gears are welded. I like this method MUCH better! Filling in two opposing gear valleys makes things bullet proof! Doing this "fill in" welding to all 4 spiders and both side gears locks everything up nicely. This way the filled valleys on the gears compress against each other, verses welds being tore apart. Of course I agree you have to make sure not to put too much heat into the gears, a Mig makes nice work of this. The second Diff we did with the "fill in" method has gone through hell and back. Always behind a 460. The first car took a hard rear tire to retire impact and broke our axle shaft just outside the carrier. That car did 2 more heats as 1WD. The broken shaft end ate away at the carrier. We then gutted that axle and used all those welded spiders, side gears and shafts in our next car. Same 460 in a 8 seater station wagon, lumpy Dirt track and still that diff has held up well. So is it stupid to weld up a 9" ? I don't think so. We know what we're doing and it worked great for us. If you have a mini spool, go for it. Do what you want. I would love to go Full Spool but we enjoy the fabrication and working with what we have. The Mini spools although easy to install, worry me some. I dislike the ones that only use one pin(Replace 2 spider units). Thats only one pin taking the entire load and shock. When we welded ours we used both pins and 4 spiders. Another word of advice to those that actually come to this forum for information. Always make sure you know what you have, not all 9" axles are the same, or stock. Think about this, any 9" axle you find is going to be at least 30 years old. The chances that some one has gone in there for repairs... or swap things around are rather high. With the five 9" axles I have worked on, no TWO have been the same! Some have only 1 pin/2 spiders, 2 pin/4 spiders . you could have 28 or 31 spline axle shafts. I know trucks are suppose to have 31 spline shafts but both truck rears I have opened up had 28 splines... that could mess you up if you go ahead and order a spool with out checking first. Outer bearing sizes have been different. Heck, one derby axle I was given had a car wheel bolt pattern on one side and truck on the other! One thing I have learned is, Everything will brake! Derby is a great way to find your weakest link. Be creative and find a way around it next time but don't get too frustrated. No matter how well you build it, there is always the chance a fluke can take it out again. Have Fun!
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nemos
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Posts: 41
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Post by nemos on Jun 18, 2016 20:51:53 GMT -5
building a 77 f150 4x4 for a quick chain and go derby i am wondering since i dont have much time or money would it be better take the rear drive shaft out and run fwd instead of one wheel wonder in the rear? Getting back to this, Sounds like you have a 4wd and you have to be 2WD to compete? Sounds pretty cool. Around here they will not let us even bring a 4wd truck to the track. I like your idea of running FWD only, lets you use up the rear. Your still going to be a one wheel wonder up front unless you weld something. You might be able to just take the cover off and weld up the front axle. It should be a Dana44 upfront. I have to say I have a Dana44 on my tow rig but I am not sure how they hold up in the ring.
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Post by becklerb52 on Jun 30, 2016 12:59:19 GMT -5
Is their any differance on the frames of the early 60's 2x4 and 4x4?
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