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Post by racefan964 on Aug 22, 2011 15:24:48 GMT -5
I am looking for any volvo building tips. What are the weak points and strong points. I have run a couple corsicas in the past .But have a chance at a free 87 volvo with a 5peed.Would this be a good car or is it a waste of time? Thanks
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Post by C4 on Aug 22, 2011 19:36:17 GMT -5
Weakest points....struts and elctronic nightmares.
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Post by smashbob12 on Aug 22, 2011 20:37:24 GMT -5
what series, 200 series are 104'5 w/b, 700 & up series are 109' w/b ck the car,to see if it fits your rules.
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Post by racefan964 on Aug 22, 2011 20:37:38 GMT -5
Is there any way to"fix" the struts?
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Post by racefan964 on Aug 22, 2011 20:38:21 GMT -5
I think its a 200 series measured wheel base was around 104
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Post by C4 on Aug 22, 2011 20:46:32 GMT -5
reinforce the factory struts or make your own. Frames are pretty stout...front and back, so the are worth fixing the quirk, but my personal experience says the Volvo m/t is the first thing to get rid of. Put in something carbureted and American.
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Post by C4 on Aug 22, 2011 20:47:53 GMT -5
Another tip...if smashbob has something to say about Volvo....listen.
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Post by racefan964 on Aug 22, 2011 20:52:40 GMT -5
ok Thanks
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Post by 717wreckingball on Aug 23, 2011 6:37:36 GMT -5
they have weak motor and tranny mounts so tie the motor down with some extra chains if you can.
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Post by racefan964 on Aug 23, 2011 17:01:46 GMT -5
I did notice there was a lot of movement when it was running.Most likely will weld them solid.
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Post by JoJo Davis on Aug 23, 2011 18:24:23 GMT -5
I did notice there was a lot of movement when it was running.Most likely will weld them solid. Then chain them as well!!!!
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Post by smashbob12 on Aug 23, 2011 20:02:37 GMT -5
motor mounts-chain tight or replace with a piece of pipe/tubing.remove all belt drivin acc other than alt. carefullyy remove underhood wiring,ecm on r/f inside fender can be moved to inside car by unbolting harness clamps,carfell stripping inside wiring, alot of the grounds will be needed.car has 2 fuel pumps, low pressur in the tank and a high pressure under the car (110psi) a tank placed center of the rear seat area will gravity feed the h/p pump. return line needed for tank. high milage engines toll in a timing belt, easy to do.
more ltr
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Post by racefan964 on Aug 23, 2011 20:32:39 GMT -5
Thanks for all the info, I appreciate it
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Post by motionsick on Aug 23, 2011 21:57:13 GMT -5
add auxilary throttle cable and make sure you put the stop in the carpet under the pedal back after you strip the car! move your wiring! make sure you dont have a ZF code trans there junk!!!! not likely you do with a 240. fix the motor mounts!!!! you can jam a piece of wood between the oil pan and the subframe then chain it. the aluminum mounts break then starts ripping wires and hoses out! 240 will want to bend down in the back plan acordingly! as always pull your axles when welding the rear end! its easy 4 14mm bolts behind the rotor and a tap tap and there out, that way you dont weakin the end of the shafts in from the heat of welding and it will! look for cracked rear caliper mounts if they are just pull the rear brakes or as soon as your rear wheels bend a little they'll take the calipers off for you then lock up the rear tires... old raditaors are BAD BAD BAD make sure its a good one! wire the end caps together and run a solid plastic fan!!
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Post by smashbob12 on Aug 24, 2011 8:36:14 GMT -5
never had a rim bend to hit a caliper, my fronts have been on 4 cars and 12 runs, bent to hell but no interferance, never hhave pulled axles to weld in 5 cars with no problems. all my diff's have been 3.73 gears.on a show with 104 in max w/b swap your lower balljoints from rt to left. the kick fwd and swapping it will take it to 103.9.
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